Removing the starter Audi 80 B3 SF (carburetor) — Audi 80, l., year on DRIVE2

Audi 80 SurvivalArt › Logbook › Removing the Audi 80 B3 SF starter (carburetor)

If there is no hole, it is necessary to drive the front axle of the car onto stands, otherwise unscrewing the bolt securing the starter No. 2 to the engine will be problematic. Step-by-step instructions: Before this type of repair, the first step is to remove the battery terminal. 1.

Jack up the engine

2.

Remove the wiring clamp (1) and unscrew the engine support strut onto the mounting (2,3)

3.

Release the starter contacts (one is clamped with a nut, the other is male-female)

From the same position with zoom:

№2

It is most convenient to unscrew this bolt from below. You need to lie under the car and try to crawl to the junction of the engine and the gearbox. Behind the muffler pipe we see two caps. Unscrew the right one.

The starter can now be removed from its seat. If the starter comes out with difficulty, then perhaps it has become stuck over time or is still caught in the wiring.

Audi 80 1988, 90 l. With. - with your own hands

Cars for sale

Audi 80, 1991

Audi 80, 1989

Audi 80, 1989

Audi 80, 1987

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Comments 41

Thanks for the report. I did everything according to your report, but in the process of work new solutions appeared. If you don’t mind, I’ll add a little to your report. To understand which bolts and nuts to unscrew, look at the starter that you are going to change and visually determine where which bolts and nuts are located (this will help you unscrew the correct nuts and bolts). I would like to note right away that I have a 1.8 injector engine. The ease of removing the starter may depend on this. On the 1.8 injector, it is more convenient to unscrew the starter bolts to the engine through the battery hatch

Auto News | Thread Posted by: Audi

Audi 80 b3 for sale in very good condition.

——-Denis (Eitan) 140 thousand rubles

removal of Audi 80 B3 starter on video, professional work | AvtoStuk.com

November 22, 2015 – 2 min. Video: ———————————-Water saver – Energy saving – Liquid Chestnut – makes it easy to lose weight KSB 55.

How to get to the starter in an Audi 80 B3 – AUDI – forums on AUTO.RU

The starter does not turn on the Audi 80 B3. . but just in case, it’s more convenient to approach the contacts from below, and if you remove the starter, then the bottom bolt

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How to remove the starter of an Audi 80 b3 video: comments

I doubt it.

I heard this story about 7 years ago.

Tell me where I can find more information on this issue?

Starter Audi 80 B3

The starter is designed to spin the crankshaft to the frequency necessary to start the car engine. Elements: housing, rotor, stator, overrunning clutch, magnets, bushing, bearing, board.

Starting devices are classified into geared and gearless.

The former are characterized by a complex design and minimal electrical energy consumption. The disadvantage of the gear type is premature failure during prolonged operation at subzero temperatures.

The gearless one has a simpler design, the cost is 20% cheaper than its analogue. But it also has a drawback: the short service life of the planetary gear.

For Audi, the power of the starting device must be at least 3.5 kW, otherwise the crankshaft will not turn.

Until 1995, Audis were equipped with gearless starters.

Since the design of the trigger mechanism is quite complex, we recommend using the services of auto repair shops for preventive maintenance. Unprofessional intervention sometimes leads to undesirable consequences, major repairs, and unplanned expenses.

Starter selection

For example, on a 1990 Audi 80 B3 1.8S PM with 90 hp. With. Three starters are suitable with mono injection:

• VAG 068911024 F for 38 thousand rubles;
• Valeo 726044 for 23 thousand rubles;
• Valeo 438072 for 20 thousand rubles.

These are standard devices recommended by the manufacturer.

Now some useful information on spare parts:

• repair kit VAG 026911320 or 049911320A - 2 thousand rubles;
• bearing bushing or liner VAG 049911257A or 026911213 - 300 rubles;
• starting lever VAG 049911365A - 300 rubles;
• Ika brush unit - 700 rubles;
• bendix Bosch 1006209572, 1006209581 or 1006209997 - from 500 to 1300 rubles;
• Solenoid relay Bosch 2339303430, 2339303229 or 2339303411 - from 3 to 5 thousand rubles.

Problems with the starter, ways to solve them on an Audi 80 B3 car

• Damage to the insulating layer on conductor products;
• Poor fixation of terminals on the contact board;
• Contacts sticking due to overheating;
• Oxidation of contacts on the end switches;
• Short circuit of armature, winding;
• General malfunction of the trigger mechanism due to moisture entering the housing;
• Third-party mechanical damage to the launcher, body, anchor;
• Wear, deformation of the teeth of the drive shaft, flywheel;
• PU jamming;
• Solenoid relay sticking due to overheating.

Originals, analogues, articles and prices

*check prices at the time of purchase from an authorized dealer.

Replacing and installing a starter on an Audi 80 B3

After completing the comprehensive diagnostics, we prepare working tools and materials:

• Set of sockets, ratchet;
• Rags, lubricant;
• Repair kit for brushes, bearing, bushing.

If natural light is not enough, we use an additional light source.

Based on the inspection results, the technician chooses a repair method: installing a new trigger or partially repairing the old one. From a cost-saving point of view, it is more profitable to repair an existing starting device. Buying a new one costs 6 thousand rubles, and repairs 2 - 3 thousand rubles.

• To remove the trigger mechanism, we install the car on the inspection channel, block the wheels with wheel chocks;
• Squeeze the parking brake, remove the terminals from the battery;
• Unscrew the power terminals from the starting device;
• Remove the starter from the splines;
• We carry out troubleshooting, sort out the control unit, and install it in its original place.

We inspect adjacent parts and mechanisms, and if there are signs of wear, replace them with new ones. For example, steering tips, stabilizer links, ball joints.

The algorithm for replacing the starting device may be slightly modified depending on the location of the starter in a particular car model.

Auto News | Thread Posted by: Audi

Audi 80 b3 for sale in very good condition.

——-Denis (Eitan) 140 thousand rubles

removal of Audi 80 B3 starter on video, professional work | AvtoStuk.com

November 22, 2015 – 2 min. Video: ———————————-Water saver – Energy saving – Liquid Chestnut – makes it easy to lose weight KSB 55.

How to get to the starter in an Audi 80 B3 – AUDI – forums on AUTO.RU

The starter does not turn on the Audi 80 B3. . but just in case, it’s more convenient to approach the contacts from below, and if you remove the starter, then the bottom bolt

How to check current leakage on a VAZ 2114

How to check injectors on a VAZ 2109 injector

How to remove the front bumper on an Audi A6 C5

Tips for care and maintenance

Do not purchase parts of dubious origin. Check the catalog numbers with the data contained in the operating instructions.

Use the services of only verified, official points of sale of spare parts. For diagnostics, use certified service stations and workshops, where they provide a quality guarantee for the work performed.

Do not turn the starter for more than 15 seconds. Wait a pause and try to start the engine again.

The average service life of the trigger mechanism is 80 thousand km, scheduled maintenance every 15,000 km.

To clarify the data and resolve unclear situations, consult service station specialists, contact car dealership managers, read the instructions, watch the video.

Signs of malfunction of the starter and its parts

The original starter is made in Germany, a reliable and high-quality device. During the correct operation of the Audi 80, repair of the starter will not be necessary anytime soon.

Basically, breakdowns appear sequentially, increasing in number. If the first symptoms of malfunctions are identified and timely repairs of the Audi 80 starter are performed, it helps prevent a complete replacement of the unit and guarantees subsequent stable service.

Prevention is necessary in the following cases:

• The starter does not start when the ignition key is turned
• The device works, but the crankshaft rotates slowly, unable to obtain the required speed
• During startup, the gear engages the flywheel. In such a situation, immediate repair is needed for the starter. We disassemble and replace unusable elements.
• The device works, but the shaft itself is in its original position (does not rotate)
• The device rotates together with the flywheel when the engine is running.

Typical problems

As you would expect, the brushes on the Audi 80 B3 starter fail more often. They wear out, stick, or simply collapse. But this does not happen soon - after all, the original electric motor is made in Germany and has a long service life. Therefore, it should be looked after and operated correctly to ensure its stable service.

Preventive measures are carried out immediately as soon as:

• the crankshaft begins to rotate slowly when starting;
• Bendix clings to the flywheel;
• The starter does not stop turning after the engine starts.

What do they do in this case? Be sure to remove and disassemble the device. Then they carry out troubleshooting - I replace unusable elements with new ones. The reasons for the early failure of starter parts include: severe frost, the influence of aggressive liquids and contamination. Often the insulation is destroyed, which leads to breakdowns of the device drive.

DIY Audi 80 starter repair

First of all, it is necessary to examine the wires that run from the battery to the starter, then the wiring from the ignition switch to the relay, it may be broken. It is worth trying to swap places with a similar relay or install a new one if it is available. If the check shows that the wiring and relay are in perfect order, it is necessary to remove the starter and carry out diagnostics.

To remove the starter, you must immediately remove the ground from the battery, then disconnect the wiring from the starting device. Unscrew the two mounting bolts using a size 19 socket.

Let's move on to diagnosing and repairing the autostarter:

1. No clicks or one click. The Bendix did not go out along the rod into the starter bell, or it came out and immediately pops back in. The shaft does not turn at all or only turns for a moment. The cause may be a burnt-out coil of the solenoid relay.
2. If the shaft still rotates, this means a breakdown of the VRS. The cost of this relay is around 500 rubles and you can change it yourself within 10 minutes. To do this, you will need to unscrew the three screws securing the relay and the nut of the electric power cable that leads into the middle of the starting device. We remove the old relay and then install the purchased working one. We carry out the installation backwards. After assembly, it is necessary to check the functionality: we short-circuit the contact on the solenoid relay and the power contact. We install the starter housing to ground. There should be a click. The Bendix will come out as far as the locking ring. The shaft will begin to rotate quickly and for a long time.
3. The VRS makes clicking noises and the motor does not work. In this case, you cannot do without disassembling the starter. This problem occurs in two cases:
   The brushes in the brush assembly are burnt or worn out. Price around 500 rub.
4. The anchor is out of order. The cost is slightly less than the price of the starting device itself.

We disassemble the autostarter: remove two nuts with a 7mm wrench, unscrew two screws with a faceted screwdriver, dismantle the axle cover, washer and gaskets. Remove the back cover. We are conducting an inspection. When the brushes are worn out and do not reach the shaft, they must be replaced with purchased ones. In the case when the brushes are simply stuck, you need to rotate the shaft clockwise and counterclockwise, and they will work out. Often the connection between the brushes and the shaft is lost due to overheating and the loss of shock-absorbing properties of the springs. This problem is eliminated by replacing the springs that press down the brushes. When moving the starter, it is necessary to check that there is no play between the shaft and the housings. Play may appear due to wear of the bushings, of which there are three. One is in the mask, the other is in the cover of the brush block, and the last one is located in the middle, in the steel partition that separates the bendix from the armature.

• Most expensive problem: Damage to part or all of the armature winding. A breakdown occurs due to a long rotation of the car engine by the starter (over 40 seconds without stopping), a trip on the starter (a couple of meters is enough for a breakdown), or liquid penetration into the device. The consequence of these factors is overload and overheating, which in turn leads to burnout of the insulation of the copper wire wound onto the armature shaft. If part of the varnish on the wire burns out, the starter will turn little by little or intermittently, which will prevent the car from starting. This is especially noticeable in winter.

Proper repair of the starter on the Audi 80. At the same time, the brushes and bushings were replaced, which guarantees a long service life of the device.

can anyone tell me what can be done? | Topic author: Dolan

Hello! Tell me what could be wrong: the car is idling and sometimes it can stall stupidly, as if it was just turned off.

Andrey (Ingelore) Check the sensor on the distributor.

Sergey (Nape) check the hall sensor, it is located in the trampler

Sneg (Huey) How can I check it? ) Find found. It probably either works or it doesn't.

Sergey (Nape) first disconnect the connector from the distributor and check whether power is coming to the connector or not, there are only three wires, two power is most likely the extreme ones, these are plus and minus, and one control is most likely the middle one, but it could be different

Sergey (Nape) if power comes in, check the sensor itself: connect the connector to the distributor (the cover and slider can be removed), remove the wire from the coil, turn on the ignition, turn the crankshaft clockwise, and you need to put the wires on the distributor connector one end to minus the other the control, without disconnecting the connector, should show at least 9 volts; when you rotate the crankshaft, the power should disappear and appear; if the power is constant or absent, or less than 9 volts, then the sensor is faulty.