Release bearing VAZ 2108 - removal and installation

Which clutch bearing should I install?

The original clutch bearing number is 2108 1601182.

Pilenga PC-P 2108 — 360 rub.
Luk 500 0439 20 — 1156 rub.
Fenox TP2116C3 — 345 rub.

We remove the “negative” terminal from the battery “4”, remove the connector from the mass air flow sensor (MAF) “2”, loosen the clamp securing the corrugation to the MAF “3”, remove the air filter housing “1” from the car.

Remove the clutch cable from the clutch fork. Loosen the two nuts securing the cable to the bracket on the gearbox.

Remove the clutch protective cover. Disconnect the ground wire and the top dead center sensor from the clutch housing. Disconnect the wires from the reverse light switch. Drain the oil.

Unscrew the 3 bolts securing the bracket to the body. Unscrew the nut securing the arm extension.

We jack up the car. We remove two bolts “1” and disconnect the ball joint of the suspension arm from the steering knuckle. Unscrew the nut “2” securing the brace to the suspension arm, and remove the longitudinal brace together with the lever.

We remove the wheel, unscrew the hub nut and unscrew the fastening of the ball joint to the steering knuckle, then remove the CV joint from the bearing hole.

Having rested the pry bar against the gearbox housing, we press the internal drive joint from the side gear, to do this we sharply hit the body of the internal joint with a hammer. We knock out the hinge from the side gear.

Mounting a ball joint without front wheel drive.

Loosen the clamp and disconnect the gear shift rod from the gear selection hinge. It is also necessary to support the engine, otherwise it may drop too low and tear off the interior heater hoses.

Having unscrewed the bolts securing the rear suspension support of the power unit, remove the suspension bracket from the eyes of the body spar.

Using a 17mm wrench, unscrew the nut and remove the bolt of the left engine mount. Unscrew the three starter mounting nuts and remove the starter.

Using a 19mm wrench, unscrew the three bolts and one nut securing the clutch housing to the cylinder block, remove the gearbox from the engine and remove it.

Using an 8-mm spanner, unscrew the six bolts securing the clutch housing to the flywheel. To loosen the bolts easily, tap their heads with a copper hammer. You can also use a 8mm socket to loosen the bolts.

Remove the driven and driven clutch discs. We check the degree of wear of the friction linings. If the rivet heads are recessed less than 0.2 mm, the surface of the friction linings is oily or the rivet joints are loose, the disc must be replaced. Cracks or mechanical damage to parts of the driven disk are not allowed.

If a visual inspection reveals loosening of the rivet connections of the clutch basket and drive disc parts, the clutch drive disc assembly should be replaced.

Lubricate the release bearing seat on the shaft, as well as the clutch guide forks, then install the bearing.

When installing the clutch, we orient the driven disk with its protruding part towards the drive disk and insert the centering mandrel.

We insert the mandrel into the hole in the crankshaft and secure the clutch drive disc in this position, tightening the bolts evenly (one turn per pass). We tighten the bolts no more than one turn each, so as not to deform the flange of the clutch drive disc. We assemble everything in reverse order.

It is quite simple to determine the malfunction of the release bearing on the VAZ 2109 by the characteristic symptoms. Today we will talk about signs of wear on an element, and also tell you in detail how to replace it.

Element appearance

https://youtu.be/https://youtu.be/1858lZXHZ-g
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Replacement

Not all car owners decide to replace the release bearing (TR) themselves. But if you are ready for this kind of work, then go for it.

VI components

The main difficulty in replacing the gearbox is the need to dismantle the gearbox. Without this event, it will not be possible to replace the component.

Therefore, think twice before making a final decision. There is always the opportunity to contact a car service.

To work you will need the following set of tools and materials:

Set of wrenches;
Jack;
Several durable bricks;
New release bearing;
Screwdriver Set;
Container for draining transmission fluid;
Clutch holder;
Garage with a pit or lifting mechanism.

It is better to divide the entire replacement procedure into two main stages.

Removing the gearbox.
Bearing replacement.

Many people make the mistake of relaxing too much when they finally change the bearing. In practice, reassembly often causes more problems than dismantling work. Please take this into account.

Dismantling the gearbox

Place the car over a hole or overpass.
Lift the hood, remove the negative terminal from the battery and throw it aside.
Disconnect the ground wire from the clutch housing.
Use a screwdriver to remove the engine splash guard. To do this, you need to unscrew several screws that hold the mudguard to the elements of the side wings. For the VAZ 2109, a key size of 8 is used. Having removed all the screws there, remove the parts of the engine mudguard and put them away for now.
Disconnect the transmission drive rod. To do this, use a 13mm wrench to loosen the clamp bolts. Next, use a screwdriver to separate the ends of the clamp and disconnect the element from the gearbox.
Be sure to disable the reverse optics sensor.
Place blocks or bricks under the rear wheels of the car to prevent the car from moving.
Remove the front wheels by first loosening the bolts and lifting the front part of the body. After removing the wheels, place pre-prepared bricks under the body.
Using a 17 wrench, unscrew the nuts securing the ball joint to the steering knuckle on both sides.
The extension is moved to the side, and the fastening screws of the left extension to the vehicle's suspension arm are unscrewed.
Using a 10 mm wrench, remove the fasteners of the lower clutch housing cover.
Remove the transmission mounts. This is done as follows. Place supports or bricks under the engine and a jack under the box. Unscrew the mounting screws of the support to the body with a 17mm wrench. After removing the bolt, remove the support bracket by unscrewing several corresponding nuts.
We proceed directly to dismantling the gearbox. Using a 19 wrench, unscrew the fasteners of the clutch housing to the cylinder block. Use a jack to lower the gearbox slightly and move it away from the engine. Lower until the input shaft begins to come out of the box.
Enlist the support of a partner, since it is quite difficult to remove the gearbox alone.
Make sure that the gearbox input shaft does not rest on the clutch spring petals. If you allow this situation to happen, you will simply damage them.
Carefully place the gearbox on the supports, being careful not to hit it. Otherwise, repairs will cost much more than buying a new bearing.

Removing the gearbox

Removing a gearbox is a complex procedure that requires a lot of time, patience and skills. Therefore, without these, it is better not to undertake work with your own hands.

Clutch leads

If the clutch does not slip, but moves, this may indicate insufficient pedal travel. By adjusting the clutch release drive, the malfunction can be eliminated.
The clutch can also jam if the driven disc is warped. In this case, the disk is either replaced or straightened.
A stuck HP hub can also cause the clutch to slip. You just need to clean the splines and rinse them with alcohol. If the splines themselves are very worn, the input shaft should be replaced.
If the pressure plate is skewed or warped, replace the clutch housing.
If the rivets are loosened or the friction lining is broken, the clutch will again not engage completely. In this case, the linings are replaced or the runout is checked.
The performance and functioning of the clutch cable may be impaired. The cable is replaced and everything starts working as before.

Clutch disc installation: what to pay attention to

Let's start with the fact that thanks to the clutch, the car is able to move off smoothly, gears are switched smoothly, which contributes to the normal operation of all elements of the transmission and the internal combustion engine itself, preserving the life of components and assemblies.

Taking into account the fact that the load on the clutch is high, the service life of the clutch itself is, on average, about 100 thousand km. Its wear is indicated by loss of traction, slipping of the clutch, incomplete disengagement of the clutch, difficulties when shifting gears, the clutch pedal may become soft or, conversely, too tight, etc.

vaz 2109 clutch replacement

The clutch is a metal disc designed to connect the engine flywheel and gearbox, for the subsequent transmission of torque to the wheels. The clutch is one of the main parts of the car's drive, because movement without it is impossible.

The main signs by which to judge that the clutch is in a faulty condition:

At high engine speeds, the car picks up speed very slowly. This indicates that the disk has become sufficiently worn out and is beginning to slip, thereby transmitting torque unsatisfactorily and reducing the efficiency of the engine.
After acceleration, a burning smell appears in the car interior.
When driving in the final gears, at the slightest touch of the clutch pedal, the revolutions rise sharply. This is due to the weak contact area between the clutch disc and the engine flywheel, and the transmission of torque disappears at the slightest touch to the pedal.

If you find any of your faults on this list, then this is a signal that your car’s clutch is in poor condition.

On a VAZ 2109, the clutch can be replaced either with or without removing the gearbox. The first option is recommended, since during the replacement process it will be possible to check the condition of the gearbox from the inside and, if possible, eliminate minor faults, as well as clean it from dirt.

Procedure:

Drain the gearbox oil and loosen the hub nuts on the front wheels (do not unscrew them completely). We lift the car with a jack, put it on reliable supports and remove the wheels. We unscrew, now completely, the hub nuts, remove the calipers from the hub, unscrew the lower ball joints, pull out the hub, hang it on the upper hinges and remove both CV joints from the gearbox. Disconnect the battery and put it away during repairs. Remove the clutch cable and hang it to the side, away from the work area, so that it does not interfere with the process. The engine protection, of course, also needs to be removed. Unscrew and remove the starter and rocker rod. It is best to unscrew the link together with the hinge and leave it hanging under the car. Thus, we save time on adjusting the rod and lighten the weight of the gearbox for further dismantling. Now you need to put a jack under your pants and raise them a little. This action will help maintain the balance of the engine, because two of the three supports that hold the engine are located on the gearbox, and when removing the gearbox, the engine may fall over or even collapse. Remove the gearbox support from the driver's side member. Unscrew the cable that operates the speedometer and remove the clutch housing boot. It is a sheet of tin covering the flywheel on the engine side. Unscrew the bolts used to secure the gearbox to the engine and remove the gearbox

This is where you should focus your attention. The “nine” gearbox weighs about 30-35 kg and when removed it will have to be moved so that it comes out smoothly

This action is best done together. Now you need to unscrew the original clutch from the flywheel and install a new one purchased in advance. After replacing the clutch, you can begin assembly. Assembly must be done in reverse order.

By the way, about the choice of clutch. It is best to buy a clutch from a foreign manufacturer, because domestic ones have a short service life and quickly fail. The most positive reviews remained for the Valeo brand. Buying it or a disc with a flywheel of another brand is your choice; here we describe only a purchase recommendation based on the experience of many drivers.

Do-it-yourself clutch replacement (front-wheel drive)

Unlike VAZ classics, on front-wheel drive 2108-2115 it takes a little longer to change the clutch, and the work of removing the gearbox is more labor-intensive. But with experience, professionals perform the operation of removing the gearbox quickly, and besides, there is a method in which it is not necessary to completely dismantle the gearbox; it is enough to just hang it up.

We do the replacement ourselves without completely removing the gearbox as follows:

we hang the car on a car lift; if the work is being done in a pit, we place tripods under both front sides of the underbody;
remove the battery terminal (minus);
unscrew the front wheel bolts and remove the front wheels;
unscrew the clutch cable mounting bracket from the box and move the cable itself to the side;
dismantle the speedometer cable (if you do not remove it, when you move the gearbox, it may become overtightened and as a result burst);
unscrew the ball joint nuts on each side (left and right bearing);
unscrew the starter and move it to the side;
unscrew the nuts of the front wheel hubs;
unscrew the three fastenings of the lower gearbox casing and remove the casing;
if there is protection under the engine, it must also be removed;
dismantle the left mudguard;
remove the three bolts of the left “crab” (bracket), which is attached to the front left, next to the front bumper;
unscrew the fastening of the left lever (in the area of the wheel);
loosen the other lever fastening (in the area of the box), move the levers down so as not to interfere;
remove the left gearbox cushion;
unscrew the bolts securing the gear shift rod, disconnect the rod;
unscrew the rear gearbox cushion;
unscrew the top two bolts securing the gearbox to the engine, screw in the long bolts of the cylinder head instead;
unscrew all other transmission fasteners - now the box on the top bolts “moves away” from the engine;
twist the six bolts securing the basket; we install the new parts in place, tightening all the bolts, move the box towards the engine, tighten the bolts to the end through the hole in the starter (turning the crankshaft). With this method, the centering roller will not fit here, so the clutch can only be secured in this way;
We put all the removed parts back in place.

With this method, there is no need to drain the oil from the gearbox, since the wheel drives (CV joints) are not removed from the gearbox housing. The distance between the engine and gearbox is not too large, but there is enough space to attach the bolts of the basket.

How to replace the clutch - next steps

Remove the speedometer limit switch. All we have to do is turn off the cardan, which is located under the boot. Unscrew the stopper. They disconnected everything from above and unscrewed it, removing the clutch pedal cable.

Now you need to unscrew the rear airbag. The engine will hang, the box will tilt down a little. We unscrew the bolt securing the pillow to the side member and pull it to the side. Due to the fact that the engine is suspended, the box can flop around. We check that all the bolts have been unscrewed. Let's take a small montage. If you are removing the box for the first time, then place a board under it. Otherwise, without knowing the actual weight of the gearbox, you may drop it.

You will have to lower the engine a little, since the bracket does not allow the box to come out. With a slight movement of your hand, remove the box. Her weight is twenty kilograms. The problem was with the clutch, we see a half-dead release bearing, worn out petals that were sticking. Water got into the basket and there was rust.

Next, let's see how worn the clutch basket is. Here we see a leak of antifreeze from under the pipe. The wear on the clutch disc is visible. The car has traveled many kilometers, not 150 thousand, but more. The bolts all unscrew like clockwork.

Let's put another basket. Try to choose a clutch disc with a large number of springs and a clutch with a large number of petals, then everything will work smoothly. There is very little left to do to replace the clutch. Assembly is carried out in reverse order.

Removing the box

Removing the VAZ 2109 box

The mudguard and engine crankcase protection are dismantled;
The oil is drained from the gearbox;
The drive nuts break off.

Note. It is necessary to turn off the power to the battery and hang the front of the car using reliable supports.

The clutch cable is dismantled;
The speedometer cable is turned off;
The bolts securing the ball joints are unscrewed;
The longitudinal stretch is removed;
The drives are pulled out of the gearbox.

Note. To prevent the differential from turning or falling apart, a special stopper is inserted into the gearbox.

It's time to remove the starter;
After which the reverse speed sensor is dismantled;
The flywheel protective casing is separated from the box;
The gearbox linkage is detached (the position should be marked before removing it);
The bolts securing the gearbox to the engine are unscrewed one by one.

Note. It is imperative to secure the engine with a hydraulic jack or something else.

We unscrew all the gearbox supports that connect the box to the car body;
We weigh the box away from the engine (you can’t do it alone, you need an assistant).

Note. Only about 10 cm is enough for the input shaft to pop out of the clutch basket.

We remove the box, but do it very carefully so as not to damage the input shaft.

Increased noise when turned on

If there is increased noise when the clutch engages, this indicates wear or damage to the release bearing. There may also be a grease leak from the release bearing. The solution is to replace the bearing (step-by-step instructions for the process are given below).
Increased noise when the clutch is engaged can also be caused by a breakdown of the damper springs that make up the clutch driven disc. In this case, you will have to replace the driven disk itself.

If jerking is observed when shifting the clutch, then the friction linings may have become oiled. Remedy: Thoroughly rinse the surfaces of the linings with a special liquid and be sure to replace worn gearbox and engine seals.
Jerking can be caused by jamming in the clutch release drive. To eliminate this problem, you first need to find the reasons that contribute to the jamming. Then replace these same parts.

The design and principle of operation of the release bearing

Such bearings come in two varieties: roller, which uses a fairly rigid connection between the rods, and hydraulic, which uses the force of the clutch hydraulic system.

Regardless of the make and model of the car, the clutch works on the same principle everywhere. It provides a smooth connection between the car’s engine and its transmission to ensure smooth operation of the car when the gear is engaged and eliminate the possibility of rapid wear of the elements connecting the engine and transmission.

The clutch is a pressure plate that attaches to the housing and presses the driven disc against the flywheel. The disk hub is connected to the input shaft and can move freely along it. Damper springs are located on the hub body, which act as vibration dampers and ensure smooth running.

To create the required pressing force, a spring with petals is used, on which the release bearing acts. It is the connecting link between the drive and the clutch, since a fork with a lever is attached to it, at the end of which a cable or other lever leading to the clutch pedal is attached.

Expert advice

Along the way, some mistakes emerged. This is a grenade with a boot without a clamp. There is also a jamb in the drive, the CV joint boot is torn. The thread on the grenade is bad. The ball joints are still working well, but there is already some wear and tear.

So, don’t be afraid to change the clutch disc, release plate, or basket. If you are making a car for yourself and not for sale, then it is recommended to change everything as a whole. These are the clutch disc, basket, release bearing, drive seal. If you have never changed a box, do not be afraid to take on this task, it is not difficult. The only condition is that when you install the clutch disc, center it.

There is a hole, when you install the clutch disc and press it with a basket, it may move. You will never hit the splines with the input shaft, since the shaft fits into the splines, and the guide is then removed. This is a cylindrical rod, it fits the classic, front-wheel drive. Its diameter is 20 mm, inserted into the flywheel, 15 mm, length 100 mm.

Worn clutch release bearing

Clutch VAZ 2109

Typically, those who like to drive fast are more likely to encounter the problem of bearing wear. At the same time, people who are supporters of quiet driving have often never even heard of this problem. If it is noticeable that the bearing is failing, it urgently needs to be replaced, otherwise:

The very next trip can be fatal for the car.
The disc will overheat, causing the pads to crumble.
It will be necessary to change not only the bearing, but also the clutch disc.
In addition, the clutch itself can become “covered.” A sign of this may be an incomprehensible noise coming from it.

To change the release bearing, you will need to completely disassemble the entire assembly, and this is a rather labor-intensive process.

How to replace

Clutch for VAZ 2109

To ensure that replacing the clutch bearing does not cause inconvenience, it is advisable to drive the car onto a lift or place it over an inspection hole.

Note: bearing replacement can also be carried out in “field” conditions, that is, with a jack

However, it is very important to ensure that the car does not roll down

Replacement occurs as follows:

Remove the negative battery terminal.
Disconnect the flashlight connector.
Disconnect the driveshaft.
Remove the slave cylinder.
Remove the gearbox, which is secured by several large bolts.

Note: to make this easier, you can bend the gear knob all the way. At the same time, the handle must not be allowed to “hang” freely. It is advisable to provide it with reliable support.

Once you have access to the clutch basket, you can begin removing it. To do this, unscrew the bolts that secure it to the flywheel (it must be completely motionless).

Note: You can use a large screwdriver for this.

Pull out the clutch release fork.
Remove the bearing.
Change it.
Press in properly using a key.
Wipe the surface of all parts with a degreaser to remove dirt and foreign objects. This may cause the car to slip.
Reassemble everything in reverse order.

Note: Before you begin assembling the gearbox, it is advisable to apply a little lubricant to the sprockets of the input shaft.

When all the parts are assembled, the clutch should be adjusted.
The length of the working cylinder should be slightly reduced.

Replacing the clutch bearing can be done at home and with your own hands. Usually in car services the price of this procedure is quite high. Therefore, if you want to save your money, you need to give preference to home repairs. Any instructions will also help you quickly and begin to review many photos and videos on this topic. perform quality work.

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Write:

Clutch failure is one of the troubles that can await a driver on the road. Usually, the car simply stops moving, even though the engine is running normally. Such a breakdown does not always occur suddenly; often before this you can observe some signs of an imminent breakdown.

Replacing the disk yourself

Clutch disc basket VAZ 2109

It should be noted right away that on front-wheel drive cars, replacing a disc is a little more difficult than on classic models. In addition, different brands and models of cars have their own nuances for removing and installing the clutch. First you need to read the instructions and recommendations for changing the clutch yourself. It would be a good idea to consult with experts.

Note! In the process of replacing a damaged part, there is no need to skimp; it is better to immediately replace all elements that cause suspicion. As for rubber products, they need to be changed unconditionally. According to experts, the release bearing also needs to be replaced.

When replacing the clutch on a VAZ 2109, there is no need to completely dismantle the gearbox, drain the oil, completely remove the VAZ CV joints, etc.

Replacing the clutch on a VAZ 2109/21099 without removing the gearbox

Replacing the VAZ 2109/21099 clutch without removing the gearbox is quite difficult. You will not find instructions or recommendations on this topic in the car's owner's manual. These recommendations are based on the experience of car enthusiasts who share their experience of replacing the clutch.

The main problem when replacing a clutch is that not every motorist has an overpass, a pit, and especially a lift, and it is necessary to make sure that the massive gearbox does not fall to the ground. But lifting it is problematic, since it is impossible to crawl under the car with it. All steps for removing the gearbox are almost the same as the instructions above, with the exception of some nuances:

Purchase two bolts from the upper arm of the classic front suspension from the store. Their threads are exactly the same as those on the bolts that secure the box and the engine block together.
Screw them in from above, only after that, with a small crowbar or screwdriver, we begin to disconnect the nodes. After moving away, the rear part of the box will rest on the transverse rod, and a gap of about 15 centimeters will form between the clutch housing and the flywheel.
The release bearing is removed through the resulting gap and the bolts on the basket are unscrewed.

But the installation is slightly different from the process shown in the instructions:

Place the new release valve in its place. Then a disk is installed on the flywheel and a basket on top of it.
Just tighten the bolts a couple of turns, but do not overtighten!
Carefully begin to slide the input shaft onto the splines in the disc.
Then we move the box back and tighten the bolts on the basket. The basket fastening bolts are tightened only after the box is installed in its place.
After this, you can install the gearbox and tighten the bolts on it.

Order of Operations

To carry out repair work, you need to place the car on an inspection hole, put it on the handbrake, disconnect the negative terminal to de-energize the on-board network, and remove the engine mudguard. Now you can start disassembling:

Install a jack that will temporarily replace the front pair of wheels. You need to unscrew the nuts on them, remove the chassis and put them aside.
To remove the contact part of the ball joint from the hub, you need to unscrew the bolts.
Instead of the 2 upper conventional bolts, you need to install cylinder head fasteners.

Now you can remove the starter; it is attached to three nuts that need to be unscrewed.

At this stage it is necessary to install a jack under the engine. After this, the side motor support is detached.

After this, you can disconnect the rear engine mount and unscrew the gearshift linkage.

The protective cover must be removed from the clutch.

The box is secured with several bolts; first you need to unscrew the front one.
Now the transmission is accessible, the rear nut is unscrewed first.

The gearbox bolts are located on the left wing side; they need to be unscrewed until they stop and the gearbox should be removed. It is important to ensure that the end of the assembly rests on the lever extension. This will create a gap that will allow you to remove the clutch. IMG9

Disassembly is complete. At this point, the guide for the clutch remains. It needs to be thoroughly lubricated. After this, you can put the release bearing on the guide.

Subsequent operations are performed in the reverse order of the above steps. Important! There is no need to rush while completing the work. All operations are performed consistently and calmly. Make sure that after assembly there are no “extra” spare parts left.

How to replace a VAZ 21099 clutch, watch this video:

Clutch replacement

Replacing the clutch and release bearing of a VAZ 2109

If the car is still hot after driving, you need to wait for it to cool down. After that:

Unscrew the exhaust pipe clamp, remove the cardan (see Repairing the cardan yourself).
Unscrew the rear flange.

Note: Since the pipe is all solid and there are no joints, it will be difficult to unscrew it.

When the car has cooled down, you can begin to remove the starter. The top bolt must be unscrewed with a 13 key. After this, it will be possible to remove the starter.
To remove the clutch, you need to unscrew the bolts by 13. Unscrew the mudguard, which is secured with bolts by 10 (there are only 2).
Remove the 4 bolts securing the clutch to the engine. This can be done using the key 19.
Unscrew the speedometer cable. Remove two bolts. Unscrew the traverse. After this, you can easily remove the box.
In order to remove the clutch, you need to unscrew the 6 bolts securing the drive disc. You need to insert a special frame into the center. By the way, further actions will be much easier with it, otherwise it will be difficult to center.

Note: A regular input shaft can be used instead.

When all the bolts are unscrewed, you can remove the basket.

VAZ 2109 clutch

You need to unscrew the bell. There are 6 bolts for 13 and one for 17.
It is necessary to clean the gasket with a knife.
Pull out the oil seal. To do this, hit the bell with a hard object. You need to insert a new oil seal in place of the old one and press it in.
Insert the disk with the protruding part facing out.
After that, it’s the turn of the clutch basket.
Clean the entire surface and wipe with degreaser so that the sealant adheres well.
In addition to replacing the clutch and oil seal, the oil must also be changed.

Note: it is advisable to place the canister so that the oil flows into it.

Apply sealant and install gaskets (sealant should be installed in a thin layer so that it does not leak).
Put on the bell.
Insert new release bearing.
Put the box in place and pour in oil (1.5 l). You need to fill it until it flows from the filler neck. Tighten the plug.
Everything needs to be assembled in reverse order.
Don't forget about the speedometer and reverse gear, as they need to be connected. If you forget this, you will have to repeat everything again later.

Let's summarize

From the above, we can conclude that the operation of replacing the release bearing of a VAZ 2113-2115 is not as labor-intensive as it might seem at first glance. The most important thing is to follow the above instructions and master all the listed tools.

If you doubt your abilities, it is better to entrust the work to professionals. The price for replacing a release bearing for a VAZ 2113-2115 is from 2000 to 3500 rubles. The price for the work is the same as for replacing the entire clutch.

The process of replacing the release bearing of a VAZ 2113-2115 is clearly shown in these videos:

Symptoms of malfunction

The clutch release bearing itself will tell you that its life is already at its limit or it has completely failed. Therefore, your task is to monitor the behavior of the car and promptly respond to emerging problems.

Sign of breakdown

Peculiarities

The clutch pedal becomes hard to press

Initially, this only causes a certain discomfort, since you have to apply more force to change gears. But this phenomenon should not be ignored. Bearing needs to be replaced

Difficulty engaging first and reverse gears

This indicates that the bearing's life is gradually ending, and you urgently need to take action. If you don't do this, you will soon be unable to engage any of the gears in your transmission.

The car doesn't pull

There is a loss of efficiency and performance of the box. Consequently, it is not possible to change gears correctly and quickly. This makes maneuvers, overtaking and a banal increase in speed more difficult.

This happens occasionally at first, and therefore almost every time you change gears. This symptom clearly indicates that it is time to send the car to a service station or garage for repairs.

Old and new VP

If the release bearing is not replaced in a timely manner, the gearbox will soon fail, the clutch will not work, and this will lead to dire consequences.

Consequences of wear

If you have encountered such a phenomenon as wear of the clutch release bearing, then you probably often drive your own VAZ 2109. It is time and the many kilometers traveled that lead to such breakdowns.

If the bearing is not replaced in time, this will result in the following consequences:

Any subsequent trip may be the last for the car;
The clutch disc will overheat, which will lead to destruction of the lining;
In addition to replacing the bearing, you will have to replace the entire clutch disc;
It is not uncommon for the clutch to fail. If you hear an incomprehensible noise coming from the clutch system, then there is a problem with it.

Signs and causes of clutch failure

The VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099 clutch consists of a basket, a pressure bearing, a drive and driven disk. The main signs of a clutch malfunction are clutch slipping and incomplete disengagement:

When switching off is incomplete (the pedal is pressed), there is difficulty shifting gears with the engine running, noise and crackling noises when changing gears, and large free play of the clutch pedal.
When the clutch “slips” (the pedal is released), a burning smell may be felt in the cabin from the burning of the clutch disc linings, the car’s dynamics will deteriorate, the engine may overheat, and fuel consumption will increase.

In addition to the clutch disc itself, the release bearing can also fail - it serves to smoothly engage and disengage the clutch. When the release bearing wears out to the limit, you can hear a characteristic squealing sound - this is a sure sign that the bearing needs to be replaced. The cause of clutch failure may also be a breakdown in its drive mechanism, for example, a break or jamming of the clutch drive cable, a breakdown of the lever system, a fluid leak from the hydraulic drive if the clutch is hydraulic, or other similar breakdowns in the drive.

By the way, when replacing the release bearing at a service station, they may advise you to also replace the clutch disc. Usually, if problems begin with the clutch, it is better to replace all these parts, because replacing the clutch is very difficult: you need to remove the gearbox. But if someone wants to save on this, then all clutch parts can be purchased separately.

To work you will need the following:

wrenches 8, 10, 13, 17 mm;
torque wrench, 8 mm socket;
jack;
container for draining oil;
inspection hole or lift.
flat screwdriver, hammer.