Replacing the clutch on a VAZ 2115 with your own hands

Replacing a VAZ 2115 clutch without pit and lift

I’ll tell you about how I changed the clutch on my 15x. I’ve been driving with a dead clutch for about half a year. I’m pretty fed up with the fact that at 3rd speed, if you go to overtake, the car doesn’t listen. starts to accelerate. However, if you accelerate smoothly, 130 goes easily.

Closer to the point: Repaired in the village, 2000 rubles. The toad made me give it to the guys at the service center. I changed everything at once, it’s calmer! )) I have an article about the release lever, and KraftTech bought the clutch for 3000 wooden ones. The release lever was included in the kit, but it didn’t inspire confidence. That’s why someone else installed it. I parked the car on level ground, with the handbrake on. I secured it with bricks under the rear wheels. INSTRUCTIONS: Ask your friends about the alignment or input shaft of the gearbox, you can even use it to center the clutch disc from a “classic”. It’s better to do the work in 2m, especially after you throw off the box. I’ve already seen someone like this. Unscrew the hub nut (head 30, knob and pipe). There's a puck there, don't lose it! Let's jack it up. We unscrew the left wheel and remove it. We unscrew the ball joint (part 13). On the right side we unscrew only the hub nut, but not completely. We remove the engine protection, if there is also the left side of the engine boot (k-ch8). We remove the air filter, the battery. We jack up the car higher, put hemp, bricks or SCC blocks under the side members or sills, whichever is given what. I had these blocks. By 2 On each side. This height is enough to completely move under the car. Place a beam or piece of wood on a block or brick so as not to crush the box. We take a jack and a beam, jack up the engine. (This is how it should be!) Lay out an old blanket, climb under the car. Unscrew the rocker clamp (key 13), the gearbox cushion (17). There is also a stretcher from the engine, we also unscrew it. The key is 19. It took us a ton of effort, because it was apparently tightened with great force and without the right drive, but it will interfere. There is also a box boot, from the end of the pallet. There are 3 bolts per 10. Found it? Removed it? Let's continue. We disconnect the speed sensor on the top of the box and another one on the left. We unscrew the clutch cable with a key of 17. We remove it from the fork. We move it to the side. We unscrew the bracket for the front box cushion, on the left. There are 3 nuts. Remove the starter, wire + and red (3 nuts k-ch13). The left drive pulls out of the hub. We unscrew (k-ch13) the fastening of the ignition coil from the box. I removed the coil, for convenience. And one by one we twist the remaining bolts of the box itself, there are only 4, with a 19 head. Next, with an assistant, one from the side of the arch towards you, one from above using a mounting tool or a powerful Use a flat screwdriver to disconnect the box from the engine. It should hang on the drives. You can completely remove the gearbox because The clutch disc will still need to be centered. If you are working on asphalt, place boards and a rag so as not to damage the gearbox. When the box was detached, it hung on the drives and the left tripwire from the crab. To access the basket, pull the box and secure it with an assistant) or something. We see the basket (there are different bolts). Mine was 8. I twisted it with a cap and licked off the heads of 3. I unscrewed it with a hammer, a mat and a chisel. Then I replaced it with an M8 13x15 bolt. We take out the clutch. There should be no sagging petals on the basket, and there should be no severe abrasion in the center from the release bearing. The pressure part should not have chips, scratches, grooves and signs of overheating in the form of a purple-dark blue color. If there is one of these signs, the basket better for replacement. We look at the disk itself. It is very worn if the rivets have already begun to shine on the surface, as was the case with me, or there are no springs. Next, we check the release bearing. It is installed on the input shaft and is held by a spring. You need to bend the whiskers towards yourself and remove it. Check for torsion and play. Let’s not allow too much play in the bearing on the housing. Play in the bearing race is unacceptable! If it is not possible to replace it with a new one, put lithol-type lubricant in it, but do not overdo it. It is better to remove the excess. We put the release valve back. Check the clutch fork boot! Next, we install the disk with the basket, lean everything against the flywheel, place it on the guides and insert the centering device. We attach the basket. It is advisable to tighten it crosswise, but not critically. We screw it to the flywheel with force. Next, with an assistant, we lift the box and guide it, be careful, the gearbox is quite weighty. If the shaft does not immediately fit into the splines, turn the box a little. When the shaft is in, insert the box all the way and tighten the top bolt.

Continue in the reverse order of removal. Please note! the box may interfere with the installation of the clutch and you still have to remove it completely; to do this, unscrew the left crab and pull out the front suspension bolt so that the extension lowers and does not interfere. Unscrew the right hub nut completely, then remove the gearbox.

It took us about 9 hours with smoke breaks and lunch. We also drank beer in between)) There is nothing complicated, except if the basket bolts were torn off. Be careful there, turn the head. And to prevent the crankshaft from spinning, screw the bolt from the box into the hole next to mount the ignition module. And use a screwdriver or pry bar to stop the flywheel.

Replacing the clutch on a VAZ-2110 without removing the box - photos and videos

It is technically impossible to extend the life of a part, unless you try to change gears without using the clutch, but then you expose other components of the engine to rapid wear, which is also not good.

Clutch replacement is necessary in the following cases:

If the clutch begins to “lead”, that is, when engine power decreases.
If the clutch is not fully engaged, that is, it “slips.”
If you hear extraneous sounds when turning on - clicks, jerking, etc.
In case of unauthorized disengagement of the clutch.
In case of vibration when pressing the clutch pedal.

To work you will need:

Jack;
Inspection pit or lift;
Set of socket and open-end wrenches: “19”, “17”;
Mount or amplifier pipe.

When to replace the clutch

Replacing the clutch on a VAZ-2110 is not just desirable, but necessary if you note the following nuances:

when you start the car and feel completely wrong engine power;
you feel that the clutch does not engage completely, but only works partially;
any tapping, clicking and, in principle, extraneous sounds should alert you and lead you to believe that the clutch may be acting up;
if the clutch stalls on its own and “does not obey”;
When you depress the clutch pedal, you feel a vibration.

Also check out

Unscrew the bottom bolt that secures the starter.

Replacing a VAZ 2110 clutch without removing the box and draining the oil

Remove the 3rd transmission mounting bolt. Unscrew another nut located near the right CV joint.
Remove the torque rod mounting bolts. There are 2 of them.

Replacing the VAZ 2110 clutch

Loosen the nut located on the box control drive rod clamp and remove the rod from the box.

Replacing the VAZ 2110 clutch

Place the support under the engine, unscrew the 2 nuts that secure the rear cushion (the purpose of this is to avoid a possible breakthrough of the hoses).

Self-replacement of VAZ 2110 clutch at home

Carefully remove the gearbox from the engine and release it to the floor. It should hang on the axle shafts.

Self-replacement of VAZ 2110 clutch at home

Alternatively, replace the clutch release bearing immediately.

Clutch VAZ 2110
Clutch VAZ 2110

Assess wear, replace the disc, install a new clutch basket if necessary, check the paddles.

Assembly is performed in reverse order.

Thus, the installation of a new VAZ 2110 clutch without removing the box and draining the oil was successful.

Self-replacement of the clutch of a VAZ 2110 car on video:

Algorithm for replacing a VAZ 2115 radiator If the engine overheats greatly, a major overhaul and large cash injections will be required. To prevent this, you need to monitor the coolant level...

Installation

When installing the clutch basket and disc, it is necessary to use a simulator of the input shaft. This is necessary so that the parts fit straight. Such an alignment can be bought in a store for 100 rubles. It will also work for a penny.

When installing the box, it is important to get the pin that is on it into the engine hole. It is located in the right drive area. When we installed the gearbox, we didn’t take this fact into account and spent a long time trying to turn the gearbox.

When the box is engaged with the engine, tighten the mounting bolts, but not completely. They need to be stretched when the box sits on the pillows to prevent displacement.

There should be no problems in further stages of assembly.

Don't forget to tighten the hub nut, adjust the clutch pedal and rocker.

I hope this material will help someone when replacing a gearbox. There is practically no difference in repairing VAZ 2110 or 2114 cars. They are all fine)). Frankly, I thought it would be more difficult to change the clutch, but the main thing is to get started, and there’s nowhere to go). If possible, try to repair your car yourself. This is both saving money and gaining experience. Good luck to all.

Important features of clutch assembly

Proper assembly of this spare part at home involves taking into account some important nuances:

When you are centering a disk, you need to use a mandrel specially designed for this or equip yourself with a primary shaft. This method will allow you to place the gearbox in place.

Once the job of placing the shaft spline into the clutch splines is completed, the input shaft can be easily pulled out. The cable is attached to the fork and slightly loosened.

Subsequent adjustments are carried out only when the clutch assembly has come to an end.

Don't forget to secure the control levers and traction lever to the panel. Tighten the fasteners well to prevent them from coming loose on the road. Be sure to connect the battery and, finally, connect the filter housing that cleans the air flow.

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Source: https://logan-50.ru/otechestvennyj-avtoprom/zamena-scepleniya-vaz-2110-2114-bez-snyatiya-korobki.html

How to replace

Replacing the clutch requires lifting the front part of the Lada Samara. First of all, it is necessary to block the movement of the rear wheels using stops.

Loosen the wheel bolts and jack up the left side of the car. The distance between the front wheels and the ground must be at least 10 cm.
Place the left side on a support. For safety reasons, it is prohibited to use bricks or blocks as support - they may not be able to withstand the weight of the machine and will collapse. The use of wooden stumps is permitted.
Jack up the right side of the car and place it on a support.
Remove the wheels.
Disconnect the battery and remove it from the engine compartment.
Remove the air filter.
Unscrew the starter fastenings using a 13mm wrench. The starter can be removed from the car by disconnecting the wires.
Disconnect the “-” wire from the gearbox.
Remove the motor protection.
Disable the speed switch with the key at 13.
Place supports under the gearbox and engine.
Remove 2 cushions from the gearbox.
Unscrew the bolt securing the box to the power unit.
Unscrew the nut from the car interior using a 19mm socket wrench.
Remove the flywheel protection with a 10mm wrench.
Remove the pins from the tie rods and unscrew the nuts.
Unscrew the two bolts from the ball joints. The racks will be released and will remain hanging on the drives.
Drain ⅓ of the oil from the gearbox.
Take out the right CV joint, which is located inside. You will need a crowbar or a hammer.
Replace the bolts securing the gearbox to the power unit with the bolts of the lower suspension arm.
Remove the gearbox and move it to the left wheel. The box should lie on the transverse rod. Through the resulting gap between the motor and the gearbox it is easy to reach and replace the clutch disc, basket, and bearing.
Unscrew the bolts that connect the basket and the flywheel. For ease of removal, move the box towards the engine.
Turn the flywheel and unscrew the bolts one by one. The basket should fall onto the shaft.
Move the gearbox to the side.
Remove the clutch disc and gearbox. The release bearing is located deeper. It also needs to be dismantled and replaced with a new one.

Place all disassembled parts into prepared boxes. After installation there should be no extra ones left.

How to change: sequence of actions

The car is installed on the inspection hole. Wheel chocks are placed under the rear wheels. The front wheels are jacked up and removed.
The hood opens and both terminals are removed from the battery.
Using open-end wrenches, the air filter and the sensor next to it are removed.
Access to the clutch cable is provided. This cable is disconnected with a 10mm open-end wrench.

Clutch cable that needs to be disconnected
Now the starter is removed and the bolts on the upper part of the clutch housing are unscrewed (there are 4 of them).
The gear shift drive and the support located to the right of the gearbox are unscrewed. After this, use a 10-mm open-end wrench to unscrew the flywheel protective cover.
Using a spanner, unscrew the fastening bolts of the ball joints. Next, the drive shafts are disconnected from the gearbox and the oil is drained.

The mounting bolts of the ball joints are unscrewed
Removing the box begins with unscrewing the bolts holding the box to the cylinders. The bolts are unscrewed using a socket head 8. A wooden beam tied to a rope is placed under the box, on which it is hung next to the engine. Next, using the same 8mm wrench, unscrew the bolts that secure the pressure plate to the flywheel.

The pressure plate is unscrewed with an 8 key
The clutch pressure and driven discs are removed.

Clutch discs ready for removal
Using a screwdriver, pry up the release spring holding the release bearing, after which the bearing is removed.

The gearbox input shaft is cleaned of dirt
Access to the gearbox input shaft is provided. It is thoroughly cleaned of residual grease and contaminants. The release bearing and spring are installed in place (replaced with new ones if necessary), then the shaft is centered using a mandrel. Only after this are the clutch driven and pressure plates installed on it. Then all components of the car are reassembled.

Video: how to replace the clutch on the fourteenth VAZ model

How to install

First, a new clutch disc is installed. It is necessary to install the clutch basket on the flywheel on top of the disc. The holes for the bolts must match.

Place several bolts into the mounting holes of the box and move it towards the engine. After the input shaft hits the hole on the clutch driven disc, guide the last bolt using a screwdriver.

The clutch basket is tightened only after the input shaft enters the disc through the starter location.

Further assembly of the structure is carried out in the opposite order of disassembly.

Clutch adjustment is performed after complete assembly.

Which clutch is better to install?

There are many clutch kits on the market from different manufacturers. Lada Samara is standardly equipped at the factory with a Vazinterservice (VIS) clutch. The cost of a clutch on the market is around 1,500 rubles - this is the cheapest option.

Experts recommend not saving on the clutch and buying foreign analogues. Clutch kits from Valeo and Kraft Tech are in great demand. The average cost of a Valeo unit is within 3,000 rubles.