Priora stove with Panasonic air conditioning does not work

The fact that the Priora stove is 95% similar to the “ten” can be seen by the catalog numbers:

1. Heater assembly (2170-8101012 or 2111-8101012-10).
2. Air flow distribution gearmotor (2170-8127100). Distributes air flow to the feet/face/windshield. Located inside the dashboard.
3. Interior air temperature sensor (11186-8128050). Located on the ceiling.
4. Heater control controller (HCU) or stove control unit (21703-8128020). The block on which the driver sets the operating parameters of the stove. Located on the panel.
5. Additional resistor or additional resistor (2123-8118022). Determines the rotation speed of the stove fan. Secured in the engine compartment.
6. Electric heater fan (2111-8118020). Located under the hood.
7. Heater damper motor reducer (2110-8127200). Distributes air flows into the cabin (outside/heater radiator). Inside the heater assembly.
8. Air filter (2110-8122020).
9. Heater radiator (2110-8101060). Located inside the heater.

A malfunction of one of these elements causes problems in the operation of the stove.

Operating principle of the stove

The heater is controlled by a controller, from which a signal is received to turn on the stove.
The driver sets the temperature in the cabin. If the temperature sensor detects that the temperature has dropped below the set level, the controller sends a signal to change the opening width of the stove damper. In some cases, an electronic failure occurs; instead of hot air, cold air is supplied. The controller also regulates the number of fan revolutions. It sends a signal to an additional resistor, which, in turn, adjusts the operation of the fan using the built-in resistance. The resistor may not be used at all - then the fan runs at maximum speed. Thus, it acts as a “brake” for this node. If the resistor breaks, the fan may not start at all.

The driver can control which direction the air flow will be directed. To do this, he needs to set the value on the dashboard. The control regulators bark a command to move the dampers.

Heating system elements (stoves)

The fact that the Priora stove is 95% similar to the “ten” can be seen by the catalog numbers:

1. Heater assembly (2170-8101012 or 2111-8101012-10).
2. Air flow distribution gearmotor (2170-8127100). Distributes air flow to the feet/face/windshield. Located inside the dashboard.
3. Interior air temperature sensor (11186-8128050). Located on the ceiling.
4. Heater control controller (HCU) or stove control unit (21703-8128020). The block on which the driver sets the operating parameters of the stove. Located on the panel.
5. Additional resistor or additional resistor (2123-8118022). Determines the rotation speed of the stove fan. Secured in the engine compartment.
6. Electric heater fan (2111-8118020). Located under the hood.
7. Heater damper motor reducer (2110-8127200). Distributes air flows into the cabin (outside/heater radiator). Inside the heater assembly.
8. Air filter (2110-8122020).
9. Heater radiator (2110-8101060). Located inside the heater.

A malfunction of one of these elements causes problems in the operation of the stove.

Why can a fan fail?

There are several types of malfunctions of the Priora heater fan. The most common are:

1. The heater stopped working completely. In most cases, this is caused by the failure of a 25 A or F 9 fuse. Power is not supplied and the unit does not operate. The second reason may be a malfunction of the heater control unit.
2. Noise during fan operation is most often caused by a foreign object getting into it. Most often, dry leaves get stuck between the blades (especially in autumn), this leads to the appearance of extraneous sounds.
3. Only mode 4 of the stove works; in all others it does not turn on. This failure can be caused by a faulty resistor or control unit.

Not every car enthusiast can check and repair a complex stove system. If you are not well versed in auto electrics, then you should turn to professionals. Otherwise, you can use the instructions below.

Repairing fan and radiator

Often the heater regulator on a Priora does not work due to the fact that a large amount of dust or other small dirt particles has entered the heat exchanger. Over time, contaminants get inside heating devices. This cannot but affect the performance of the entire system. Air masses do not warm up well. You may note that the oven only works in position 4. In case of contamination, you can simply. You need to remove the device from the power unit side. Do not forget to first drain the antifreeze from the cooling system, disconnect the windshield wipers and wires, dismantle the fan completely and remove the entire radiator by removing the pipes leading to it.

There is not only the problem that the Priora stove operates only at maximum, but also the complete absence of air jets from the heating system. The first step is to make sure that the radiator is working in principle. Place your hand and note whether any streams of air are blown out. Even cold air masses indicate that the system is operating. Otherwise, there is a possibility of fuse failure.

If the fuse stops, it means the furnace fan is broken. One possible reason for the fan not spinning could be small leaves or other small objects that have gotten into the fan. This will be confirmed by a hum. If necessary, you can remove the fan on the Lada Priora using the same procedure as on the tenth model. Replacing the fan will solve the problem.

On Lada Priora, the damper may not work, which will prevent hot air jets from entering the cabin. You can get to the gearmotor through the hood. If the problem is not with the damper, then most likely the stove is not working due to the contacts being oxidized. Simply clean them with sandpaper.

Repair of the heater fan speed controller in Lada Priora

Today we will not talk about turbos, but about banal do-it-yourself repairs in order to save $$.

About a year after buying the car, I encountered one small but very unpleasant problem - my heater fan stopped working. Or rather, it worked, but only at maximum speed, but as you understand, driving is not an option. I began to look for a solution to the problem on the World Wide Web, and in the end I found that the culprit was the heater speed controller (hereinafter referred to as RFV), which, like a guerrilla, is located under the frill in the engine compartment on the driver’s side. In general, after reading the information, it became clear that the breakdown is not serious and the floor of the car will not have to be disassembled in order to fix this problem. There was one BUT - the price at that time (2010) of this device was more than 3 kilo rubles, which made me very upset.

Two things can fly into an RFV: a transistor (2KS2267) and a thermal fuse (2A 250V in a ceramic case with wire leads), we go to the radio market in search of spare parts, since both parts cost a penny compared to a new RFV. I couldn’t find the transistor, and people write on the Internet that it rarely fails. Basically, the thermal protector is triggered by overheating, the main reason for this is an old and clogged cabin filter (change them more often!), but I found the fuse. True, not the same as it was there, but I took 142 grams with a reserve of 10 A. 250 volts:

I know, the amperage is a bit high compared to what it was, but people installed this one, the main thing is that it will work if it overheats

The pre cost me 35 rubles. Next, armed with a set of screwdrivers, we go to the machine and take out the shaitan machine. We unscrew the 2 windshield wipers, the frill fastening screws (on the driver’s side), remove the frill to the side and find our hero of the occasion:

here he is, the suspicious guy

We remove the connector from it, unscrew 2 screws and take out this miracle:

got the villain out

Then we go home, arm ourselves with Phillips screwdrivers and a soldering iron. First, unscrew it as shown in the picture:

4 screws

We remove the case and we are presented with this view:

dismantled

Next we look at the solders:

look here

The thermal pre-soldered wire is soldered with red arrows, and the transistor is soldered with blue arrows. We unsolder the transistor, otherwise it will not be possible to completely disassemble it, since it is screwed inside to the case. In the end, this is what we have to see:

transistor and pre in thermal paste, I advise you to buy it in advance and add

The thermopred looks like this:

I have more, it didn’t fit a little into its rightful place when assembling, but I threw in more paste, I think it will be fine

We unsolder it and check its performance with a tester:

the patient is more dead than alive

We solder the new one in place, put everything back in place, check that all the legs of the transistor are soldered, and take it to the garage to check. We attach the plug to the radio frequency control unit, turn on the ignition and enjoy the air flow at all speeds. That same feeling when the repair cost 35 rubles

Also on the Internet I came across this treatment for fuse failure:

remote fuse bulb

, inside it is like this:

easy to change in case of failure

Convenient, yes, but this option only saves you from unnecessary load, i.e. It will not trip if it overheats, unlike a thermal fuse. Also, in the absence of a thermal protector, people solder wire strands, but from the days of coins in the history of Lada cars, we remember that it is extremely undesirable to do this. So that the RHF does not cause you inconvenience when operating your car, change the filter more often, 150 rubles and 15 minutes of business is much better than dancing with a tambourine and a soldering iron with an RHF and searching for spare parts.

And yes, by the way, this solution to the problem is only suitable for those who have a car with a Panasonic climate system.

Cleaning the heater fan of Lada Priora

Only on a Priora without a passenger airbag!

Hi all. So I decided to write a blog post about the heater fan. What will you do if you hear extraneous noise near the heater fan? There is no need to disassemble it, remove it, and so on.

Please note that it is better to first check the casing and impeller without disassembling the entire system or removing the impeller itself. Perhaps a leaf got there, but in my case, a small piece of pine bark got there (the devil knows how it got there, there’s a filter after all).

Well, then, I turn on the fan and hear an unpleasant sound, similar to what I heard in childhood, when pieces of plastic were attached to the spokes of a bicycle, which cracked against the spokes when riding.

Attention: the heater fan must be turned off during operation! Now the process itself: open the glove box (glove compartment), we see a technical window there. We put our hand in there, without fear (it’s very dusty there), and feel the movable cover of the fan casing, which feels like some kind of barrel. This very cover is held on a hinge at the bottom of the casing and has springs that press it against the casing. We pull the cover towards ourselves, overcoming a slight resistance (don’t be afraid there’s nothing to break there. We put our hand in and feel for the fan itself. We look with our hand to see if there are any foreign objects in the fan (as I already wrote, I took out pine bark). If there is nothing, take out your hand, the casing cover will close herself!

ALL THIS IS DONE BY TOUCH, IT APPEARS NOTHING WILL HAPPEN took a photo while inserting the phone

This same dome opens automatically if you press the “Interior air recirculation” button

Carrying out diagnostics and repairs: where to start

Let's deal with the most difficult case when the stove does not start.
First, you need to check the engine cooling system, because malfunctions may be associated with it. Check the amount of fluid in the expansion tank. Its level should be between the minimum and maximum marks. If you constantly add fluid to the reservoir, it is necessary to eliminate the leak in the cooling system. Check the pipes and tighten the clamps. In winter, you can only fill in a minimum amount of liquid, so it will heat up faster and warm air will flow into the cabin. Check fluid circulation. It may be insufficient if the pump breaks down or the cooling system is clogged. The thermostat is checked with the engine warmed up to 75 degrees. If the radiator pipe is cold when the engine is hot, then the liquid circulates in a small circle. Replacing the thermostat can help with this breakdown. If the heater works, but blows cold, then the problem may be the formation of an air lock in the engine cooling system.

If the fan works, but pumps air very poorly or weakly, then start diagnosing by checking the cabin filter. It may be contaminated, resulting in insufficient air in the system. Failure is usually preceded by the appearance of an unpleasant smell of dust.

If there is no air flow, you must:

1. Check the 25 A fuse.
2. If the fuse is intact, then check the fan itself. It may have malfunctioned. This element cannot be repaired, only changed entirely. It also changes when a whistle or buzz appears.
3. Sometimes there may be no air flow at only one of the speeds, for example, the first three or fourth. In this case, replace the resistor, it is the one that supplies the resistance incorrectly and stops the fan from working.
4. Check the heater control unit. If all other parts are working, then the problem may be in it or in the temperature sensor located in the cabin.

Another common problem is when the fan blows cold air instead of warm air. The radiator or damper is to blame for this failure. If the latter opens completely, then look for a problem in the radiator.

If you decide to replace or install an air conditioner, then it is best to purchase it from the Panasonic brand. Unlike another popular brand, Halla, it is quieter. In terms of service life, the air conditioners of these companies are approximately the same, although many car enthusiasts consider Panasonic less reliable. They differ in appearance. If you want to install the same model that was on your car, pay attention to the upper heating line. At Panasonic it is a flexible hose.

Source

No heating at idle

The heater in the car does not work. Reasons
This issue has been brought up for separate consideration for a reason, since it worries many motorists and solving the problem can be much more difficult than one might expect. So, you have a Priora, the heater does not heat up at idle, although when the car is moving, the interior is heated in normal mode. Here you can also identify several possible reasons:

1. Insufficient coolant level.
2. Leaks that lead to a decrease in antifreeze levels.
3. There is an air lock in the system.

If the first two problems can be easily diagnosed and eliminated, then with an air lock the situation is much more complicated. If you have ruled out the first two reasons and the Priora’s stove still does not heat up at idle, you need to eliminate the air lock. You must proceed as follows:

1. We remove the screen from the engine.
2. We lower the clamp, after which it is necessary to remove the heating tube for the throttle assembly. We choose any of the two.
3. Unscrew the cap on the expansion tank. We place a clean rag on the neck and begin to blow into the expansion tank. The air supply should be carried out until coolant begins to pour out of the tube, which was previously removed.
4. Immediately place the tube on the fitting and carefully tighten the clamp.
5. Installing the screen.

If the option of blowing out the tank does not suit you, then you can go another way. We warm up the engine so that the pressure in the heating system increases. After some time, we turn off the car and remove the hose from the heating of the throttle assembly. In this case, there is no need to remove the cap from the tank. As a result of high pressure, coolant will be forced through the tube. All that remains is to place the tube on the fitting and tighten the clamp.

Now the Priora stove should not cause any difficulties; you know how to fix faults, as well as carry out diagnostics and identify the source of the problems. Let the heater in your car always turn on, work properly and provide comfort regardless of the weather outside.

And driving out onto the highway is completely dangerous: God forbid, something breaks, you will really freeze until help arrives. Priora is the generally recognized descendant and successor of the Lada “ten”.

And the manufacturer did not make any fundamental design changes to the stove; only individual elements were changed. Accordingly, the diseases inherent in the ancestor were inherited by the descendant. All Priora owners unanimously assure that the heating system in it is very unreliable and can break down in several components. The worst thing is that in the summer few people remember about the stove and are puzzled by checking it. Therefore, discomfort is detected suddenly and requires lightning-fast action.

Introduction

One of the most important devices of any car can be called its heating unit; the lack of normal operation of the stove is especially clearly felt in the cold season, when driving in a frozen car becomes simply extremely uncomfortable. In most cases, many malfunctions of the Lada Priora heating device are associated with the cooling system of the power unit. In view of this circumstance, we should first consider the problems that this particular device causes. At the same time, we learn about the structure of the stove itself and its components, which also tend to periodically fail.

Gearmotor repair

In most cases, the extraneous sounds produced by the heater damper drive on a Priora are associated with cracking of the plastic gear. When its teeth are cut off, the mechanism stops working normally. Replacing it is quite difficult, but possible. After dismantling the gearbox, release the compressed plastic cover and bend it, then carefully remove it.

After carefully inspecting the mechanism, determine which gears are faulty and install new ones. Determine the condition of the commutator, bearings and brushes of the mechanism. Lubricate the bearings with silicone grease, which does not harm other structural elements. If after assembly the system functions normally, replacing the heater gear motor will not be necessary.

Engine cooling system malfunction

If the motorist suspects that the problem lies precisely in the cooling system of the power unit, you should make sure that the level of coolant, which is located in the expansion tank, is in the middle of critical values. In other words, there should be enough antifreeze in the tank so that it is not below o and above “max”. Otherwise, the car owner will have to monitor the condition of the coolant; if it has to be topped up periodically, it is quite possible that there is a hole in the cooling system and it is leaking. Before changing any components, you need to check all the pipes, which will allow you to find leaks. In addition, it would be useful to tighten the clamps. There is one trick that many Lada Priora owners use: in winter, antifreeze is poured into the tank only up to about 0, which allows you to quickly warm up the interior. The fact is that a smaller amount of liquid in the device contributes to its rapid heating.

To make sure that antifreeze is circulating normally in the system, you should carefully inspect the expansion tank.

Is it all about the filter?

Replacing the filter can often help solve the problem of weak air mass flows - when dirty, it becomes an obstacle to the passage of warm air. And then, even at high speed, the air flow can be too weak. You can also repair the heater rheostat (Priora with air conditioning) yourself. It is enough to replace the thermal fuse. This is precisely what a clogged filter affects. The thermal fuse overheats and fails; it only works at the maximum position.

If the Priora stove only works in position 4, then this may indicate that the rheostat has burned out. The same problem can lead to the heating system operating exclusively in the first position. Additional resistance causes the stove to work worse and slower. You will note that the Priora stove switch does not work.

Many passenger cars of the domestic automobile industry have a similar resistor block to the Lada Priora. You can get to the rheostat of the Priora stove through the housing on the left. You need to unscrew two screws to get to this block.

Other reasons why the stove on the Lada Priora does not function well

Quite often, with the onset of cold weather, car owners of Lada Priora cars begin to notice that the heating device is barely working. Therefore, if only slightly warm air comes from the stove, it is likely that the coolant circulation is poor or not at all. The cause of such a malfunction may be an inoperative pump, which will simply need to be replaced later. Similar problems can arise if the cooling system is clogged; in such a situation, only competent cleaning of the engine cooling system will help.

To check the functionality of the stove on a Priora, you need to find out about the condition of the thermostat. In order to carry out this manipulation, it is necessary to warm up the power unit to at least 75 °C. After this, the radiator pipe, which is located at the top, is checked. In the event that this element of the system is cold, apparently, the circulation of antifreeze occurs exclusively in a small circle. It is best to replace the thermostat, which will get rid of the problem.

It also happens that the heating unit begins to blow only cold air; in this case, it is best to look for the cause of the malfunction in the cooling system of the power unit, since it will be air-filled. If, for example, a heater motor with an air conditioner needs to be replaced or a fan repaired, the owner of a Lada Priora will need to first become familiar with the purpose of all components.

Problems with the damper gear motor or fan motor

A common malfunction on a Lada Priora car is that the heater does not work. No air blowing at all.

First, you should make sure that the heater motor is working - at least cold air should be blowing from the deflectors. If not, then you need to check the integrity of fuse F9.

If it is intact, it means the stove fan is not working. "Priora" is equipped with a "ten" fan. Therefore, removing it exactly repeats the procedure on the “ten”. In some cases, the fan does not spin because leaves or other foreign objects have gotten between the impeller and its housing, which can block rotation. In this case, you can hear a characteristic hum.

Cold air can also come out of the deflectors because the gear motor that controls the damper that blocks the flow of hot air is not working. It is also accessible from under the hood.

Often the cause of gearmotor failure is oxidation of conductive contacts. They need to be cleaned with sandpaper by disassembling the body. You should also pay attention to the strength of the air flow. If even at maximum speed the air is blowing weakly, it may be a clogged cabin filter. It is located under the hood in the heater housing and creates additional interference.

Repair and maintenance of the stove on the Lada Priora

Lada Priora is a product of the domestic automobile industry. This car has earned people's love for its low cost, good quality, and the availability of parts when repairs are needed. Despite good reviews from owners, the car is not without a number of shortcomings.

For example, it happens that the Priora stove only works at speed 4. You can go to a service station to find out why the Priora stove switch is not working. But you can wait for your turn for several days, and the problem needs to be solved as quickly as possible.

The stove or heating system on the Lada Priora is almost no different from the same system of its predecessor, the “tens”. If you are familiar with the device of the tenth model, then you can easily figure out the heating system on the Priora. There may be several reasons why the temperature of the Priora stove is not regulated. Let's look at what these reasons are:

1. incorrect operation of the thermostat;
2. malfunctions in the cabin air temperature sensor system;
3. dust getting into the radiator of the car heating system;
4. breakdowns in the heating system control unit;
5. malfunctions in the operation of the gearmotor or electric motor of the heating system.

Before you begin troubleshooting the heating of the furnace, it is necessary to eliminate the impact of breakdowns of the cooling system and engine. Only then can you begin to figure out why the stove mode switch on the Priora does not work.

To do this, we check the antifreeze level and engine operation. First step: look into the expansion tank and determine the coolant level. Then turn on the engine and warm it up for a while. This will allow you to determine whether the thermostat is functioning correctly.

Just touch the thick pipes leading to the radiator.

If you find that the top pipe is hot, this indicates that the device is functioning normally. A cold pipe is a sign that the thermostat is not working properly and you will need to replace it.

Features of the heater in a Priora with air conditioning

A common reason why the stove (Priora with air conditioning) does not work is the failure of the speed control unit (RFV), which is located on the heater housing under the hood. It regulates the intensity of the fan motor. If it fails, the stove stops functioning altogether or operates only at fourth speed.

The cause of the malfunction is often prolonged operation of the heater in recirculation mode (with the air damper closed) and, as a consequence, its overheating. Therefore, its performance should also be checked.

Malfunctions of the heater control unit

The operation of the heating system is completely dependent on the heater. It distributes air flows, the intensity of airflow to different zones of the cabin and the temperature regime. If it fails, the stove naturally stops working.

There may be malfunctions of the switches (“twisters”). The malfunction of the control unit should be checked last, since this unit is electronic and can rarely be repaired. Therefore, to check it, it is advisable to temporarily replace it with one that is known to work, borrowing it from a friend or in a store with a deposit.

How malfunctions manifest themselves

The automatic temperature maintenance system used on the VAZ-2110 is more convenient in terms of control, since the automatic control system does everything independently, but is less reliable than a mechanical cable drive. Moreover, problems are caused by the electronic and electrical components of the stove - the controller, temperature sensor and micromotor gearbox, the central damper, which regulates the air supply to the cabin from the outside.

Problems with the operation of the VAZ-2110 heater related to the damper:

• lack of temperature control (only hot or cold air comes from the stove) regardless of the position of the handle on the controller;
• insufficient air heating (even when setting the handle to the maximum temperature);
• squeaks, knocks and extraneous noises after setting the temperature.

The cause of such problems is the central damper of the VAZ-2110 stove, which is adjusted by the controller through a gearbox. The design of the stove includes another damper - air distribution into zones. It is controlled using a handle mounted on the central air supply deflector into the cabin, so malfunctions with this part are rare.

Causes of malfunctions

Depending on the design of the stove, the damper may cause a disruption in the efficient operation of the heater for the following reasons:

• deformation;
• wear of seals;
• deterioration or damage to control levers and rods;
• skew.

Deformation is a problem with old-style heaters. The first dampers of the VAZ-2110 stove were equipped with plastic elements that bent under the influence of temperature. Because of this, even when completely closed, cold air from outside leaks in and mixes with the heated air, and the efficiency of the stove decreases. Subsequently, the designers replaced the plastic flaps with aluminum ones and the problem with deformation disappeared.

To ensure tightness, the dampers have seals that reduce air leakage. Initially, foam rubber seals were used, which quickly wore out and became damaged. Later, foam rubber was replaced with rubber, but this only extended the service life of the seal; over time, the rubber ages, cracks and collapses.

On old-style stoves, rods and levers may break. On new heaters, there is another problem - wear on the edges of the square end of the gearbox, with which it is inserted into the groove made in the damper axis. As a result, the limit switch bypasses the groove, and the heater damper jams, although the gearmotor operates. The misalignment occurs due to the displacement of the damper axis in the mounting holes of the housing. Because of this, the damper warps and jams when opening.

Important points

There are a couple of nuances, without mentioning which this article would be incomplete:

So, replacing a heating gear motor is not a very difficult task and even a novice driver can do it. If a person has held a screwdriver in his hands at least once, he can handle it. All you need to do is follow the above recommendations exactly.

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Feedback from a car owner: First of all, the control is clear and pronounced. An appearance that is superior to later models of the third series. Economy on the highway. Personally, on 16 wheels it took me 5.5-6 liters at an average speed of 110. Ha 18- s consumption has increased))

Additional resistance fault

There are often situations when the heater switch on a Priora does not work - the motor operates only at fourth speed or only at first. The reason here may be additional resistance, which slows down the rotation speed of the stove fan.

This resistance is a block of resistors (the fourth speed is direct, without deceleration). It is located in the heater housing on the left side and is secured with two screws. This resistance is also unified with many domestic models (2110, Kalina, Chevrolet Niva).

Complete replacement of the heater gearmotor

If a motorist wants to replace a faulty gear motor of a heating device, he should start by removing the beard from the dashboard and also removing the pedal assembly. Such manipulations will not allow you to completely get rid of the torpedo. After this, you can carefully remove all the screws that secure the unit. All this will help get rid of the necessary device.

The car owner, having removed the previous heater gear motor, will be able to use a plastic device to replace the non-working device with a new one.

However, to get rid of the problem, you should first call someone you know. In fact, it is quite difficult to cope with such a problem alone; the help of a friend will make the process easier and faster.

Factory heater damper gearmotor

Replacing a damper gearmotor on a Priora requires first of all connecting the contacts to a new device

It is very important to position the unit in such a way that the holes of all screws are in their proper places. The next step is to use an assistant to influence the temperature regulator, simultaneously pressing on it

If all the squares match, we can happily talk about the success of the procedure. As a rule, this will ensure a normal supply of air at the temperature that will be set by the motorist.

Installing and turning a new gear motor

The problem can be corrected by further screwing in the screws, as well as by rotating a new gearmotor. The unit should be checked gradually moving from the blue mark to the red mark, moving the handle in the opposite direction

It is important to do this so that the car’s heating system can fix its operating range, in the future functioning as required by the owner of the Priora

Heater radiator malfunctions

Another reason why the deflectors in a Lada Priora car do not work may be the accumulation of dirt in the heat exchanger. When the cooling system operates, deposits accumulate in the engine block itself over time, which are then spread throughout the entire system, including into the heater radiator. These deposits prevent it from working effectively. The system will heat the air worse. In this case, the heater radiator can be replaced entirely. It is removed from the engine side. Before starting work, be sure to drain the antifreeze from the cooling system. Then dismantle the windshield wiper arms, the frill trim and move aside part of the soundproofing shield. After this, disassemble the stove body, disconnect the wires, remove the fan motor along with the impeller and remove the heat exchanger, disconnecting the supply hoses from it.

Where is the Priora stove valve located?

. » Logbook » trouble... I want warmth... gear motor!! maybe it’s just not there. The damper by hand, we try to “feel” where it comes into contact with the heater body and put a strip of splen on this place... for the entire length of the damper... The damper itself...

We will also show where the fuses and relays are located on the diagram and discuss the purpose of each of them and how to replace them. Why is the stove turned off, but hot air comes in? Replacing the heater valve on a VAZ LuxVAZ. Engine Lada Priora VAZ 2170 design features. Where are the mass of sensors located in the VAZ 2109 i. Where is the Audi B4 80 gas tank installed? photo. . » Logbook » trouble... I want warmth... gearmotor

How to replace the radiator of a Priora stove - OKTAKO. Replacing the stove (heater) radiator on a Priora with your own hands - video. Instructions for replacing the stove valve with gas 3302.

Replacing the heater valve on a VAZ LuxVAZ. Engine Lada Priora VAZ 2170 design features. Where are the mass of sensors located in the VAZ 2109 i. Where is the Audi B4 80 gas tank installed? photo.