The IZH Planeta-5 motorcycle model was produced by the Izhevsk Machine-Building Plant from 1987 to 2008. It represents one of the most successful examples of the domestic motorcycle industry. IZH Planet-5 combines all the developments gained from the operation of previous models, including IZ Jupiter and IZ Planet Sport.
Thanks to this, Planet-5 is still popular among domestic motorists. The motorcycle is valued for its appearance - the seat position, guards and tank look really stylish.
IZH Planet has good technical characteristics: a two-stroke single-cylinder engine with a power of 22 horsepower, economical fuel consumption - 5 liters at a speed of 90 km/h, an air cooling system, high traction at relatively low speeds - all this makes Planet-5 a quite worthy motorcycle even today.
Planet-5 can reach speeds of up to 120 km/h and copes well with off-road conditions. This model is also loved by motorcyclists because it is very easy to maintain.
Domestic bikers cannot always afford to pay several tens of thousands of dollars for a Harley-Davidson, but a used Planet-5 can be purchased for several hundred and, with some effort, turned into a completely decent bike. “Planet” is an excellent choice for those who are not chasing prestige, but value power and reliability in motorcycles above all.
It is absolutely possible to do tuning of an IZH with your own hands. All you need is some experience with motorcycles and technical skills. There are many ways to improve both the appearance of the Planet and its technical performance. Let's look at some of them.
What carburetor is used on the IZ Jupiter 5 model
IZH Jupiter 5 is the latest and most modified model in the series.
The first “fives” were transitional: facing from model 4 and a K-62D carburetor. Then, an updated version was put into production - IZH Jupiter 5-01, the motorcycle received an interchangeable lining with IZH Planet 5 and carburetors K-65D, K-68D and Jikov-2928CE. The latter was taken from the Czechoslovakian motorcycle Java-638, which had similar engine parameters to the Jupiter. Later, Izhmash presented a modified version of the Jupiter engine with water cooling. The so-called “dropsy” had the same engine power as a conventional engine, but the engine’s noise level and fuel consumption decreased. A new K-68D carburetor was also installed on it. Its feature was the new cylindrical shape and material of the throttle valve (like Jikov), which reduced its wear. Idle speed has become more stable.
Not a “hackneyed” option - Izh 2715
Dmitry has been planning to implement a tuning project based on a pickup truck for a long time. At the same time, the car had to be not only a platform for the implementation of numerous styling and tuning ideas, but also work for the benefit of the car service center, that is, transport spare parts and consumables, and serve as an acceleration “car” for employees of the auto repair center. For such purposes, a large, powerful Ford or Dodge would be quite suitable, but... more than a dozen tuning enthusiasts have already walked along this path, and repeating someone else’s decisions and moves is not so interesting. What was required was a car that, on the one hand, would be well known to everyone, and on the other, such that after the modification, people would not just pay attention to it, but would guess the features of something very familiar, dear. Well, who could lay claim to this role if not the Izhevsk “heel” Pickup IZH-2715!
Improved ride quality
The icing on the cake, and in our case the final touch of tuning, is the improvement in driving performance.
Some of the tuners approached this issue earlier when they sawed the frame of their motorcycle or raised the tail of a future crossover. For the rest, first of all, you should get rid of your original tires. Among its advantages, only wear resistance can be noted, for which you pay with your safety. It is both universal and useless. The lugs are practically useless; if they get into a mess, under normal conditions on the highway it is noisy, but relatively holds the road, turning into a killer on a wet highway. Therefore, without hesitation, we throw it away and purchase road, cross or all-purpose tires, based on your requirements. The second point is the suspension. If everything is generally clear with the rear shock absorbers, they are extremely reliable and, in addition, have stiffness settings, then the front fork does not leak only for those who have chosen a different brand. There are two ways to get out of this situation. The first is to add thicker oil. The second is to carry out a complete overhaul of the feathers and replace all parts. Both options do not last long, so the most demanding owners simply change the fork to an imported one, while the rest endure all the shortcomings of their iron horse.
Not tuning, but restoration
However, modernization is not the only way for owners of the popular model. After all, the age of many motorcycles has already exceeded two decades, which means that they can already be classified as rare. Restoring IZ Jupiter-5, restoring it and bringing it to its original state is also quite justified.
A legendary motorcycle that looks like it just rolled off the assembly line yesterday will attract no less attention than the tuned version. It’s just that how to properly restore equipment by performing qualified repairs often turns out to be much more difficult than remodeling it to your taste.
Previous entry Evolution of the Minsk 125 motorcycle Next entry Modern tuning of Voskhod 3m
Refinement and modification of suspension
The original suspension of the IZH Jupiter-5 motorcycle is reliable and has good maintainability. It is not difficult to restore it, but better results can be obtained by making some changes to the design.
Installation of adjustable gas shock absorbers. Today on sale it is not difficult to find gas shock absorbers with suitable parameters that can be used in the design of the rear suspension for tuning IZ Jupiter-5. Ideally, you can improve ride comfort and improve the stability of the car on the highway.
Replacing the front fork. This is also possible, but most likely will require reworking its fastening.
Installing another handlebar is not prohibited if it does not worsen the ergonomics of the rider's seat.
Do-it-yourself engine tuning for IZH Planet 5
Having figured out what the tuning of the IZH Planet 5 motorcycle will look like, the rider may find the power insufficient. So it is, because the factory ones are 20 - 25 hp. The original engine is enough for tight streets, but on the highway the engine stops the speedometer at 120, beyond which it is quite difficult to get out. That is why, the next step is to tune your engine. The first step is to conduct a complete audit of the main elements that affect power: ignition, air filter, carburetor, exhaust. 50% of success lies in the correct setup and maintenance of these “capricious” motor components. If everything is in order, but there is still not enough power, then there are two further options:
- The first is modification of existing units;
- The second is a comprehensive tuning of the IZH Planet 5 engine with replacement of parts.
The first option is suitable for those who are trying to maintain the factory condition of their bike. Then, to drive a little faster, you can clean the exhaust, which inevitably becomes clogged with oil residue. The next step may be to install higher flow jets on the carburetor. At the same time, we inspect the filter element; it should fully cope with its task; monitor the oil level. The last item will be replacing the spark plugs and fine-tuning the ignition. With the right approach, you can get the most out of your engine. The maximum speed will not increase, but the engine response will definitely improve. Some models have a “traction” drive sprocket with a large number of teeth; if you replace it with a “high-speed” one, you can add at least 10 km/h to the maximum speed. Riders who are primarily concerned about the sense of speed should prepare to study a lot of specialized literature, because in order to noticeably improve the engine's power, its main components will have to be replaced. It’s worth starting with an audit of the cylinder-piston group. It is best to immediately replace the crankshaft with bearings, connecting rod and piston with rings with analogues from Japanese models. New spare parts will be stronger and lighter than the old IL Planet 5 tuning will significantly improve the engine, allow it to spin up more easily and preserve its service life. Next we replace the intake system, this is a new, more efficient carburetor. Behind it is installed a low-resistance filter and another important intake element - a reed valve. The exhaust should also be replaced. Only part of the knee will remain from the old spare parts, and a special resonator will be welded behind it (diagrams with dimensions can be found on the Internet).
Due to the characteristics of 2T engines, the exhaust cannot be direct-flow; it must provide a reverse impulse, which will prevent the air-fuel mixture from splashing out of the combustion chamber. After the resonator, a muffler is installed, which in general may be absent if you prefer a loud roar of the engine. Last but not least is the ignition system. It is better to immediately replace it with an electronic one, because the contact one almost always gets lost and has to be adjusted very often. The electronic system eliminates the need for regular inspection of the mechanism and allows you to maintain the power and torque curve at any speed.
Engine tuning
The two-cylinder two-stroke engine with a working volume of 347.6 cubic meters was installed on the motorcycle. see most often has air cooling. The number of models released in recent years of production that used liquid cooling is negligible. The power that the engine develops is 24 hp. With. – can be increased by making some simple modifications:
- Increase the compression ratio by removing about 1.5 mm from the adjacent plane of the block head. But this will require switching to fuel with an octane rating of AI-95 and making changes to the design of the crank mechanism. First of all, replacing the crankshaft bearings. You will also have to select spark plugs with a different heat rating.
- Replacing crankshaft bearings. There is an opinion that only high-quality imported bearings can cope with increased loads. In fact, domestic developers have installed bearings with a large margin of safety. If you manage to purchase high-quality Russian analogues, they will do the job perfectly. Trying to change the size of the crankshaft journals is simply harmful. The thickness of their hardening layer is small and when more than 1 mm is removed from the surface of the journal, the service life of the part will sharply decrease.
- Replacement or modification of pistons. The stock parts aren't that bad. Don't rush to look for a replacement for them. To increase power, it will be enough to lighten the pistons by removing casting flash and excess material from them. Parts should be carefully adjusted according to weight. It is desirable that the difference does not exceed hundredths of a gram. Such simple engine tuning will be more effective than installing a zero-resistance air filter or a direct-flow muffler. Although it is, of course, possible to install forward flow on IZ Jupiter-5.
- Installing another carburetor. If possible, it's worth shelling out for a good Mikuni carburetor. Don't go for a large diffuser size. The standard diameter of 32 mm will be quite sufficient. But it’s definitely worth removing the protrusions on the intake and exhaust manifolds and polishing the internal channels of these parts. This will not only provide an increase in power, but will also help reduce fuel consumption below five liters.
- Replacement of the ignition system. Installing BSZ on IZ Jupiter-5 only makes sense if you intend to use imported components. Most likely, the quality of domestic components will reduce all the advantages of the contactless ignition system to zero and the rework will not give the desired result.
Do not forget that increased power will improve the acceleration dynamics of the motorcycle, but will not provide a significant increase in speed. To increase speed, you will have to change the transmission gear ratios, selecting different sprockets for the gearbox and rear wheel.
Cafe Racer
The style largely repeats the previous one, because it consists of giving the motorcycle an appearance similar to the British models of the 60-70s. A distinctive feature of such motorcycles is the special shape of the seat and tail. For our modification model, we will have to work on the rear part and replace the tank with a more streamlined one. You will also have to change a number of details in general, these are:
- round mirrors;
- one round device instead of a panel;
- monochrome, dim color of the main elements;
- no stickers;
- an abundance of chrome parts (switch feet, turn signals, possibly fenders).
Arcs and cells
I consider bars and cages to be the most effective means of protecting a motorcycle. For a second, the bars, depending on the design, save not only the motorcycle, but also the driver’s legs. Protective covers or sliders will not allow the rider to remove his feet from under a fallen motorcycle.
Of course, most of the arches are quite bulky, which is why they are not favored by supporters of high-speed models and motorcycles with a lot of plastic. Arcs are the choice of road workers or choppers. Moreover, there is room for installing additional options, such as running boards, for example. Who doesn’t want to stretch out their numb legs on a long journey?
Cells are more universal in their purpose. The fact is that the arches load the front part of the motorcycle and sometimes look awkward. Cages are gaining popularity among urban motorcycles as a means of additional protection and as a way to tune your favorite machine. The cage can be installed on different classes of motorcycles, except that they will look ridiculous on choppers. The bright color of the cage gives it an original look; some even manage to combine them with plastic.
Due to their design, both the arcs and the cells distribute the impact energy over their entire area and, of course, this is reusable protection. Recently, it has become important to supplement cells with sliders. An interesting solution, because the cage itself is quite expensive, and repainting it after a fall will not be easy, but replacing the slider on it is welcome.
Such protective equipment is not difficult to purchase, and you can install it yourself. It is logical that both the choice of equipment for the class of motorcycle and the choice of protection for the motorcycle itself should be correlated with your travel plans. Sliders will be completely out of place on heavy choppers or road bikes; at most, place them on the steering wheel or wheel axle, but the cages on them will be just as funny. Just imagine some V-Twin, say my pink dream - Boulevard, chained in a cage? Laughter and nothing more, Michio Suzuki (founder) would throw a wrench at someone who would do that. It would be no less funny to install roll bars on a sportbike. Firstly, you still need to try, and secondly, it will have a catastrophic effect on the balance and controllability of the motorcycle.
Therefore, when choosing protection for your motorcycle, focus not only on the price, but also on the ease of installation/disassembly, how the new product will fit into the system of your motorcycle and how much it will affect handling.
Specifications
The middle class of the IZH Planet 2 model is confirmed by both the engine characteristics and the overall dimensions of the bike, which are:
- Length - 213.0 cm;
- Width - 78.0 cm;
- Height - 102.5 cm;
- Base - 143.0 cm;
- Ground clearance - 13.5 cm.
The dry weight of the motorcycle is 155 kilograms, and the wheel size is 3.25-19.
Design features
At one time, IZH Planet 2 had very modern parameters.
The “heart” of the motorcycle was a two-stroke single-cylinder 346 cc air-cooled engine, the power of which reached 15 horsepower (4.2-4.6 thousand rpm).
This unit runs on a fuel mixture of gasoline and oil, which comes by gravity from an 18-liter tank.
The brake system is drum. The gearbox is a two-way, four-speed design that transmits rotation to the rear wheel via a chain.
The softness of movement is ensured by the original shock absorption system:
- The front fork is telescopic with a spring-hydraulic shock absorber;
- The rear fork is pendulum with a hydraulic shock absorber.
As already mentioned, the Planet 2 frame is an all-metal tubular structure.
The deep fenders of the motorcycle are also made of metal, since plastic was practically not used then.
Detailed information about the IZH Planet 2 power unit can be found in the following table.
| Technical characteristics of the IZH Planet 2 motorcycle | |
| Motor | Petrol |
| Working volume | 346 cm3 |
| Bore and stroke | 72x85 mm |
| Compression | 6,7-7,0 |
| Fuel | Gasoline with oil (25:1) |
| Ignition | Battery |
| Maximum power | 15.5 horsepower |
| Maximum speed | 105 km/h |
| Fuel consumption | 5.5 liters (on the highway) |
Correction of motorcycle appearance
Changing your appearance can happen in different ways. Among the most common:
- Fairing installation.
- Replacing the fuel tank.
- Seat modification.
- Motorcycle painting.
Fairing installation. This is the first thing that many lovers of modifying the appearance of motorcycles undertake. Although it is possible to cope with such a task, it should be recognized that the development of such components is a complex task that requires specific skills. The enterprises employ entire groups of specialists engaged in the design of fairings.
A person who does not have specific skills, despite all his talents, will most likely receive a result of dubious quality. The surface of the fairing will be uneven, which is clearly visible in the 5 photos posted online illustrating Jupiter tuning. The aerodynamics of the motorcycle may not improve, but worsen. Take all this into account before you decide to start making and installing a fairing.
Replacing the fuel tank is a completely justified decision. But you shouldn’t try to make a complex part yourself. This is not an easy task even for enterprises with special technological equipment. It’s smarter and easier to choose a ready-made fuel tank from some other motorcycle model.
Seat modification. You can try to make a change to the standard structure by upholstering it with a new material like leather or a good substitute, and installing a new filler. But the original seat has a significant mass. To reduce the weight of the motorcycle, it makes sense, as in the case of the fuel tank, to select a part from other equipment.
Painting IZ Jupiter-5 is a good thing. Here you can let your imagination run wild. But the best results can be achieved if you know the laws of color combinations or consult with a professional designer. Otherwise, instead of a stylish combination of contrasting colors, you can end up with an eye-catching color scheme.
If you are interested in long-lasting paintwork, first apply a layer of high-quality primer and refuse to use nitro paint, preferring alkyd or polyurethane enamels.
Improved technical characteristics
- Engine
The Planet-5 engine is convenient for processing. Of course, owners always want to increase power. To do this, it is worth repressing the crankshaft, replacing the original bearings with bearings from the Java secondary shaft.
When disassembling, it is worth silvering the upper ring and the lower separator. After tuning the engine, its service life is reduced. So if you use the motorcycle for normal speed riding, you should not change anything in the engine, as this will greatly reduce the life of the tires
and rear clutch.
Cylinder
To increase the volume of the cylinder, cut off its upper part and bore the liner to 76 mm. After pumping the engine, the Planet can accelerate to 160 km/h.
Clutch
The factory clutch of the IZH Planet-5 copes well with normal loads. If you drive a lot and drive aggressively, you should think about replacing the clutch. Under increased load, the disks quickly fail, so it is worth replacing one of them with a thicker metal one. This will lead to a stronger compression of the springs, in which there will be no slipping and the clutch will be more difficult to squeeze.
Supercharging
Advanced mechanics can change the boost system. When tuning the IZH Planet motorcycle, do not forget to replace the air filter with a foreign one. High-quality air purification will increase the power of your “iron horse” and prevent the engine from overheating.
Piston
Lubricating the piston will increase friction between the side wall and the cylinder bore.
Thus, after spending some time and money on tuning the IZH Planet-5 motorcycle, you will get an excellent “iron friend”. "Planet" initially has good technical characteristics - excellent traction, high power, resistance to any type of road.
Add to this an affordable price, ease of maintenance and availability of the necessary parts, plus your skills and imagination - and you will get a motorcycle that will serve you faithfully in Russian off-road conditions for many years.
In addition to its decent appearance, Izh Planet 5 has excellent technical characteristics. The motorcycle is equipped with a single-cylinder two-stroke engine with a power of 22 hp. With. The fuel consumption and processing system requires a modest 5 liters. gasoline with stable driving at a speed of 90 km/h. In addition, this model of domestic motorcycle was one of the first to receive an air cooling system, which increases traction at low speeds.
The maximum speed of the motorcycle is 120 km/h. The unit performs well when driving off-road and does not require large expenses for maintenance. All this is the reason for the wild popularity of Izh Planet 5 from 1987 to the present day. After all, not every one of us can buy an expensive Harley Davidson. But many people are capable of paying 5–6 thousand rubles for a domestic motorcycle. In addition, the Izhevsk Machine Plant model is much easier to tune with your own hands, which cannot be said about the expensive American and Japanese “monsters”.
Where to begin?
Owners of foreign brands of motorcycles always have the opportunity to use a catalog with ready-made tuning solutions. Those motorcyclists who purchased Planet-5 should roll up their sleeves and update their car themselves, using their experience and technical skills.
Most often, the owners of Planet-5 change the appearance, main components and some assemblies. Many owners begin tuning an IZH motorcycle by converting the muffler .
Installing chrome “cans” will give the motorcycle solidity, but will make the engine heavier. In order to make the motorcycle lighter, you should remove from the frame all parts that make the structure heavier. To improve rear wheel travel, you can install long-stroke shock absorbers. Be sure to perform alignment and balancing.
Do-It-Yourself Arcs - Very Skillful Hands
Good evening!!! Has anyone tried to make arcs with their own hands? I’ve been thinking about this all day. If anyone has experience in this matter, please share. Thank you.
It’s better to buy NORMAL arcs, unless of course you are a welding and pipe bending machine master... and a lot of 3D drawing
I think that if you have access to hardware and want to get confused, then it is best to look for the owner of the TA, who will let you take the dimensions of the arches that he has. If you do not take into account all the nuances, then the arcs will simply perform their function poorly, which will reduce their feasibility to 0. In general, if it comes to real action, write about the results.
I know a man who made arches with his own hands - and did it well. True, not on TA, but I think they will not be inferior in complexity. He made several templates with corners + pipe bender + welding. Everything worked out
I’m confused. I think about this issue all the time. By profession, I’m a PM and EMTP engineer, my hands are not strong enough. I’ll try. Maybe it will work out. I want to make templates from plastic, and then on metal. all the possibilities are there.
Added (01.12.2009, 13:17)———————————————If anyone can, post detailed photos of your arcs.
Amajor, on the forum ,, bells and whistles ,, - ,, arcs ,, looked ???
There is no left side. If anyone can, take a photo
All that remains is to make a pipe bender and make the arcs by the season, a semi-automatic machine has already been purchased)
Quote (Amajor)
200?'200px':"+(this.scrollHeight+5)+'px');>If anyone can, post detailed photos of your arcs.
The arcs are not symmetrical, see last photo. Take this into account when making.
Added (09.12.2009, 12:06)———————————————
Paper - instructions for the arches. It can be useful.
transalp-club.ru
Installation of bearings and seals
We install a retaining ring in the left half of the crankcase.
Depending on the model of the main oil seal, we install a spacer sleeve in the mounting hole of the main bearing, or, if the oil seal was initially wide (there are some), we heat the crankcase and, on the inside of the crankcase, place the oil seal until it stops against the retaining ring.
My engine had a regular narrow oil seal, so I put in a bushing.
Using a mandrel, install the main oil seal into the preheated crankcase.
Quickly, before the crankcase cools down, place the oil guide washer on the oil seal. The oil guide washer has a saucer-shaped profile. We place it on the oil seal so that the concave side faces us, and the curved side faces the clutch basket.
While the crankcase has not cooled down, we press the outer race of the main bearing into it using a mandrel.
If you are going to replace the main bearings with new ones, don’t be lazy: find a sheet of iron 7-8 mm thick, cut a wedge in it for the connecting rod, pass the sheet of iron between the cheeks of the crankshaft and use a mandrel to drive the main bearing onto the axle.
This way you will protect yourself from damage to the crankshaft. The main bearing has a very high interference and fits into the axle with a very large force. It is not uncommon for people to simply knock out the axle (the axle on the planetary crankshaft is pressed into the cheek) inside the crankshaft, but they were never able to put the bearing on.
Native made in USSR 2505 KM
Story
In the early to mid-1970s, experimental development of front-wheel drive designs was carried out in Izhevsk on an initiative basis - in particular, prototypes such as the Izh-13 “Start” can be mentioned.
However, at that time this line was not continued due to lack of funding and lack of attention from industry management. By the mid-to-late decade, VAZ-e and AZLK were already developing their own versions of cars with front-wheel drive, which in those years was gaining great popularity around the world.
However, after conducting a thorough comparative analysis of various layout schemes, Izhevsk designers came to the conclusion that, provided that modern design solutions of that time were used on a rear-wheel drive car, such as MacPherson-type suspension, replacement of steel and cast iron components with parts made of light alloys and plastics, the use of elements that improve aerodynamics, and so on, the front-wheel drive design does not have a decisive advantage over the rear-wheel drive one in terms of weight, compactness and fuel efficiency of the car. The weight gain of 6-10% noted in the literature of those years when moving from a rear-wheel drive to a front-wheel drive with a transverse power unit applies only to the case of comparing then modern models with those designed 10-15 years earlier (for example, VAZ-2108 with VAZ -2106), and characterizes not so much the layout diagram as the entire complex of design solutions used in the new models as a whole.
In addition, the engines available to the designers, produced by the Ufa plant, designed for older rear-wheel drive models, themselves had large dimensions and did not allow them to create a sufficiently compact power unit for a front-wheel drive car. According to rough calculations, the use of a front-wheel drive scheme using the existing power unit would lead to a reduction in vehicle weight by no more than 15-20 kg compared to the rear-wheel drive version, which corresponds to a reduction in fuel consumption of only 0.27...0.44%, depending depending on the driving mode.
At the same time, the rear-wheel drive scheme still retained very significant advantages in terms of labor intensity of maintenance and access to units, and would allow the use of well-developed parts available in production. In addition, in the range of cars produced by the Izhevsk plant, cargo modifications occupied a large place, and for them the use of a rear-wheel drive scheme leads to increased performance indicators and is therefore highly desirable.
Therefore, the plant began work on a compromise option - a model with a modern hatchback body, but rear-wheel drive and thoroughly modernized mechanics based on the units of existing models, which also made it possible to maintain the structure of relationships with related companies.
At the same time, in terms of consumer qualities, it was planned to bring the new model as close as possible to its front-wheel drive counterparts.
The first series of Izh-2126 prototypes (“T series”) appeared in 1979.
The car was created by young designers and, with compact external dimensions, had a roomy interior for its time and class - according to the manufacturer, the distance from the accelerator pedal to the back of the rear seat in the Izh-2126 is the same as in the Volga. The external shape of the body was quite modern for those years. When designing the car, modern methods were widely used, for example, strength calculations of the body were carried out on a computer using the “finite element” method, the aerodynamics of the car were improved by blowing models at the Institute of Mechanics of Moscow State University and full-scale specimens in France using equipment.
To increase interior space while maintaining a short overall length of the car, the engine and rear axle gearbox were moved to the right - this allowed the pedal assembly and power unit to be spaced out, which reduced the length of the engine compartment and improved ergonomics. To reduce aerodynamic drag, the windshield was tilted strongly, and the sides were bent.
The gearbox from the Izh-Moskvich-412 was modernized - it received a fifth gear and a lever directly on the crankcase, without the rocker drive that was the sore spot of the 412; Instead of a worm-wheel steering system, the car received a more modern rack and pinion steering system, and the braking system was dual-circuit, with diagonal separation of the circuits.
The front suspension was initially used as a lever-spring suspension, similar in design to the “412” model, and the rear suspension was of an original design, also lever-spring, on A-shaped arms (an author’s certificate was obtained for its design, but later it was abandoned in favor of a schematic copying "Zhiguli").
Later, two versions of the MacPherson strut front suspension were developed: with triangular lower arms and with straight arms with a stabilizer bar as an additional lever - a brace; the series used the second scheme.
In addition, subsequently there were four experimental versions of dependent rear suspension with different geometries: on stamped trailing arms (similar to Opel); with trailing arms and reaction rods - with a Panhard rod (as on the VAZ “classic”) or a Watt mechanism; multi-link with longitudinal and transverse arms. The series went into production with a design close to the proven suspension of “classic” VAZs.
The car had round headlights in black “glasses” with turn signals at the corners of the front, reminiscent of the later production Izh Combi and Izh-412 after the 1981 modernization.
Due to deficiencies identified during state tests, the plant continued further development of the model.
In 1980, a modified model appeared - “series 0”. This project was significantly different from the first. On the outside, the front end was changed - now there were double round headlights in front, and the turn signals were located in the bumper.
In the O2 prototype, the body surface was radically redesigned, the main elements of which survived until mass production.
Prototypes of the O3 series were sent to (France), where, together with Izhevsk specialists, the body, bumpers, lighting and interior were fine-tuned. The technical solutions obtained as a result of this work were implemented in a series of O5 prototypes and, ultimately, went into mass production.
In 1984, a sample of the Izh-2126 “04 series” with block headlights passed state tests and was recommended for mass production.
Traditional joint tests were carried out with foreign analogues of the same class, among which we can note, say, the German-made five-door Ford Sierra hatchback.
On the prototypes of the O5 series, due to the lack of funds for development in the production of the original steering wheel and headlights similar to the headlights used on the prototypes, large angular headlights from the VAZ-2108 with original turn signals that did not fit well into the design were installed, as well as a steering wheel from the same model, which subsequently, during mass production, was replaced with the VAZ-2110 steering wheel. In general, the car quite widely used components from other cars produced at that time: front disc brakes, a fan and a heater radiator, an interior rear view mirror from a VAZ-2108, a driveline clutch from a VAZ-2106, an instrument cluster from AZLK-2141, rear brake pads from M-412.
Preparations for production proceeded slowly due to sluggish financing, however, a large amount of work was completed on the production of body dies in Japan, large molds in Portugal, the installation of an automated Komatsu stamping line, Kuka welding lines and Demag injection molding machines was carried out ", new workshops for the production of rear axles and a body welding shop were built, production at related companies was rebuilt to produce rack and pinion steering and McPherson suspension.
Meanwhile, the launch of the car into mass production in the context of a general crisis in the country's industry did not go smoothly. Relatively, production began on November 19, 1990, and preparations for mass production ended only with the launch of a robotic welding shop.
By the beginning of 1995, only about 5,000 cars were produced using the “bypass technology”, which even in their own opinion [3] .
Frame from scratch
The frame chosen for the project was quite interesting. Visually complete stock. I'm sorry, there is no photo of the frame in its original form...
Frame from the Sh-53 motorcycle (motorcycle for road racing based on the planet). I got the frame with a pendulum
I think the pendulum should be given special attention
The pendulum is on two roller bearings, 50 mm longer than the standard one. And no collective farm! There are no “bunch of washers”, welding seams a la “Uncle Vasya’s neighbor welded for a bottle.” Everything is done on bushings, the extension is done quite competently, the pendulum is reinforced with additional gussets. It is likely that the pendulum is factory-made. It's very neatly executed. The rear engine is mounted on the same axis as the pendulum. 3 mm thick plates with holes (and not on the frame and with slots, as in the factory version. How to install the engine assembled with the gearbox, you ask? But more on that later...)
Well, the rest is completely stock.
The overcooking of the frame was planned to be global, so the frame was cut and welded on a slipway so that there would be no distortion and violation of the basic geometry. It was immediately decided to switch to mono suspension. For these purposes, the pendulum was welded, a thrust frame and a mount for the lower end of the shock absorber were welded. The front end of the shock absorber is mounted in the lower part of the upper frame tube. The rear part of the frame has been shortened and reconfigured; glove compartments are not in the plans. Let me make a reservation right away: the angle of the seat tubes has not been changed. No raised tail!
All unnecessary fastenings were removed from the frame (under the side trailer, fastening the central step, rear fender, fastening the pump and the second ignition coil, etc.). All factory seams, upon closer inspection, turned out to be of good quality, but without proper processing, which I did without thinking. Double-seam welding of the frame, thorough cleaning...
I cook and clean it myself. After all, I have my own blacksmith shop and a decent set of professional tools and required professional skills. Yeah, I'm a blacksmith. The most real one. I'll tell you separately sometime)))
I clean the frame with a grinder (yes, you know, there is a compressor with a capacity of 520 l/min, there is a sandblaster, but I still can’t finish the working part with ceramic nozzles. Eh, laziness... I’ll have to warm up with a grinder and a drill).
The frame wasn't cleaned up a bit today, but that's not the point. The general concept is visible.
Soon I’ll tell you “how to assemble a monoshock absorber with a double spring.” Well, this is my version of course.
Good luck to all!
Two carburetors on IZ Jupiter
Among all the various modifications for the two-cylinder Izh, the installation of two carburetors on the motorcycle engine stands out. One for each cylinder. This is done in hopes of increasing engine power by improving the filling of each cylinder. The power does increase, but at most by a couple of horses.
Therefore, on most two-stroke vehicles there is an intake resonator between the carburetor and the filter. It is a plastic box into which part of the mixture is spat out. This device is not available on Jupiters, because there is no particular need for it due to the length of the “pants” and the peculiarities of the two-cylinder engine. While one cylinder is making its stroke, the second one sucks in the mixture from the carburetor plus the part that was reflected from the skirt of the first piston.
In addition, installing a reed valve will improve cylinder filling at low and medium speeds, and fuel consumption will be slightly reduced. The Jupiter cylinder is approximately equal to the volume of 175 cm3, so the reed valves can be supplied from sunrise 3m-01 or made from a turner according to a sample. Carburetors can also be taken from Voskhod (K-62V, K-65V) or from Java 638.
In addition to installing the valves, the pistons will also need to be modified. A hole must be made on the piston skirt on the inlet side, as shown in the figure. This is necessary in order to reduce the inlet resistance necessary for the operation of the petals.
To operate two carburetors, you will need a tap with a double and a common throttle handle for both cables. These parts can be taken from the Urals or picked up from other motorcycle models.
After installing all the parts, it is necessary to configure and synchronize the carburetors. Otherwise, overheating and wear of one of the cylinders, as well as severe vibration, may occur.
Boosting the IZH JUPITER engine
Modification of the IZH JUPITER muffler and resonator
One of the advantages of this motorcycle is that the IZH Jupiter engine
easy to
force
. Almost everyone strives to remake mufflers first. Large chrome “cans” add solidity, but “strangle” the engine. If you want to make the engine response instantaneous, change the exhaust. A tuned resonator with a separate muffling part will not only allow the engine to spin freely and “breathe” easily, but will also provide pickup at certain speeds.
For “Jupiters”
with a cubic capacity of each cylinder of 175 cubic meters. cm, tuned resonators from Kovrov motorcycles are ideal. You will need to decide what is more important - uniform traction in the middle speed range or “shot” at high speeds. If you want power in the “middle”, borrow the resonator “ZiD-200”, for a “shot” at the “top” - from the “motoball” SMB-2.
What material should the pipe be made of? To save money, look for an old gas or electric stove. From its 0.8 mm thick side walls, the entire resonator can be completely expanded. It is best to weld the exhaust pipe using gas welding, but electric welding is also possible. Make the body from a scrap of an old muffler from the “fourth” or “fifth” “Jupiter” or the “third” or “fourth” “Planet”
. Use the cylindrical part without partitions. Make the “flute” from a material that is resistant to heat, for example, from the connecting pipe of the Ural mufflers. Drill holes in it and fill the space between the tube and the body with glass wool. Leave the exhaust pipe as original. Just shorten it and weld it to the resonator, and do not secure it with a nut.
Refinement of the IZH JUPITER intake system
The next step in boosting IZ Jupiter is the intake system
.
The simplest thing is to install a carburetor from Planet-5
(K-65I) with a diffuser diameter of 32 mm. You will have to cut the intake ports in the cylinders and the pipe flange a little. To significantly increase acceleration dynamics, and at the same time achieve synchronous operation of the cylinders, two carburetors are needed. By the way, on overseas motorcycles the order of things is: how many cylinders, so many carburetors. From the standard pipe, take the flanges for attaching to the cylinders, machine a pair of aluminum bushings, and from the inlet pipe from the Planet, cut off the carburetor mounting flange. Take the second flange from the old “Jupiter” carburetor. Weld with argon or cold-weld the parts and modify the assembly until it completely matches the inlet ports in the cylinders. Fill the internal cracks (if any) with the same “cold welding” or epoxy (use aluminum powder or aluminum filings as filler). Then sand the inside surface. Which carburetors to choose? For uniform thrust up to 100 km/h, the K-65V (from Voskhod) is suitable. It is advisable to replace the nozzles, needles and main fuel jets with similar ones from the K-65D. Nowadays, separate repair kits for carburetors are also sold; they are inexpensive. Leave the fuel level in the float chamber the same.
Adjusting the carburetor of the IZH Jupiter motorcycle
Setting up Peker carburetors on the IZH Jupiter 5 motorcycle is carried out as follows. First, we check the tightness and integrity of the air filter. Then we check the serviceability of the ignition. After this, we proceed to adjustment, the algorithm is as follows:
remove the carburetor from the engine. Using measuring probes and an adjusting screw on the carburetor cover, set the distance between the lower edge of the mixing chamber and the throttle valve to approximately 1.5-2 mm. We tighten the mixture quality adjusting screw (18) completely and turn it back 1 turn; unscrew the 2 screws at the bottom of the carburetor and remove the float chamber cover. Turn the carburetor over so that the floats drop and close the fuel channel. We measure the distance from the edge of the carburetor connector to the middle of the float (press mold line). It should be 13 +1.5/-1.5 mm (see figure). If the distance does not correspond to the norm, we achieve the required length by bending the float tongue in one direction or another;
install the carburetor in place. Start the motorcycle and warm up the engine for 5-7 minutes. To make things go faster, use a fuel enricher (corrector). Using the mixture quantity screw at the top of the carburetor, set the minimum stable engine speed. By unscrewing the mixture quality screw (gradually by 1/2, 1/4 turn), we look for the moment to reduce the crankshaft speed (at first the speed will increase and then decrease). By screwing in the mixture quantity screw again, we achieve a reduction in the crankshaft speed, and using the quality screw we again find the optimal position. These steps must be repeated until the minimum stable crankshaft speed is found. Correct adjustment should also be checked by sharply turning the throttle lever. When the engine stalls when opened sharply and picks up speed poorly (dips), the mixture needs to be enriched by slightly tightening the quality screw. If, on the contrary, the engine stalls when the gas is released, the quality screw needs to be unscrewed a little. After this, use the quantity screw to set the minimum engine speed
Attention! The adjustment screws must be turned slowly and gradually by 1/2, 1/4 turns. After each operation, we wait for the engine to “adapt” to the new settings; Later, the correct adjustment can be checked by the color of the central electrode of the spark plug
Before this, you should ride a motorcycle for 10-15 kilometers on the highway. The normal mixture is a brick-colored electrode. Carbon deposits on the spark plug indicate that the mixture is too rich. While a too whitish color indicates its excessive impoverishment; When operating a motorcycle in different meteorological conditions, the mixture composition is changed by moving the position of the throttle metering needle. So, at a temperature of +30 ºС, the needle must be lowered by one division, thereby depleting the mixture. At -15 ºС the needle should be raised 1-2 notches.
A few words about setting up the Jikov-2928CE carburetor. The idle speed setting here is similar to that of the K-65. The only differences are in the location of the adjusting screws. In Jikov they are conveniently located on the side of the carburetor (the one that is screwed in at an angle is responsible for the height of the throttle valve).
The fuel level in the float chamber should be 9 ± 1 mm. Due to the design features of this carburetor, adjusting the composition of the fuel mixture to reduce the dip when opening the gas sharply is done by moving the throttle needle up (on the K-65 in this case, we turn the quality screw).
Adjustment video
To understand the basics and nuances of adjusting the carburetor of the IZH Jupiter motorcycle, we recommend watching an interesting video. The author tells in detail how to adjust the K68 carburetor on the IZH Jupiter 4 motorcycle. He shows and talks about all the nuances and features.
Reanimation - IZH 2715
The search for the car was short-lived. The copy found in the ad made a depressing impression. Through-corrosion of the body, a smoking engine, a dead suspension... But this only strengthened the desire to revive the legend, and in a new quality. While IZH was standing in the yard of a car service station, awaiting its fate, Dmitry was looking all over Moscow for new body hardware. Of the original body, only the roof has been preserved, more or less. Finding the necessary spare parts was not easy, since the car had been out of production a long time ago and the “tin” remained only in the back rooms of small shops and in the dark corners of garages. But let those who seek find.
However, buying spare parts, as it turns out, is not even half the battle. Restoring the body became a very troublesome task, since after 11 years of continuous use the car was so worn out that it was impossible to even lift it on a lift - the side members were crumpled like paper. There was nothing left to do but... recreate the car body. It took a full week of work to do everything, including painting. After the body it was the turn of the engine. When the mechanics opened the “power unit”, they experienced a real shock - slag was everywhere, and its quantity was such that it easily broke off from the engine parts and surfaces. Everything was clear - a serious surgical intervention was necessary: everything that could be replaced was replaced, everything that could be bored was bored, everything that could be ground was ground. A cylinder-piston group from a 1.8-liter engine was installed in the block, the standard carburetor was thrown into the trash, and a sports Solex was installed in its place, the cooling system was seriously modernized... In a word, the dead engine became a real power unit, without quotes.
In parallel with the engine, work was carried out on soundproofing the interior and engine compartment, laying electrical wiring harnesses, selecting sound system components and, most importantly, remodeling the interior.
How I decided to remove paint
It was necessary to have some kind of more or less durable grinder with an attachment made of Scotch Brite of suitable grain size, with Velcro on a cup with a rubber base. The surface would immediately be obtained without unnecessary scratches (although traces of metal molding and roughly cleaned welds previously hidden under paint would be visible).
Here, for example, are traces of metal molding:
Plus, the welds would have to be cleaned with a brush made of thin steel wires - also an angle grinder or a light high-speed reversible drill with such an attachment.
But instead of a so-so drill (and this is my drill in the photo and screws screws) with the money I had, I bought a semi-professional Skil grinder with a flexible shaft for 1390 rubles (790 rubles in the configuration without a flexible shaft; the flexible shaft resembles a speedometer cable in braid), I didn’t really use a single attachment from it. I asked him to sharpen an M6 bolt for a 3.2 mm collet, sawed it at the end and put small strips of sandpaper there.
This device made it possible to remove paint from the wheel rim without disassembling the wheel (without separating the rim and the wheel hub).
By the way, never clamp Chinese 3.0 mm bits with such a collet - they will turn and you will have to buy a whole set of collets (they are for different drills) in a radio parts store, which costs 200 rubles. Probably, the collet is 3.00 mm and not 3.20 mm and you need to clamp such attachments.
Included with the grinder was a pencil-shaped attachment made of diamond-coated steel. She was able to trim welds and draw on glass jars (the part with the largest diameter). These are sold in separate sets, but it’s still a shame to trim the metal with them.
You have to add machine oil to the flexible shaft of the grinder - in the place where it connects to the grinder, it then leaks out and ends up everywhere - on the floor, mask, face and clothes. It is better not to set the speed above positions 3, 4 or 5 during different operations set by the speed controller (there are 6 positions in total), since the motor in it starts to heat up too quickly at high speeds, the smell of insulation appears and you feel sorry for the sander.
Almost all the paint and rust was removed from the motorcycle with this sander. A grinder in addition to a grinder like this would be much faster, perhaps two or three days for all the parts including the frame. Some parts were cleaned by hand. It’s more pleasant to work by hand; there’s no rush like with a power tool. I would have done exactly this without a sander.
The best thing is a durable air compressor with sufficient liters per minute and air pressure capacity, and a few tools to go with it (a durable straight sander with easily replaceable bearings and a small angle sander with a rubber backing for Velcro). The rotation of the attachments in such tools simply stops and they do not get knocked out of your hands like a power tool - which often has a kilowatt of power to withstand possible overheating from prolonged use.
Crossover for pennies: test drive and off-road tuning Izh Oda
The hero of this story is IZH-2126 Oda, produced in 2002. One of our readers bought this car as an auxiliary vehicle for driving to the country, fishing and hunting. It is not very comfortable for everyday travel, so its owner drives around the city in another car. However, on active weekends, the “cross-hedgehog”, as their owners lovingly call IZH, is certainly kicked out of the stall.
Outside
Describing the appearance of the “hedgehog”, on the one hand, is pointless, but on the other hand, there are not so many of them left alive, and not every car enthusiast 20-25 years old, ask him about the “hedgehog”, will immediately remember what it is generally for the make and model.
The appearance of the 2126 is traditional for hatchbacks and, in principle, even relatively harmonious. Although a person who is no stranger to automotive design and history will easily notice in its outlines a certain “ersatzness” characteristic of Soviet cars, to which the Udmurt enterprise belonged. This car, like the Tavria, was insultingly called “the beggar’s nine” throughout its production and sales... Actually, the car’s headlights were actually borrowed from the VAZ “nine”, but all the other body elements are their own, from others “ our marks" are not suitable. The dynamic appearance characteristic of many hatchbacks is greatly spoiled by Oda’s ridiculous “sagging” rear wheel arches, reminiscent of a similar solution on the Daewoo Nexia.
Inside
The inside of the car is “waist-deep wooden.” Not IZH-2126 in general, of course, but this particular copy.
Like many cars of the Soviet and early Russian era, Oda was guilty of a terrible design of the interior plastic of the dashboard and trim. At the time of its appearance, domestic designers did not yet know how to design large plastic arrays, and the dashboard, along with the floor tunnel and everything else in the cabin, rattled, creaked and crunched like your orchestra. All connections of plastic elements suffered from fragility, curvature, and a tendency to self-deformation over time, and there was no talk at all about anti-squeak sealing of the joints.
There was no desire to bring the initially poor design to fruition, so the owner simply removed the entire Izh dashboard, floor tunnels, door trim, rear arch trim from the trunk and other decorative plastic and took it to the trash in a couple of visits. Instead, a new “dashboard” was made from plywood, then covered with “cheerful fabric” - in the sense of a light-colored carpet. The same was done with the doors.
The ease and ease in handling the car hints that its owner was clearly close to the philosophy of not giving a fuck of the famous St. Petersburg art community Mitkov, adhering to which, he simply approached the car with a hatchet and, spitting out the cigarette, cut off everything unnecessary. As a result, thanks to the style of a kind of military minimalism, we managed to achieve the main thing - to get rid of the endless “noise concert” in the cabin.
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Serious “collective farming” also covers the back row of seats. In fact, both the seat itself and its back were also removed and thrown away. Instead, a flat plywood floor appeared - flush with the trunk floor. The car became actually a two-seater. The purpose of this compromise alteration was to create a full-fledged sleeping rookery, necessary for hunting and fishing trips.
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So that a person of above average height could sleep in the car, fully stretched out, we had to make an additional removable “table” with removable legs. After moving the front passenger seat all the way forward, the “table” was placed in place of the rear passenger’s legs. As a result, the resulting sleeping place allowed me to lie on a flat surface, comfortably stretching out to my full height.
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"Cross hatchback"
Buying a rear-wheel drive Oda for nominal money, its current owner purposefully looked for a tattered and shabby copy, which he would not mind tearing and scratching against bushes and trees in the future. But at the same time, the car had to have impeccably strong sills and bottom, so as not to have to deal with expensive and completely pointless tin painting work on such a cheap car. Actually, such a copy was found for 30,000 rubles. To transform the “hedgehog” into a “cross-hatchback”, three simple measures were planned.
Clearance
340 mm
The first is the installation of a self-locking differential in the rear axle, which allows the wheels of the rear axle to connect together when slipping and row powerfully through the mud. Despite the fact that many manufacturers make self-blocks for the VAZ “classic”, they are not suitable for Oda - the bridge of the “hedgehog”, although similar to the VAZ one, has its own original design. In other words, ready-made serial self-blocks for Oda did not exist in nature until the owner of the hero of this story became concerned about the issue. He began correspondence with all Russian manufacturers of self-locking differentials, and one of them unexpectedly agreed to develop a modification for IZH-2126! For this, however, a sample was required. On the website of free advertisements, the Odovsky bridge in Chelyabinsk, where the developer was located, was urgently found, the money was transferred to the seller of the bridge, after which representatives of the self-block manufacturing company came and took it away. As a result, after a few months, the initiator of this idea received the first free copy of a factory limited-slip differential for the IZH-2126, and even a purchased bridge, which was used as a sample.
The second event is a body lift. At the front, under the pillars there were homemade polypropylene spacers 45 mm thick, at the rear - rubber spacers 50 mm, reinforced springs from the VAZ-2104 and extended shock absorbers. The lift, of course, is nonsense according to truly off-road standards, and no matter how you lift it, the ground clearance is limited by the low-hanging gearbox of the rear axle... But still, after lifting, the clearance under the sills of the raised car became equal to 340 millimeters, which is quite good in the “cross-hatchback” format .
The elevator can also be attributed to the small “cutting” that the “hedgehog” underwent - the lower “lip” about 4-5 centimeters high was sawed off from the front bumper with a grinder, reducing the approach angle.
Third, the tires are meaner and taller. The extra-budget solution was the installation of toothy AI-168U tube tires on the original 13-inch stamped wheels.
This rubber, I must say, is unique... Both in a good and a bad sense. First of all, it is unique in that it was developed in the USSR in the 60s, but for some reason it is still produced to this day, although it is hard to believe. The Altai Tire Factory is “cursed” for its production, probably as God’s punishment to atone for some of its old sins before the Almighty.
AI-168U - tires with a very high profile. With them, even on the original 13-wheel drives, the wheels are so high that the rear is only a centimeter short of reaching the front edges of the arches! Well, the main thing is that this is actually the only 13-diameter rubber that can honestly be classified as an AT class - “all terrain”.
“AIshka” makes a terrible noise and howls on the asphalt, it doesn’t hold the road well, but in the mud these old-school tires work really well!
Iron
Izh-2126 is a machine that was initially not very cleverly designed and has a lot of inherent problems. The first thing the owner did was replace the “branded” buggy Omsk five-speed gearbox with a trouble-free, Kalashnikov-like, four-speed gearbox from a VAZ “classic”. In the engineering community, Omkis are famous for their massive tendency to sudden failure due to bursting and falling apart gear hubs, despite the fact that there are no spare parts for them at all. It wasn’t worth the risk of waiting for the box to jam several hundred kilometers from home.
Articles / History Overboard and out of time: why Izhevsk Oda never entered the orbit of success Having successfully mastered the rear-wheel drive liftback Izh-combi, which we recently talked about, Izhmash designers started thinking about more progressive designs. At that time it quickly gained popularity in the world... 45184 13 20 09.11.2016
To install the VAZ gearbox, I had to trim the driveshaft shank a couple of centimeters and redo the rear cross member and the gearbox cushion - these are standard procedures when changing the gearbox on Oda. Then the owner shook up the entire suspension and the entire braking system, converting it from diagonal to front/rear and replacing the sluggish Moskvich master cylinder, vacuum brake and rear wheel cylinders with VAZ ones. The steering rack was removed and rebuilt.
And then... then the owner of the car turned up for a ridiculous amount of money with an injection engine from a Lada Four, which was installed instead of the standard carburetor “bolt-on” assembly. True, the “bolt-on” only concerned the motor - we had to tinker with its periphery. Since the Itelm control unit, which came with the engine, required two lambda probes for operation, which were not cheap, and there was no desire to weld fasteners for them into the “carburetor” muffler, I had to turn to the “shamans”. In exchange for a standard ECU, with a small surcharge, we received a rebuilt “January” ECU with optimized firmware for the classic “vasomotor”, which does not require lambdas, a knock sensor, or an adsorber. The fuel pump was taken from Volgov, external type.
Actually, as part of the owner’s hobby love for tinkering with hardware with his own hands, almost everything in the car was rebuilt. She spent a lot of energy and money... And here the question reasonably arises - in fact, what is the cost of such a decision? Wouldn't it be cheaper to buy an old but lively Niva or UAZ?
The question is correct, but the answer is simple! For 30,000 rubles spent on the purchase of the car itself, the same Niva can only be bought at a ferrous metal collection point and in the form of that very ferrous metal. And the transformation of a stock Oda into a “cross-hatchback” included only a lift (free), a self-block (free + 3,000 rubles for the services of a transport company), and new wheels (5,500 rubles). All the other above-mentioned repair and maintenance work was done by the owner solely out of love for perfectionism and had no direct connection with the transformation of the car into a “cross-hatchback”. In principle, the car, even without all this fuss, was initially quite on the move... But this is not our method, Shurik! (With)
In move
As one would expect, the highly raised body of the cross-hatchback, whose chassis even in the stock version was very far from examples of driver refinement, led to an even more significant decrease in stability and controllability. The maximum comfortable speed of the Cross-Oda in a straight line is 80-85 km/h. However, this was obvious and predictable - everything was started for the sake of advantages, of which there are also many.
Maximum comfortable speed
80-85 km/h
Speed bumps go by without braking at all, and the vibration combs that warn the wheels about an approaching pedestrian crossing are completely inaudible in the cabin, despite the absence of any hint of sound insulation.
Well, and, in fact, the main thing is off-road driving, where the car demonstrates exactly what they wanted from it! The self-locking differential quickly picks up both wheels on the rear axle when moving forward, and when moving backward - instantly, giving a short slip even when leaving the garage in reverse. The main limiter is the axle gearbox, which, in general, is quite easy to place on a hillock, after which the self-blocking abilities are useless. For this reason, the driving style of a cross-hatchback is not similar to the driving style of a full-fledged SUV. You have to jump through difficult areas straight away and under tension, like on any city “puzoter”. However, the lift, toothy tires and self-blocking still allow you to move and not get stuck.
Yes, the “cross-hatchback” does not show the results of either a UAZ or even a Niva on good tires, but, nevertheless, it surpasses in cross-country ability almost any city all-wheel drive crossover, of which the owner of this “Hedgehog” has already had to go around, get stuck, and even help pull out.
Model history
The IZH-2126 hatchback was produced at the Udmurt plant from 1990 to 2005 inclusive. Until 2000, the model was called Orbita and was produced in negligibly small quantities due to financial and organizational troubles at the enterprise. Substantial serial production actually began only in 2000, after the change of owner to IZH-Auto and the relaunch of the model under the name Oda.
Izh-2126 '1990–99
The car had rear-wheel drive or all-wheel drive, a five-speed manual transmission, 1.7-2.0-liter UZAM engines and a 1.6-liter VAZ-2106. In recent years, Oda has been equipped with injection versions of engines and “digital” dashboards from the VAZ-2110.
In the station wagon, Oda was very ugly and was called Fabula; There were also rare versions of the "Hunter" in a pickup truck.
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Only a few thousand all-wheel drive variations of Oda and Fabula were produced - they were made both by the plant itself (in a simplified version) and by the Udmurt one. The 4x4 versions, distinguished by a proprietary plastic body kit, were equipped with a transfer case built into the gearbox, and instead of manually locking the center differential, they had a limited-slip differential of the “quif” type.
Izh-2126-060 Oda 4×4 '2002–05
It should be noted that in the early 2000s, Oda became famous for a large-scale advertising campaign with the participation of the well-known TV presenter Leonid Yakubovich on TV, in the press and on various kinds of posters and banners. The key advantage of the car was the galvanized body, which many people bought into. In fact, galvanization was very ambiguous, because the advertising did not specify its volume. And on the first machines it was very small, growing gradually and slowly. As a result, the Odas of 2002-2004 resisted corrosion quite well, but the earlier ones rotted miserably, like the VAZ “classic”.
Izh-2126 Oda '2002–2005
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