How to change the rear silent block of the front lever Lanos

Daewoo Lanos rear beam silent blocks can withstand at least 60,000 (km) . The mileage can reach 100,000 (km), and the car travels on normal roads.

The work of replacing the rear silent blocks on the beam is quite labor-intensive . After all, the rear beam must be completely dismantled so as not to change the silent blocks while hanging, as this is inconvenient, impractical, and sometimes even unsafe .

It is worth noting that in parallel with the silent blocks of the rear beam of the Daewoo Lanos, it is advisable to change:

• Shock absorber struts
• Springs
• Stabilizer bushings
• Brake hoses
• etc.

During the repair process, the master definitely cannot do without an inspection hole or a lift..

Which rear front control arm silent block for Lanos 1.5 should I choose?

At the choice of the car owner, for installation we use spare parts from the original manufacturer GENERAL MOTORS with article number P90235040, which is identical to 90235040.

Which silent blocks are better

When choosing which silent blocks are better, it all comes down to discussing the advantages and disadvantages of polyurethane silent blocks and rubber ones. Let's look at their strengths and weaknesses, find out the opinions of car owners and determine which ones are better. More details

Tool used when replacing a silent block at a service station

To fix the bolts securing the silent block bracket of the rear left front suspension arm, we use a thread lock from the manufacturer Mannol with article number 9924. The average cost is 160 rubles .

Do-it-yourself replacement of Chevrolet Lanos silent blocks

1. Work on replacing silent blocks is carried out on an inspection pit or a lift, if available. Before we begin, we treat the threaded connections that need to be loosened with WD-40.

2. I don’t deliberately describe the process of removing a wheel, because if you decide to replace silent blocks at home, then most likely you know how to remove a wheel. In general, we jack up the car, hang it up and remove the wheel.

3. Take two “12” keys and use them to unscrew the stabilizer bar, then remove it.

4. Now unscrew the ball nut; to do this, use a wrench set to “19”.

5. Use a ball joint remover to press the ball joint out of the knuckle.

6. If you don’t have a puller and don’t want to unscrew it, you can go the other way - by unscrewing the three mounting bolts that secure it directly to the lever. Essentially it will be the same thing, so I did just that.

7. Next, using the “14” socket, unscrew the two bolts of the rear silent block bracket.

8. Now take two couplings on “22” and unscrew the bolt of the front silent block, hit the lever with a hammer several times in the direction of movement of the car, then remove the lever together with the bolt.

How to replace the rear silent block of the front lever with your own hands?

We lift the car. Determine the location of the rear left silent block of the front suspension arm.

We clean the mounting bolts of the silent block bracket with a metal brush. We unscrew them with a pneumatic gun with a 14 mm .

Remove the silent block bracket.

Manually remove the rear silent block from the front suspension arm. We compare two (old and new) parts for consistency.

We install a new silent block on the lever.

Use a pry bar to press the silent block onto the lever until it sits correctly.

We check that the silent block is seated correctly. The suspension arm should not stick out from the silent block + we are guided by the places where the bracket is attached.

We install the silent block mounting bracket and press it tightly with a hydraulic jack.

Before installing the mounting bolts, apply a thread locker to the threads to prevent the bolts from unscrewing.

We put the bolts in their seat and tighten them until they stop. We replace the right rear silent block of the front suspension arm using the same principle.

Source

How to choose

There can be a wide variety of such tools, because today they are presented both as a separate C-shaped device with several attachments, and as whole sets, which include guide pins with nuts, sleeves and support disks for them.

There are also universal pullers and those designed for a specific car brand , which must be taken into account when purchasing.

A correctly selected product will help you easily cope with difficult work, since the silent block is quite firmly fixed in its seat and sometimes it takes a lot of effort to remove it.

Depending on the type of part (whether it is an element of the front suspension, stabilizers or fastening of torque rods) installed on a car or truck, a puller for removing silent blocks - elements that reduce rattling and noise when the vehicle is moving - will have its own characteristics.

However, the main task in any case remains the choice of a quality product that will serve faithfully for many years. Therefore, now we invite you to familiarize yourself with the list of characteristics that are worth paying attention to, and the list of features that are unworthy of it.

The world's first automobile repair shop opened in 1899 in Boston.

What to look for:

Daewoo Lanos suspension knocking, replacing the front arm silent block

front suspension arms are distinguished by their solid reliability and durability. If the car is driven by an experienced driver, then the Daewoo Lano's can easily take care of 100,000 (km) of mileage , and sometimes even more. Of course, levers have their weak points, they are silent blocks .

There are 2 silent blocks in the front suspension arms: front and rear. The front silent block is pressed into a large diameter hole. And the rear silent block simply fits onto your finger.

There are frequent cases when a dull metallic clang is heard from under the front suspension. Almost always, this noise comes from the rear silent blocks of the front control arms. When the car has not yet traveled its first hundred thousand kilometers, it will not be a crime to replace only one rear silent block, only on one lever.

Purpose and location of silent blocks

The word “silent blocks” comes from foreign cars; previously these elements were called rubber-metal hinges. The part is a connection of two metal tubes, between which there is a rubber insert. Silent blocks are installed in the rear and front suspension. The task of these elements is to change the angles of the wheels of the VAZ 2110. They are also the unifying parts of the suspension and dampen vibrations that appear during driving.

Important! The approximate service life of silent blocks is 100 thousand kilometers, but sometimes these parts wear out ahead of schedule. The service time depends on many factors: driving style, availability of a garage, regularity of VAZ 2110 diagnostics.

In this material, we will examine the replacement of silent blocks in the front suspension, since here they are subject to heavy loads, as a result, the rubber rubs and the tubes wear out. These VAZ 2110 parts are installed on the rear and front control arms. The joints are also used as mounts for the engine, gearbox and shock absorbers. The replacement can be done independently if you have an inspection hole and a jack.

Quick replacement of the rear silent block on the front arm of Lanos/Sens

When disconnecting the lever, there is no need to remove the wheels or put the car on stands. The lever can be safely serviced without these unnecessary movements.

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Replacing Rear Silent Blocks of Daewoo Nexia

Replacing the Daewoo Nexia rear wheel bearing with your own hands: summary, video, dimensions, numbers

The rear wheel bearing on the Daewoo Nexia is located in the rear wheel hub, which is attached to the brake drum from the inside. The rear hub bearing assembly consists of 2 open tapered roller bearings, internal (large) and external (small).

With proper operation and maintenance, the spare part will last more than 50,000 km. Reasons for failure that will require replacing the rear wheel bearing of the Daewoo Nexia:

Diagnostics of the rear bearing, signs of failure

Before you begin repairs, be sure that the wheel bearing assembly has failed; the signs are as follows:

1. Free movement of the chassis, felt by hand;

2. Noise and rumble of the rear wheel increases as speed increases;

3. Leakage of lubricant from the seals;

4. Grinding and squeaking occurs when the raceways are destroyed, the cage is deformed and the rollers fall out.

• Raise the rear of the car with a jack;
• Rotate the chassis and listen to the sound of rotation;
• Check the play by moving the wheel axially.
• The video shows the process of diagnosing and checking rear wheel bearings.

Why are silent blocks needed in the front suspension?

Some novice drivers, of whom there are quite a few VAZ-2110 owners, believe that when repairing the front suspension, you should first of all pay attention to the levers, beams and shock absorbers. Such inconspicuous and simple details as rubber silent blocks are often simply ignored. Nevertheless, it is these parts that ensure a reliable connection between the suspension arms .

Diagnostics of silent blocks

If the silent blocks are badly damaged, the wheel begins to touch the fender liner.

In order to check the condition of the front beam silent blocks, you can proceed in two ways:

When listening to the suspension work, you need to pay attention to the following nuances:

If you delay replacing worn silent blocks, the front beam may fail, and in some cases it will have to be completely replaced.

Reasons for replacement and self-installation of VAZ 2110 silent blocks

Experienced car owners, of course, know that it is the silent blocks on the VAZ 2110 that affect the wheel alignment angles. And for new car enthusiasts, this may be news, but it encourages the idea that the condition of these parts needs to be monitored.

Set of silent blocks and bushings. Article 17-21-004

When should you change?

Usually, the driver will probably guess that the silent block has failed. If a replacement is needed, discomfort while driving will tell you about it. You can feel distinct “iron” impacts and noises in the suspension. But that's not all.

If urgent measures are not taken, the VAZ 2110’s fastenings and connections will break and play will appear. The wheel alignment angles will also suffer, which obviously will not lead to any good.

Worn silent block

There are some symptoms to look out for that these rubber parts are worn out:

• When driving, the tires on the wheels squeak. Not necessarily much. There shouldn't even be a slight squeak;
• A knocking sound is heard in the wheel area. The point here is the poor rotation of the collapsing silent blocks;
• As the silent block wears out, it first becomes covered with cracks and then completely falls apart. Here only the deaf can no longer hear the knocks.

DIY replacement

Even in an ordinary garage, high-quality replacement of silent blocks is possible. To do this, you only need to have a puller, which you can make yourself, having a simple drawing. Or you can borrow it from your motorist friends.

Silent block remover

Such a device will become an assistant when removing and then further installing new silent blocks. It consists of two tubes and washers. The length of the puller legs is about 20 cm.

Some, having adapted, make do with a mandrel.

Front suspension

For the front suspension, silent blocks are provided: front beam, upper, lower arm.

Replacement for parts of the front upper arm of the VAZ 2110 occurs as follows:

• You need to jack up and secure the car;
• Remove the front wheel;
• Unscrew and knock out the support. To do this, hit the bipod with a hammer, turning the wheel out;
• Once the support is knocked out, it becomes possible to remove the upper front control arm. To do this, unscrew a long bolt from the side. At the same time they look at the axial play. If it is palpable, replacement may be warranted;
• Removing the silent tape is quite simple using a chisel and a hammer. The main thing is to accurately calculate the impact in order to avoid damage to other parts. Sometimes very “stubborn” silent blocks have to be drilled out and only then knocked out;
• You can press in a new silent block by pressing it into the socket using a smaller bushing until it sits securely there.

Replacing the silent blocks of the front lower control arms of a VAZ 2110 is a more difficult task; to complete it, you will need:

• Remove the stabilizer so that the lever can be moved;
• Unscrew the nuts holding the silents;
• Remove the rubber bushings (same as in the case of the upper arm);
• Press in new ones, and then be sure to fix them in the loaded state of the VAZ 2110.

Garage or service station

All car owners can be divided into two categories:

Each of them is right in their own way. Therefore, we have no right to reproach those who do not want to carry out repairs themselves. After all, garage and professional repair of silent blocks, like other components, has its advantages.

STO has the following advantages:

But first you need to find such a car service, which, alas, is not an easy matter. Many provide a guarantee, but when you re-apply, they do everything possible to prove that the breakdown does not comply with the terms of the guarantee. A banal trick.

Repairing your garage will provide the following advantages:

Daewoo Nexia replacement and repair of silent blocks of the rear beam. Sale of cars, used cars.

Repair of the lower arm, replacement of the ball joint, silent blocks and stabilizer strut on Daewoo Nexia

What should you think about first if you want to replace silent blocks with your own hands? Or use a puller to press out the rubber with the inner bushing and then begin to remove the outer part of the silent block from the beam eye.

Tags: replace the silent block of the Lanos suspension arm, Daewoo Lanos arm, replacing the silent block on Lanos, replacing the arm...

First, purchase or self-assemble a selection of silent block removers. If you get stuck, you can warm up the outside seat of the lever a little with a torch, just without fanaticism!

To avoid significant losses of brake fluid and save time on bleeding brakes in the future, it is better to think about these devices. And if you notice that the integrity of the silent block is damaged or the outer bushing of the silent block is torn from the rubber, then we decide how and where to replace them. Remove the lever from the car.

But, this is just my advice.

Car repair and maintenance

It’s up to you, as always, to decide whether to buy or not. With a soap solution, I think everything is clear. But you will have to go through the device in more detail.

The device for pressing out and pressing the silent block into the lever consists of: To replace it in a garage, you need to call an assistant, have a good vice and a puller. You can remove it and install it yourself and press it out on a hydraulic press for rubles at any car service center that has such equipment.

I bought four silent blocks, two rear and two front, it all cost an amount equal to rubles. Before starting the disassembly, for about 20 minutes, spray all the threads that we will unscrew with WD. Next, we lift the car and pull off the wheel. Using two 12-size wrenches, we unscrew the stabilizer strut and remove it with the same wrench and unscrew the ball nut.

Using a ball puller, we press the ball out of the fist. If there is no puller and the ball has already been changed, then you can unscrew the three bolts securing it to the lever, there is no big difference. Actually, one of them is, so to speak, grandfather’s.

How to change the rear wheel bearing on Nexia 1.5-2.0 (8 valves, 16 valves, n150)

The photo shows a diagram of the rear suspension and hub of the car:

Required set of tools for repair:

— Jack, wheel chocks;

— Keys and heads with ratchet (30, 27, 17);

Removing the brake drum and dismantling the old wheel bearings

Place the car on a level surface, remove the brakes and place supports under the front chassis.

Lanos, Nexia - replacement of beam silent blocks

This video was processed in YouTube Video Editor ()

Rear beam silent block Lanos Sens replacement No. 19

I am replacing the rear silent blocks

Installing the rear bearing in the hub of Daewoo Nexia 2 with your own hands

Adjusting the rear wheel bearings of the Daewoo Nexia (8 valves sedan and hatchback, n150)

Proper adjustment is an important criterion for wheel bearing life. The only correct method of adjustment from a mechanical point of view and according to official operating instructions is to tighten the nut to the specified torque using a torque wrench.

Step-by-step adjustment instructions

• After screwing on the locknut, tighten it by hand until it stops.
• Without putting on the cotter pin, roll the drum in both directions to distribute the lubricant.
• Using a torque wrench, tighten the locknut to 2.5 Nm.
• Roll the drum in both directions
• Unscrew the locknut 180 degrees.
• Retighten the locknut to 2.5 NM.
• The bearing assembly is now adjusted correctly. Be sure to install the cotter pin. The whole process is also shown in the video.

Selection of bearings for the Nexia rear hub: article number, dimensions, catalog numbers

As mentioned above, in the rear wheel hub there are two roller angular contact tapered bearings installed in a “spacer” arrangement. The nominal sizes and numbers of bearings are different.

internal 6-7006A (according to ISO L45449/L45410);

external 6-7703A (according to ISO LM11749/LM11710).

Degree of accuracy – 6. Modification – A (increased load capacity). The dimensions of the parts are presented in the table below.

To select spare parts, refer to the table below, which presents: manufacturers, costs, product configurations, catalog numbers (articles).

Replacing rear beam silent blocks on Daewoo Lanos

This photo report shows in detail how to replace the silent blocks of the rear beam on a Daewoo Lanos car with your own hands. This also applies to Daewoo Sens, Chevrolet Lanos, ZAZ Lanos.

It is worth noting that the replacement procedure is quite labor-intensive; we recommend carrying out this operation with an assistant. If you are not confident in your abilities, then it is better to seek help from specialists.

If you nevertheless decide to replace the silent blocks in the rear beam yourself, then you will need:

Garage with pit or lift; Mount; Screwdrivers; Hammer and sledgehammer; Open-end, socket and socket wrenches; WD-40; Silent block remover; Special wrenches for unscrewing brake pipe fittings;

The rear beam mounting bolts must be tightened with the vehicle completely on the ground.

We drive the car into the inspection hole, leave it “at speed” and install anti-roll stops under the front wheels.

Loosen the wheel bolts. We climb into the hole and unscrew, but do not remove, the bolts securing the beam to the body.

Unscrew and remove the shock absorber mounting bolts from the eye.

We take out the brake hose clamp and, using special wrenches, unscrew the brake pipe fitting. We disconnect the brake hose and tube, first squeezing it. We put a rubber cap on the end of the tube (see photos 4,5,6,7).

We disconnect the brake pipes and handbrake cables from the rear beam (photo 8,9,10).

We slightly lower the nuts securing the axle to the rear beam, after wetting the threads with oil or brake fluid (photo 11).

Changing rear beam stabilizer bushings

Annoying ringing is very often caused by wear of these bushings. When the rubber bushing wears at least 5-7 mm while driving over uneven surfaces, the stabilizer touches the beam and makes a loud, irritating sound.

Replacing the rear beam stabilizer bushings will take no more than half an hour if you have a tool and a penetrating lubricant like WD-40. The process is simple:

1. Unscrew the two bolts at the edges of the beam.

2. We knock out the stabilizer on one side by 25-30 mm.

3. We change the bushing.

4. You don’t have to throw away the old one, but move it to class=”aligncenter” width=”784″ height=”469″[/img]
5. Lubricate the stabilizer mounting area before installation.

6. We carry out the same operation on the other side of the beam.

Knocks and ringing will disappear as if by hand. The service life of these bushings, as practice shows, is no more than 85-95 thousand km .

Replacement of silent blocks of rear suspension arms

With some skill, silent blocks can be replaced directly on the car by unscrewing the bolts securing the beam to the body brackets and removing the beam eyes from the brackets, but it is more convenient to perform this work on the removed rear suspension beam (see “Replacing the rear suspension beam”).

It is very convenient to replace silent blocks with a special device (puller), but the work can be done with improvised means.

You will need: a silent block remover or a mandrel.

When using a puller, perform the following operations.

1. Before pressing out, heat the lever eye with hot air to a temperature of 50-75 oC, having previously cut two cuts B with a hacksaw (Fig. 7.6)

Rice. 7.6. Installation and dismantling of the silent block of the rear suspension arm: Fig. 7.6. Installation and dismantling of the silent block of the rear suspension arm:

1 – lever; 2.8 – nut; 3,12 – washer: 4, 11 – device; 5, 9, 15 – mounting sleeve; 6, 13 – bolt; 7 – rear suspension lever, 10, 14 – silent block. A – mark on the device; B – cutouts on the silent block

Replacing the silent block and front suspension arm cushion on Daewoo Nexia 2008

Remove the front suspension arm (see “Removing the front suspension arm”). To press out the silent block we use a cup puller. We press out in the direction from the front of the lever to the rear. We rest the puller cup against the end of the rear belt of the lever eye, and the screw washer against the end of the inner metal sleeve of the silent block . We press the silent block out of the lever eye... ...into the puller cup . Before installation, wet the new silent block with soapy water. We carry out the pressing in the direction opposite to the pressing, and the larger diameter of the metal bushing of the silent block should be facing backwards. When pressing the silent block, we rest the puller cup against the end of the front belt of the lever eye . After installation, the silent block should be positioned symmetrically along the length of the eyelet. To replace the lever cushion... ...remove the bracket from it . By striking the end of the cushion with a hammer... ...we knock it off the lever axis . Before installing a new cushion, wet the surface of the lever axis and the inner surface of the cushion with soapy water. We fix the front suspension arm in a vice. Before pressing, we orient the cushion so that when installing the lever, the flat side of the cushion is parallel to the seating surface of the underbody... ...and the installation recess on the outer side of the cushion is directed towards the outer edge of the lever (shown on the pressed cushion) . By striking with a hammer through the spacer at the end of the cushion, we press it onto the lever axis . daewoo.biz

This is interesting: We build and install direct flow with our own hands