Lada Granta running lights do not work

02/28/2021 6,063 VAZ Granta

Author: Ivan Baranov

Daytime running lights are a type of optics used to identify a vehicle on the road at any time of the day. Since the installation of this lighting is mandatory in our country, our compatriots have many questions regarding their operation. Read more about in what cases the DRL lamp of a Lada Granta W21/5W is changed and how to replace it yourself.

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Comments 13

In short, I'll take it under warranty, let them rack their brains.

That's right, then write down what the trouble was. Good luck

I went today under warranty and attended the inspection. In short, the problem was in the lamps themselves (When you start shaking them, they light up), it turns out they shook the lamps for me at TO-3 and said that there was a bad contact.

yes, they are fooling our brother ((

Are all the previous ones intact?

Is there an abnormal alarm?

Are all the previous ones intact?

If the front burnt out, then both would stop burning. (I tried)

As I understand it, you didn’t ask the reason at the maintenance? And they didn’t say it themselves either?

At first I didn’t ask, but the next day when the light stopped burning I asked. He told me that the contact was bad in the connector itself. (Although I tried the same thing myself, it didn’t help me.)

Damn, masters)) So take it back to them - let them establish contact)) It’s good if it’s a trifle, but if there’s something wrong with the wiring, then it’s fraught with trouble in the future. I read somewhere about problems with DRLs when the signal was connected incorrectly, the lamps burned out there too... Right now I can’t find the source. I read it on the Lada Granta Club, it seems. But you yourself don’t associate any of your recent manipulations? Maybe he changed something?

When you turn on the car, the DRLs come on and two lights come on. When the headlights are turned on, the right DRL lamp does not light up, and also when the daytime running lights are turned on, all the lamps are on, but the right one is not.

The fuses are fine. Also, in the parking mode, the right brake light does not light up, although when the brake is pressed, it lights up. What could be the problem?

  • You turn on the dimensions - the light and backlight do not light up - 3 answers
  • Electric headlight corrector for Lada Granta – 1 answer
  • Removing headlights on Grant - 1 answer

Change the light bulbs. The lamps have two filaments - P21/4W and W21/5W.

So, flies separately, cutlets in the other direction! DRLs are DRLs, dimensions are dimensions. DRL - thick filament in the lamp, 21 watts, size - thin, 5 watts. In this case, the lamp burned out. And it’s not a fact that the new one is good, the lamps themselves burn out once a month, then one, then another.

Got distracted. It would be a good idea to check for DRL voltage on the cartridge. If indeed the new lamp is working. Or replace the left lamp with the right one.

Further. Daylight. I don't understand this term. No, in general it’s clear that there are fluorescent lamps in lamps, but I don’t know how to apply this to a car.

Further. Right stop. Here, as I understand it, this is a “luxury” package; I won’t offer anything other than diagnostics of the body electronics unit.

If you are sure that the fuses are all right (although there is a weak contact on them), then there remains a weak contact on the lamps or the absence of ground. Electrics is the science of contacts. The fuses are intact, the lamps are intact, only the contacts remain (they are weak or completely absent). Multimeter in hand and ring.

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Now we will try to figure out why the low beams on a Lada Granta may not turn on.

What's happened?

And everything turns out to be extremely simple. On modern Lada cars, engineers have come up with electronic protection against short circuits (short circuit), which has a non-volatile memory! It is hidden in an additional body electronics module (EMM), to which the daytime running lights circuit is connected.

This block is located on the front passenger side:

Two other significant blocks are located nearby: the central body electronics unit (CBKE, also known as VSM) and the Era-Glonass unit.

The comfort unit (EMM) is responsible for the operation of the running lights (DRL), side lights, and also for the operation of the windshield wipers. If abnormal situations, such as short circuits, occur in these circuits, the built-in protection, which is assembled on the VNQ6004SA driver chip, turns off the output voltage to the circuit and then stores the state thanks to the built-in non-volatile memory. The protection will be removed only after receiving the appropriate command from the controller.

Main reasons

Consider in detail the most basic reasons for such a breakdown.

Fuses blown

The fuses in the mounting block have burned out (F12 - right side, F13 - left side). Their rating is 7.5A.

F12 - left headlight, F13 - right headlight

The fuses in the photo are marked with an arrow. (top - left headlight, bottom - right headlight)

In this case, the voltage regulator may be faulty. As a result, a power surge occurred and both fuses were blown. It is necessary to check the voltage of the electrical circuit under load.

If the problem persists after replacing the fuses, it is better to contact an automotive electrician.

If you are on the road at the time of a breakdown, you can install a “bug” instead of fuses.

Carefully insert a piece of wire into the fuse connectors, preferably one, the left fuse. In this case, do not put the cover of the mounting block back on, as you will have to conduct a visual inspection; the wire may begin to heat up.

Important. We do not recommend using bugs or higher rated ceramic fuses. Try not to overload the electrical circuits, for example, when installing a cigarette lighter splitter, route the power cable directly to the battery through an additional fuse.

Low beam bulbs burnt out

“Right low beam” burned out

The low beam bulbs burned out, both of them at once, either a coincidence, or a short one, or the low beams were not turned on at idle. At high speeds, the current is greater, so both can burn out at once. The voltage regulator may also be faulty.

The low beam contact relay is broken

Location of the contact relay in the mounting block

The low beam may not turn on due to a broken contact relay. This breakdown is a very common reason. Due to the design of the relay and its low cost, the contact group may become stuck.

  1. Open the fuse box (mounting block).
  2. We take out the relay number K9.
  3. It is advisable to take a known good relay for a test drive. Or you can lightly tap the old relay with a key or coin.
  4. Reinsert the contact relay.
  5. Checking the low beam operation.

Light control module failure

Light control module on Grant

This fault should be checked last. The cost of a new part is about 900 rubles, so the easiest way is to replace the module with a known good one, for example, take it from another car.

Grant providers recommend installing the MUS from a luxury model.

If your high beams also do not work, then check whether voltage is coming to the MUS.

How to change the running light bulb on a Lada Granta

The running light lamp appeared in the arsenal of modern cars relatively recently. The technical manual of the domestic Lada Granta model clearly states that the role of daytime running lights (DRL) is assigned to side optics, the design of which is double-filament. When the ignition is turned on, the thread responsible for the operation of the DRL lights up first, and with the activation of the headlights, the side lighting is simultaneously turned on. The power of the first of the designated threads is 21 W, and the second is 5 W.

For running lighting, the manufacturer uses ordinary DRL lamps. The most undeniable advantage of such devices is their low cost, but there are more than enough “cons”. This is evidenced by customer complaints, which reflect dissatisfaction with the dim light beam of a yellowish tint and the low service life of the lighting device. Many car owners are interested in the question: how to change the running light bulb.

This arrangement of facts forces Lada Grant owners to “rush” in search of analogues of DRLs and replace them at the first opportunity. LED DRL lamps without sockets or conventional devices, but with increased light output and a more pleasant color spectrum of radiation, are suitable as such devices. There are plenty of such lamps in the assortment of any specialized store. If the owner likes LED technology, then experts advise taking into account their brightness parameter. What to do when you need to replace the running light bulb.

About lamps with increased visual comfort

For the Lada Granta, such a running light lamp is a conventional lighting device, made using standard halogen technology, but having a more pleasant white light spectrum. Their main drawback is reduced visibility in rainy weather. This is explained by the tendency of white light to produce more glare from wet surfaces and raindrops compared to a yellow tint.

To be more specific at this point, among the most common halogen products that are readily purchased by many owners are the following:

  • OSRAM and General Electric;
  • "Mayak" and "Philips";
  • "Narva", "IPF" and "Hella".

This is not the entire recommended list of devices. If you ask about the priorities of the car manufacturer, they like OSRAM H4. These devices have two versions:

The first version has full compliance with legislative regulations in terms of ensuring safe conditions of use, including: current strength, cut-off line, illumination, beam delivery geometry and power.

The second option has an advantageous difference from the first in terms of increased resource, but is inferior in the power of the light beam. However, purchasing devices is one thing; you need to know how to change the running light bulb with your own hands.

If replacement of lamps is required, it is carried out using the following simple method

We answer the question of how to change the running light bulb on your own.

  1. We provide comfortable access to the lighting device on the left (upstream) side. For this purpose, we remove the housing of the filter component of the air intake tract and disconnect the sensor, its supply cables and pipes.
  2. The body itself is forced to move upward and to the left.
  3. To provide access to the headlight on the right side of the car, it is necessary to remove the decorative engine cover. Here we temporarily unscrew the oil filler plug, then unscrew the 4 fastening units and pull the cap (snap it off).
  4. Removing a used DRL lamp involves first rotating the socket counterclockwise, after which it is removed from the socket. Having taken out the old lamp, we mount the new element into the cartridge groove. Now we screw the cartridge itself into the block.

Attention! Changing halogen devices does not “tolerate” touching the surface of their bulbs with your fingers.

This is due to the risk of leaving marks from sweat and fat, which negatively affects the service life of the device. We recommend using cotton gloves when working that do not have rubber coating on work areas. Before installing lamps on LADA Granta, wipe their bulbs with alcohol-containing wipes. This is exactly how the running light bulb is replaced.

Trunk mat for Lada Granta liftback

Comparison of West and Grant comparison

LED running lights

The indicated process of replacing lamps on a Lada Granta does not imply that the owner has super abilities, but is associated with some minor nuances.

  1. Replacing the running light bulb with LED analogues involves performing it simultaneously in both headlights.
  2. When installing LED devices, it is necessary to observe the polarity of their connection.

Attention! If you do not take into account the need to ensure polarity, this leads to instant failure of the lighting device itself. In addition, the fuse protecting the DRL circuit falls into the risk zone.

To check the polarity of the lights on the LADA Granta, you should use a tester with the voltmeter mode turned on. Before removing the used lamps, turn on the DRLs. When the contacts of the receivers receive voltage, we bring the voltmeter probes (red and black) to their surface. We look at the readings and, if we find a negative value, this indicates a violation of the order (polarity) of the connection. In this case, the digital tester displays a “minus” on the screen, and the analog one “drives” the arrow below “zero”.

Features of installation of LED DRLs

If you couldn’t find devices for the Lada Granta without bases, then you can stop at using conventional products. Here you will need to manually remove the base, and its released contacts will need to be adjusted to the mounting holes.

Once the procedure is completed, replaced devices should not be thrown away. This is explained by the need to comply with regulations governing regulatory and technical requirements for aspects of daylighting, which requires a visit to the technical center. If this is neglected, then there is a possible risk of prohibiting the operation of a car with lighting equipment modified in this way during the next technical inspection.

Today, the market network is able to offer a lot of LED devices for LADA Granta, with different lighting spectrums. However, regulations say that only white or yellow tints are permissible for DRLs, and other alternatives are prohibited.

Devices based on LED technology, including DRL lamps, differ from halogen lamps in having relatively lower energy consumption. This will further reduce the load on the battery. If you forget to deactivate the DRL at night, you will still minimize the risk of draining the battery.

The design of the Lada Granta lighting system requires the presence of a relay in the circuit, which is responsible for ensuring the DRL functionality. In addition, this device provides power to the brake lights and injector.

Due to the reduced power consumption of LED devices on LADA Granta cars, the relay is capable of generating incorrect readings, complaining about a malfunction of the DRLs. With such a picture, the running lights lamp on the “tidy” will be activated with an annoying frequency, and the built-in diagnostic complex will emit sound signals.

To eliminate the problem, you will need to replace the standard panel with an export analogue installed in European versions of the Lada Granta. We described above how to change the running light bulb.

Source: https://Vaz-Lada-Granta.com/elektrika-tormoza/lampy-dho.html

If all else fails

If none of the above helped you, then most likely there is a break in the circuit somewhere. It could appear as a result of:

  1. mechanical impact (mice, rodents);
  2. time (the wiring has deteriorated);
  3. overheating of the wire and damage to its insulation.

This is a job for a professional electrician. The algorithm of actions is as follows.

  1. We look at the voltage on the fuses. There should be 12 volts constantly.
  2. We look at the voltage on one of the 33 contact chips. We need one with gray-black and gray wires in the corner part. These are the wires for the low beam headlights.
  3. We look at the voltage at the headlight terminals.

If there is voltage everywhere, then the problem is an open circuit between the mounting block and the headlight.

Lada Granta running lights do not work

The question is that the DRL light does not work (does not light up), but when the headlights are turned on, it lights up. Can someone tell me the reason?

Comments 15

Hello! Who can tell me that the brake system warning light is constantly blinking, the fluid level sensor is normal, off, the parking sensor is working, I checked with a jumper and it does not go out, Lada Granta car, thanks in advance!

I have the same problem... I changed the lamp and three days later it burned out again (you need to look for diodes that are better than 30 rubles each.

The light bulb is definitely burnt out, it is a two-filament light bulb. I had it too.

both DRLs are on the same fuse F23 10 Amp. So anyway, it's a light bulb. And no offense, of course, but starting a discussion about the light bulb, it seems to me, is overkill.

This is one filament that has burned out in the lamp!

If the fuse had burned out, then the left tail light, the left DRL and the front light would not have lit up (there is one fuse per side)… it’s just the thread that’s burned out

there is a two-contact lamp. There are two threads, maybe one is dead. On the contrary, the marker did not light up, but the DRL did light up. I changed the fuse and it worked)

Do you remember the fuse number?

left clearance F10.DRL F 23

There is a two-filament lamp, one DRL filament burned out

I support, one filament has burned out, you can check it visually, change the lamp, or immediately install diodes and bend the contacts, then the fire will burn out and nothing will burn out :)

Which contacts need to be bent?

I support, one filament has burned out, you can check it visually, change the lamp, or immediately install diodes and bend the contacts, then the fire will burn out and nothing will burn out :)

I inserted an LED lamp, the fuse burned out (right row, 4th from top to bottom). I changed the fuse, but the problem remained! The right side and front and rear markers do not light up, the DRL on the right also does not light up. The fuse is intact!

Now we will try to figure out why the low beams on a Lada Granta may not turn on.

How to replace daytime running lights on a Grant with your own hands, step-by-step instructions

When choosing LED lamps for a car, most people do not even know the requirements for their brightness, although this is the most important thing to know. It usually turns out that when shopping in online stores, you listen to the advice and recommendations of consultants from the store, because a specialist advises, and often they offer you to try: bulbs for daytime running lights (DRLs) at 400-500 lm; for low beam 700 lm; LEDs in fog lights (PTF) with a luminous flux of 600 lm; they will tell you about each one that it shines brightly and is suitable, although this is not the case.

As a result, you install them, they do not give the desired result, you remain dissatisfied and throw your purchases on the far shelf in the locker.

lamp is a lighting device for daytime running lights. In cars of this brand, the function of such lights is performed by dimensional lamps.

Main reasons

Consider in detail the most basic reasons for such a breakdown.

Fuses blown

The fuses in the mounting block have burned out (F12 - right side, F13 - left side). Their rating is 7.5A.

F12 - left headlight, F13 - right headlight

The fuses in the photo are marked with an arrow. (top - left headlight, bottom - right headlight)

In this case, the voltage regulator may be faulty. As a result, a power surge occurred and both fuses were blown. It is necessary to check the voltage of the electrical circuit under load.

If the problem persists after replacing the fuses, it is better to contact an automotive electrician.

If you are on the road at the time of a breakdown, you can install a “bug” instead of fuses.

Carefully insert a piece of wire into the fuse connectors, preferably one, the left fuse. In this case, do not put the cover of the mounting block back on, as you will have to conduct a visual inspection; the wire may begin to heat up.

Important. We do not recommend using bugs or higher rated ceramic fuses. Try not to overload the electrical circuits, for example, when installing a cigarette lighter splitter, route the power cable directly to the battery through an additional fuse.

Low beam bulbs burnt out

“Right low beam” burned out

The low beam bulbs burned out, both of them at once, either a coincidence, or a short one, or the low beams were not turned on at idle. At high speeds, the current is greater, so both can burn out at once. The voltage regulator may also be faulty.

The low beam contact relay is broken

Location of the contact relay in the mounting block

The low beam may not turn on due to a broken contact relay. This breakdown is a very common reason. Due to the design of the relay and its low cost, the contact group may become stuck.

  1. Open the fuse box (mounting block).
  2. We take out the relay number K9.
  3. It is advisable to take a known good relay for a test drive. Or you can lightly tap the old relay with a key or coin.
  4. Reinsert the contact relay.
  5. Checking the low beam operation.

Light control module failure

Light control module on Grant

This fault should be checked last. The cost of a new part is about 900 rubles, so the easiest way is to replace the module with a known good one, for example, take it from another car.

Grant providers recommend installing the MUS from a luxury model.

If your high beams also do not work, then check whether voltage is coming to the MUS.

DRL lamps on the Lada Granta - causes of burnout, features of choice, step-by-step replacement instructions

When choosing LED lamps for a car, most people do not even know the requirements for their brightness, although this is the most important thing to know. It usually turns out that when shopping in online stores, you listen to the advice and recommendations of consultants from the store, because a specialist advises, and often they offer you to try: bulbs for daytime running lights (DRLs) at 400-500 lm; for low beam 700 lm; LEDs in fog lights (PTF) with a luminous flux of 600 lm; they will tell you about each one that it shines brightly and is suitable, although this is not the case.

As a result, you install them, they do not give the desired result, you remain dissatisfied and throw your purchases on the far shelf in the locker.

lamp is a lighting device for daytime running lights. In cars of this brand, the function of such lights is performed by dimensional lamps.

Reasons for failure of daytime running lights

Light of a standard Granta DRL lamp installed from the manufacturer

There can be many reasons for the failure of daytime running lights on a Lada Granta, here are the most common ones:

  1. The lamp has burned out. Probably the most harmless reason, since repairs will require replacing the light bulb.
  2. Failure to observe polarity when installing lighting sources;
  3. For some reason the turn signal channel stopped working;
  4. the safety element or relay has failed, it is necessary to check its functionality;
  5. Filament burnout;
  6. Damage to wiring;
  7. Failure or poor contact on the steering column switch or headlight switch.

In case of frequent burnout of lamps in daytime running lights, we recommend that you contact a specialist to find out the reasons, since malfunction and damage to the wiring can lead to more serious consequences.

When should you change lamps?

There are no specific regulations or recommendations regarding the timing of replacement of lamps in daytime running lights on the Lada Granta. The part is replaced after burnout. (out of order)

We recommend that you read the article: How to replace low beam lamps on a Lada Granta

Features of choice

The necessary increase in brightness or service life of light bulbs can only be achieved by replacing existing lights. Car enthusiasts often replace the halogen lighting sources installed in Lada with LED ones. As a rule, even a person without experience in replacing lamps can cope with this task.

However, you should know a few nuances. Simply placing a new diode in the right place is not enough - the process has its own characteristics.

Lamps for increased visual comfort

Although the standard lamps with a yellowish dull tint in the running light system may still remain in good working order, many Lada Granta owners strive to immediately replace them with halogen ones with bright white light. The reason for this is to increase visual comfort. It is also noted that this can emphasize the exterior profile of the car.

Comparison of DRL lamps - the photo shows a standard (installed from the manufacturer) and a luxury lamp

Halogen bulbs from the following manufacturers are very popular among car enthusiasts:

  1. Philips.
  2. Lighthouse.
  3. OSRAM.
  4. IPF.
  5. General Electric and some others.

Like other modifications, halogen lamps for DRLs still have the same characteristic number of disadvantages. First of all, this is increased heating and, because of this, the shelf life decreases with increasing power. For this reason, when choosing such sources for the Lada Granata, you should take into account that they can be produced in two versions:

The first option meets all legal requirements, but at the same time has average durability. The second one is more economical and, although it does not shine as brightly, it lasts longer.

Daytime running lights based on diodes

Before you start installing daytime running lights with LEDs on your Lada Granta yourself, you need to remember: side lights should under no circumstances be used as daytime running lights. They simply do not have enough light power to do this.

As for the Granta daytime running lights, they can be upgraded very quickly and quite easily. Neither without financial investments, but nothing is free in this world.

To tune the daytime running lights of Lada Granta, it is enough to resort to replacing halogen lamps with LEDs.

You can buy diode lamps at almost any auto store. They will cost many times more than standard factory-assembled incandescent lamps, but, on the other hand, their durability and efficiency are also higher. In the mind of a pragmatic motorist, the scales should tip in favor of a more attractive, albeit expensive, product.

The installation process of the Lada Granta DRL lamp

When choosing an auto led lamp, the car owner must take into account: the running light lamps do not have a base. Although, if you purchased LEDs with it, it’s not the end of the world. There are two ways out of the problem:

  1. exchange of LEDs, subject to keeping the receipt, or established contacts with the seller;
  2. neat separation of the base from the LED light bulb.

If all else fails

If none of the above helped you, then most likely there is a break in the circuit somewhere. It could appear as a result of:

  1. mechanical impact (mice, rodents);
  2. time (the wiring has deteriorated);
  3. overheating of the wire and damage to its insulation.

This is a job for a professional electrician. The algorithm of actions is as follows.

  1. We look at the voltage on the fuses. There should be 12 volts constantly.
  2. We look at the voltage on one of the 33 contact chips. We need one with gray-black and gray wires in the corner part. These are the wires for the low beam headlights.
  3. We look at the voltage at the headlight terminals.

If there is voltage everywhere, then the problem is an open circuit between the mounting block and the headlight.

When you turn on the car, the DRLs come on and two lights come on. When the headlights are turned on, the right DRL lamp does not light up, and also when the daytime running lights are turned on, all the lamps are on, but the right one is not.

How to replace running lights on a Lada Granta

On the Lada Granta car, the dimensions are combined with daytime running lights in one lamp. During the ignition, the DRLs are turned on, and when the headlights are turned on, they go out and the side lights turn on. The main advantage of light sources is their efficiency compared to low-beam headlights, as well as lower fuel consumption.

DRLs should not be confused with side lighting. It is much less bright and indicates the size of the car when it is parked at night. If we compare this light with other methods of lighting a car, it is the safest (has no glare, is equipped with sufficient brightness) and consumes the minimum amount of fuel.

The factory equipment provides for the presence of the simplest incandescent lamps in the Lada Grant. Their characteristics are well known to car enthusiasts - the light in the lamps burns dimly, with a yellowish tint, and they have a short service life. For this and other reasons, car enthusiasts sometimes need to replace their lights.

Standard DRL lamps

The characteristics of external light sources are established by Russian legislation. To drive safely on Russian roads without breaking laws, you need to:

  • place light bulbs on the front of the Lada Granta body at a height of 25 to 150 cm from the ground;
  • maintain the minimum distance between light bulbs (60 cm);
  • buy products with an area from 40 to 200 cm2.

Lamps used on the Lada Granta car

Types and causes of breakdown

These devices have several types:

  • low beam headlights. Switched on while the vehicle is running. In Russia it is allowed to use them as a light source for daytime driving;
  • high beam headlights. Operate at reduced voltage. This helps to reduce the intensity of light, which in some cases does not increase the visibility of pedestrians and cyclists on the road;
  • fog lights. Their use in Russia is permitted (clause 19.4 of the traffic rules);
  • front turn signals;
  • individual light sources at the front of the vehicle with specific light intensity patterns.

Main reasons

Consider in detail the most basic reasons for such a breakdown.

Fuses blown

The fuses in the mounting block have burned out (F12 - right side, F13 - left side). Their rating is 7.5A.

F12 - left headlight, F13 - right headlight

The fuses in the photo are marked with an arrow. (top - left headlight, bottom - right headlight)

In this case, the voltage regulator may be faulty. As a result, a power surge occurred and both fuses were blown. It is necessary to check the voltage of the electrical circuit under load.

If the problem persists after replacing the fuses, it is better to contact an automotive electrician.

If you are on the road at the time of a breakdown, you can install a “bug” instead of fuses.

Carefully insert a piece of wire into the fuse connectors, preferably one, the left fuse. In this case, do not put the cover of the mounting block back on, as you will have to conduct a visual inspection; the wire may begin to heat up.

Important. We do not recommend using bugs or higher rated ceramic fuses. Try not to overload the electrical circuits, for example, when installing a cigarette lighter splitter, route the power cable directly to the battery through an additional fuse.

Low beam bulbs burnt out

“Right low beam” burned out

The low beam bulbs burned out, both of them at once, either a coincidence, or a short one, or the low beams were not turned on at idle. At high speeds, the current is greater, so both can burn out at once. The voltage regulator may also be faulty.

The low beam contact relay is broken

Location of the contact relay in the mounting block

The low beam may not turn on due to a broken contact relay. This breakdown is a very common reason. Due to the design of the relay and its low cost, the contact group may become stuck.

  1. Open the fuse box (mounting block).
  2. We take out the relay number K9.
  3. It is advisable to take a known good relay for a test drive. Or you can lightly tap the old relay with a key or coin.
  4. Reinsert the contact relay.
  5. Checking the low beam operation.

Light control module failure

Light control module on Grant

This fault should be checked last. The cost of a new part is about 900 rubles, so the easiest way is to replace the module with a known good one, for example, take it from another car.

Grant providers recommend installing the MUS from a luxury model.

If your high beams also do not work, then check whether voltage is coming to the MUS.

If all else fails

If none of the above helped you, then most likely there is a break in the circuit somewhere. It could appear as a result of:

  1. mechanical impact (mice, rodents);
  2. time (the wiring has deteriorated);
  3. overheating of the wire and damage to its insulation.

This is a job for a professional electrician. The algorithm of actions is as follows.

  1. We look at the voltage on the fuses. There should be 12 volts constantly.
  2. We look at the voltage on one of the 33 contact chips. We need one with gray-black and gray wires in the corner part. These are the wires for the low beam headlights.
  3. We look at the voltage at the headlight terminals.

If there is voltage everywhere, then the problem is an open circuit between the mounting block and the headlight.

Lada Granta running lights do not work

The question is that the DRL light does not work (does not light up), but when the headlights are turned on, it lights up. Can someone tell me the reason?

Comments 15

Hello! Who can tell me that the brake system warning light is constantly blinking, the fluid level sensor is normal, off, the parking sensor is working, I checked with a jumper and it does not go out, Lada Granta car, thanks in advance!

I have the same problem... I changed the lamp and three days later it burned out again (you need to look for diodes that are better than 30 rubles each.

The light bulb is definitely burnt out, it is a two-filament light bulb. I had it too.

both DRLs are on the same fuse F23 10 Amp. So anyway, it's a light bulb. And no offense, of course, but starting a discussion about the light bulb, it seems to me, is overkill.

This is one filament that has burned out in the lamp!

If the fuse had burned out, then the left tail light, the left DRL and the front light would not have lit up (there is one fuse per side)… it’s just the thread that’s burned out

Features of choice

The necessary increase in brightness or service life of light bulbs can only be achieved by replacing existing lights. Car enthusiasts often replace the halogen lighting sources installed in Lada with LED ones. As a rule, even a person without experience in replacing lamps can cope with this task.

However, you should know a few nuances. Simply placing a new diode in the right place is not enough - the process has its own characteristics.

Main reasons

Consider in detail the most basic reasons for such a breakdown.

Fuses blown

The fuses in the mounting block have burned out (F12 - right side, F13 - left side). Their rating is 7.5A.

F12 - left headlight, F13 - right headlight

The fuses in the photo are marked with an arrow. (top - left headlight, bottom - right headlight)

In this case, the voltage regulator may be faulty. As a result, a power surge occurred and both fuses were blown. It is necessary to check the voltage of the electrical circuit under load.

If the problem persists after replacing the fuses, it is better to contact an automotive electrician.

If you are on the road at the time of a breakdown, you can install a “bug” instead of fuses.

Carefully insert a piece of wire into the fuse connectors, preferably one, the left fuse. In this case, do not put the cover of the mounting block back on, as you will have to conduct a visual inspection; the wire may begin to heat up.

Important. We do not recommend using bugs or higher rated ceramic fuses. Try not to overload the electrical circuits, for example, when installing a cigarette lighter splitter, route the power cable directly to the battery through an additional fuse.

Low beam bulbs burnt out

“Right low beam” burned out

The low beam bulbs burned out, both of them at once, either a coincidence, or a short one, or the low beams were not turned on at idle. At high speeds, the current is greater, so both can burn out at once. The voltage regulator may also be faulty.

The low beam contact relay is broken

Location of the contact relay in the mounting block

The low beam may not turn on due to a broken contact relay. This breakdown is a very common reason. Due to the design of the relay and its low cost, the contact group may become stuck.

  1. Open the fuse box (mounting block).
  2. We take out the relay number K9.
  3. It is advisable to take a known good relay for a test drive. Or you can lightly tap the old relay with a key or coin.
  4. Reinsert the contact relay.
  5. Checking the low beam operation.

Light control module failure

Light control module on Grant

This fault should be checked last. The cost of a new part is about 900 rubles, so the easiest way is to replace the module with a known good one, for example, take it from another car.

Grant providers recommend installing the MUS from a luxury model.

If your high beams also do not work, then check whether voltage is coming to the MUS.

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