How to change jet thrust on a VAZ 2107

Replacing jet rods on a VAZ-2104-2107

The very first cars equipped with suspension - springs - behaved quite dangerously under heavy loads.
The fact is that forces act on the car in different directions, and a conventional spring at first was highly susceptible to excessive “looseness”. That is, the car under heavy loads (driving at high speed, on bumpy roads, sharply entering a turn) began to behave unstably - it swayed, began to “spring”, and could even tip over. Therefore, it was necessary to solve this problem as quickly as possible.
The result of this was the development of reaction rods - a special part of the suspension design that helped stabilize the body, and therefore increase driver safety.

When to change jet rods on a VAZ 2107?

As we mentioned, only high-quality metal is used in the manufacture of rods (usually steel). The latter is able to withstand enormous loads over many years of operation.

The “weak link” of the part is the lugs, which are not a continuation of the rods, but are only welded to them. It is no secret that welding has its own service life. Over time, the joints may become damaged or even collapse.

To eliminate problems in movement and prevent breakage of rods, it is necessary to inspect the condition of the part from time to time.

If signs of destruction, cracks, deformation and other malfunctions appear, the VAZ 2107 jet rods must be replaced.

In this case, pay special attention to silent blocks - they often cannot withstand loads and break. As a result, the fixation of the rods deteriorates, they move relative to the base and cease to perform their functions.

At the same time, you should not wait until the rubber bands fail. If knocking noises occur during movement, inspection, or detection of cracks on the rods, replace them immediately. To do this, you don’t need to go to a service station - you can do everything yourself, as it’s not at all difficult.

Malfunctions

In fact, the rod itself is not subject to wear. The main malfunctions concern the places where it is connected to the eye. Usually the rod breaks in the area of the welds and bushings. This happens for several reasons:

Firstly, this section is the weakest in the structure and does not withstand the load well. Since the suspension is constantly subject to shock and vibration, over time the bushings wear out and can cause abnormal noise.
Secondly, the thrust is located under the bottom. It's no secret that this place is constantly exposed to salts, dirt and other reagents. As a result, corrosion appears on the surface of the rod and in the places where it is attached. Over time, it corrodes the metal so much that its strength is not enough to dampen vibrations and the rod simply breaks.

To prevent such problems from taking the owner by surprise, it is necessary to periodically monitor the condition of this element. If there are cracks and other deformations, it is necessary to replace the jet rods on the VAZ-2107.

Auto repair school – DIY car repair

Aug 2, 2021 VAZ 2101, VAZ 2102, VAZ 2105, VAZ 2106, VAZ 2107, Zhiguli, Classic by admin

If on your kopeck, six or seven , when starting from a stop or driving on an uneven road, a knocking sound appeared in the area of the rear axle and along with it the rear axle of the car lost stability, then it’s time to check the condition and, if necessary, replace the bushings of the rear rods (reactive rods ) . Of course, you can take an easier route. And replace jet thrust . But this path, although easy, is not cheap. You can compare the price of a repair kit (metal and rubber bushings) for reaction rods and the price for a complete set of reaction rods. I think you will notice the difference. And why pay more if it's not necessary? If the reaction rods are normal (not broken, not bent, the lugs are not broken), then you can simply replace the rubber bushings. Yes, and if you figure it out, it won’t be difficult for you to do this. All that is required from you is the desire to do the work yourself and prepare the tools and accessories that are necessary for the work.

First of all, about spare parts. You can immediately buy a set of rubber and metal bushings . A standard set of rubber bushings for cars VAZ-2101, VAZ-21011, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2103, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107 consists of 10 pieces, four large and six small. But I can advise you to buy a set of rubber bushings for the VAZ-2121 (Niva) , in this set all the bushings are equally large. Pressing them in is not much more difficult, but they can withstand the load better than standard ones. We also make sure to buy a set (10 pieces) of metal bushings (the old ones are often very worn out) - four large and six small. What do the rubber and metal bushings look like (pay attention to the color of the metal bushings, that’s the color we buy) look at photos No. 2. Of course, it’s better to buy new fasteners (bolts and nuts) too (especially if no one has worked on jet rods for a long time ), but here at your discretion or at the discretion of your wallet. Plus, you should buy a set of rubber bushings for the rear shock absorbers .

As for the tool... Here you will need to have, at a minimum: two 19mm spanners, a hammer, a metal rod (useful for knocking out bolts when removing rods). But you will have to think about the devices for pressing out and pressing in the bushings in advance (since work without them will be much more complicated). You can either make them yourself (take a bolt of the appropriate diameter, screw on the nut and grind it to the size of the outer diameter of the metal sleeve) or buy (or order a turner) a ready-made tool (see photo No. 3 for what it looks like). Also, having a vice will make the work much easier.

Further point by point (for example, we are considering the removal and repair of a short jet rod . To remove a long rod , you will also have to unscrew the lower fastener of the rear shock absorber):

1. Unscrew the nuts and remove (or knock out) the mounting bolts (photo No. 1). Let's relieve the traction.

2. If at one end of the rod the metal bushing can fall out on its own (photo No. 4), then at the other end the bushing will have to be knocked out using our pre-prepared device. (Photo No. 5). And, for example, we use a screwdriver to pry out the rubber bushing (photo No. 6).

3. Use a knife to clean the inside of the traction eye (photo No. 7).

4. Using a vice, press the rubber bushing into the rod , having first lubricated it and the rod eye with soapy water (photo No. 8). Precisely with a soap solution and in no case using oil, since the bushings are NOT made from oil-gasoline resistant rubber. And by lubricating them with oil, you will shorten their service life.

5. After this, using a “special tool” we press in the metal sleeve , also lubricating it with soapy water, see photos No. 9 and No. 10. In the absence of a “special tool”, a metal bushing, just like a rubber bushing , can be pressed into a vice.

That's all! We carry out the same procedure with other rear links . When installing jet rods on a car , it is better to lubricate the mounting bolts, for example, with nigrol. Otherwise, the next repair of jet rods will turn into an exam in the skill of using an angle grinder!))

UPD 01/05/2016

Please love and favor - SEVI-Extreme torque rod bushings for VAZ-2101, VAZ-2102, VAZ-2104, VAZ-2105, VAZ-2106, VAZ-2107 cars manufactured by SEVI . I won’t be afraid to speak loudly and say that these bushings are the best of all possible options for jet rod bushings for the Classic . I can say this with confidence, because as soon as these bushings appeared on the car market, I bought them and immediately installed them on my own dime. You can call this a pioneer experiment. In the photos below you can see in what packaging they were sold at first (initially the bushings were called SEVI-Spike ) and in what box these bushings can be found today. Plus, a photo of the kit. And to say that I was surprised by the result of the experiment would not be correct. That's right - I was shocked! Yes, I had to tinker with pressing the bushings, but the result was simply amazing. The comfort that appeared in the rear axle of the car is difficult to describe in words. The rear of the car has become more solid and stable. The amount of noise transmitted from the car suspension to the body has been significantly reduced. Plus, you can add to this the high wear resistance of these bushings - for example, on my car they worked reliably for almost 30,000 km . And none of the bushings failed. I can’t say exactly how long they lasted, since the car was sold.

After the tests, in my own car, it was the clients’ turn. Not everyone, however, agreed to install rubber-metal bushings for SEVI-Extreme jet rods. Since the price of a set of these bushings upset even the most fanatical car enthusiast, who doted on his iron friend and never spared money on its maintenance and repair. To make it clearer: the price of a set of these super bushings was (and is) equal to the price of a complete set of Chinese-made reaction rods. Or -60% of the cost of factory jet rods (rods) produced in Balakovo . Something to think about...

But, despite the price issue, I have already managed to install these bushings on about a dozen cars. All car owners are happy and do not regret the money they spent.

That's why I recommend it to you! nothing complicated about installing SEVI-Extreme jet rod bushings . Everything is the same as when working with standard bushings. But, there are some small features: the tie rod eyes of your car must be in good condition - not broken or destroyed by rust. Before pressing in the bushings, the eyes of the rods (rods) should be thoroughly cleaned. And only after that you can begin the installation. A bench vise is a must! We treat the eyelet and bushing with a soapy solution. And slowly we begin to press it in.

This is how it was:

Here it is:

There is nothing complicated, as I said. The main thing is that the eyes are cleaned and do not fall apart from rust in your hands. And the result should please you. I would be glad if you share your impressions or your opinion about SEVI-Extreme bushings in the comments .

When using an article or photographs, an active direct hyperlink to the website www.avtorem.info is required!

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Installation of traction is done as follows:

First, the rod is mounted in the front bracket. Before inserting the bolt into the desired hole, it is treated with nigrol;
The reaction rod is placed in the rear bracket. Don't be surprised if the holes at the mounting location don't line up.

If the jet rod was broken, then the bridge would move all the time under load. This led to the shift.

To adjust the holes, you need to use a mounting spatula, resting it on the bracket, and unscrew the bridge until the fasteners align. When they match, you need to insert the bolt and secure it with a nut.

With the help of such manipulations, you will be able to replace the jet rods with your own hands and save money on visiting a service station.

Installation

If a grinder was used, it is important to remove all remnants of fasteners with a mounting spatula. How do you then replace the VAZ-2107 jet rods? After this, the new element is installed in the previous mounting locations. But installation may be difficult. Since the old rod could no longer cope with its task, the bridge could “move” a few degrees to the side.

To ensure that the new link is properly secured, rest the mounting blade against the bracket and unscrew the bridge until the holes line up. Next, tighten all the bolts and nuts. The same procedure is performed on the second side. For tightening, use the same wrench and a 19mm hex head.

We install a new one

We install the reaction rod. We first mount it on the bracket in front. We treat the bolt with transmission oil. To align the hole in the mechanism, we rest the blade against the bracket, unscrewing the bridge. The openings will be level, fix the knot. It happens that when installing a rod, a bent part or a defect in the eye are noted. You will have to install “fresh” bushings.

Using a tool, we knock out the element from the eye, and use a screwdriver to pry out the rubber part. We clean the eyelet and lubricate the joint with soapy water. Using special tools and a vice, we place the metal sleeve. If the silent block wears out significantly, you will lose control of the car at speed.

Jet thrust VAZ 2107 - replacement, price

The first cars equipped with springs were quite unstable, they swayed on potholes and tended to roll over in turns; to combat this, jet thrusts were invented. Jet thrust is a component of a vehicle's suspension. It helps limit the movement of the steering knuckle and rear axle.

Content:

Defect

Let's try to change the thrust ourselves. Collapsible hinges with a replaceable bushing are placed on the base of the structure using welding. In order for the part to serve for a long time and withstand loads, it is made from high-quality steel. There is also an additional component here - silent block.

The cause of failure of the reactive component is the formation of a crack at the welding site. Also, the bushings on the silent block wear out. Then they become deformed and break. The base of the rod can corrode, you need to keep an eye on this. Faulty traction can be noted by hearing the knocking of the suspension while driving.

Relieving traction

To carry out repairs, we place the car on an overpass. You will need keys, a brush, and WD 40. For dismantling operations, we start from the free side. The joint area is cleaned, lubricated with WD 40 liquid and then time is given to stand and saturate the joint.

Next we unscrew the nut. Sometimes you have to repeat the manipulation and use a long key. You can move the elements by hitting them with a hammer. Then we move to the opposite side. When we dismantle the longitudinal rods, we reach the rod bolts.

Unscrew the bottom of the shock absorber and remove the bushing. It is not always possible to tighten the bolt, because access may be blocked by other suspension parts. Sometimes you have to cut off the structure at the silent block position.

We install a new one

Price for traction and labor

Jet thrusts cost from 1,600 to 5,000 rubles per set, depending on the manufacturer. They are made from elastic steel, there is hardly any catch here, but an external inspection is required upon purchase to ensure there are no casting defects, chips or cracks. If you can’t do the replacement yourself or you don’t have the conditions, you can go to any service station, they do this kind of work; replacing one rod costs 200 rubles, replacing a set costs 800 rubles.

But it doesn’t matter whether you change it yourself or not, the main thing is to pay attention to this important unit, because it is your safety. Happy travels!

Replacing jet rods on a VAZ 2107

Before starting work, we will decide on the necessary consumables and tools. Here's what we need:

a set of new jet rods for the VAZ 2107;
rust remover WD-40;
mounting blades;
set of open-end wrenches;
hammer.

Sequence of work

First of all, two important points should be mentioned. Firstly, the rods should only be changed in an inspection pit or on an overpass. Secondly, all five rods from the VAZ 2107 are removed in exactly the same way. That is why the procedure for dismantling only one central rod will be described below. To remove the remaining four rods, you just need to repeat the steps listed below.

Replacement of torque rod bushings for VAZ 2107.

Good afternoon, dear visitors of the site zerga.ru. In this article I will tell you and show you how to replace the VAZ 2107 torque rod bushings yourself. The replacement principle is the same for all Classic VAZ models.

In the previous article, “Replacing the torque rods of VAZ cars,” I showed how the rods are completely changed, but if only the rubber bushing (silent block) is worn out, then it makes sense to replace only that.

First, we need to carry out diagnostics and find out whether the bushings on all reaction rods need to be changed. How to correctly diagnose the front and rear suspension (chassis), I recommend that you read the special article (I will post a link later).

To perform this operation, we need an inspection hole. It's good that I have it. Previously, when she wasn’t there, I kept running to the neighbors to let me dig into my car, but now everything is much simpler.

Having rolled the car into the inspection pit, I determined that the rubber bushings on the transverse link had worn out. Now let's start working.

The first thing to do is remove the transverse torque rod. I took a metal brush and thoroughly cleaned all the threads on the bolts from dirt and treated them with WD-40.

Now that we have everything ready, I unscrewed both nuts without much difficulty.

Our next challenge was to pull out the bolts. Why the test? Because if the rubber band becomes loose, then moisture gets between the bolt and the metal sleeve and corrosion begins. All this leads to the fact that, under the influence of corrosion, the bolt sticks to the bushing and sometimes it is simply impossible to remove it.

In my case, I was very lucky and the bolts went in very easily. The left bolt came out perfectly, but the right one rested on the lower spring cup.

The photo above shows where the bolt rested. To remove the bolt, you need to load some scrap metal into the trunk or ask a friend to press down a little on the back of the car. This way, the bracket will go down a little and the bolt can be pulled out freely.

Now we just extract the traction, there should be no difficulties here. If the jet thrust is slow, you can help it with a pry bar.

Next, we proceed to removing the old rubber bushing.

Replacement of rubber bushings of torque rods.

To remove the rubber bushing, we need to knock out the metal inner race (bushing). After rummaging through my toolbox, I found a suitable attachment. I don't know what it is, but it fits just right. In my opinion, this is a tool for punching holes in the wall, like an ancient hammer drill :).

Next I used the vice as a stand. After a few good hits with a hammer, the bushing came out.

A few more blows and the bushing flew out along with the adapter. Here, be careful not to hit your fingers with a hammer when the bushing comes out sharply.

After all the efforts, this is the picture we get.

In the photo above you can see how the rubber bushings are cracked and this is not too much wear. With more wear, the inner metal clip falls out on its own and so does the rubber band.

The next step is to squeeze out the old gum. We will need a rod for extrusion and a support for the jet thrust.

I was too lazy to make a special puller, so after rummaging around in the garage I found a suitable tool.

Instead of a thrust bushing, I used a holder for large dies (which are used to cut threads), and for extrusion, I used an ordinary metal round timber with a diameter of 25 millimeters.

The photo above shows how I installed this structure. With a little force, the bushing will easily squeeze out.

In the photo above you can see how the bushing began to come out.

With a little more effort, she jumped out.

Preparation for installation of torque rod bushings.

Before installing a new bushing, be sure to clean out all dirt and rust inside the metal torque cage. If this is not done, then when pressing in the new bushing may get wrapped and damaged, which is not what we want. And the installation of the bushing itself will be problematic.

About modernization of jet thrusts

Sometimes drivers decide to independently increase the reliability of the VAZ 2107 suspension and extend its service life. To this end, they are modernizing jet thrust. Typically, modernization of rods means two operations. Here they are:

installation of dual jet rods;
installation of reinforced jet thrusts.

Now a little more about each of the above operations.

Twin rods

Most often, drivers install dual rods on the VAZ 2107. The reason is obvious: for this procedure you don't have to do anything with the pulls. You simply purchase not one, but two sets of rods that are installed in a regular place near the rear axle of the “seven”. Plus, you purchase not ordinary, but elongated mounting bolts, on which this entire structure rests.

Installing double rods on the VAZ 2107 increases the overall reliability of the suspension

The obvious advantage of such modernization is the increase in the reliability of the suspension: even if one of the tie rods breaks while driving, the car is unlikely to lose control and the driver will always have a chance to notice the problem in time and stop (a break in the tie rod is almost always accompanied by a strong knock on the bottom of the car, which cannot be heard this is simply impossible). This design also has a drawback: the suspension becomes stiffer. If earlier it “eaten up” small unevenness in the road without any problems, now the driver will feel even small pebbles and holes while driving.

Reinforced traction

If the car is used in extreme conditions and drives mainly on dirt roads or on roads with very poor asphalt, the car owner can install enhanced torque rods on it. As a rule, drivers make such rods themselves. But recently, large manufacturers have begun to offer reinforced rods of their own production. For example, you can find Trek-Sport rods on sale, which are distinguished by the large size of silent blocks and an adjustable transverse rod. A pair of nuts on the crossbar allows you to slightly change its length. Which in turn affects the car’s handling and the overall stiffness of its suspension.

The reinforced rods have nuts that allow you to change the length of the rod and adjust the stiffness of the suspension

Of course, the driver will have to pay for increased reliability: the cost of a set of Track-Sport rods starts from 2,600 rubles.

Tie rod malfunctions

The jet thrust of the VAZ 2107, like any other car, takes on loads aimed at shifting or rocking the rear axle. If these parts fail, the car’s behavior on the road changes: handling deteriorates, braking distance increases, and even there is a threat of a sudden change in trajectory or the car overturning. What factors cause breakage or wear of steering rods?

Static loads. It is impossible to avoid this factor, but you can reduce it without overloading the car.
Torsional loads. They most often occur when hitting an obstacle. You can reduce them by reducing speed in front of an obstacle.
Chemical effects of water and chemicals sprinkled on roads in winter.

Therefore, it is important to regularly check the condition of the rods and promptly detect deformation, chips and cracks. The appearance of such signs indicates the need to replace the part.

The rear links of the VAZ 2107 have weak points - welding seams that attach the eyes to the link and silent blocks. The latter are made of rubber, which wears out much faster than metal rod parts. Wear of silent blocks contributes to the appearance of backlashes that prevent the rods from performing their stabilizing function. As for the breakdown of a welded joint, it can lead to the most disastrous results, even an accident.

A failure of the torque rods manifests itself in a characteristic knocking sound in the rear suspension while driving. Such a knock indicates the need to immediately check the condition of the rear suspension.

To eliminate defects in steering rods, as well as to diagnose the suspension, you can contact a service station. But you should know that repairing and replacing these parts is a fairly simple operation that you can do yourself, even without much experience in auto repair work.

About the choice of jet thrusts

Currently, there are not many large manufacturers left that produce jet thrust for the VAZ 2107 and other classics. Their products differ in both price and reliability. Let's look at the most popular products.

Traction "Track"

The product is very popular among owners of the “Seven”. These rods are distinguished by their high reliability and high price, which starts from 2100 rubles per set.

Trek thrusters are distinguished by high reliability and high price

The main difference between Trek is the heads for the bushings. Firstly, they are large, and secondly, they are attached to the rods by welding. The silent blocks on Tracks are also made of especially dense rubber, which significantly extends their service life.

Rods "Cedar"

The overwhelming majority of “Sevens” that had previously rolled off the assembly line had jet thrusters installed specifically from “Kedr”, since this company has always been and remains the official supplier of AvtoVAZ.

Kedr rods have an affordable price and mediocre quality

The quality of Kedr is somewhat inferior to Trek. This is especially true for bushings and silent blocks. All this wears out quite quickly, and therefore they will have to be changed more often. But there is also a good side - a reasonable price. A set of “Cedar” rods can be purchased for 1,700 rubles.

Belmag rods

Despite the simplicity and reliability of Belmag rods, they have one significant drawback: they are not so easy to find on sale. Every year they are found less and less often on the shelves of auto parts stores. But if the car owner still manages to find them, then he can be congratulated, since he got a reliable product at a reasonable price. The cost of Belmag rods starts from 1800 rubles per set.

Today it is not so easy to find Belmag rods on sale

This, in essence, is the entire list of large manufacturers of good rods for the VAZ 2107. Of course, now there are a lot of smaller companies on the market that are quite aggressively promoting their products. But none of these companies gained much popularity among the owners of classics, and therefore it is inappropriate to mention them here.

So what should a driver choose from all of the above?

The answer is simple: the only criterion for choosing jet rods is the thickness of the car owner’s wallet. If a person is not short on funds, the best option would be to purchase Trek rods. Yes, they are expensive, but installing them will allow you to forget about problems with the suspension for a long time. If you don’t have enough money, it makes sense to look for products on the shelves. Well, if this idea is not crowned with success, there remains a third option - “Cedar” rods, which are sold everywhere.

Here we should say a few words about fakes. Knowing that car owners most often choose products from the three above-mentioned companies, unscrupulous manufacturers are now literally flooding the shelves with counterfeits. Moreover, in some cases, the fakes are made so skillfully that only a specialist can identify them. In such a situation, an ordinary driver can only focus on the price and remember: good things are expensive. And if there is a set of Trek rods on the counter for only a thousand rubles, then this is a serious reason to think about it. And don't rush into buying.