How to change the fuel pump on a VAZ 2114, diagnostics and replacement

Models of fuel pumps for VAZ 2114/2115 cars

VAZ 2114/2115 cars are equipped with 1.5 cm3 and 1.6 cm3 gasoline engines with a distributed injection system. A submersible electric fuel pump is used to supply fuel. It is part of the fuel module installed at the top of the gas tank (under the rear seat). In addition to the pump, the module includes a fuel accumulator (cup), a coarse filter and a fuel level sensor with a float.

To supply fuel in VAZ 2114/2115 cars, a submersible electric fuel pump is used

The VAZ 2114/2115 fuel pump is a conventional DC electric motor in a sealed housing with a one-way valve at the outlet. An impeller of a special shape is located on the electric motor shaft. Its rotation ensures the fuel supply.

The fuel module includes a fuel pump, a fuel accumulator, a coarse filter and a fuel level sensor

The fuel pump is powered from the vehicle's on-board network. The electrical circuit of the pump, protected by a fuse, is closed using a separate relay.

Electric fuel pumps for VAZ cars are produced by both domestic (Utes, SAAZ, Pekar) and foreign companies. The latest modifications of the VAZ 2114/2115 are equipped with BOSH pumps, which are distinguished by their high reliability, long service life and relatively low price.

Design of the electric fuel pump VAZ 2114/2115

Catalog numbers of standard fuel pumps for VAZ 2114/2115:

2112–1139009–12 — for engines with a volume of 1.5 cm3;
2112–1139009–01 — for engines with a volume of 1.6 cm3;
580453453 (BOSH) - for engines with a volume of 1.5 and 1.6 cm3.

These models differ in operating pressure. The former are capable of creating a pressure of 2.8–3.2 kPa in the fuel system, the latter - 3.7–3.9 kPa. BOSH fuel pumps are rated at 3.5 kPa.

Wiring

If the fuel pump fails, first of all, you need to make sure that the circuit was installed correctly. Three wires lead to its electric drive:

one - to the fuel sensor;
two - to the contacts of the motor itself.

A regular 12 volt light bulb will help you figure this out. It is connected to the power wires. When you turn on the ignition, it will light up - this means that the electrics are supplied correctly.

The lamp also checks the performance of the motor itself. In this case, it is connected to the protruding terminals of the drive, and its short-term flashing will indicate in this case a malfunction of this element.

The fuel pump mass is located under the steering wheel, not far from the handbrake handle. It is its use that most often leads to wire breakage. In this case you will need:

remove the cover;
clean the ground contacts;
attach it to its original place.

There is also a relay that controls the operation of the fuel pump. It is necessary so that when the ignition is turned on, operating pressure is immediately formed in the fuel supply system

It is important not to get confused, because there are three relays, and only one of them is related to the pump

This element cannot be repaired and is simply replaced with a working one.

Symptoms of a problem

A malfunction of the fuel pump of VAZ 2114/2115 cars can be diagnosed by the following symptoms:

when the ignition is turned on, there is no sound of the pump running;
the engine does not start or starts with difficulty;
the power unit is unstable at idle, the speed “floats”;
“dips” appeared during acceleration;
the motor has lost power.

The same signs also appear when other elements of the fuel system malfunction.

Before you begin diagnosing or replacing the fuel pump, you should make sure that:

the fine fuel filter is not clogged (it is changed every 7 thousand kilometers);
the injectors and fuel pressure regulator are operating normally;
The sensors for mass air flow, throttle position, and oxygen quantity are working properly.

If the detected malfunction is accompanied by the lighting of the “CHECK” lamp on the dashboard, you should set the error code and decipher it.

The fuel pump relay does not turn on.

If the fuel pump does not work, then first of all you need to check the attraction of the main relay and the fuel pump relay. If the main relay does not click, then it is necessary to check its switching circuit and its serviceability. How to do this is described in the article the main relay does not turn on,

In the case when the main relay turns on, but the fuel pump relay does not, it is necessary to check the power at pins 85 and 86. When using a test lamp, its current consumption should not exceed 0.25A, otherwise damage to the controller may occur. If the control lamp does not light up on any terminal, then the relay is not receiving power. This may be caused by a blown fuse or a broken power cord.

In the case when the lamp burns brightly on one terminal, and at half-glow on the second, and the relay may be activated, you should remove the relay from the socket and connect terminals 85 and 86 with a test lamp. When the ignition is turned on, the control lamp should light up and go out after approximately 20 - 30 seconds. If the lamp lights up and there is poor contact in the connection between the block and the fuel pump relay. If the lamp does not light up, there may be a break in the wire connecting the relay to the controller or the controller itself may be faulty.

I went to the region and came back with a bolt. In general, the fuel pump does not pump. The rudder works, I changed the front, but the power supply does not go to the used one. Out of 100 turns of the ignition key, the b/n swung a couple of times. Can anyone tell me what? Thank you

No contact . have to search.

could it be that the mass where the handbrake fell off? it just arrived

Yes, you need to look at all contacts.

Does the starter turn over and when you turn on the ignition does the check light come on?

yes, and the starter turns and the check light comes on, it even starts for a few seconds, how long the pump managed to pump, you see.

There was such a case.” The immobilizer “woke up” and cut it off. But it wasn’t the fuel pump that went out, but the spark disappeared. Also, if you quickly turned the key, it tried to grab hold, and then stalled. After half a second. If the fuel pump even slightly tries to pump, then the wires to it are normal. Either it died, or the RTD or ECU is messing up like that.

1. Check the presence of power at the changeover contacts of the relay, after them. 2. Ring the chain to the fuel pump, if you suspect, throw a makeshift bar to the fuel pump.

from personal experience. There was a case on the demo, the relay got hot and melted the case. The plastic flowed under the contact group, so there was no contact. Those. there are different and unexpected options

Checking the electrical circuit

At the beginning of the diagnosis, you should check the electrical circuit of the fuel pump. To do this you will need:

car tester (multimeter);
crosshead screwdriver;
two pieces of wire about 2 m long.

Checking the electrical circuit is carried out in the following order:

Turn on the ignition without starting the engine. When the key is in the first position, a click should be heard, characteristic of turning on the relay, followed by a slight whirring of the pump electric motor. If there is no click, the relay is faulty or is not receiving power. If there is a click, but no buzzing, the wiring coming from the relay or the pump motor itself is faulty.
Under the glove compartment, find an additional mounting block consisting of three relays and three fuses. The pump relay is located in the middle, and the fuse is located to the left of it. Remove the fuse from its socket, test it with a multimeter, and if the result is negative, replace it. When replacing the fuse, please note that it is rated for a maximum of 15 A.

The relay and fuse for the fuel pump on the VAZ 2114/2115 are located in the mounting block under the glove compartment.

Set your multimeter to voltmeter mode. Connect one probe of the device to the relay terminal to which the pink wire fits, and the second to the car body. Turn on the ignition. The device should show the on-board network voltage in the range of 11.7–12.4 V. If there is no voltage, the problem may be a broken wiring or a malfunction of the ignition contact group. In this case, it is better to contact an auto electrician. If power is supplied, check that the relay is working. With the ignition on, use a screwdriver or a piece of wire to close the contacts to which the pink and gray wires go. This closes the circuit bypassing the relay. If the fuel pump works, replace the relay.
Be sure to check the connection of the pump's negative wire to ground. Often it is the lack of “ground” that causes interruptions in the operation of the fuel pump. Remove the plastic trim from the center console near the parking brake handle. Under it there is a “negative” wire of the pump, screwed to the body with a self-tapping screw. Unscrew it, clean the contacts, screw it back and repeat the test.

The ground wires of the fuel pump are attached to the body with a self-tapping screw

Then check the fuel module. Remove the rear seat, peel back the carpet and sound insulation. Unscrew the two screws securing the gas tank flap and disconnect the electrical connector on the fuel module cover. Using two wires, supply power to the pump directly from the battery. If the pump works, the wiring is faulty; if it doesn’t work, the pump itself is faulty.

Wiring contacts

The wiring system goes to the fuel pump in the number of three wires: positive, negative and gasoline level indicator. The cause of a fuel pump failure may be a simple power failure in the wiring. If everything is normal with the pressure, then we check the contacts.

We take a simple 12 V light bulb and attach its wires to the positive and negative contacts on the external connector of the fuel pump, respectively. We turn the ignition: the light blinks, there is contact. Then you need to dig deeper - look at internal contacts.

Pressure check

If the pump is working properly, but the engine begins to operate intermittently, you should check the fuel pressure in the system. For this you will need:

pressure gauge (can be a tire gauge with a measurement limit of 5–7 kPa);
petrol-resistant hose with a diameter of 10–12 mm and a length of 50–80 cm;
two clamps for a hose of the appropriate diameter;
Phillips screwdriver;
nipple cap;
dry rag.

In addition, the presence of an assistant is desirable.

The verification procedure is as follows:

In the engine compartment on the engine fuel rail, locate the pressure measuring fitting (on the right side).
Remove the plastic cap (plug) from the fitting.

Find the pressure fitting and remove the cap from it

Using the nipple cap, unscrew the spool valve from the fitting. When unscrewing the spool valve, fuel may spray out of the fitting. To remove it, use a dry cloth.

When unscrewing the spool valve, fuel may spray out of the fitting.

Place one end of a gas-resistant hose onto the fitting and secure the connection with a clamp. Connect the other end of the hose to the pressure gauge fitting and also tighten the clamp.

Connect the pressure gauge to the fitting using a hose and clamps

Ask an assistant to turn on the ignition. Wait a few seconds and watch the meter readings. If the pump is working properly, the pressure gauge should show a pressure of 2.8–3.2 kPa for engines with a volume of 1.5 cm3 and 3.7–3.9 kPa for engines of 1.6 cm3. If the pressure is noticeably higher, the pump is faulty.

Wiring

If the fuel pump fails, first of all, you need to make sure that the circuit was installed correctly. Three wires lead to its electric drive:

one - to the fuel sensor;
two - to the contacts of the motor itself.

A regular 12 volt light bulb will help you figure this out. It is connected to the power wires. When you turn on the ignition, it will light up - this means that the electrics are supplied correctly.

Operating principle of an electric fuel pump

The functional work of the fuel pump is to supply fuel to the injectors. For normal operation of the injectors and creation of the required pressure, the supply of gasoline must begin before the engine starts.

The electric fuel pump is turned on by a special controller using a relay. When the ignition key is turned to the “starter” or “ignition” position, the controller instantly energizes the fuel pump switch relay, and as a result of the created pressure, fuel is supplied to the injectors.

Electric fuel pump VAZ 2114

If the engine does not start running within a few seconds, the controller turns off the relay until the engine is cranked again. After scrolling, the controller turns on the relay again, determining the start of rotation using the reference signal from the crankshaft position sensor.

Diagnostics of electric fuel pump faults

The service life of the electric fuel pump on the VAZ injector is quite long, but everything has its limit. Poor fuel quality primarily damages the discharge part of the unit.

An uncorrected fuel pump in a car prevents it from working at full power, and the engine also becomes unstable at idle. Due to a lack of fuel, when trying to start, the engine begins to “sneeze”, starts with difficulty for a few seconds or does not start at all.

Another available method is to check the pressure in the fuel system with a pressure gauge while the engine is running. But it is recommended to first replace the fuel filter in order to avoid distortion of the device readings.

A decrease in performance also indicates a pump malfunction; this is easy to notice when driving in 3rd or 4th gear. If, when you press the accelerator pedal, the car reacts with dips or does not react at all, most likely the fuel pump on the VAZ 2114 has failed.

Self-replacement of the electric fuel pump

The fuel pump on a VAZ injector, as a rule, cannot be repaired, however, like most electric fuel pumps.

Do-it-yourself is not particularly difficult and does not require special equipment and tools. You will need:

Phillips screwdriver;
ratchet with head at 7 and 10;
key to 17.

The unit is replaced in the following sequence:

The rear seat is removed. To do this, remove two plugs and, using a ratchet with a 10-mm head, unscrew the two bolts. After removing the seat, a slot in the sound insulation should open in the shape of the letter P. The fuel pump cover is located under it.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the cover, revealing the upper part of the fuel pump module underneath.
The wiring harness suitable for the module is disconnected.
Now you need to relieve the pressure in the power system. To do this, the car engine starts and runs until the fuel from the line is completely used up, that is, until the car stalls.
The battery turns off.
Using a 17 key, unscrew the fuel line tubes one by one.
8 nuts are unscrewed around the perimeter of the clamping ring. To do this, use a ratchet with a 7-mm head. The pressure ring is removed.
The fuel pump module is carefully removed from the gas tank.

After the fuel pump module is removed, it is possible to either completely replace it with a new one, or replace only the electric fuel pump itself, but this will require disassembling the fuel module.

Disassembling the fuel module and removing the electric fuel pump

The block of wires is disconnected from the connector of the cover and the fuel pump, then the sensor indicating the fuel level is removed. To do this, two latches are pressed out and the sensor moves along the grooves towards the cover.
The drain pipe is separated from the body; to do this, you need to slightly pry it with a screwdriver. Then the four housing latches are pressed out one by one and the module cover is removed along with the fuel pump.
The mesh filter is carefully pryed off with a screwdriver and removed. The lock washer is removed from the installation hole.
The plastic latch is pressed out with a screwdriver and the pump is pushed out of the holder with your finger.
The plastic corrugated tube is removed from the pump nozzle. To make removal easier, it can be heated over steam.
Reassembling the fuel pump is done in the reverse order.

After installation, you should connect the battery and start the car briefly to check for gasoline leaks from the connections. If there is no leak, it means that the replacement of the electric fuel pump in the VAZ 2114 injector fuel module was successful.

Design and operating principles

The gasoline pump is located inside the car’s gas tank and is part of the so-called fuel module, which, in addition to the pump itself, also includes:

float sensor responsible for monitoring the fuel level;
chamber for fuel intake;
coarse filter made of mesh material.

The pump itself is equipped with an electric motor that drives a membrane, which performs reciprocating movements and, thereby, pumps fuel. For better cooling, which is required due to the constant operation of the electric motor, the pump is installed in the tank so that even at a minimum fuel level it is constantly washed with gasoline.

Fuel pump motor VAZ 2114

Missing mass or plus?

The 4's fuel pump runs on electricity. Therefore, if there is no power to the VAZ 2114 fuel pump, you need to determine where exactly the circuit is broken. After all, both mass and plus may be missing.

VAZ 2114 fuel pump power supply circuit

Car enthusiasts sometimes have a question about how to check the power supply to the VAZ 2114 fuel pump. You need to start with something simple. To do this, you need to turn the ignition key and listen for a characteristic click. It is familiar to every driver. The fuel pump always starts with this sound.

If there is no sound, you need to check the relay and fuse. They are located on the passenger side, under the side panel. To get to the electrical components, remove the plastic trim on the passenger side.

To check the fuse, you need to take a known good fuse element and put it in its place. If everything worked, then that was the reason. A faulty relay can be indicated by the absence of a click when turning the key. These electrical elements sometimes exhibit external damage that is visible to the naked eye. But, if replacing the relay did not help, then you should look for the reason further.

To understand why there is no power, you need to do the following:

Raise the back seat and find the gas filler door. It is held on by self-tapping screws;
After removing the hatch, three terminals will be visible, two of which are positive and one is negative;
We check the power by connecting the ends of both wires alternately to plus and minus. If the light is on, it means there is power. When the lamp is not lit, it is absent.

If the lamp is on and the pump is not functioning, you need to check the voltage. To start the VAZ 2114 gasoline pump, a voltage of 10 volts or more is required. Measurements are carried out by the tester in voltmeter mode.

Low voltage indicates:

Low battery. Therefore, you need to check its charge level;
Problems with the generator. But they are usually accompanied by a number of symptoms that should have been noticed earlier;
Oxidation of connectors. This can be noticed upon visual inspection. Cleaning will easily solve this problem;
Broken wiring. You will have to call it with a tester to find the location of the damage. If it is difficult to find a break on your own, you should contact a car service.

If the fuse and relay are working, the voltage is normal and there are no breaks, you should check the fuel pump. This part cannot be repaired. If it breaks, it is replaced. It also cannot be ruled out that the pump is blocked by a car alarm or similar additional equipment, if installed. It is better to entrust the inspection of such devices to an auto electrician.