How to make a fire from an exhaust pipe: practical tips

Ideally, for lumbago to appear, two conditions must coincide:

Maximum direct-flow exhaust system. Nothing should interfere with the passage of gases or absorb sound and temperature. Forward flow provides volume, sound clarity, fiery flashes
Highly boosted motor. A high number of revolutions gives more power, due to this there are more lumbagoes and the sound becomes richer. The main role here is played by the speed, and not the engine size.

You can read about prices below

Manufacturing exhaust systems for every taste with sound correction!

Installing the right resonators will help create a lumpy exhaust

Manufacturing of exhaust system with lumbago - come to us!

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Modern cinema offers viewers many films with very impressive and spectacular scenes of car racing. All this has led to the unprecedented popularity of certain types of tuning, which make the car look like cool cars from Hollywood films. The fire from the exhaust pipe is one of the many spectacular effects that add to the car's resemblance to racing models.

Today you can often hear questions from young motorists about how to make a fire from a muffler, and how feasible it is with your own hands. Each of them imagines the delight and amazement of those around them when a cool car rushes past them at great speed, accompanied by flames from the exhaust pipe.

If you figure it out, it’s not difficult to get a flame from the muffler - any driver can do it on his own. However, before we make fire out of a muffler, let's talk a little about the theory and consider the reasons for its appearance.

Flame emitted from the muffler

Fire from the exhaust pipe happens in two cases: either in case of some malfunctions that should be fixed immediately, or to demonstrate your car. The flame rushing out, or, in other words, the “tongue of the dragon” is a spectacle that guarantees everyone's attention, causing a lot of emotions. It gives the impression of being powerful, sophisticated and cool like a racing car. This effect does not indicate the power of the engine at all, but it leaves vivid emotions and is undoubtedly suitable for any kind of show or simply for those who like to stand out. Racing cars have a completely short and straight exhaust system, which is not able to completely extinguish the burning gases, which contributes to the appearance of flames. In ordinary cars, the design of the exhaust system is somewhat different, and besides being spectacular and entertaining, the “dragon tongue” does not bring any benefit; on the contrary, the frequent use of a bursting flame harms the car.

Precautionary measures

It is recommended to proceed with extreme caution when installing the system. There is a high risk of compromising the integrity of the exhaust system. It is necessary to carefully control the amount of freely flowing gasoline to avoid the occurrence of an explosive situation. Also, to ensure the safety of all engine parts and the exhaust system, it is necessary to comply with the time limits: the flame should not go out for more than three seconds.

Displaying special effects with fire is permissible only in a free and open area, away from people and various objects that could ignite. The car must be immobilized when performing such a stunt. The appearance of “dragon tongue” on public roads is strictly unacceptable.

The flame can be about half a meter, this can damage the paintwork of the car. The simpler the flame production system is, the more damage is done to the car. Therefore, it is better to give preference to the electronic version. When performing “flames”, you should not get carried away and perform the trick often in order to avoid car damage. Always follow safety precautions, then the fire show will bring only positive emotions.

The simplest scheme to achieve the “dragon tongue” effect

Making fire from a muffler is quite simple. When the car is working properly, the exhaust gases cool down as they pass through the exhaust pipes, which means there is nowhere for the fire to appear, so a special spark plug is installed at the end of the exhaust pipe, which ignites a small portion of the gasoline that is not burned in the cylinders.

In order for the spark plug to work and create a spark, it must be connected to a simple pulse generator. Using a switch (button) located in the car's interior, the spark plugs are turned off so that not all the fuel in the cylinders burns and some of it ends up in the exhaust pipe. The pulse generator starts, supplying a spark to the additionally installed spark plug. The effect is ready, flames burst out from the exhaust pipe.

To avoid an explosion or failure of the exhaust system, when using manual gasoline supply, the main thing is not to overdo it so that too much of it gets there.

Some useful theory

After fuel enters the combustion chamber, the ignition process occurs, the piston performs a power stroke, after which the combustion products go into the exhaust manifold, bypass the resonator and are thrown out through the exhaust pipe. For a flame to appear from the muffler, a small portion of the fuel must be unprocessed and untouched.

Together with the products of fuel combustion, it reaches the outlet of the exhaust pipe, where all that remains is to take care of the ignition process. The result is a bright and spectacular fire from the exhaust pipe.

How to put such a scheme into action?

To install an additional spark plug in the muffler (in the last pipe of the exhaust system, after the resonator):

a hole is made to secure the spark plug bushing using cold welding;
the spark plug is screwed in;
put on the spark plug cap.

Nearby there is a mount for the ignition coil (high-voltage transformer). The coil must be independent, turned on with a separate button. All elements are connected with a special wire.

Shoots the silencer

Shots in the muffler can occur on cars with both a carburetor and an injection engine. And it turns out, interesting as it may be, the muffler has nothing to do with this. It produces only sound, and the reasons for the sounds that appear must be sought in other parts of the car. Very often the cause of slamming into the muffler is a faulty ignition mechanism, fuel supply or gas distribution mechanism. Now we will understand how to get rid of the problems of shooting into the exhaust pipe, and what to look for first when there are “explosions”.

Reasons for the appearance of pops

Air filter clogged
Carburetor not adjusted
The ignition mechanism is faulty
Incorrect thermal gap
Timing belt faulty
Problems with cars with injector
Other reasons
Popping sound from a car with HBO

Causes of lumbago in the muffler

The main reason that the engine began to shoot into the muffler was unspent fuel that got into the exhaust gas mechanism and began to ignite there. No matter how much fuel leaks out, the louder the pop is heard, and sometimes you can hear a whole series of shots. Fuel enters the release mechanism for various reasons. This happens due to a faulty carburetor, timing ignition mechanism, various sensors (on the car injector) and so on.

The circumstances of shooting into an exhaust pipe vary. For example, if you accelerate the engine too much at idle speed or when releasing the gas. Usually, when there is a bang, a huge volume of smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe. This breakdown also occurs with additional symptoms - engine power is lost, idle speed is floating, and gasoline consumption increases. Let's begin to look step by step at the reasons why the muffler starts shooting, and also at ways to fix the damage.

Clogged air filter

One reason for popping sounds in the muffler is an incorrect fuel mixture. To make it you need gasoline and a little air mass. It goes into the engine through a mechanism that has an air filter at the inlet. When it is clogged, it will not allow the required volume of air mass to pass through it, so we will starve the engine of oxygen. Therefore, not all of the gasoline will burn out, but a little of it will flow into the manifold and then go into the exhaust gas removal mechanism. There the fuel mixture will heat up and explode. Because of this, an unusual pop is heard in the muffler.

To eliminate the cause of this, little is needed. You need to check the condition of the air filter and, if necessary, change it. This is particularly important if the filter was changed a long time ago, but according to the recommendations it should already be done. This is the most common reason for firing a suppressor. Let's move on.

Carburetor not adjusted

Often the reason that the engine will shoot can be an incorrectly designed carburetor. Its main property is to create a mixture of fuel and air that goes into the engine. If it is made in such a way that the mixture is oversaturated with gasoline, the same thing happens as described above. In this case, you need to check and adjust the “carb”.

First, check the volume of fuel in the chamber where the float is located. All carburetors must be adjusted individually and with their own volume. Although, once the lid is removed, the float must be at the level of the lid. If it’s different, then you need to adjust the volume. And it is also imperative to check whether the float is intact. If it is damaged, fuel gets in there, which leads to an incorrect level indication.

The reason that the “carb” began to shoot into the muffler is also the jets. If they are incorrectly configured or become clogged over time. If the air jet does not provide the required volume of air, then the gasoline mixture will be oversaturated with the result described above. This often happens when the engine goes from idle to increased speed, or if the speed increases sharply (the car accelerates). You need to check the jets and, if necessary, clean them.

Air-fuel relationships	Characteristic	Comments
6/1 — 7/1	A very rich mixture. Problems with the ignition system	Enriched mixture. Burns for a long time, low degrees.
7/1 — 12/1	The mixture is too rich.
12/1 — 13/1	Rich mixture. Great power.
13/1 — 14,7/1	The mixture is slightly enriched.	Good mix.
14,7/1	Chemically ideal mixture
14,7/1 — 16/1	The mixture is slightly lean.
16/1 — 18/1	Stingy mixture. Big savings.	Lean mixture. Burns quickly, high degrees.
18/1 — 20/1	Very lean mixture.
20/1 — 22/1	Too lean mixture. Ignition failure.

The ignition mechanism is faulty. Another reason for incomplete combustion of fuel and the audibility of popping sounds from the exhaust pipe will be an incorrectly set ignition. Specifically, if it becomes late, then there will be popping in the muffler at idle and at high speeds. This is easy to explain. It happens that a spark occurs when the supply valve is completely open, because some of the gasoline does not burn and ends up in the manifold. And with early ignition, shooting will occur in the air filter.

Delayed ignition will not only cause popping in the muffler, but also burnout of the intake valve as time runs out. Therefore, there is no need to delay ignition control.

Checking the spark plugs

Another reason for the combustion of gasoline will not be a weak spark. This may indicate:

Poor contacts on wires with high voltages. You need to check them and, if necessary, clean them. And we also check whether there are any breakthroughs to ground.
Malfunctioning distributor activity . It would be good to check his activities as well.
Partial failure of spark plugs . If one already fails, this will be visible by the power of the spark it produces. Therefore, not all fuel will burn. Check and, if necessary, change spark plugs.

You need to use spark plugs with the correct heat ratings. This will lead to the required spark power to burn out the entire fuel mixture.

Incorrect heat clearance

The thermal gap is a length indicating the increase in volume of individual parts of the engine when heated. Specifically, it is located in the middle of the valve lifters and the cams of the distribution shafts. If the gap is incorrectly set, this may be one reason to shoot at the muffler.

An additional reason for the increased gap will be increased noise during engine operation, and its power will further decrease. If the gap is small, then this leads to the gases also shooting into the exhaust pipe. This is due to the fact that the valve is not completely closed and does not stop the flow of gasoline into the manifold, from where it goes further into the exhaust gas release mechanism.

Connecting an additional transformer

For safety reasons, the battery is disconnected before laying the wire.

Additionally, three wires with a cross-section similar to the wires going to the installed transformer are tightened.

From a conventional ignition coil, one wire goes to an additionally installed terminal, the second is laid to the car’s dashboard, the third connects the dashboard to the new transformer.

Next, a toggle switch is installed on the dashboard, to which pre-prepared wires will be connected.

To avoid engine imbalance and increased wear of piston system parts, the device should be used correctly:

engine starting;
warming up the engine to operating temperature;
engine speed should reach 3500 rpm;
pressing the system power button for 2–3 seconds.

To prevent the engine from stalling, turn on the ignition key when reducing speed.

How to make forward flow on a VAZ 2107 with your own hands

Making a direct flow for a “seven” is not much different in complexity from remaking a standard muffler. To make forward flow on a VAZ 2107 with your own hands, you should follow these steps:

cut a piece of pipe with a diameter of 42 millimeters and a length equal to the length of the muffler;
drill many holes in a thinner pipe, leaving only 5-7 centimeters intact from its edges;
install and weld a pair of flanges on the edges of the pipe so that 5-6 centimeters of pipe protrude from each edge;
wrap the surface of the workpiece between the flanges with mineral wool, asbestos cloth, then with mineral wool;
put a larger diameter pipe on top of the mineral wool, cutting it so that its length coincides with the interflange distance;
weld the edges of the thick pipe to the flanges, making a sealed seam;
paint the direct flow with heat-resistant paint.

Security measures

When installing the system yourself, you should act very carefully so as not to damage or destroy the exhaust system.

The amount of gasoline that enters the exhaust system should be limited to prevent damage to it and to prevent an explosion.

To avoid damage to the vehicle (engine failure, exhaust system), the flame from the muffler should last no more than 3 seconds.

Demonstration of the “dragon tongue” is allowed in an open area (specialized area), away from any objects and free from people. The car must be stationary when the flame is “spewing out”. When driving and on public roads, the use of such an effect is prohibited.

The simpler the device for the effect of the escaping flame, the faster the car wears out. A more reliable electronic system is still recommended.

Remember safety first

It is prohibited to have switched on electrical appliances and flammable objects near the vehicle.

The flames can reach 50 cm, which can cause some problems with the paintwork of your car.

Long-term and frequent use of the effect increases the thermal load on the exhaust system and other elements associated with it; in order to avoid damage to the car, you should not get carried away with the demonstration.

Experiment” and make an impression, the main thing is to do it carefully so that the effect is positive for you and others, and, of course, for your car!

How can this be achieved in practice?

So, first we should think about protecting some of the fuel from combustion.

Remember safety first

This can be done in two ways:

De-accelerate the engine, turn off the ignition and press the gas again. At this point there will be no fire in the cylinder block and the mixture remains unignited. At the same time, monitor the engine speed - to prevent it from stalling, turn on the ignition when the speed starts to drop.
Remove a couple of spark plugs. Then the gasoline will not partially ignite. To protect the space under the hood from fuel, screw plugs in place of the spark plugs. Gas and gasoline will end up in the exhaust system. In order for the engine to operate stably, it is better to take cylinders with different TDCs - lower and upper.

From the above it is clear that a flame from the muffler is possible only on those cars that are equipped with an injection or carburetor type gasoline engine. With a diesel engine, such a trick will not work - for it to ignite, it will require compression, the conditions for which at the exit from the exhaust pipe simply do not exist.

It should be noted that a conventional exhaust system is not suitable for the flame trick - it contains various partitions and a filter system that will not allow the surviving fuel to pass to the outlet of the exhaust pipe. Therefore, anyone interested in fire from the exhaust pipe will need to work on making the system straight-through.

So, we figured out how to put fuel into the exhaust pipe, now let's figure out how to ignite it.

You can make a flame from a muffler using electronics, which can control the ignition on and off and calculate the time intervals at which a spark will be supplied to an additional spark plug.

This is done quite simply:

For this purpose, you can install a spark plug at the outlet. We connect the ignition coil to the rear of the car and install an additional coil.
Ten centimeters from the outlet of the exhaust pipe, we drill a hole and install a bushing for the spark plug - to do this, use cold welding or weld the nut into which the spark plug is screwed.
A cap is placed on the candle and connected to an additional coil. Place a break on the wire so you can turn the flame on and off at the right time.

For those who do not want to experiment with a car, they began to produce ready-made kits, after installing which you can surprise those present with a spectacular spectacle.

Shots on injection engines

Basically, this problem occurs quite rarely on injection-type engines. Even if such a malfunction occurs, then, as a rule, the reason may be hidden behind the same reasons as in a carburetor engine. The only exception to the rule may be a malfunction of the sensor contacts. This is what sometimes occurs on injection engines more than other cases. It is almost impossible to independently identify such a problem. Therefore, immediately when popping noises appear from the muffler, it is reasonable for the owner of a car with an injection engine to seek help from specialists. Only diagnostics will allow you to accurately determine the problem.

The video will explain why popping noises occur from the muffler:

Extraneous sounds in the muffler are a clear sign of a malfunction in one or more engine systems. Let's look at why the muffler shoots and what driving with such a malfunction can lead to, as well as how to independently diagnose the cause. To understand why shots occur in a silencer, you should start from the very basics.

How to make forward flow quieter

To reduce exhaust volume, devices are used that reduce the flow area of the exhaust pipe of the muffler. Let's look at the damper and flute commonly used on cars.

Damper installation

The damper is installed either before or after the muffler. The volume of the forward exhaust will be clearly reduced only when the damper is completely closed. Technological clearances of 3-5% remain for the passage of exhaust gases - so the engine does not stall. In this regard, engine power is significantly reduced due to blockage of the exhaust system.

the damper is made by hand

A damper is also used to switch from a direct-flow to a return-flow muffler and vice versa, if necessary. In this case, a new muffler is installed parallel to the old one, and the damper is mounted in front of them. This scheme is already used on some brands of cars from the factory.

mechanical adjustment of the damper is carried out on the move by the driver from the cab

You can drive a short distance with the throttle closed, but driving constantly is unacceptable for the engine.

the damper is installed in front of the muffler

Making and installing a flute

The flute (silencer) has more preferable characteristics. It dampens the exhaust pipe clearance much less than a damper. You can buy a flute, knowing the internal diameter of the outlet pipe, or make it yourself. Various silencer designs are shown in the photo.

Flute mounting options

Possible versions of the flute.

External - for outlet pipe diameters up to 50–60 mm.

method of attaching a flute to a small diameter exhaust pipe

a properly designed flute “helps” you ride more quietly

the sound becomes “more pleasant” to the ears of the traffic inspector

Tools and materials for making a flute

Bulgarian;
electric drill;
welding machine;
spanners.

It is better to choose blanks from stainless steel with a thickness of 0.8–1.2 mm, which guarantees long service life. Blanks made of “ferrous” metals are acceptable with a thickness of 2.0–2.5 mm or less if we plan to use the flute for short periods. As blanks we use two pieces of pipe and sheet metal for the flange.

Making a flute with your own hands

The order of work performed:

We adjust all parts to the required dimensions. We measure the dimensions of the flange and larger pipe “on site”.
We drill holes.

the notch divides the gas exhaust into two streams, which reduces the exhaust volume

To further relieve the exhaust system from excess exhaust gas pressure, holes are drilled in the flange.

additional holes allow for a freer exhaust

the flow of exhaust gases is suppressed due to unloading holes and counterflow

There is no need to paint stainless steel

Videos about the flute

Video: sound of exhaust through forward flow without flute

Video: sound of a flute on the same car

Lada 4×4 3D › Logbook › Exhaust system Stegner sport VAZ 21214m

For a long time I thought about installing a more advanced exhaust manifold. After all, the basic Zhiguli has a very strange structure. When the exhaust system operates, it turns out that cylinders 2 and 3 blow directly into the exhaust pipe, and cylinders 1 and 4 blow into each other and only then into the exhaust pipe. In my opinion, this is not very good, and the internal diameter of standard pipes is greatly narrowed relative to the holes in the cylinder head. It so happened that I found and ordered the entire exhaust on the Stinger website. I couldn’t find the Tolyatinskaya company itself or its representative office in Moscow. Payment immediately by card. Delivery within a week to one of the transport companies. The purchase amount was approximately 7,500 rubles and delivery was approximately 300 rubles.

Unfortunately, there were no photos left; the phone was formatted.

The site is not the worst. It is possible to find products. The most important thing is not to get hung up on the words of market hucksters - “hey, it’s a waste of money, but take it to the classics, they’re the same.” The exhaust systems are completely different. The site has a manifold (spider) and exhaust pipe for VAZ 21214m. And it is designed specifically for a car with a catalyst and a stabilizer bend. The exhaust pipe has a mounting for one lambda probe! (which obliges you to transfer the car to Euro 3) this is the minimum. Also, all connections are bolted, you don’t have to worry about rolling. True, at first glance the exhaust looks poor and very clumsy, although it shines, I was afraid that problems would arise during installation.

First of all, I replaced the middle part with the resonator and the rear part with the muffler. Everything fit very well and there was no need to suffer, but there were problems with the spider and the exhaust pipe. There wasn't enough time, because you need to remove the collector, reflash the brains, and most importantly, wrap the glass in the collector with cloth.

And now the time has come, it’s summer outside, the sun is baking and I’ve become a little freer at work. Arriving home at about 7 pm, I began to uproot the car.

The plan was to finish before dark. Removing the exhaust manifold was not difficult, but here is the location of the heater and thermostat pipes. Just fire! After some fiddling around, everything was removed. Surprisingly, the original manifold looks much better than the Zhiguli one, but the internal diameter of the holes is 3mm smaller than that of the Stinger.

Everything was not complicated, and very ordinary. But unfortunately, the intake manifold also had to be unscrewed. Because Stinger’s didn’t just fit in there. Yes, and I had to tinker with the exhaust pipe. It turned out to be not easy to push it between the steering rods, the stabilizer and the diagonal strut of the gearbox, I even unscrewed the stabilizer mount... Well, it’s not so easy, when I thought about turning the steering wheel to the left, everything went like clockwork. The biggest problem is the dry fiberglass fabric, which crumbles and sticks to everything. When everything was in place, a problem arose - the first lambda probe did not reach its normal place in the exhaust pipe. I had to leave everything for tomorrow.

Installation of a resonator with an absorbing filler

Instead of the basic resonator, another one is installed, equipped with sound-absorbing material inside. Basalt fiber is most often used as a filler. This method is the most expensive.

To replace the resonator with a new one, you need to cut out the old part, insert the resonator with filler in its place and weld it on both sides.

Replacing the old resonator with a new one

Lada 4×4 3D re:Build 1.8 › Logbook › Developed exhaust system on NIVU (VAZ 21213)

Good day.
Finally the exhaust! For my 1.8 engine there was not enough exhaust, you could feel it right away. After all, even at the factory, on injection machines, the pipe became 51mm, instead of the classic 43mm (or 46mm), which was borrowed from Lada cars with a volume of 1.2-1.6. Not the point. In addition to all this, the rear tank was crumbling, there was a terrible hiss when pressing the gas, the car was stifling and did not show its full power.

Let's start with the exhaust manifold. (Spider)

Everything here is relatively simple, I bought it, installed it, and connected the bottom. Personally, I have 2 questions:

1) Which spider should I look for for the carburetor Niva 21213 (21214M already has its own, another spider, due to the changed shape of the stabilizer) 2) 4-2-1 or still 4-1?

The first issue was solved at random, I bought an exhaust with the index 2107, the seller assured that it fits the 213th Niva, I didn’t lie, and it happened.

I studied the second question for a long time on the Internet, there is an opinion that 4-2-1 is lower, and 4-1 is upper. My opinion is that I won’t feel any difference between 4-1 and 4-2-1 on my engine.

And the final decision to purchase was this article: ISSUE For those who are too lazy to read, the essence is at the very end, under the last picture.

Issue STINGER 4-1 2107 purchased:

And it was installed along with the engine. Temporarily paired with an old pipe.

Next, the middle part and the rear part, in simple terms - a resonator and a can.

Since I initially wanted to get an increase in power, and not sound, I began to ask people how to make a “Quiet direct flow” I heard one answer - “BOSAL 215-211”, also known as an exhaust from SAAB 9000. Well, about the resonator - “Any direct flow 51 -th diameter"

No sooner said than done, I went to the market in search of these goodies, and found them only in the foreign aisles:

Since the rear bank has a 55mm internal diameter, I also decided to take the resonator of the same diameter. Ready!

Now this whole thing needs to be put together, and not just “it would work”, but neatly, competently and reliably. And most importantly, WHAT. So we go back to the store and buy:

— Corrugation 51mm X 200mm

— 2x Pairs of triangular flanges 51mm

— 2 meters of 51mm pipe

Material of pipes and bends - Stainless steel Yes, major, a little expensive, but reliable. “The car will rot, the exhaust will remain”

Pipes and bends are seamless, smooth, polished. I really liked it. They gave a good discount at the warehouse and decided to definitely take it!

It's just a matter of small things: welding, joining, fitting. I thought that it was a small matter, but there was no hard work all day. In progress:

The exhaust turned out to be dismountable and repairable:

Can be disassembled into 3 parts, not counting the spider. (1 - Spider tap, 2 - Resonator, 3 - Rear can)

The middle part is ready:

And then the rear one was ready and all this was installed on the car. In terms of fastenings, bends, and separation, everything turned out just like a regular factory exhaust.

Conclusion:

The most interesting thing for me was whether he would go or not. Test rides up hills, full throttle, and overtaking showed that the exhaust is one of the most important parts when modifying an engine. Specifically in my case, I can’t say what was choking the car. It was a crumbling rear tank or a lack of capacity. But the car actually moved, and it ran. Where I was going 4th on the climb, she is now asking for 5th. On the track there is a good jerk for overtaking, the dynamics are very pleasing, I want to constantly press the pedal, I’m delighted!

The most interesting thing for subscribers is the exhaust sound. And here, too, he didn’t go wrong, they said that it was quiet - and so it is. It was the bass that was added, a very low “boo boo boo”, pleasant. For example, in the cabin there is no difference at all with stock, but when you stand behind the car, the sound is pleasing. Video? I didn’t want to shoot it until the end, because, well, I couldn’t convey that sound on video. It's just that a phone camera can't record all frequencies of sound. Definitely a must hear live. But still:

Can I advise installing this exhaust system configuration? Yes, be 100% sure that you will like it. Only those who like a really loud exhaust will not like it; the volume of the sound does not amaze you.

I wanted it to be minimal and informative, it turned out as always. Thanks everyone! Good roads and proper exhaust!

Should I paint the muffler or not?

As noted above, muffler repairs must be completed with painting. The high-quality composition reliably protects the metal from corrosion and prevents aging of the metal. What causes this?

During work, the outer part of the muffler cools down under the influence of the environment, while the inner part remains hot.

Due to the temperature difference, condensation may appear, which negatively affects the metal surface.

When processing the muffler, it is recommended to use heat-resistant paint. Please note that during operation the device warms up to 100 degrees Celsius, and the collector temperature can even reach 300-400 degrees.

To avoid destruction of the paintwork, it is advisable to apply the composition in several layers with a short break of 10-15 minutes.

The algorithm of actions is as follows:

Cleaning the treated area using abrasive materials and brushes.
Washing and degreasing the surface.
Painting using paints KO 828, KO 8101, and KO 8111.

If your muffler burns out, don't despair. The best solution is to inspect the location of the damage, analyze possible repair options and eliminate the problem.

Delaying restoration work can lead to serious vehicle malfunctions, including an explosion of the muffler.