Trunk lid VAZ 2114 – which one to choose, why it rattles


door adjustment VAZ 2114-09

Adjustment is a flexible concept; adjustment can include both external adjustment - door closing tightness, sticking doors, non-opening doors, jammed doors, adjustment of alarm locks (unlocking-locking), as well as sagging doors, doors after an impact or after replacement, as well need adjustment.
We do not only adjust, replace handles, mechanisms, window regulators, but also replace car doors. Adjustment, repair of locks, door mechanisms, trunk locks, adjustment of opening and closing, silent closing (SILENT) for VAZ 2114
No.

NamePrice: rubles
1.Replacing handles250
2.External handles250
3.Replacing locksfrom 100
4.External locks200
5.Replacing mechanisms250
6.Internal mechanisms250
7.Replacing power windowsfrom 400
8.Window liftersfrom 1200
9.Replacement of side glassfrom 400
10.Side windowsfrom 400
11.Elimination of door sagging200
12.Replacing door hinges1500
13.Opening doorsfrom 200
14.Three-chamber door seals700
15.Opening the trunk100
16.Trunk seal200
17.Silent door closing500 – 4 doors

Since 2005, the seals on the VAZ 2114 have been set from the factory to “ten” - such seals are empty inside, only in the corners you can feel the hard “bananas”. In fact, on the VAZ 2114 it is better to install “nine-chamber” seals - they are three-chamber, and they help the door close more tightly, making the car quieter and warmer.

Spare parts for doors: mechanisms, handles, euro handles, locks, electric locks, window regulators, door and trunk seals, clips, rods available.

We carry out all this work professionally, come to us at the Brothers Gavs auto repair shop, phone: 8 (937) 281-7000.

replacing the lock cylinder on the handle of a vase.

Lada 2115 BLACK STAGE › Logbook › Adjusting the locks. We close the doors quietly and easily.

As you all know, Russian cars are like that joke: after assembly, treat them with a hammer and chisel - and then it will drive well.

Initially, the locks on the doors worked fine for me, but after replacing the standard door seals with 3-tube ones, I had to slam quite a bit to close them. Naturally, I didn’t like it. In general, having quickly studied the design of the lock, I realized that the response cylinder, mounted on the body on which the lock mechanism snaps, is not positioned exactly opposite this very mechanism. On one of my doors, the plastic of which is covered with a silent bolt, a small wear appeared from the edge of the lock groove into which this cylinder fits. So I started adjusting it. To adjust the lock, there is no need to disassemble the door and get into the lock itself. Everything is done on the mating part of the lock, which is located on the car body.

To adjust, we need a powerful Phillips screwdriver.

By simple adjustments it is quite possible to achieve almost identical operation of all locks. The locks of all doors (and the trunk, too) are adjustable quite normally. More precisely, it is not the lock itself that is adjusted, but the counter part on which the lock snaps into place.

The mating part of the lock is attached to the side with two bolts for a Phillips screwdriver and a central bolt. If we leave the side bolts and the central bolt, this whole structure can be moved a short distance in any direction, we need to find the optimal position and the door will normally close about four centimeters with a slight push.

Also, my back door was sticking out a little, so I slightly pushed the cylinder inward. And now the door does not protrude.

After adjustment, firmly tighten all three bolts and enjoy quiet, easy to close and open doors. (but it is not exactly

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