VAZ-2115 starter: possible malfunctions

The starter does not work after turning the ignition key

During the operation of vehicles, regardless of the type of engine installed, a common malfunction is starter failure, as a result of which it is not possible to start the engine after turning on the ignition. In other words, the car starter does not respond to turning the key in the ignition switch. In such situations, after turning the key, instead of cranking the engine crankshaft, the starter is completely silent, buzzes or makes clicks, but does not turn the engine. Next, we will look at the main malfunctions when the starter does not respond in any way to turning the key in the ignition, as well as other reasons that may cause the starter to not work.

How to start a car when the starter relay does not click

Any car enthusiast can determine if the starter is broken. It is enough to know what happens in this case - the car does not start, extraneous noises, a metallic grinding sound (but the characteristic relay click, on the contrary, is absent), the starter stops spontaneously.

It is still possible to make the engine start when the starter refuses to do so. Every driver should know about this, at least in order to get to the nearest car service center.

• A manual car will start with a push when it is “pushed” up to the starting speed.
• Automation is a little more complicated. You need to close the starter relay terminals with a wrench. In this case, the automatic transmission is set to neutral. The key is turned in the ignition switch and the brake pedal is pressed. If the battery is not completely dead, the car will start.

Why doesn't the starter work?

A car starter is an electric motor that is powered by a battery and is designed to start a gasoline or diesel engine. For this reason, this device is prone to both mechanical failures and problems in electrical power circuits or problems in the contact area. If the car's starter does not respond to turning the key in the ignition and does not make sounds (for certain problems, the starter clicks or buzzes), then the check should begin with the following:

The ignition switch contact group can be checked very quickly. To do this, just insert the key and turn on the ignition. The lighting of the lights on the dashboard will clearly indicate that the contact group is in working condition, that is, you should look for problems in the ignition switch only if the indicated lights on the dashboard do not light up after turning the key.

In the case of a suspected battery, it will be enough to turn on the headlights or headlights, and then evaluate the lighting of the light bulbs on the dashboard, etc. If these energy consumers light up very dimly or do not turn on at all, then there is a high probability of a deep discharge of the battery. You should also check the battery terminals and the ground connection to the body or engine. Insufficient or no contact at the terminals or ground wire will result in severe current leakage. In other words, the starter will not have enough power from the battery to start the engine.

To check the battery on a car with your own hands, you need to remove the negative terminal, after which the voltage at the battery outputs is measured with a multimeter. A reading below 9V will mean that the battery is low and needs to be charged.

The presence of characteristic clicks from the starter when trying to start the engine, which are also accompanied by a noticeable decrease in brightness or complete extinction of the lights on the dashboard, indicates that the solenoid relay is clicking. The specified relay can click both in the case of a discharged battery, and as a result of malfunctions of the retractor or starter itself.

Doesn't turn at all

If, when you turn on the ignition, the armature does not rotate and the traction relay does not operate, check the voltage in the battery. A minimum of 12 volts is required to start successfully. The starter takes a lot of energy from the battery. That's why it's so important to keep it in good condition. There are several ways to check the voltage on the battery. The best method is a multimeter. When the contacts are closed, the device will display the result. But if there is no such device, and there is no voltage indicator on the panel, you can use the old-fashioned method. To do this, take a 12-volt car light bulb and a pair of wires. With bare contacts it is closed to the terminals. If the voltage is 12 volts, it will light up properly. Anything less will burn very dimly.

The next reason why the traction relay does not turn on is loosely tightened wire tips (both on the battery side and on the starter side). Perhaps the contacts have oxidized there. Use a special cleaner or sandpaper. Experts do not rule out a break in the pull-in winding. If cleaning the contacts does not help and the starter does not turn, the VAZ-2115 requires replacing the traction relay. We'll look at how to do this at the end of the article.

Other reasons why the starter may not respond when the ignition is turned on

In some cases, there have been malfunctions in the operation of automobile anti-theft systems (car alarms, immobilizers). Such systems simply block the supply of electric current to the starter after the security mode is removed. At the same time, the diagnostics shows the full functionality of the battery, power contacts and other elements of electrical equipment that are involved when starting the engine from the starter. For an accurate determination, it is necessary to directly supply power from the battery to the starter, that is, bypassing other systems. If the starter works, then there is a high probability of failure of the car's anti-theft system or immobilizer.

The next item to check is the solenoid relay. If it breaks, the starter can:

Bendix and retractor

The above symptoms will indicate that the fault is localized to the solenoid relay or the bendix does not engage the flywheel. Note that in the case of Bendix, a more characteristic sign is that the starter crunches and does not turn the engine. Another common sign of a bad starter is that the starter buzzes but does not turn the engine.

To check the traction relay, voltage must be supplied from the battery to the power terminal of the relay. If the engine starts to turn over, then the retractor starter is obviously faulty. A frequent breakdown is the burning of the contacts. To eliminate it, you will need to remove the relay to clean the nickels. After cleaning, you must still be prepared to quickly replace the traction relay, since in the factory the contact pads are covered with special protection that resists burning during operation. Stripping will mean that the specified layer is removed, as a result of which it is difficult to predict the moment when the retractor coins will burn again.

Now let's turn our attention to the starter bendix. Bendix is ​​a gear through which torque from the starter motor is transmitted to the flywheel. The Bendix is ​​mounted on a single shaft with the starter rotor. To better understand, it is necessary to understand how a starter works. The principle of operation is that after turning the ignition key to the “start” position, current is supplied to the solenoid relay. The retractor transmits voltage to the starter winding, resulting in the engagement of the bendix (gear) with the flywheel ring gear (flywheel ring gear). In other words, two gears are combined to transmit the starter torque to the flywheel.

Wear of the Bendix gear means that there is no normal connection with the flywheel ring. For this reason, a cracking sound may be heard when starting the engine, and the starter may spin freely without engaging and buzzing. A similar situation arises if the teeth of the flywheel rim are heavily worn. The repair involves disassembling the starter to replace the bendix and/or removing the transmission to replace the flywheel. To check the bendix yourself, you will need to close two power contacts on the traction relay. The electric current will bypass the relay, which will determine the rotation of the starter. If the starter rotates easily and hums, you should check the quality of engagement of the bendix with the flywheel.

How to solve the problem and start the engine?

How to start a car if the starter is faulty?

There are several options to solve the problem:

1. The most common is to start the engine using a pushrod. The car must be pushed until it can reach a certain speed required to take off, preferably in third or second gear. Only a car with an automatic transmission cannot be started from a pusher.
2. Try closing the starter. To do this you will need a screwdriver as well as a wrench. The size of the key must be selected in accordance with the distance between the relay terminals - they will need to be closed. The gearbox selector is set to neutral, the brake pedal is pressed, and the key must be in the required position.
3. As a rule, the starter simply has to be repaired, but as practice shows, this mechanism can rarely be repaired. It would be advisable to make repairs if the bendix or relay fails. If the malfunction affects the electrical system, the device will need to be replaced.

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Ignition problems

Most often, the reason lies precisely in one component of the ignition system. Weaknesses that are the first to come under suspicion are:

Most often, the problem lies in a banal lack of voltage at the ignition switch contacts. It is supplied directly from the battery to the starter.

If, after turning the key, the dashboard goes out or does not light up at all, it may be a problem with the cylinder.

Checking the functionality of the ignition switch is relatively simple:

If there is no contact, then you should simply purchase a new lock. It simply doesn't make sense to repair it.

You need to pay attention to the behavior of the car immediately after turning the key. If there is no characteristic clicking sound from the side of the door from under the panel, the relay has probably failed. It is located above the clutch pedal.

Like the ignition switch, it simply does not make sense to repair such a relay. You need to purchase a new one and install it in place. You also need to check the ignition coils. Often the spark on the spark plugs disappears due to their failure. The test must be carried out by removing the coil and connecting it to the tester. You should ring the windings - a break in one may be the cause of the malfunction.

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If you have problems starting the engine in cold weather, you should make sure that the battery is working properly. Often it simply fails.

It is not difficult to check the condition of the battery using a conventional tester - you need to switch it to the constant voltage measurement mode and set it to the 20 V limit.

The voltage between the terminals should be 12.6 V. It would also be a good idea to measure the density of the electrolyte using a hydrometer.

The relay does not click. Starter malfunction

Important! The starter is not designed to operate for a long time. It consumes too much electrical energy, and the battery reserves are not unlimited. Its reserves are barely enough for 10 - 15 seconds, during which the car will have time to advance a maximum of 100 - 120 meters.

When the starter is working properly, a click can be clearly heard. This sound is made by the relay when the bendex is retracted. If the starter relay does not click, then one of three problems is happening:

1. The power supply has been interrupted. Moreover, there may be current, but the voltage reading will be too low. Checking the wires and connections will confirm (or refute) this suspicion. However, the most common reason is battery discharge.
2. Mechanical damage to individual starter elements. Accumulated wear, repeated attempts to start the engine incorrectly, and failure to inspect this part during regular maintenance are all aggravating factors for mechanical damage.
3. Relay failure. This fact can only be confirmed by professional diagnostics.

There are also situations not related to the relay when a starter malfunction is detected. In this case, there must be firm confidence that the battery is fully charged. For example:

• The starter works, but the flywheel does not rotate. The cause is a worn ring on the flywheel. Replacing it, as well as turning the crankshaft a few centimeters, completely solves this problem.
• Immobilizers block the vehicle's electrical circuits, making it impossible to activate the starter (no current is supplied). Before starting, turn off the anti-theft system.
• The brushes (and brush holders) are worn out. This is, in general, the weak point of the starter. With their help, voltage is transmitted to the rotating rotor. Constant friction leads to rapid wear.
• Damage to the winding insulation leads to a short circuit in its turns. Smoke and an unpleasant burning smell may appear. Such a starter cannot be restored without replacing the winding.
• Poor shaft alignment leading to jamming or stiff rotation of the starter.
• Gear wear leads to inconsistency between the bendix and the flywheel. It simply slides through the teeth without catching them. The problem is solved by replacing the gear.

Differences from its predecessor

The VAZ 2115 car is a more modernized version of model 21099. The improvement of the “ninety-nine” contributed to the updating of the electrical wiring diagram.

It should be noted that, unlike 21099, the VAZ 2115 injector is equipped with newer body parts, in particular, we are talking about:

Toy models VAZ 21099 and VAZ 2115 Of course, the changes also affected the engine compartment. Compared to 21099, the VAZ 2115 is equipped with a more powerful engine. Changes also affected the interior - a more advanced center console, instrument panel, and seats. An on-board computer was also added to the design of the car. Accordingly, the overall dimensions of the VAZ 2115 also underwent changes. But in general, this car remained the same - a front-wheel drive, five-door and five-seater sedan.

Starter failure

If all other system components are in order, then the reason for the inability to start may lie in the absence of a starter. Typical problems:

It should be noted: the location of the power terminals on the starter suggests the presence of moisture. Therefore, often the contact simply oxidizes, which leads to problems in the operation of the device. That is why you need to carefully examine the contacts. Then clean them and check the voltage. If it is missing, there may be a break in the wiring.

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When there is voltage, but the starter does not turn, it is often a problem with the bearings. To replace it, you will need a clean garage, as well as a special puller. This is the only way to dismantle it.

A little more often than a bearing, the solenoid relay fails. Sometimes it just jams - just tap it lightly with the key.

It is very simple to check the functionality of the retractor - just place the starter on the engine block and then touch the contact of the wiring relay connected to the positive terminal. If the starter starts spinning, it means the solenoid relay is in working condition. All of the problems listed above are typical and do not require any major repairs.

How to close the starter directly in this video:

2. This problem occurs due to burnt nickels. You need to remove the relay and then disassemble it. Clean the round nickels with sandpaper and install everything back. Most often, such an event solves the problem, although some drivers think that the retractor is a non-separable part, which means it will have to be changed. It is worth noting that this is only a temporary measure, because a special coating is applied to the heels from the factory, which protects them from corrosion. So, when you reach your desired destination, take care of purchasing a new relay.

3. If the starter is completely silent, then the current simply does not flow to it. Many modern cars are equipped with a special relay that reduces the starting current. There are times when it suddenly fails and then the starter simply goes silent. As a temporary measure, you can install anything else, for example, heated rear window, and then drive to the store for a new one.

• Sometimes only the retractor is triggered, which means it does not complete the circuit. Here you can only close its contacts directly. Although, this does not always help. If the brushes on the starter are worn out, then it will not spin. Although there are known cases when it worked every other time.
• The second problem is a winding malfunction; if the insulation is damaged, it will never work again; it is recommended to replace it immediately.
• The latter case is characterized by a mechanical malfunction - a shaft misalignment caused by poor quality or increased wear of the bearings. The starter is simply stuck and turns with great difficulty.

An unpleasant crunch appears due to a broken Bendix. It is a small gear mounted on the rotor shaft.

When the retractor circuit is closed, the bendix extends and must engage with the flywheel teeth. Increased wear of the gear leads to the fact that it does not cling, but simply slips through the teeth, which causes a strong crunch. The motor remains motionless. In this case, simply change the gear.

Now you know what to do with a starter that won't start the engine. Therefore, before purchasing a new unit, find a specific malfunction and fix it by purchasing just one spare part. This will help save a lot of money.

What is it like - a VAZ 2114 starter?

If you decide to independently repair this small but very important part, first of all you need to familiarize yourself with its structure and operating principle. Regardless of the make and model of the car, the starter has the same design and performs the same function, only the dimensions differ.

Essentially it is an electric motor. Its stationary part is the stator, in the housing of which there are 4 magnets that act as poles, and a movable armature. And after the ignition is turned on, another important part - the retractor relay - gives the corresponding signal, and the armature begins to rotate, constantly accelerating. Bendix ensures the engine flywheel meshes.

The rated power of the starter is 1.55 kW, and the current strength depends on a number of indicators. For example, during idling it is only 80 A, under normal loads it is about 150 A. If you increase the power to the maximum, the current will reach 350 A. During frosty periods, the starter will be in an inhibited state, and the current will be 500 and even 700 A. Home The task is to create torque. It drives the crankshaft until the combustible mixture ignites. Naturally, at this time the part experiences enormous loads, and one fine day the VAZ 2114 starter no longer turns on.

To extend the life of the starter, it is necessary to operate the car correctly. When starting, you cannot hold the key for more than 15 seconds, and if the first attempt fails, you can repeat it only after 30 seconds.

How to change a relay with your own hands?

To do this, we need to de-energize the on-board network - remove the terminals from the battery. Next, clean the surface of the starter from dust and dirt. Unscrew the nut from the relay and remove its contact. Unscrew the bolts securing the relay to the starter body. After this, remove the nuts from the end.

View gallery

Next, you need to dismantle the old core and put a new one in its place. All elements are assembled in reverse order. It is important to check the operation of the new device immediately after repair. We install the starter in place, pump up the terminals and start the engine. The engine should start with half a turn (provided the battery is normally charged).

Low battery

The most common problem in this case! It is especially relevant in winter! In this case, you need to charge, replace the battery, or warm it up (if the problem occurs in winter) or light it.

The main sign of a bad battery will be the noise of the relay operating when you turn the ignition key! But if the battery is “healthy” and the noise of the relay being activated is present, then see the next point.

In general, starting the engine in winter is a separate issue. Which will be the subject of a separate article!

What do you need to know about the starter relay for the VAZ 2115?

The starter itself is a four-pole DC motor that is powered by electricity from the battery. A technical inspection of the starter must be done every 100,000 km. Based on the principle of its operation, the starter consumes quite a powerful current, so even minor fluctuations in resistance can significantly reduce its performance and lead to complete breakdown. In order to make sure that the failure is in the relay, it is necessary to do a check. However, before performing this type of check yourself, be very careful to avoid possible injury. We turn on the ignition and turn the key, if the starter does not work, but you can hear some characteristic clicks, this means the relay is working, but the starter itself will have to be disassembled. If the situation is the opposite and when you bridge the contacts on the back wall of the starter without removing it from the engine you will hear the mechanism spinning, then the whole problem is in the relay.

What else do you need to know about relays?

Since the starter consumes quite a powerful current, the integrity of its elements should be checked every 100 thousand kilometers or every 3 years. During this time, slight fluctuations in voltage may occur in the mechanism, which can cause the relay to fail.

You can check its functionality by a characteristic click. It happens that when starting, the starter continues to work. In this case, you will hear a sharp squeal. This indicates that the retractor has failed. The mechanism cannot return to its reverse position.

Starter relay malfunction

There are several options for checking the relay, which can be used to determine whether it is faulty.

In most VAZ cars, the relays are similar to each other, differing only in the way they are attached to the starter. And unfortunately, breakdowns that specifically affect the relay in 95% of cases end in its replacement. But still, before making this diagnosis, you need to make sure of one more serviceability, namely the functionality of the contacts at the place where the wire and terminal are soldered. Often, due to oxidation, the contact is lost, and by soldering it again, you can get rid of the problem of the starter relay breaking, provided that after this procedure the car is fully operational.

For a VAZ 2115, it is more cost-effective to replace the relay than to repair it to the point where it works properly.

Any service station will help you perform such a replacement, but this pleasure is relatively expensive. A much cheaper way would be to do everything yourself. If the owner of the car knows his ward 2115 inside and out, then such a replacement can be made independently without much effort, knowing the specific sequence of actions.

What should be done in this case?

To determine whether the starter is working, you need to directly jump the wires on it using a piece of thick copper wire. This test will determine the likely cause of a faulty wiring or starter solenoid relay.

If closing the contacts of the starter does not lead to anything, it means that the problem is in the retractor relay, and if the starter begins to rotate the crankshaft, it is necessary to inspect the wiring and electrical components involved in the operation of the starter.

To get to the solenoid relay, you need to remove the starter and repair or replace the damaged part. To do this, you need to prepare socket wrenches for 13, 10 and a screwdriver. Before removing the starter, it is necessary to turn off the power to the car to prevent a possible short circuit. The main thing in repair is safety.

In checking for damage to the wiring and auxiliary relays during the operation of the starter, it is necessary to inspect the wires going to the starter, check their connections and other equipment.

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Noise when rotating armature

In this case, check the condition of the drive shaft and armature bearing liners. Replace worn elements. The starter may have become loose or its cover at one end may be broken. Because of this, the mechanism works incorrectly. Inspect the flywheel itself. There should be no wear on its teeth. If present, the flywheel needs to be replaced. It happens that the gear does not disengage with it. In this case, the cause of the malfunction is in the clutch. It jams on the shaft splines. The VAZ-2115 starter relay can work normally. Clean the splines and treat them with oil. This helps eliminate jamming.

Characteristic

Every car has an ignition system. However, it's not just spark plugs, a coil and armored wires. This system also includes a starter. The VAZ-2115 is also equipped with it. On Samara-2 cars it is of a gear type. The element is assembled with a traction relay and a drive mechanism.

View gallery The starter interacts with the ignition switch and the engine, being a kind of intermediate link. The main purpose of the element is to create the necessary torque for the engine, which will give the internal combustion engine the ability to work independently.

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Device

The VAZ-2115 starter itself consists of the following elements:

• Stator.
• Rotor (armature).
• Contact plate.
• Brushes with holder.
• Traction relay.
• Drive mechanism.

Power is supplied to the starter windings through a traction relay. So, when you turn the ignition key, a starting current (about 500 amperes) flows from the battery to the relay. Next, this mechanism moves the drive element.

The engagement includes the starter drive gear and the flywheel ring gear. A few revolutions are enough for the unit to start successfully (of course, if you have a working starter). VAZ-2115 has a simple design of this element. However, malfunctions with it should not be ruled out. So, let's look at why the starter on a VAZ-2115 car does not start and what to do about it.