How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley on a VAZ 2109 with your own hands?

07/19/2021 16,905 VAZ 2109

Author: Ivan Baranov

Many car owners, especially domestically produced vehicles and used foreign cars, try to carry out most of the repair work on their own. Very often, for one reason or another, it becomes necessary to remove the crankshaft pulley of a VAZ 2109 - an injector is installed or a carburetor is installed.

There are a lot of recommendations on the Internet, after reading which you might think that everything is very simple. But one problem arises, namely removing the bolt, which is not only difficult to get to, but sometimes simply impossible to move, let alone unscrew. It's also unclear how to secure the crankshaft to keep it in place. The crankshaft pulley on the VAZ 2109 is deliberately very tightly tightened and, unscrewing it, there is a possibility of damaging various components and systems in the power unit compartment or the paint.

The difficulty is that the bolt that secures the crankshaft pulley (or nut, depending on the modification) is tightened with decent force during assembly. This was done to prevent it from spinning up while moving, otherwise the consequences could be simply catastrophic.

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Purpose

The pulley is designed to transmit torque to additional units. For this purpose, these same units have a counter pulley. It is attached to the crankshaft using a keyed connection, and fixation is carried out with a nut or bolt.

The pulley is a flat wheel with a special channel into which a rubber belt is installed. When the belt is tensioned sufficiently, it engages tightly with the pulley, and due to this, the belt drive works and transmits rotation. These elements for modern cars are made mainly from steel, aluminum, and less often from cast iron.

Replacing the front crankshaft oil seal on a VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099

Welcome! Today you clicked on this link not by chance, since you are looking for detailed instructions on how to replace the front crankshaft oil seal, then we will provide it to you. The instructions for replacing the oil seal will apply only to cars of the Samara family. At the end of the article you can find a visual video that describes in detail the replacement of the crankshaft oil seal!

Where is the front crankshaft oil seal located? • It is located in the oil pump cover itself, or to be more precise, it is located on the toe of the crankshaft. In order to see it you will have to remove the timing belt cover. (You will learn how to remove the timing belt cover in this article as we proceed)

• When the cover is removed, turn your attention to the lowest crankshaft pulley, which is indicated by a red arrow in the photo. It is under this pulley that the front oil seal is located.

When should you replace the front crankshaft oil seal? It must be replaced if:

1. The appearance of various kinds of cracks, breaks and defects on it.

2. The oil seal must also be replaced when it becomes oily, that is, when oil leaks are detected on the oil seal.

Note! It is not always necessary to immediately change the oil seal when oil leaks are detected, because oil can also ooze through the oil seal for the following reasons:

How to unscrew a pulley bolt in front-wheel drive models

The bolt is used as a fastening element for the crankshaft pulley in front-wheel drive vehicles. In such models, the block is placed perpendicular to the axis of the car. Unlike dismantling the nut in rear-wheel drive modifications, this method requires more time due to the need to remove additional parts. To perform the work you need to prepare the following tools:

• A jack and an additional supporting element, a stump will do just fine.
• Standard set of automotive tools.
• A socket head, the size of which is selected in accordance with the dimensions of the bolt.
• You will also need an extension arm to make work easier.

Reasons for dismantling the crankshaft

Dismantling the crankshaft on a VAZ-2114 may be required in the following cases:

• The reason that comes first is most often the replacement of the timing belt and other work that is somehow related to the gas distribution mechanism. Work should be carried out in accordance with the regulations, or if the mechanism fails.
• Another reason for dismantling is the failure of the crankshaft oil seals. They are changed when oil leaks occur in the places where they are installed.

Pulley fastening

On all VAZ-2114 vehicles without exception, the crankshaft pulley is fixed using a massive bolt, which can cause problems when removed.

A curved spanner wrench is good for fixing.

• First of all, this is due to its location, since it is difficult to securely and securely fasten the key or socket head.
• Secondly, even if you managed to position the key correctly, you will have to make every effort to dismantle it . This is due to the fact that at the factory it is tightened as tightly as possible in order to avoid the facts of self-unwinding. Also, the right-hand thread may not be the best for unscrewing it, which during operation only screws the pulley in tighter and causes the part to stick.

When performing work to remove it, it is best to keep WD-40 on hand.

Tool for getting the job done

To make the work easier, you need to prepare the following tool:

• Jack.
• Wheel chocks.
• Pry bar and flat blade screwdrivers.
• A set of keys.
• Socket heads and extension.

It is best to carry out such work on a lift or inspection pit.

Engine assembly

Assemble the engine as follows.

Place a clean cylinder block on the stand and screw the missing studs into it. Install the generator mounting bracket and secure it with two bolts.

Lubricate the bearing shells and thrust half rings of the crankshaft, as well as the pistons and oil seals with engine oil. When assembling the engine after repair, install new crankshaft oil seals.

Install liners with a groove in the 1st, 2nd, 4th and 5th seats of the cylinder block, and liners without a groove in the 3rd seat of the cylinder block and in the main bearing caps. Place the crankshaft in the main bearings and insert the thrust half rings () into the seat of the middle main bearing.

Install the main bearing caps in accordance with the marks on their outer surface (). Unfold the covers so that the marks on each of them are on the side where the generator is installed. Tighten the cover bolts.

Check the axial free play of the crankshaft. To do this, turn the cylinder block with its back side up and install a stand with an indicator on it so that the indicator leg rests against the crankshaft flange. Moving the shaft up and down (for example, with screwdrivers), measure the axial free play of the shaft () with an indicator. It should be in the range of 0.06–0.26 mm. If the stroke is greater, then bring it back to normal by replacing the old half-rings with new ones or installing half-rings of increased thickness.

Using mandrel 67.7853.9571, press the rear crankshaft oil seal into the holder (). Place the holder with the oil seal on the mandrel 67.7853.9572 and move it from the mandrel to the crankshaft flange. Place a gasket under the holder and attach it to the cylinder block with bolts and spring washers.

Install the flywheel on the crankshaft so that the mark (cone-shaped hole) near the rim is opposite the axis of the crankpin of the fourth cylinder. Install the flywheel washer and bolts. Lock the flywheel with clamp 67.7820.9526 (see) and tighten the fastening bolts. Apply UG-6 sealant to the flywheel mounting bolts before installation. To ensure that the sealant adheres securely, degrease the bolts and threaded holes in the crankshaft before applying it.

Select pistons for cylinders according to class and one weight group and assemble the pistons with connecting rods, as indicated in the “Connecting rod and piston group” subsection. Using the bushing from kit A.60604, insert the pistons with connecting rods () into the cylinders.

The kit includes bushings of normal and repair sizes of pistons. Therefore, it is necessary to select a sleeve suitable for the given size of the piston being installed. You can also use the adjustable bushing 67.7854.9517.

Install the bearings into the connecting rods and connecting rod caps. Install the connecting rods and caps onto the crankshaft journals and tighten the connecting rod bolts. The connecting rod caps must be installed so that the cylinder number on the cap is opposite the cylinder number on the lower end of the connecting rod.

Using mandrel 67.7853.9580, press the crankshaft front oil seal into the oil pump cover. Fill the oil pump with some engine oil and rotate the drive gear several times. Install the oil pump with the crankshaft front oil seal on the mandrel 67.7853.9580 and turn the drive gear to a position so that it can be placed on the crankshaft journal. Move the pump from the mandrel to the shaft, install a gasket under the pump and attach it to the cylinder block.

For proper installation of the pump, two guide pins () are pressed into its housing, which must fit into the corresponding holes in the cylinder block.

Insert the oil receiver with the O-ring into the hole in the oil pump, attach it to the oil pump and to the cover of the second main bearing of the crankshaft (see).

Install oil sump 5 with gasket 4 and secure it.

Lubricate the oil filter O-ring with engine oil and install the oil filter by hand screwing it to the fitting on the cylinder block.

Insert two centering sleeves () into the cylinder block and install the cylinder head gasket over them. For a correctly installed gasket, the oil passage hole (edged with copper tape) should be in the area of ​​the 5th cylinder head bolt (see bolt number).

Rotate the crankshaft so that the pistons are in the middle of the cylinders.

Install the cylinder head, assembled in accordance with the instructions in subsection, onto the centering bushings. "Cylinder head". Tighten the cylinder head bolts in a specific sequence (). To ensure a reliable seal and avoid tightening the bolts during vehicle maintenance, tighten the cylinder head bolts in four steps:

1st step - tighten the bolts to a torque of 20 N·m (2 kgf·m);

2nd step - tighten the bolts to a torque of 69.4–85.7 N·m (7.1–8.7 kgf·m);

Step 3 - tighten the bolts 90°;

Step 4 - tighten all the bolts again by 90°.

Insert the coolant pump with the gasket into the cylinder block socket. Install the rear timing belt cover and attach it together with the pump cover to the cylinder block. Additionally, attach the cover with a bolt to the cylinder block and a nut to the stud on the cylinder head.

Insert segment keys into the slots at the front ends of the crankshaft and camshaft and install the toothed pulleys. Having blocked the camshaft pulley from turning, secure it with a bolt and washer.

Using tool 67.7811.9509, turn the camshaft until the mark on the pulley aligns with the installation lug on the rear cover of the toothed belt ().

Turn the crankshaft towards a smaller rotation angle until the alignment mark on the pulley aligns with the mark on the oil pump cover (). You can turn the crankshaft using a wrench using a bolt temporarily screwed into the front end of the crankshaft.

Install the tension roller with an axle (or without an axle if the roller has a plastic rim) and a spacer ring and secure it in the position of minimum belt tension.

Place the timing belt on the crankshaft pulley and, while tensioning both branches of the belt, put the left branch on the coolant pump pulley and place it behind the tension roller. Place the belt on the camshaft pulley and lightly tension it with the tension roller, turning the roller axis counterclockwise. When installing the belt, avoid sharp bends.

Rotate the crankshaft two turns in the direction of rotation and check that the alignment marks ( and ) are aligned. If the marks do not match, then loosen the belt tension, remove it from the camshaft pulley, turn the pulley to the required angle, put on the belt, slightly tension it with the tension roller, turn the crankshaft two turns again and check that the alignment marks match.

If the marks coincide, adjust the belt tension as described in subsection. "Camshaft and its drive."

Adjust the clearances in the valve mechanism as indicated in the “Cylinder Head” subsection. Install the front timing belt cover and secure it with bolts.

Carefully place the gasket into the groove of the cylinder head cover along the entire perimeter. Install the cover on the cylinder head, put the rubber bushings on the studs and attach the nuts and washers. If the bushings show signs of destruction, replace them with new ones. Tighten the nuts evenly in several steps until the washer rests on the stud. Remember that the tightness of the cover depends on the thoroughness of all installation operations.

Wrap the spark plugs and coolant temperature gauge and oil pressure warning light sensors into the cylinder head.

Install the outlet pipe 3 () of the cooling jacket with a gasket on the cylinder head and secure it with two nuts. Install the gasket and attach the flange of the inlet pipe 1 of the coolant pump to the cylinder block. Place the hoses leading to the thermostat onto the pipe and supply pipe, install thermostat 2 and secure the hoses with clamps.

Install the auxiliary housing with the O-ring on the cylinder head and secure it with a bolt. When installing the housing, pay special attention to the position of the sealing ring in the groove, since when tightening the nuts, it may jump out of the groove and bite between the edges of the groove and the surface of the cylinder head. If the sealing ring shows signs of being bitten, it must be replaced with a new one.

In accordance with the instructions in the “Fuel Pump” chapter, install the heat-insulating spacer with gaskets, the pusher and the fuel pump.

Lubricate with engine oil and place the O-ring on the flange of the ignition distributor. Attach the sensor-distributor to the body of the auxiliary units in such a position that the middle mark on the flange of the sensor-distributor is opposite the mounting lug on the body of the auxiliary units (

). At the same time, install the high voltage wire bracket under the upper fastening nut. The ignition sensor-distributor shaft is connected to the camshaft shank in only one position. Therefore, before installation, rotate the shaft so that the cams of the shaft coupling fit into the grooves of the camshaft shank.

Place gaskets on the cylinder head studs, install exhaust manifold 1 () and tighten the central nut securing it. Then install the inlet pipe 3, warm air intake 4, bracket 2 of the coolant pump inlet pipe and secure them with nuts.

Install the crankcase exhaust ventilation hose and secure it with clamps to the pipes of the block and cylinder head cover. Install the oil level indicator.

Place the generator drive pulley on the crankshaft and secure it with a bolt and washer. Install tension bar 1 (see) and generator. Place the belt on the crankshaft and generator pulleys and adjust its tension as indicated in the “Generator” subsection.

Install the carburetor heat shield, spacer and carburetor. Secure it with nuts and close the top with a technological plug.

Install the gasoline supply hose from the fuel pump to the carburetor and secure it with clamps. Install the hose of the vacuum regulator of the ignition sensor-distributor, as well as the hoses for supplying and discharging fluid from the cooling system to the carburetor.

Install hoses going to the heater on the outlet pipe of the cylinder head and on the inlet pipe of the coolant pump and secure them with clamps.

Connect the high voltage wires to the ignition distributor and to the spark plugs. Secure the wire comb in bracket 2 (see).

Fill the engine with oil through the filler neck on the cylinder head cover.

How to remove the crankshaft gear of a VAZ 2109

We wondered how to change the crankshaft oil seal on a VAZ from 08 and higher yourself, then we came to the right place. I will change the front oil seal on a VAZ 2109 injector, explaining and showing in the photo how to do it at home. The front crankshaft oil seal is replaced when oil leaks from under it, but the driver cannot always correctly determine the location of the oil leak. I had a case when I made a mistake, determined that the oil seal was leaking, but it turned out to be a completely different reason for the oil leak.

Looking at the injector engine below in the photo, I immediately determined that the front crankshaft oil seal was leaking, or oil was leaking from under the oil pump gasket. Having examined it more closely, I realized that there was no leakage from under the oil pump, which means that only the crankshaft seal remains. When I got to the oil seal, I was stunned, it was not leaking, and an even bigger question arose, where the oil was leaking from. A sign of a leak in the front crankshaft oil seal on front-wheel drive VAZs, the crankshaft area is in oil, the timing belt is in oil, this was in this injector.

Having gone through all the oil channels in the engine in my head, I decided to look at the oil pressure sensor, it is on the heads, so it’s a bastard and leaked from under the plastic, but with the rubber cap on it was not visible (I apologize, I didn’t take a picture of it, there was no camera) . Photo. An injection engine with a sign of oil leakage through the front oil seal. Oil from the oil pressure sensor, along the block under the iron boot cover, flowed onto the oil pump, which gave a sign of a crankshaft oil seal leak. Now I’ll be smarter, and you will need it.

I ask the driver, strangely the sensor is leaking, but the oil pressure is showing, he answers, the pressure control light in the car has probably burned out, so the pressure is not shown, but the engine light is on all the time, although the car is working normally. It became funny to me, it means there is pressure or not, the main thing is the car is moving, but when it seizes, then you will know that the oil pressure has disappeared. I replaced the sensor and there was no more oil leak. If the oil pressure warning light had worked in this car, then of course the reason would have been immediately discovered, but the control light does not light up, the oil pressure sensor does not light up, it is silent about such a malfunction, I go to change the oil seal. During my practice I have seen enough miracles of drivers, but they are not decreasing.

Possible faults

Part designed to last for 10 years.

List of possible problems:

• a burst rubber layer, which causes noise when the engine is running (a sign is the characteristic hum and timing noise);
• spontaneous unscrewing by cut parts;
• worn grooves, which affect premature belt wear;
• when beating during an accident, part of the part may break off, which leads to further breakdowns (therefore, after an accident, it is important to check the technical serviceability of the AvtoVAZ);

When purchasing a functional disk separately, you must choose the original part, no matter how much it costs. This contributes to reliable and long-lasting operation of the vehicle. Even if a simple part is turned, the size may not match.

Features of work

At first glance, there is nothing difficult in simply removing the bolt securing the pulley to the engine crankshaft flange. However, this is not quite true. The crankshaft pulley bolt very rarely unscrews and always sticks. Therefore, there is a risk of breaking it. First we need to get to this pulley. To do this, unscrew the bolt securing the generator to the tension bar. The latter is attached to the engine cylinder block.

The generator is moved towards the engine, and the drive belt is removed from the pulleys. It can be rivulet type or serrated. Now, having reached the desired element, proceed to further actions.

How to replace the crankshaft oil seal?

On most internal combustion engines, if oil oozes from under the crankshaft, this indicates worn out seals. Their purpose is to seal as much as possible the hole in which the crankshaft is installed. They prevent lubricant from leaking out of the internal cavity. There are front and rear oil seals. One is located on the pulley side, the other on the flywheel. It is easier to replace the front crankshaft oil seal.

On some vehicles, the location of the cuffs may differ. For example, on rear-wheel drive classic Zhigulis, the oil seal is placed in the crankshaft shield behind the support bearing. But on VAZ 2109, 2110, Lada Granta, Priora and Kalina, the oil seal is most often located in the cylinder block.

The rapid abrasion of the cuff is not surprising. Its resource is limited, since it is constantly in contact with the moving crankshaft. In addition, the seal is exposed to high temperatures. Therefore, even the highest quality products last no more than 200 thousand km of car mileage. Engine overheating, as well as the use of dirty or low-grade engine oil, further reduces its service life.

The crankshaft seals are replaced at the same time. In other words, if only the front or rear element is damaged, it is still better to replace both.

Below are detailed instructions for replacing car crankshaft oil seals:

The rear oil seal can only be pulled out after dismantling the gearbox and clutch mechanism. After removing the old seal, the seat must be cleaned. Only then is a new oil seal installed.

On many cars the flywheel is also removed. First, its position relative to the crankshaft is noted. Then the fastening bolts are unscrewed - so that the flywheel does not rotate, it is held in place by a mounting bracket.

An example of replacing crankshaft oil seals on an Opel Astra:

Removal and installation of the front crankshaft seal are carried out in the usual way.

On many cars, including VAZs, on the rear side of the crankshaft, the oil seal is located in a special aluminum holder. Before removing it, you need to clean the surface of dirt and old oil. The oil seal cage is usually secured with six main bolts. In addition, it is secured by two pallet bolts. The holder is pulled out along with the cuff. There is a gasket between it and the block, which also needs to be replaced.

It is easy to press the old cuff out of the holder. It is necessary to place the clip on soft wooden stops, then using a drift and a hammer, the element is knocked out from the back side in a circle, since it almost always fits very tightly. The seat must be cleaned - you can use a rag soaked in kerosene.

The edge of the new oil seal is coated with a small amount of fresh engine oil. This is done for ease of installation. Pressing is usually carried out with a special mandrel, but it can also be done by hand. The new cuff is hammered through a wooden adapter or an old oil seal to the intended values. The gap between it and the holder should be 0.5 mm.

Why is it difficult to remove the pulley?

No. 1. Depending on the engine design, make and model of the car, the difficulty of removing the pulley varies. Some machines have a lot of space to comfortably carry out repair work, while others have very little free space. The pulley design elements cover the pulley.

The structure of pulleys is also different, there are 2 types:

ordinary; damper.

Damper pulleys have an additional outer ring with an elastic band in their design, which absorbs vibrations and micro-vibrations.

Before you start removing the pulley, you need to loosen the tension nuts and bolts, remove the generator and power steering belt.

No. 2. In the factory assembly, the pulley is seated on the engine crankshaft, pressed with a bolt or nut and tightened with high compression force. Thus, the factory assembly is very strong. Therefore, if you have never removed the pulley, it will be more difficult to dismantle it the first time.

In addition to tightening with the maximum permissible force with a special torque wrench, during operation, the engine becomes very hot, the threaded connection is tightened even more and sticks. And external factors influence the outside, due to which the threaded connection may be subject to corrosion.

Some engine models cannot be repaired; they are disposable. These are, for example: 1AZ-FSE, 3UZ-FSE. Each power unit was examined in detail.

No. 3. If you disengage the clutch, the engine crankshaft can be freely turned with a wrench. Therefore, in order to unscrew the crankshaft pulley nut, you need to stop the shaft from turning. If, when you press the clutch, the speeds do not change, then it is not working. Air may have entered the system. In this case, you need to bleed the clutch.

Why are special technological holes made in pulleys? In auto repair shops, there is a special device for fixing the shaft, which must be bolted to the pulley and the shaft locked.

If there is no special device for fixing the shaft, which is screwed to the pulley, then you need to install good anti-roll devices under the wheels of the car and put 4th gear on the gearbox.

Or, the third option is to rest a pry bar against the flywheel teeth and fix the crankshaft from turning while unscrewing the pulley nut.

Another option is to insert a pin into the pulley hole, and install a pry bar around the pin and the second stop, as in this figure.

Crankshaft gear: structure and functions

The crankshaft gear is the gear through which the engine equipment rotates. Depending on engineering solutions, it has the shape of a gear with teeth for a chain or belt.

Crankshaft gear for chainCrankshaft gear for beltTiming gear

As a rule, timing gears (lower) and oil pump drives are installed on the crankshaft. The gears are mounted with a tight fit, fixed on the keyway, and pressed with threaded fasteners.

Diagram of a crankshaft with gears

Folk tricks

Let's look at a few folk car tricks that have helped more than one driver.

1. Each threaded connection, by the way, not only on the part of the car, can be unscrewed by first lubricating it with a special oil, for example: HP, sunflower oil, vinegar, brake fluid.
2. In rare cases, lightly tapping the edges of the bolt and nut with a hammer or wrench helps.
3. Removing a bolt or nut does not mean removing the pulley. How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley without a special key? The pulley sits very firmly on the shaft; it can be removed using a pry bar or a screwdriver and carefully pry it off in several places.

Now comes the fun part - installing a new belt.

We check that all marks match. We first place the belt on the crankshaft and pump. Then we tighten the right descending branch of the belt and put it on the camshaft pulley and tension roller. We check all the marks again and tighten the belt with a roller. The tension is considered sufficient if, with the force of two fingers, you can twist the longest branch of the belt by a maximum of 90 degrees. It’s easier to take the right branch of the belt with two fingers and twist it, if more than 90 is not very bad, but less is very bad. An overtightened belt will wear out quickly and will also reduce the life of the pump.

We place the bottom protective plastic cover. And on the crankshaft pulley we mark the twentieth tooth after skipping two teeth. We count counterclockwise.

This mark corresponds to the top dead center of the first cylinder. We put the pulley in place and the mark should be against the crankshaft position sensor. More precisely, against the small iron core of the sensor. Sometimes it gets into the gap between the teeth, this is considered acceptable. We tighten the pulley in the same way as we unscrewed it, with the help of a partner.

Pulley removal

Unscrewing a fastening bolt or nut is only half the battle. Next you need to pull the pulley out of the shaft. The pulley cannot be removed easily by hand unless its seat is broken. In addition, if the pulley fits tightly onto the shaft, it is also secured against turning by a key.

There are special pullers for removing the pulley from the shaft. There are mechanical and hydraulic pullers.

The design of a mechanical puller is simple. Usually it has three legs, with which you need to hook the pulley itself, and rest the central rod against the shaft. After which, you need to rotate the rod, the legs will straighten and pull the pulley towards you. There are even simpler pullers that you can make yourself. If there is no removable device for the pulley, then you can use pry bars. If one person is filming, then take turns, moving it a little on each side so that there is no distortion. If there are two, then at the same time, from different sides, the pulley is pressed out from the crankshaft with a sharp movement.

It also happens that when using a puller, the walls of the pulley grooves cannot withstand and break off. Therefore, when using pry bars, they must be engaged as close to the shaft as possible.

Step-by-step procedure for removing the crankshaft pulley on a VAZ-2114

Before you begin dismantling the crankshaft pulley, you need to unscrew some components and parts on the VAZ-2114.

1. First of all, we park the car and ensure it is stationary.
2. Next, loosen the generator belt tension bolt and completely remove the locking bolt.
   All bolts are indicated by red arrows.
3. Then, remove the front wheel on the right, after lifting the car.
4. We dismantle the opened mud guard of the wheel by unscrewing the bolts along the perimeter of the wing arch.
5. When access to the engine is open, we finally remove the alternator belt.
6. Next, you need to fix the flywheel so that it cannot turn; to do this, it is best to insert a screwdriver into the plug, which is located on the side of the gearbox.
   The screwdriver is inserted directly into the opening that will appear when the plug is opened. Insert the screwdriver into the hole indicated by the mark.

When the flywheel is secured, you can proceed to dismantling the crankshaft pulley.

1. We remove the timing belt, having previously set the marks.
   The marks are indicated by red arrows.
2. In order to make it easier to tear off the fixed bolt, it must be treated with the above-mentioned WD-40, and if it is not at hand, then with any liquid that, one way or another, affects corrosion, for example, brake fluid.
3. When the bolt is saturated with this mixture, you need to take a head of the appropriate diameter with an extension, and using a wrench, turn it counterclockwise so that it moves from its original location.
4. If it is not possible to unscrew the bolt the first time, it is possible to influence it by lightly tapping it with a hammer and applying a new treatment of the anti-corrosion mixture, and then again try to tear it out of place.
5. One way or another, after several manipulations the bolt will give in and come off.
6. When the bot is unscrewed, pay attention to the presence of a key on the shaft.
   It can be removed easily, the main thing is not to lose it afterwards. This work should be carried out very carefully.
7. If nothing else interferes, you can proceed directly to removing the shaft. To do this, you can use a special puller, or, if you don’t have one, use pry bars or screwdrivers.
8. Next, we move on to dismantling. When working with a puller, as a rule, no questions should arise, but when working with hand tools, you must do the following.
9. Taking two screwdrivers or “installers” we insert them between the pulley and the crankshaft on both sides.
   It is more convenient to pry off the crankshaft using a pry bar.
10. Next, with successive movements we move the part from its place of fixation, gradually moving to the beginning of the shaft.
11. Before proceeding with removal, it is best to tap the pulley itself with a wooden or rubberized hammer. This way you can avoid distortions during removal and additional exposure in the presence of corrosion and sticking.

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Comments 75

Hello everyone, at idle the pulley is chattering, but at speed it evens out, what could be the problem?

I had this. As it turned out, the corrugation of the exhaust pipe of the muffler had burnt out, gases were escaping, and this caused the pulley to wobble. Even experienced craftsmen could not find the connection, but after replacing the corrugations, the vibrations went away. Check the exhaust system for leaks. Moreover, there does not have to be a hole in the muffler; I discovered gas breakthrough through the corrugation only at high speeds.

The pulley also dangles and aligns at speed at idle, or rather dangles, checked the tightening of the bolt in the service, it is tightened correctly, the question is what. What are the consequences of a loose pulley? I read on the Internet what leads to crankshaft wear? Is it so? And is it possible to drive like this or change the pulley itself since it’s crooked?

It is undesirable to drive like this, as it creates additional variable loads on the crankshaft. There can be many reasons. Maybe the pulley is crooked, maybe the engine is worn out, maybe the engine is just unstable at idle. I actually had a problem with a burnt out muffler. Start with an inspection of the exhaust system and power and ignition systems. If they are in order, then try to change the pulley or deal with the engine.

I read your comment and don’t understand at all how a leaky muffler exhaust can affect the looseness of this pulley? There is no vibration on the engine, by the way, at idle the only problem is that it doesn’t start hot with the key, but it starts with autostart, there was unstable operation, the air leak was removed from the damper manifold, the spark plugs were changed, the armored wires of the ignition coils were all. Now this is the problem.

At that time I didn’t even understand what the connection was with the muffler. But the fact is a fact, after replacing the burnt-out corrugation, the beating of the pulley stopped. I can’t explain the physics of the process, but that was exactly the point.

Great! And we, truck drivers, just set it to speed, and the handbrake also helps.

You can’t do this on a car with an automatic transmission, even if it’s a Suzuki.))

If you look at it, on cars with automatic transmission you cannot turn the wheels with the engine not running and the transmission engaged. Why can’t you turn the engine by the crankshaft pulley with the transmission connected? Although the proposed method is sensible, it’s bad that Vitarika doesn’t make holes in the flywheel.

On cars with automatic transmission there is no mechanical connection between the engine and transmission; torque is transmitted through the torque converter only when the engine is running. Therefore, with the help of an automatic transmission, the crankshaft cannot be locked, as with a manual transmission.

Reanimation of machine drying

If you have a drying-washing machine, or you want to buy one, or you just heard about such a miracle of technology, then the post should be useful to you.

Historical reference:

There is such a miracle of modern technology - a drying machine. This is when you throw a pile of wet socks into it after washing, and take out a pile of dry and soft ones. There is a 2-in-1 machine option: washing and drying. This is when you throw in a pile of smelly dirty socks and get out a pile of dry and clean ones. [joke about missing socks] It would seem that throwing things from one machine to another is just an unnecessary task and is better than a 2-in-1 machine, they also take up less space. But purely drying ones have a lot of programs for different types of fabric, humidity sensors are more accurate and all that. The question is controversial, there is no answer.

The story itself:

As the owner of an LG 2-in-1, I couldn’t be happier that I didn’t have to look for where to hang a duvet cover and a sheet at the same time. But some time ago the machine began to not dry enough, they were dreaming about dull sensors, the warranty was already out, well, it’s bad to dry - nothing, let’s run the drying a second time, maybe it will help (it didn’t always help, by the way)

And then I came across this video: (the description is below it, you don’t have to watch it, but let it be here)

Briefly, what happens: the machine becomes clogged with microparticles of fabric in a certain place and does not allow hot air to pass through for drying, as a result of which the laundry remains wet, although it has been dried for a long time. This can be treated by removing the covers, a screwdriver, a couple of neat paws and patience.

We pulled out this slide from ours, and something else flowed down the drain during flushing:

These are all scraps from fabric fibers (not threads, but tiny specks of dust), when dry they are like felt boots, when wet they fall apart very easily. And, thank Cthulhu, it doesn’t smell of anything, because it constantly undergoes heat treatment.

And, hurray, after the first launch everything worked and the clothes were dry!

Here is another detailed video about disassembling LG*, it has text in English, but with a close-up of all the screws: *Googled for myself, so I’m too lazy to look for other brands, I recommend using English and other languages ​​to search, because the videos are not official and they are called anyhow

By the way, the bottom nasty bolt can be unscrewed through the hole on the left (with a white plastic cap) if you move the entire drum towards it, but the option with a drill is also not bad.

The moral of this story is that equipment needs to be maintained, then it will work properly. And it’s not always obvious what exactly needs to be done with it; the machine also has a filter on the bottom, like any regular one (and there’s also a lot of “dust” that collects there, but it’s easier to clean).

Dryers have a separate, large, easily removable filter, which manufacturers recommend cleaning almost every time you use it.

An additional thought: if all this accumulates in the machine, then without it all this dust would fly around the apartment, not fatally, but in fact noticeable - you spread the sheet, and it doesn’t create a nasty haze in the air.

The answer to the popular question “but the linen will all be wrinkled. “- if you take it out immediately, it won’t work, the effect is like a steam generator or even an iron. If you let it cool in the car, it’s crumpled, Christmas tree physics.

How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley yourself

One day, every car owner is faced with a problem that cannot be solved without prior preparation. One of them is removing the crankshaft pulley.

How to unscrew the crankshaft pulley

As a rule, difficulties are associated with dismantling and installing new cuffs, which become deformed and cease to perform their functions. As a result, an oil leak appears that has to be repaired. For an experienced car owner, removing the crankshaft pulley is not a problem. Another thing is for beginners who are just learning the basics of car repair.