Knock sensor VAZ 21214 signs of malfunction » Do-it-yourself car repairs

The knock sensor on Niva 21214 is a special device used to detect and prevent possible detonation of an internal combustion engine during operation.

Many people are interested in where this sensor is located on the Niva-21214 car. It is located next to the oil filter. Below is a table showing the most common models of knock sensors used in the Niva-21214 car, as well as their cost.

Knock sensor	Cost, in rubles
DD Lada Kalina/ Priora/Vesta, VAZ	360
DD Eng. dv. analogue 18.3855,0261231046 VAZ	340
DD Lada Kalina/ Priora/Vesta, VAZ	390

There are other models of sensor injectors used on the Niva-21214. The car owner can independently decide which device he will need and purchase it.

How to check the functionality of the sensor

The knock sensor, like other devices installed in the car, tends to periodically fail. This can be caused by various reasons, and often a minor breakdown can be accompanied by a complete failure of such an important component as the engine.

Among the most popular reasons for failure of the knock sensor are:

wire break;
insulation damage;
breakage of the shielding braid;
problems in the operation of the sensor itself;
breakdowns in the software or hardware of the internal combustion engine control unit.

Checking the knock sensor will allow you to diagnose the malfunction. This is carried out using special measuring instruments or through visual inspection of the device.

So, for example, if there is a suspicion that a short circuit has occurred during the operation of the sensor, you will need to turn off the ignition and disconnect the device from the electronic control unit (ECU). Only after this will it be possible to begin checking the structure using an ohmmeter.

Sometimes the functionality of the wiring connected to the sensor is checked using a voltmeter. This is done with the ignition on. The device measures the indicators between the socket contacts and ground.

It is recommended to check the sensor itself using a multimeter. To do this, during testing, you should create artificial vibration by knocking on the device body. If the device data does not change, it means the element has failed.

Location of fuse and relay blocks Lada 4×4

If during the inspection it turns out that the camshaft position sensor itself has failed, then it must be replaced. As a rule, these units are non-repairable, since their body is sealed and cannot be disassembled. The sensor is inexpensive, and the replacement procedure is simple, and even a novice car enthusiast can handle it.

The sensor replacement algorithm is as follows:

With the engine not running, disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
Disconnect the “chip” from the camshaft position sensor (as when checking).
Depending on the vehicle model, it is necessary to remove parts that prevent access to the sensor. For example, on modern cars like the Lada Vesta, it is necessary to remove the bracket for auxiliary units.
Using a wrench, unscrew one or two mounting bolts, depending on the type of fastening. The size of the wrench can be different, usually for VAZs it is a 10 mm wrench.
After dismantling the mount, you must similarly remove the sensor from its seat.
Installing a new sensor is performed in reverse order.
Connect the negative terminal to the battery.

Error P0340 appears on the self-diagnosis system if the crankshaft rotates. Code P0342 - the camshaft electrical circuit shows a low signal and code P0343, accordingly, shows a high signal. It is necessary to check the wiring - for this purpose it is good to use an oscilloscope or other testing device.

Mechanical specialists, even if the sensor is in good working order, still recommend changing it every 4-5 years - such prevention will protect you from breakdowns and accidents, especially since the part is very cheap despite its importance. After all, the semiconductors inside the sensor react poorly to temperature fluctuations - remember your school physics course

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The preparatory stage will require the collection of certain tools:

additional lighting, if required;
Phillips screwdriver;
rags;
new controller;
key to 10.

The sequence of actions is described as simply as possible:

First open the hood.
The tie from the rubber pipe of the air duct must be released.
We remove the air duct itself.
The controller is easy to find in the first part of the block.
Remove the terminals and unscrew the bolt. The main thing is that the phase is maintained.
All that remains is to remove the sensor and replace it with a new part.
We put on the terminals and mount the air duct pipe back.

Symptoms of sensor failure

As already noted, damage can be determined visually. If the knock sensor is faulty, it will affect the performance of the entire vehicle.

Among the most common symptoms indicating a breakdown in the knock sensor are:

Reduced engine power. Compared to ordinary situations, it will be quite noticeable. So, for example, when operating a car when transporting goods or passengers, the movement of the vehicle will be difficult, the engine will practically stop responding to the accelerator pedal.
Increasing the length of acceleration. Basically, this symptom is considered a consequence of the previous point.
Increased fuel consumption. This is explained by the fact that the engine control unit ceases to control the ignition angle level.
Smoky exhaust. A large amount of smoke from the car's exhaust pipe can signal a problem. However, such a symptom may not always be associated with a malfunction of the knock sensor.
The occurrence of detonation effect in the internal combustion engine. A fairly striking sign that should serve as a signal to the car owner about the necessary replacement.

Also, symptoms of a motor failure include a lighted indicator on the dashboard. The “Check-engine” icon can indicate several types of breakdowns, but it is recommended to check the knock sensor first.

More information about testing and troubleshooting

Practice shows that a malfunction of the camshaft position sensor does not lead to engine failure and immobilization of the vehicle. The engine continues to operate with some deviations that interfere with the normal operation of the car. Symptoms of DPRV failure are quite vague and similar to problems with other measuring elements:

Unstable engine operation at idle and while driving.
Instead of dynamic acceleration, after pressing the gas pedal, there is a series of small jerks and a sluggish increase in speed.
The power of the power unit decreases. The effect becomes noticeable when the load increases - on a hill, sharp acceleration, while towing a trailer.
The Check Engine light on the dashboard does not always come on. But many drivers note that if the meter is faulty, the display flashes after the crankshaft speed increases to 3000 rpm or more.
Fuel consumption is naturally increasing.

If the measuring element is faulty, the control unit prepares and supplies an enriched air-fuel mixture to the cylinders. This results in an increase in gasoline consumption and unstable idling. Jerks and drops in power are caused by untimely supply of a spark - the controller “does not see” the end of the compression stroke in the cylinder and cannot clearly determine the ignition timing.

On various car models, additional symptoms of a malfunctioning camshaft sensor are noted:

the engine suddenly stalls while driving, but starts without problems;
cold starting of the engine becomes difficult;
on cars equipped with a robotic gearbox, difficulties arise with automatic gear shifting;
the engine “troits” - skipping ignition cycles is heard, sometimes popping sounds are observed in the exhaust manifold;
On some cars, the power plant fails due to lack of sparking.

Driving with a broken air pressure sensor is acceptable for a short period. Jerking, rich fuel mixture and electronic errors accelerate the wear of spark plugs and engine parts. After detecting the listed symptoms, you should send the car for diagnostics or find the source of the problem yourself.

Replacing the sensor

If a malfunction is detected in the operation of the knock sensor, the owner of the Niva-21214 must begin repairing or replacing the device. You can perform the procedure yourself by deciding where the sensor is located and preparing the necessary tools before starting work. These include:

screwdriver;
wrench;
13 mm head.

You will also need to stock up on a new knock sensor.

The procedure for replacing the DD is as follows:

The car owner places the vehicle in a convenient position for work.
Turns off the engine and disconnects the terminals from the battery. This is necessary for the safety of further work.
After this, you will need to remove the wire from the sensor and unscrew the bolt that secures it to the engine. The procedure is performed using previously prepared instruments.

Once this is done, you can replace the old knock sensor with a new one. It will also need to be secured with a bolt (no need to tighten it too much) and a terminal attached.

The final step involves reassembling the car structure in reverse order.

After the procedure for replacing the knock sensor is completed, the owner of the Niva-21214 will need to start the engine several times to check the functionality of the sensor and the entire car as a whole. First of all, you should pay attention to the symptoms of breakdown that were indicated above. Naturally, they shouldn't exist.

Based on this, we can conclude that the process described above is not complicated, and to replace the sensor it is not at all necessary to contact a service station. However, in order to protect yourself from possible malfunctions, you should regularly diagnose and maintain all components of the car.

The other day Jackie Chan caught fire, but I didn’t feel any changes in the engine’s performance.

Opendiag generated error P0327: Knock sensor 1 (Block 1 or one sensor), low signal level.

After the reset, if you lightly press the gas pedal, the error appears in the memory again, and later the light on the dashboard lights up. On our Internet they write that the error is not terrible, at most fuel consumption will increase slightly. But it’s still not in order, which means we’ll fix it...

Google says that this error may have several reasons: - the sensor mounting bolt is loose; — faulty wiring from the ECU to the sensor; — oxidation of contacts; - malfunction of the sensor itself.

Most of the sensors sold in stores are a lottery. They are not expensive, but there is a very high percentage of defects. Moreover, there are cases of counterfeiting, so-called “dummies”. And considering that the knock sensor in the Niva is located in an extremely inconvenient place, I didn’t really want to experiment. Solution - BOSCH knock sensor, art.: 0261231046

In addition, there is an opinion that it is better to install the knock sensor on a stud, and place a locking washer under the nut. When I bought the sensor, I talked with the seller - he also said about the pin. He also showed me this letter:

The result is this set:

Now to the most interesting part... The knock sensor is located under the exhaust manifold and covered by the starter shield:

To get more or less convenient access to it, I removed the air filter housing, the air pipe, unscrewed and moved the starter shield a little to the left, unscrewed and moved to the side the intake manifold extension:

The sensor was tightened well and the contacts were clean. I screwed the pin onto the lock. The nut was tightened to a torque of 20 Nm.

Before starting it, I reset the ECU with initialization. While driving home the error no longer appeared.

Reg.: 12/06/2004 Threads / Messages: 4024 / 23192 From: Moscow Age: 67 Car: 21214M, 2013

Alexey aka ALER.