General information and site resource
Our machine uses an automatic belt tensioner. Same for engines 1.4 and 1.6. Convenient, no need to worry about checking the tension and tightening the belt. But it also has disadvantages.
- Low resource for such a node. Not for all cars. Details below.
- Quite a high price. A good analog costs about the same as the original. Cheap takes are wasted money.
According to repair statistics, everyone's resource is different. Moreover, there is no connection with the year of manufacture or engine size. It has been noticed that if the lower right plastic protection is missing or broken, the service life is shorter, and on machines without air conditioning, other things being equal, the service life is always longer.
Plastic right guard extends the life of the tensioner
The main problems are in the range of 60,000 - 180,000, but it should be noted that there are cars with mileages of 200,000 - 300,000.
Interesting fact: on the new Solaris 2 with a 1.6L engine, the automatic tensioner was abandoned. The belt began to be tensioned the old fashioned way by a generator.
Solaris 2 with 1.6l combustion engine, belt tensioned by generator
How to understand that the drive belt tension roller needs to be replaced
If you notice one of the problems listed above in your car, you need to check how the tensioner of the engine drive system functions. At the same time, diagnostics is also necessary for other nodes. The functionality check is carried out in stages:
- External inspection of the drive belt and the mechanisms it drives It is necessary to start the engine to check whether there is any runout of the belt, tension roller or pulley, and then consider replacement.
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- Checking the elasticity of the generator belt
Stop the running engine. Then, at the longest gap between the pulleys, try to turn the belt to the right. If you can move it 90°, then the tension is normal. If the scroll angle is greater or less, the tension must be adjusted. - Dismantling and checking the functionality of the belt
At the same time, you need to inspect the pulleys and rollers, in particular, for the presence of play. The belt is easy to remove. Lightly unscrew the tensioner nut to pull it off the pulleys. But first you should remember this position, since later (after replacement) the belt must be put on the same place.Take your phone and just take a photo of your gear. Check the removed drive belt for cracks and delaminations. It should wear evenly. If you notice any defect, do not skimp on replacing the drive.
One-sided abrasion indicates that the roller mounting pin or bracket is bent and causing misalignment, which must be urgently corrected. Otherwise, your belt will quickly become unusable.
- Checking the play (free play) on the pulleys
Rotate the roller to make sure there is no obstruction in movement. Any binding indicates a worn bearing, which means you will need to replace the generator drive belt roller. Don't forget to inspect the contact surface of the plastic pad, which should be smooth. If you see grooves and irregularities, the tensioner should be replaced.After installing the new roller, the hum and squeak should disappear. Otherwise, the cause of the malfunction is in other places. And the drive of these elements is carried out due to the elasticity of the belt.
Why does the belt whistle, rustle, and squeak?
In most cases, the belt squealing is due to the tensioner, not the roller bearing or the belt itself. Dirt and dust from our roads gets inside the part and leads to wear.
The central hole has a groove
The tensioner housing halves move apart
Pay attention to the mark left by the belt. You can see from the development on the video that the right edge is darker than the central part. The planes of operation of the roller and belt do not coincide. This occurs due to wear on the tensioner itself. This is how a whistle and squeak appears from the belt. It can either appear or disappear. But over time it will become permanent.
Is it dangerous? If you drive for a long time with a whistle, the following will happen: the belt begins to move more and more along the roller, part of it simply slides off the edge. Eventually it will fly off or be torn. It happens this way and that. IF YOUR BELT HAS FELL OFF, YOU CANNOT CONTINUE DRIVING! The pump is driven by a belt; without it, the engine will quickly overheat.
We tell you more about wear and tear in our video.
Alternator belt roller for Renault Logan
The tensioner roller is indicated by a line in the figure.
- On Renault Logan cars, the tension roller of the alternator belt is installed on cars that are equipped with power steering and air conditioning, or one power steering.
- On models that do not have such options, the alternator belt is tensioned using a bolt on a special strip.
Let's consider the options for replacing the roller separately in each case.
Replacing the tension roller of the alternator of a Renault Logan I generation car, equipped with power steering and air conditioning
The roller is marked with the number 2
The tension roller is shown in the diagram as number 2 .
This is what the old video looks like
- To replace it, you need to remove the right wheel and the protective shield of the engine compartment.
- Next, using a key set to “13,” we turn the roller mounting bolt clockwise (bypassing the force of the tension spring), at the same time, using a metal rod with a diameter of 5–6 mm, we fix the roller bracket by inserting it into a special hole. This way you can loosen the drive belt itself for further removal of the roller.
- In order to unscrew the roller from the engine housing, it is necessary to unscrew the two bolts securing the housing of this tension device, which is assembled with the roller itself.
The process of filming the video in the photo
Installation should be done in the same way in the reverse order, and special attention should be paid to the high-quality fixation of the bracket itself.
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Replacing the tension roller of the alternator of a Renault Logan I generation car, equipped with power steering and without air conditioning
The tensioner pulley is numbered 2 in the diagram.
In order to remove or adjust the generator belt through the adjusting roller ( number 2 ), it is necessary to loosen the bolts securing the roller 4 and rotate the adjustment bolt 3 clockwise. If the roller itself needs to be replaced, then dismantling is carried out by removing the bolts securing the roller from the engine housing.
Filmed video
After completing all operations, the assembly of the structure occurs in the reverse order.
After replacing such “consumables”, you need to start the engine and make sure there is no extraneous noise at idle or whistling from under the alternator belt. If nothing of the kind is installed, then the replacement of the tension roller can be considered complete.
When carrying out repair work related to belts, pay attention to the condition of the timing belt, replace it if necessary (read more about replacing the timing belt on a Renault Logan).
Replacing the belt tensioner
The replacement is simple. You can change it from above, through the engine compartment. So they change it to a hundred. But if you decide to do everything yourself, without experience it is better to do it from below the car. First you need to remove the right plastic protection.
4 bolts for 10, if there is metal protection you will have to remove it too
Now you will need a 14mm wrench to move the roller away and loosen the belt tension so that you can remove it.
A long key of 14 is much more convenient
We pull the key up, the roller is pressed from the belt to the engine shield
When the tension weakens, remove the belt from the generator pulley
Now you can unscrew the tensioner itself
Assembly is carried out in reverse order.
Belt installation diagram for cars with air conditioning
Tensioner device
The tensioner design includes the following elements:
- belt;
- video clip;
- bracket;
- connecting bolts and nuts.
The roller is a bearing with a seating sleeve inside and a plastic coating on the outside. The belt moves along the roller. The roller is mounted on a bracket, which, in turn, is attached to the car engine using bolts and nuts.
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There are two modifications of the tensioner:
- Eccentric. Includes bearing, plastic cover and bushing. The bushing has a through hole that is offset from the center. This hole is used to secure the roller to the car engine. To obtain the required belt tension, the eccentric is rotated and then the result is secured with a bolt.
- Bracket. In this modification, the roller is fixedly mounted on a bracket. The structure is attached to the power plant using bolts. To adjust the belt tension, the bracket is moved relative to the engine. This modification is more complicated than the eccentric one, but this does not make it any less reliable.
Some car factories install rollers with a spring bracket in their cars. In this design, the spring independently regulates the belt tension, that is, the unit is self-regulating.
Whatever device the belt tensioner has, the list of its main elements remains unchanged.
ATTENTION: The weak point of any tensioner is the bearing, which is constantly under load and wears out quickly. It is recommended to change this element every time the belt is replaced.
Tensioner roller
When the bearing in the roller wears out, you will not hear a whistling noise. Severe wear reveals itself as increased noise when the motor is running.
Exactly the same noise can be made by the bearing of the generator, power steering and idler roller. The air conditioner pump and compressor sound a little different.
You can try to determine the source of the noise yourself. To do this, just remove the belt. How to do this is described above. When the belt is removed, all pulleys are accessible. Now you can twist and swing them. A serviceable bearing spins quietly, a worn one makes rustling and noise. There should also not be much play.
If the bearing on the roller is worn out, then unscrew it clockwise, the thread is reversed!
Next you have a choice: change the entire roller, or simply replace the bearing. If the pulley itself is not worn out, only the bearing can be replaced. Articles of verified manufacturers: 6203ZZCM (NSK), 62032RSH (SKF), 62032RS, 6203ZZC3 (KOYO), 6203LLU, 6203ZZC35K (NTN/SNR).
Bearing dimensions: outer diameter 40mm, inner 17mm, width 12mm
According to the video, the situation is as follows. It would seem that take the original and close the question. But this is the biggest risk because there are a lot of counterfeits. The packaging and appearance of the part today do not differ from the original. Below are the brands of rollers tested at service stations. Low quality for SAT, AMD, ASVA, AMIWA, DAYCO, FEBEST, JUST DRIVE, NSP, PARTS MALL, PATRON, STELLOX, UNITED MOTORS. Good quality GATES, GMB, NTN/SNR, SKF.
Generator drive device
The main condition for the correct functioning of the generator is the correct transmission of rotation from the power plant. To generate the required amount of electricity, the element must rotate at high speed.
The alternator drive belt must be tensioned for proper transmission. If the belt sag, it will begin to slip on the pulleys. If the belt is overtightened, there is a risk of premature wear of the bearings, working surfaces of the pulley and belt.
To avoid these troubles, belt tension adjustment was included in the design.
In modern cars the number of attachments is large. This equipment is also driven by the crankshaft pulley, including the power steering pump and air conditioning compressor.
The drive of these two units and the generator is carried out using a single belt. Because of this, it is impossible to adjust the tension of the drive element using a generator. Such cars have a complex belt position configuration. Belt-driven equipment is located at different levels.
How to change the alternator belt tensioner pulley? To do this, you need to understand its structure. The generator belt tensioner roller is a bearing with a plastic lining on its outer race. The pad has a working surface along which the belt moves. There is a landing sleeve inside the roller. There are two types of rollers:
- Eccentric . The design of this video is quite simple. It contains only a bearing, a plastic lining and a bushing. A through hole passes through the bushing, offset away from the center of the roller. The roller is put on a pin through the hole, which is installed on the engine. To tighten, the roller must be rotated relative to the bolt.
- Roller with bracket . In this design, the roller is fixedly mounted on a bracket. The structure is attached to the power plant using bolts. Moving the bracket relative to the engine adjusts the tension. Manufacturers sometimes use rollers with a spring bracket. The spring allows you to independently adjust the tension.
The bearing is the main weak point of the roller. This part is forced to constantly experience loads. Wear of a part sometimes even ends in its complete breakdown.
It is recommended to change the bearing every time the belt is replaced.
Alternative to tensioner
Another option is to switch to manual belt tensioning. To do this, you need a generator bracket and a mechanical tensioner itself. Kit article number 37460-2B006. Using this number you can order it in any online spare parts store. Approximate price from 1200 rub. You will also need a different size belt 6pk2075.
Mechanical tensioner
This is what it looks like
Keep in mind that the belt must be of high quality, as this option is demanding in terms of tension. Cheap belts stretch out very quickly. At our service station we use GATES.
