The condition of the car body is affected not only by the number of accidents and collisions. The state in which your car remains depends on the degree of contamination of the metal by corrosion processes, on the number of small pebbles, salt and sand that literally fly into the elements of the car body at speed. In order to delay the moment of replacing body elements as much as possible, it is necessary to periodically carry out anti-corrosion treatment of the machine thresholds. To carry out such procedures, it is not necessary to go to a service station, since everything can be done independently. In order to fully understand the procedure itself, start by studying this material.
Treatment of thresholds - visit a service station or do it yourself?
Modern car manufacturers perform anti-corrosion treatment on the entire car right at the factory during the manufacture of the car. But you can often hear that it is advisable to repeat this procedure once every two years, so that the vehicle does not break down prematurely. If you repeat the anti-corrosion treatment procedure in time, it will be possible to keep the factory coating in its original condition for as long as possible. This way, the most vulnerable and weak components of your car, that is, cavities hidden from view, welding seams, wheel arches, bottom, sills, connections with bends, will be protected.
If you compare anti-corrosion treatment performed at home and by a specialist at a service station, the difference will be noticeable due to the fact that professionals use special equipment designed specifically for performing such types of work. Special devices greatly simplify the process of washing the underbody of the car, after which it is forced to dry. Moreover, station workers carry out complex processing of the car, creating several coatings.
You can try to do similar work at home, but be prepared to spend a significant amount of money due to the complexity of the work and lack of experience. Taken together, these disadvantages will not allow you to save money as a result.
For the first time, it is advisable to carry out the anti-corrosion treatment procedure from specialists, after which it will be possible to proceed independently , since it will only be necessary to maintain the already made coating in proper condition. Specialists will be sure to install fender liners and mud flaps, which will create reliable protection for the outside of the car from damage by water, sand and gravel.
Do-it-yourself anti-corrosion treatment of car thresholds
You can re-treat your car's thresholds yourself. To perform this procedure, you will need to purchase an anti-corrosion agent such as Novol, Otrix, Car System, Rand,
rust preventative, sandpaper or a regular wire brush, as well as gloves and a respirator for personal protection. When purchasing an anti-corrosion agent, you will need to pay special attention to such characteristics as expiration date, purpose, as well as features and indications for use. In the future, you will definitely need to read the instructions on the packaging of the product and follow them.
Before starting work, the car must be thoroughly washed, removing all dirt, after which the car must be dried. Try to open access to any hard-to-reach place, and if the work is done on the bottom of the car, then the car will need to be driven onto an overpass. Rust must be removed using sandpaper or a wire brush. After this, you will need to coat all surfaces with a rust preventative, after which the car needs to be allowed to dry.
We recommend: Anti-gravel treatment of wheel arches and the underbody of the car
After such procedures, you can proceed to treating the surfaces directly with the anti-corrosion agent that you purchased. It must be applied evenly; sills and other elements of the car that require protection must be covered with an even layer of the composition. The product should dry within 24 hours. When using the robot, it will be necessary to remove all nearby heating devices and sources of open flame due to the fact that anti-corrosion agents tend to ignite quickly. In order not to harm yourself and your health, experts recommend using personal protective equipment (respirator, gloves).
Treatment of thresholds with anti-gravel - sequence of operations
You need to treat car thresholds with anti-gravel according to a similar scheme:
— the car must be thoroughly washed and dried;
— rust and peeling paint must be removed with sandpaper;
- using newspapers and tape, you need to cover all those areas that are adjacent to the thresholds in order to prevent them from getting dirty, you need to do a similar procedure every time you work with the car’s coating using a spray can;
— the can must be shaken for 3–5 minutes;
— this is followed by the application of anti-gravel, maintaining a distance of 25 cm from the surface;
— the created layer must be left for 5 minutes to dry;
— you need to repeat the procedure a couple more times;
— the car must be dried in the most normal conditions for at least two hours.
Surely, when buying anti-gravel, the store consultant will tell you a few phrases that there is another cool product for treating car thresholds - gravitex , supposedly it works more effectively, but may cost a little more. In essence, gravity does not differ from anti-gravity, and the procedure for applying the new product is unchanged. Before purchasing such an anti-corrosion product, you should carefully study the packaging, which will describe the characteristics of the substance. You should pay attention to whether this product paints or does not paint the surface on which the substance is applied. At this time, you should carefully protect your respiratory tract and skin of your hands, and before starting work you should read the instructions.
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Why exactly thresholds?
Coating exterior body elements with anti-gravel and other agents with an anti-corrosion effect has long proven to be highly effective. But before you do the processing yourself, you need to clarify some points.
Thresholds are an important part of the body. They require increased protection because they are located in the lower part of the car body. Because of this, they are actively affected by various factors in the form of temperature changes, reagents on winter roads, low temperatures, intense heat, high humidity, etc. Small stones, sand, pieces of crushed stone and gravel fly from the road. They cause microdamage, destroy the paint layer, and minimize the work of factory anti-corrosion treatment.
All this leads to the fact that it is on the thresholds that the first pockets of corrosion most often appear, gradually turning into large red rust spots.
I think it’s not worth reminding once again why rust is dangerous and what consequences it can lead to.
It is important to understand that you need to fight corrosion not after it actually appears. Timely prevention and high-quality metal preservation will protect against rust and prevent it from appearing on the body of your car.
There is a huge list of products intended for anti-corrosion treatment. The choice is huge, so everyone will find an option according to their wallet and needs. Some products are priced very high, others belong to the budget category. But they are all called anti-gravel for thresholds. Most often they are produced in special cans and metal containers. Moreover, preference should be given to spray cans. Mastics require a more complex and lengthy application procedure.
But regardless of the release form of the chosen product, anti-gravel must be applied correctly, following a certain sequence. You will decide for yourself what to blow out, cover or fill with on the thresholds in your car.
Application of fiberglass and glue
For moderate damage, the method of sealing holes with fiberglass is often used. When this area has been processed and cleared of layers of paint and rust, it is necessary to cut several overlays from fiberglass, the size of the hole plus 2 centimeters. This area should be pre-primed and allowed to harden.
Auto repair kit
An overlay is applied to the dry surface and secured with a mixture (polyester or epoxy resin + glue). The next “part” is applied and also fixed. Thus, all the fiberglass parts are glued, placing them one on top of the other. To prevent them from sagging or deforming, you should put a lining. When the resin and glue have dried, you need to treat the work area and paint it.
Fiberglass
Preparing a car for anticorrosion
Protecting a car from rust involves several stages. First of all, the car must be prepared for the process. To do this, you need to clean it from existing rust. Most often it accumulates in the bottom area, so special attention is paid to cleaning it. To do this, you should:
- Wash the surface of the machine thoroughly. It is advisable to go to a car wash, where the car will be thoroughly cleaned of any dirt.
- To remove rust, it is better to use special metal brushes. A drill will help you quickly clean the bottom.
- You should first remove the fender liners from the car, since very often rust forms under them.
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After this, you can treat the underbody of the car with an anti-corrosion compound.
It is usually applied in a thick layer, which takes several days to dry. It is prohibited to operate the machine during this period.
How to choose an anti-corrosion agent for a car
To avoid mistakes when choosing, you should take into account the condition of the vehicle, the location and method of processing. But effective protection of the body and other parts of the car can be guaranteed if the instructions for using anticorrosive agents have been read and strictly followed.
Car owners who live in regions with sudden changes in temperature should take a closer look at the RunWay line. If rust is already present on the car, you should choose Hi Gear. When you need a reliable and extra-elastic product, you should take a closer look at Movil, rubber mastics. For luggage compartments where there is no paint layer, bitumen-rubber mastics are suitable.
When choosing a product, it is important to understand that it will not be possible to find a car anticorrosion agent that will solve all problems at once. It must be selected taking into account the characteristics of the machine. That is why there is such a variety of products on sale.
Before purchasing, you should study the functionality of each, read reviews and advice from experienced car owners. There are budget and expensive anticorrosion agents on sale, with and without the function of reducing noise in the cabin.
Processing stages
It is important to understand that this problem can affect everyone. Yes, on expensive cars, the factory anti-corrosion treatment is of better quality and therefore lasts longer.
But when the car is in difficult conditions, constantly in contact with strong reagents, abrasives in the form of sand or gravel, even the most reliable anti-corrosive agent will not withstand it for long. Especially on the rapids. Among the most vulnerable cars are the following:
- Niva Chevrolet;
- Daewoo Nexia;
- Daewoo Matiz;
- Chevrolet Lanos;
- VAZ 2110;
- Nissan Premiere;
- UAZ Patriot;
- Ravon R4;
- Chevrolet Lacetti;
- Mitsubishi Galant;
- BMW E34;
- Hyundai Accent;
- Lada Vesta;
- VAZ 2114, etc.
I think there is no point in listing further. It is much more important to understand the correct sequence of activities.
In total, 3 stages can be distinguished. Namely:
- preparation for the process;
- vehicle preparation;
- application.
Actually, it is in this sequence that we will analyze the question.
Tools and materials
Please note that any anti-gravel is a very harmful composition for human health. Therefore, you should not allow it to come into contact with the skin, mucous membranes, and especially the nasal and oral cavities. You should arm yourself not only with tools and materials, but also with protective equipment.
As a result, your set should consist of:
- work clothes;
- gloves and glasses;
- safety shoes;
- respirator;
- brushes for metal processing;
- sandpaper;
- clean water;
- anticorrosive;
- degreaser (ordinary White Spirit will do);
- rust converter;
- rags;
- construction hair dryer.
Although you can make anticorrosive yourself, I advise you to use high-quality and proven products.
Preparing the machine
The next step is to prepare the car. You can watch the video and at the same time plan your further actions, visually learning the subtleties and nuances.
Having treated the thresholds first, I recommend that you subsequently think about protecting the body from chips and scratches in order to maximize the service life of the anti-corrosion agent.
Preparing a car involves performing the following tasks:
- dismantling protection;
- washing the car and especially the thresholds;
- thoroughly dry the machine;
- installing a car on an overpass or lift;
- removing all existing traces of corrosion with sandpaper or a polishing disc;
- applying a rust converter;
- degreasing;
- re-drying;
- covering with masking tape areas that are located near the thresholds, but will not be treated.
Preparation is of great importance for the final result of the anti-corrosion treatment. It is especially important to get rid of any existing rust and any drops of water. A hair dryer or some kind of heater, for example, will help here.
Anti-gravel treatment
And now the final stage. No less responsible and important. The complexity of application largely depends on the form of release you buy. Spray cans are more expensive, but much more convenient and effective at an excellent level.
The essence of the procedure is as follows:
- Shake the can thoroughly before use;
- Holding the container approximately 15-20 centimeters from the threshold, begin spraying;
- The product should be applied as evenly as possible;
- Depending on the product and manufacturer, the interval between layers should be at least 5 minutes;
- For best results, it is recommended to apply at least 3 layers of high-quality anti-gravel;
- To speed up drying, use a hair dryer;
- Remove the masking tape;
- Put the protection in place;
- Leave the car in a dry, ventilated garage for at least 2-3 hours.
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In the case of mastic, you will have to spend more effort and time. This is a much dirtier method of anti-corrosion treatment, since the substance is applied with a brush. In principle, the procedure will be similar.
The thicker the layer of mastic, the more effectively the anticorrosive agent will work. Therefore, there is no need to particularly regret the remedy. After applying the first layer, be sure to wait for it to dry completely. Moreover, a hair dryer is unlikely to help in this case. Heating has the opposite effect, that is, the mastic again takes on a liquid flowing form. You can dry it simply by blowing air at room temperature.
Usually one layer of mastic dries in 2-3 hours. To apply at least 2-3 layers, you will have to spend quite a lot of time. But mastics in cans are much cheaper than cans of anti-gravel. It's up to you to choose.
Safety precautions
Safety rules that must be followed when painting a car:
you need to start work in special clothes made of thick fabric;- eyes are protected with goggles, and hands with rubber or cotton gloves;
- Fire extinguishing means should always be freely available;
- smoking in the room where painting work is carried out is prohibited;
- After working with paints and varnishes, hands should be washed;
- hair must be hidden under a headdress;
- You can only work in a well-ventilated area.
Making and applying anticorrosive coating to a car using a gun
Anti-corrosion treatment of a car is an expensive service in a car service center. Therefore, many people spend it at home. To do this, you need to know several features of the process being carried out.
Treatment of internal and hidden cavities (spars, pillars, thresholds)
Do-it-yourself treatment of hidden car body cavities is carried out using liquid materials with a low degree of viscosity containing corrosion inhibitors. To apply them, use a special air spray (can or aerosol).
These devices help treat the car's thresholds from the inside. It is recommended to proceed to protecting the remaining parts after these elements have dried.
Anticorrosive on the bottom and arches of the car
Protecting the underbody of the car from corrosion is one of the most important stages. It must be carried out on a lift, which allows full access to the bottom of the machine. At home, the lift can be replaced with an inspection hole (in extreme cases, the car is turned on its side). Anticorrosive agent is evenly applied to the bottom and arches.
Do-it-yourself anti-corrosion treatment of the underbody of a car is carried out using a roller, brush or brush. The process is carried out manually. It is necessary to treat the underbody of the car against corrosion at least 3-4 times. In this case, after applying each layer, you should wait some time until the coating dries.
Full anti-corrosive treatment of the car interior
Inside the cabin, only the floor needs to be treated, since it is most vulnerable to corrosion. To do this, remove all seats and rugs, and then begin the process. The mixture is applied with a brush or roller. If it's cold outside, you should warm up the car interior. The air temperature must be at least 15 degrees Celsius. The substance should be applied evenly, in several layers.
Door and body treatment
When processing doors, special attention should be paid to welds. The preparation should be applied to the seams in 2 layers, using a special device - a construction gun. Treating the car body against corrosion includes protecting the hood and trunk. The mixture is applied only to the inside so as not to damage the paintwork.
If it is possible to paint the car, it is recommended to apply at least one layer of anti-corrosion compound to its entire surface. Depending on the type of anticorrosive, its service life may vary. Cheap options last for about 2-3 years, after which they need to be updated. More expensive mixtures for anti-corrosion treatment retain their properties for up to 5 years.
How to treat hidden cavities
All products for hidden cavities have several important properties in common:
- penetrating ability, the compositions have special fluidity and surface tension forces;
- wettability in relation to all types of factory coatings;
- adhesion, that is, sticking to prevent oxygen and moisture from entering the protected parts;
- the ability to remain after conditional drying in a semi-rigid state so as not to crack and continue to stick to parts;
- content of corrosion inhibitors.
When choosing a specific product, you should carefully read all available ones.
The cheapest option is “Working out”
In ancient times, it was customary to close the ventilation holes and pour used transmission or engine oil into the sills. Under no circumstances should you do this now.
Oil does not protect against anything, but it perfectly promotes the peeling of existing coatings and the development of under-film corrosion, after which through holes suddenly form in the metal.
Movil and Pussalo
Movil is a product of Soviet design and has not been produced for a long time. What is now sold under this name has nothing to do with the then popular product and cannot be recommended for the protection of thresholds. The very fact of using someone else's brand says a lot.
Pussalo is a petroleum-based product, suitable for preserving metal parts, but also not suitable for thresholds. But it will be almost impossible to clean damaged cavities.
Modern anti-corrosion agents
Many formulations of varying quality are sold specifically for application into hidden cavities. You need to focus on the manufacturer’s fame and positive reviews.
The selection conditions are traditional - a reputable manufacturing company, not the lowest price, a reliable supplier and the direction of action of the product indicated in all documents and on the company’s website. Selecting a specific cylinder will not be difficult, and the protection properties are given above.
