Ground clearance of VAZ 2107, increasing ground clearance of Lada 2107 with reinforced springs, spacers (video)

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Increasing rear suspension stiffness

In order to tune the rear suspension of the VAZ-2107, you need to replace several components. Namely: springs, shock absorbers, silent blocks and rubber bumpers.

In order to make a balanced modification of the rear suspension of the VAZ-2107, you need to take into account the lift height and spring length. You may have to remove a few threads to get the correct fit. The springs need to be changed to more powerful and stiffer ones. Usually good for replacing springs from a Niva car.

The next step is to replace the shock absorbers. The main thing here is to meet the requirements. It is better to look for shock absorbers with a fixed rod, as they are usually much stiffer than their counterparts.

Even seemingly insignificant parts: bumpers and silent blocks must be replaced with more reliable and powerful ones. Because abrasion of rubber bands leads to deterioration in car control. This is immediately felt, so upgrading the chassis makes the car more reliable to use.

Ground clearance of VAZ 2107, increasing ground clearance of Lada 2107 with reinforced springs, spacers (video)

The ground clearance of the VAZ 2107 or ground clearance , as for any other passenger car, is an important factor on our roads.
It is the condition of the road surface or its complete absence that makes Russian motorists interested in the ground clearance of the Lada 2107 and the possibility of increasing ground clearance. To begin with, it’s worth honestly saying that the real ground clearance of the VAZ 2107 may differ significantly from that declared by the manufacturer. The whole secret is in the method of measuring and where to measure ground clearance. Therefore, you can find out the real state of affairs only by arming yourself with a tape measure or ruler. The official ground clearance of the VAZ 2107 is 175 mm . But this seems not enough to our drivers and the issue of increasing ground clearance on the VAZ-2107 is pressing.

Some manufacturers use a trick and declare the amount of ground clearance in an “empty” car, but in real life we ​​have a trunk full of all kinds of things, passengers and a driver. That is, in a loaded car the ground clearance will be completely different. Another factor that few people take into account is the age of the car and the wear and tear of the springs—their “sagging” due to age. The issue can be resolved by installing new springs or purchasing spacers for sagging VAZ 2107 springs . Spacers allow you to compensate for spring subsidence and add a couple of centimeters of ground clearance. Sometimes even an inch of curb parking makes a difference.

But you shouldn’t get carried away with “lifting” the ground clearance of the VAZ 2107, because spacers to increase ground clearance are focused only on springs. If you do not pay attention to the shock absorbers, the travel of which is often very limited, then independently upgrading the suspension can lead to loss of controllability and damage to the shock absorbers. From the point of view of cross-country ability, high ground clearance in our harsh conditions is good, but at high speeds on the highway and in corners, serious sway and additional body roll appear.

The main method of increasing ground clearance on the “Seven” works on all classic VAZ models. It is enough to take reinforced springs from a VAZ-2104 station wagon and install them instead of the standard ones. The main thing is not to forget to increase the shock absorbers, otherwise the length of the rod simply will not be enough for normal operation of the suspension.

Next is a video showing how the springs of the 2107 sedan differ from the springs of the 2104 station wagon.

Some simply install spacers under the springs, thereby increasing the clearance or compensating for subsidence on the VAZ 2107, further video.

Any car manufacturer, when designing the suspension and choosing the ground clearance, looks for a middle ground between handling and cross-country ability. Perhaps the simplest, safest and most unpretentious way to increase clearance is to install wheels with “high” tires. Changing wheels makes it easy to increase the ground clearance by another centimeter.

A popular type of tuning is installing a sports suspension.

To provide better handling and stability at high speed, the following changes are made to the suspension:

• gas-oil shock absorbers are installed;
• springs are lowered;
• the stroke of the shock absorber rod is limited;
• a suspension is installed with the ability to adjust ground clearance (with remote cameras or screws);
• triangular levers are mounted that change the castor - the angle of longitudinal inclination of the axis along which the wheel rotates. The larger it is, the better the car's handling.

What's the result?

To summarize the text, we urge Russian motorists to approach the structural modifications of the suspension of their vehicles wisely.

Some elements, such as the front strut brace or the additional rear beam stabilizer, are quite applicable in everyday life.

They will absolutely improve the process of traveling by car, adding comfort and safety.

The influence of other modifications may not bring a positive effect, and sometimes even worsen the initial performance characteristics of the machine.

Before installing anything additional, evaluate not only the upcoming costs, but also their feasibility.

Read on the topic, tuning a VAZ 2110 with your own hands.

DIY reinforcement

The most important indicator of body strengthening is torsional rigidity. It is measured in Nm/deg. And the higher this value, the stiffer the body is considered. In addition, this indicator is also affected by the type of car body. As you know, hatchbacks are much stiffer than 3-volume sedans, which is what our “seven” is.

Note. The number of doors is also important, as is the location of the internal combustion engine, which also greatly affects the rigidity of the body.

The body rigidity of the VAZ 2107 sedan is 7200 Nm/deg. For comparison, the Daewoo Lanos hatchback has the same figure of 10,500 Nm/deg. As for other modern foreign cars in the expensive segment, such as Alfa Romeo or Citroen C5, their body rigidity is equal to 20 thousand Nm/deg.

Spacers and braces

So, what can you do to increase body rigidity? The best method involves installing spacers and guy wires.

Installing spacers on the front pillars gives a good effect, although according to some motorists, they did not notice any real improvements. On the contrary, tests carried out more than once prove the opposite - with front struts, cornering and changing lanes on the road are much more confident, regardless of speed.

But most importantly, spacers help reduce the degree of deformation of the body, which will have a beneficial effect on the durability of the metal frame.

On the “seven” you can install stiffer (reinforced) struts, although it is believed that among VAZ models, the suspension on the VAZ 2107 is stiffer. In a general sense, this is still a soft suspension.

It is advisable to purchase spacers only from well-known companies; handmade models do not inspire confidence. Although they can be used, you just have to select them according to the “seven”, otherwise problems and difficulties may arise during installation.

And it makes sense to put spacers on the rear pillars. This will create reinforcement for the entire rear of the 7's metal frame. In principle, the “seven” does not need rear struts as much as, for example, the VAZ 2108 and modifications released later. On VAZ models, initially the rear seat is assigned the role of increasing body rigidity, but on the 2112, for example, the seats fold out, which indicates low rigidity.

What does the rear strut give to the “seven”:

1. The movement of the upper geometric points of the body will be reduced
2. Overall stiffness will increase
3. Vehicle handling will be significantly improved
4. The result will have a positive effect on the durability of the body.

In addition, this type of tuning is considered budget-friendly, which is ideal for doing it yourself, and easy to install (no complex work required). In addition, such reinforcement also looks beautiful in appearance.

Note that installing lower struts can also provide significant assistance in strengthening the body. Only this installation is considered difficult.

Amplifier behind the seat back

There is another method of rear amplification, which involves installing the amplifier directly behind the back of the rear seat. This innovation will help increase body rigidity by 20-25 percent.

Shield amplifier

To significantly reduce the play of the steering rack housing in the connecting elements, it is recommended to install a shield reinforcement for the front of the car. Such a device not only increases the rigidity of the front of the “seven”, but also reduces the amplitude of movement of the steering rack housing.

Interestingly, the shield reinforcement increases rigidity in the transverse direction twice as effectively as in the longitudinal direction. The transverse rigidity of the front end is increased by 5 times, the longitudinal rigidity by 2 times.

Subframes

Another innovation involves the installation of subframes. They generally increase body rigidity. If you manage to install a subframe model with additional support for the internal combustion engine, then the car’s suspension will also be strengthened.

Subframes tend to be difficult to install, especially on frameless sedans. We'll have to digest some details of the front part of the VAZ 2107.

TKB (tubular safety cage) is intended for professional and “civilian” use. It is better not to mess with the first ones, since they are suitable for competitions, are expensive and have a complex design. But “civilians” are just our case.

Folk way

Involves filling the holes of the side members and sills with foam. Gives a considerable gain, at least increases rigidity. The method is not expensive, but it has disadvantages: the activation of corrosion increases, since the ventilation is closed. In addition, the risk of fire during welding increases.

Video on how to strengthen the body

Let's improve the VAZ 2110

To raise the rear suspension on a VAZ 2110 you need to:

1. Put the car on the handbrake.
2. Using a jack, raise the rear of the car so that the wheels are in the air and rotate freely.
3. Remove the wheel.
4. Unscrew the shock absorber mounting bolt. To do this you will need a key “19”.
5. Get the bolt. Perform a similar operation with the opposite shock absorber.
6. Take the spacer and determine on which side the distance from the base to the first hole is greater. The side where it is larger should be directed inward. The same spacer can be installed on both the right and left shock absorbers, since these devices are mirror symmetrical.
7. Install the spacer so that a line is drawn from the center of its lower hole to the upper hole, which falls into the vertical of the rack. You can install the spacer so that it is not adjustable in height by screwing the shock absorber into a single hole.
8. By unfolding the spacer, you can adjust the suspension height by screwing the strut into the upper or lower hole, but the device will then need to be placed on the opposite rear shock absorber.
9. When installing a spacer on an eye, it is important to install a bolt spacer so that the mechanism does not break during operation. You don't need to tighten the bolt too much, just make sure it fits snugly and doesn't wobble.
10. Install the strut mounting bolt into the holes in the spacer and shock absorber. The height can be adjusted by selecting the top or bottom holes.
11. Also install a spacer on the opposite shock absorber.
12. Adjust the rear brake pressure regulator by unscrewing its mounting bolt. Next, you need to move the bracket with something until the distance between the lever and the spring becomes 2 millimeters.
13. Check the functionality of the brake system. When braking hard at low speed, the rear axle should lock a little later than the front. If the rear wheels brake much later, then you need to reduce the distance from the lever to the mounting spring, and if it is too early, increase it.

Higher, and higher, and higher: how and why to raise the car body with spacers

Looking at the cars that drive around Russian cities, you might think that all the car manufacturers have colluded and are producing cars of the wrong height. How else can we explain the fact that a huge part of our population has a desire to either lower the car or raise it to an unattainable height? Let’s put aside the questions of lowering for now and talk about how and why car enthusiasts lift their cars with spacers.

What is clearance?

If you think that a car's ground clearance, also known as ground clearance, is the distance from the lowest point on the bottom of the car to the supporting surface (road surface), then you are mistaken... This lowest point is not sought for measurement over the entire area of ​​the bottom of the car, but only on its so-called “central part”. The concept seems vague, but there are simple formulas for calculating it. There is no point in delving into them. For ease of understanding, the “central part” of the average sedan, used to determine ground clearance, looks something like this (marked in red):

As we can see, many points of the lower part of the body (suspension elements in the wheel area, marked with arrows, mudguards, sill plates, muffler tips and some others) are not taken into account when determining ground clearance and can (and do turn out to be!) noticeably closer to the asphalt than that point , which is taken as a reference when determining the official value of ground clearance. And if you consider that the factory clearance figures for foreign cars are most often valid only for an empty car, without cargo or passengers, then you shouldn’t be surprised when a city car scrapes its bottom on a completely harmless dirt road on the way to the country.

As a result, many car owners, who are not ready to buy an SUV or at least a crossover, seek to “raise” their sedan in order to make it more versatile. By installing tires with a larger diameter from the list of sizes allowed by the manufacturer, an honest centimeter and a half height is gained, however, purchasing new wheels is expensive, and some sizes are even rare. Therefore, the method of raising the body with spacers has gained significant popularity. Let's look at its features, pros and cons.

Spacer design

Spacers are divided into front and rear, differing in design. For a full “lift”, necessary to increase the vehicle’s cross-country ability off asphalt, all four are installed. But sometimes they make do with a pair of rear ones for partial lifting, which is usually required when there are frequent suspension breakdowns and the bottom touches uneven roads from carrying heavy loads in the trunk or three passengers on the back seat.

Front spacers (we are talking about MacPherson suspension) are installed between the shock absorber strut support and the body. They are rings made of hard plastic or aluminum. Rear spacers are installed between the body and the spring of the rear axle or beam. They look like “steering wheels” made of dense rubber or polyurethane with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the spring.

What does a spacer change?

A spacer mounted above the A-pillar mount raises the body above the A-pillar, thereby increasing the angle of the lower A-arm. As a result, the body and those “clinging” parts that were actually lower than the official ground clearance figures (sills, bumper edges, mudguards, etc.) “rise” above the road by the size of the spacer (value “B” in the picture). It is important to note that the position of point “A”, located on the lever in the area of ​​the ball joint, does not change. Where you would have caught a stump or cobblestone under the lever on a non-lifted car, you will catch it on a lifted one. The lift of point “A” can only be increased by installing wheels of larger diameter.

The picture above is of the front axle of the car. In the case of the rear axle, everything is not so clear. No, if the rear axle also has an independent suspension - the same MacPherson strut or multi-link - then the effect of increasing the ground clearance will be exactly the same as in the first case. However, if the rear of the car has a “cart design” (a U-shaped torsion beam or a continuous drive axle), then the effect of increasing ground clearance does not occur even in the central part. The body is raised above the bridge, and the gap between the bridge and the road remains unchanged.

Other engine modifications: intake and exhaust

If you take into account the recommendations of experts, in order for the engine to turn out to be resourceful, you should not strive to increase its volume beyond the 1.6 liter mark. An increase in volume above this figure will mean that the engine becomes “heavier” and spins less intensively.

The next step will be to upgrade the exhaust ports and valves. The channels are polished and the valves can even be replaced. For example, a suitable option is selected (it can also be from a foreign car), after which the valve stems are processed to the dimensions for a VAZ engine.

The valve plates should also be processed at the same time. It is important to adjust all valves according to weight. Separately, it is worth approaching the issue of installing the camshaft. In order for the engine to pull well from the bottom and at high speeds, it is optimal to select a camshaft that provides high valve lift. At the same time, a split gear is also required for precise adjustment of the valve timing.

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So, what are these savings?

Let's assume the mileage per year is 20,000 kilometers, fuel consumption is 10 liters per 100 = 2000 liters per year. A liter of 92 gasoline costs around 43 rubles. Well, the arithmetic is simple, subtract 400 liters of gasoline and the savings are around 17 thousand rubles per year. And so, I’ll move on to the specifics of what I personally did.

My dad gave me a VAZ-2107 with a mileage of 23,000 kilometers and the consumption was around 10-11 liters in the summer on a combined cycle. Engine 21067 with Nivov head, injector, 1.6.

Specific actions to reduce consumption:

1. Removing the cylinder head and grinding in the valves is a very important undertaking.

It is absolutely necessary to do this, because if the valve does not seal the cylinder, then the required compression is not created, which entails a decrease in efficiency and less useful work with the same amount of injected fuel. Flow increases to compensate for losses.

The main options for reducing clearance

The first option, which is considered the most economical, is to shorten the standard springs. You can do this yourself or, if you don’t have the necessary tools and skills, entrust it to a novice specialist. This operation can be performed without removing the spring. It is important to remember that the springs are shortened by a different number of turns (front, for example, by two, and rear by three). This is due to the fact that the weight of the machine must be distributed evenly.

The advantage of this method is low costs. As for the disadvantages, these include the risk of breaking both the spring and the shock absorber. Another option is to purchase and install shortened springs. Such springs are often called sports springs. The main costs here are associated with the purchase of finished parts. The advantages of this method include the fact that you can return everything to its place at any time (after all, the standard springs are not shortened). In addition, you can carry out such an operation yourself. The only thing is, upon completion, you need to contact specialists to perform camber/alignment work.