Window connection diagram, installation and adjustment instructions

Removing a standard window regulator

If you plan to install rear electric windows on the car, you will have to disassemble all the doors. Therefore, at the first stage, remove the trim from all the doors, and then begin disassembling the mechanisms. Having opened access to the cable mechanism and glass fasteners, you can begin dismantling. First, push the glass all the way up and secure it with tape.

After this, unscrew all the fastening bolts that are on the glass carriages. Moreover, you need to unscrew them both on the mechanism and on the glass. After this, you can pull the entire mechanism out of the door and begin installing the electrical one.

Featured Posts

To remove the old window mechanism, you must first remove the windows. It is necessary to disassemble the window regulator, remove the button and clean the contacts if they are oxidized. Pin 3 is the ground on the driver's side and the positive wire on the passenger's side. In addition, the power windows must operate when the ignition switch is on. First, the old windows need to be removed. After this, the casing is completely removed. First, remove the handle from the standard window regulator; you need to remove the lock washer from under it.

Use only a small amount of lubricant at a time, working in a window between applications to ensure good penetration. If the wiring is not provided for the installation of ESP by the manufacturer, then it must be laid through the technological holes that are located in the door and body.

Therefore, at the first stage, remove the trim from all the doors, and then begin disassembling the mechanisms. In this case, disassemble the window regulator, remove the button and clean the contacts if they are oxidized. See you on the pages of the site. Pay attention to the wiring diagram for the power window button; check it several times to avoid mistakes. American statistics record literally dozens of accidents related to a simple situation: a baby left in a stationary car stuck its head out the window, and with some paw - front or back - accidentally pressed the window-raising button located on the armrest. Do-it-yourself Electric Window Lifter (ESP), diagram and what you need

Lada 2114 SnowMan › Logbook › Window lifters without ignition

You stop, turn off the engine, take the key out of the ignition, press the power window button to close the window, BUT IT WAS NOT THERE

. When the ignition is turned off, the window switches do not work. Now, in order to close the window, you have to reinsert the key into the ignition...

I think you are all familiar with this situation.

I overcame this “illness” in the first days of using the car, long before I registered to drive. Due to the fact that during the drive I was asked more than once how I did it, I decided to post a detailed report.

And then I started by studying the materiel.

Electrical wiring diagram for VAZ 2114 electric windows

A little theory:

From the diagram it can be seen that the positive power window power wire passes through the K5 window relay and is open (pins 30 and 87). When you turn the ignition key, a plus is applied to the 85th contact of the K5 relay, the relay electromagnet turns on and closes the 30th and 87th contacts, after which a plus appears on the power window buttons.

Conclusion:

In order for the power windows to work without an ignition key, you need to bridge contacts 30 and 87 of relay K5 as in the figure below.
The red line indicates the jumper.
Let's move on to practice:

I will not impose on you any specific method of making a jumper; I will describe only the most common ones; you can choose any of these methods that seems most simple and convenient to you.

Method No. 2

Here I will describe another method of making a jumper. We will need: - 6.4mm MALE detachable terminal - 2 pcs - 5cm of wire We strip 5-7mm of insulation from each edge of the wire. Using a crimper, we crimp the connector terminals at the ends of the wire.

This is what should happen

We insert the resulting jumper instead of the K5 power window relay in the mounting block (the jumper is inserted between contacts 30 and 87).

Method No. 3

In this version, the role of the jumper will be performed by the K5 window relay itself with minor modifications. We take out the K5 relay from the mounting block, turning the relay over we will see the markings of its contacts. We take a piece of wire without insulation and wind it around relay contacts 30 and 87 (see figure below). We return relay K5 to its place in the mounting block.

Wire marked in red

Electric windows of the front doors of VAZ 2115, VAZ 2114 (connection diagram): 1 – mounting block; 2 – power window switch for the right front door; 3 – gear motor for the electric window of the right front door; 4 – motor reducer for the electric window lifter of the left front door; 5 – power window switch for the left front door; 6 – ignition switch; K5 – relay for turning on electric windows; A - to power supplies; B - to the external lighting switch

Many cars produced recently are equipped with electric windows. Often, power windows are installed only on the front doors. But previously, VAZ 2114 and VAZ 2115 cars were not equipped with electric windows at all. Such cars were equipped with conventional mechanical

lifts for both front and rear windows.

In the window lift mechanism, instead of a gear reducer used in mechanical window lifters, there is only a drum into the hole of which the output shaft of the gear motor is inserted. The gear motor consists of a worm gearbox and a DC electric motor with excitation from permanent magnets. Its design is similar to that of the windshield wiper gearmotor. The gearmotor is reversible, the direction of rotation of the output shaft depends on the direction of the current in the armature winding. To protect against overloads, it has a built-in thermobimetallic fuse.

Above is a diagram for switching on electric windows on VAZ 2114 and VAZ 2115 cars. Gearmotors 3 and 4 are switched on by switches 2 and 5 located on the armrest handles. The supply voltage is supplied to the switches when the ignition is turned on through fuse F6 and the power window relay K5, located in mounting block 1. If the power windows do not work, then it is necessary to remove the door trim and check whether voltage is supplied to the gearmotors, check the fuse and the power window relay, and restore broken connections in the wires, replace the faulty gearmotor with a new one.

Add a comment to the article

Installing and connecting power windows: how to connect power windows correctly

In general terms, having selected the mechanism, you first need to remove the door card, after which you will need to disconnect the battery terminals. Afterwards, the old electric window regulator (if equipped) is removed, and the wiring from it is first disconnected. If the device is mechanical (manual window lift), dismantling is also required.

By the way, before removing the window lifting mechanism, the glass itself must be secured with wide stationery tape in the most convenient position for installing the window lifting mechanism. Then you can install the new mechanism, and then proceed to connect it.

If another window regulator is installed or it was not there initially, the connection diagram of the window regulators, the pinout of the window regulator, etc. must be studied in advance.

It is also necessary that the window lift buttons be prepared in advance in case they are missing or existing ones are faulty. Let's take a closer look at the procedure using the example of replacing a standard manual mechanism with an electric analogue.

Installing a window regulator

Let's look at installing a window regulator using the example of a VAZ 2109. Before starting work, you should prepare:

a cross and a flat screwdriver;
nippers and pliers;
a set of keys;
knife and broaches;
electrical tape, copper wire, wide tape, zip ties, etc.

You will also need pistons for attaching the door card and other elements that may require replacement after removing the door cards. These features should be taken into account and all necessary parts should be purchased in advance.

So, by disconnecting the power from the battery, the power circuit for the cigarette lighter and the backlight of the dashboard buttons are turned off separately. The fact is that it is to these circuits that the power supply for the power windows will be connected. Next, after removing the door card and fixing the glass with tape, you need to unscrew the fastenings of the door glass to the standard window lift mechanism.

Now the mechanism can be removed by sliding the lower pin of the guide into the hole in the door. By pressing with a screwdriver, the upper fastening of the guide is also removed. Afterwards the standard window regulator is completely removed.

Next, you can attach the new mechanism by inserting it into the inner cavity of the door when folded in the open glass position. The mechanism itself is attached inside by two pins that are inserted into the holes that used to hold the middle part of the guide of the standard mechanical window lifter. Having aligned all the holes, you can screw on the nuts.

Having aligned the mechanism with the strip on the glass, you need to connect them with bolts (usually included in the kit). It is advisable to lubricate all associated parts so that the mechanism operates easily and quietly. At this stage, the installation of the window regulator is completed. Now you can proceed to the connection.

Connecting the window regulator

The general diagram of the window lifter involves connecting the mechanism itself and the button. At the initial stage, you need to lay wiring from the door from the window motor to the place where the buttons for the window lifts will be located.

By the way, the power window buttons on many cars are often placed in standard places, covered with plugs. If you put the button in a different place, you need to place the power window button closer to the driver’s seat to make it convenient to open the windows. Usually this is the parking brake console, a niche at the bottom of the instrument panel, etc.

It is important that the wires in the door do not come into contact with moving parts of the door and window lift mechanism. As for the power supply for the power windows, it is taken from the cigarette lighter.

After connecting the power, you should check how the circuit works. To do this, turn on the dimensions, making sure that the backlight of the window buttons works. If the backlight does not turn on, you need to swap the sockets on the button contacts.

The main task is not to mix up the contacts when connecting the power window button. As a rule, the error causes the driver's and passenger's windows to be raised and lowered by moving the button in different directions.

Let us add that there are also options for installing window regulators according to the standard scheme using a mounting block, however, owners do not always have such a block available. However, if necessary, you can implement just such a connection scheme.

The final step is to check the window regulators. Normally, the glass should rise and fall smoothly, the mechanism should not jam, and the glass should not come out of the guides. To make the glass move more easily in the seal, you can treat the loaded areas with silicone lubricants. After making sure that it is fully operational, you can reinstall the door cards, changing latches, pistons, etc.

Power window

The vehicle configuration with electric windows contains additional bundles of wires that make up the VAZ-2114 window lift circuit. In addition, there is a control button on the front passenger door trim. On the driver's door there is a block of buttons that control all windows that have an electrical connection for the VAZ-2114 power windows.

The scheme has the following elements:

Mounting block.
Front passenger door ESP button.
Front passenger door lift motor.
Driver's door ESP electric motor.
Driver's door switch button.
Egnition lock.

The letter “A” in the diagram indicates the wires going to the power supply of the circuit, and the letter “B” indicates the wires going to the side lights.

Electric drive installation

Each set of electric windows comes with instructions that indicate the installation diagram of all drive elements, as well as a circuit diagram. It allows you to see how to connect electric windows to the vehicle's on-board network. The same instructions, which describe installing the drive on the “seven”, indicate how the holes in which the rack is attached are located relative to each other. Measure the distance using a ruler and caliper, mark the location of the holes using a marker.

Make a hole with a 5.5 mm drill inserted into a screwdriver or drill. The power window mechanism is installed through the right hole in the door. Next, align the holes in the rail with those you made in the door. All that remains is to secure the rail with 10mm bolts, which should be included in the installation kit.

Electrical work

Remember that using a power window fuse can protect all important components from short circuits.

The electrical setup procedure looks something like this:

The electric motor must be supplied with voltage directly from the battery. In this case, the rotor should rotate and the entire mechanism should rise up. And you need to wait for the moment when the holes in the fasteners of the mechanism are aligned with those located on the glass carriages. Only after this can the glass be fixed.
If there is no wiring (the installation of ESP is not provided for by the manufacturer), then it must be laid through the technological holes that are located in the door and body. You need to run wires to the instrument panel.
You can place the control buttons in any convenient place, but it is best to place them in the door handle. But on domestic cars they are more often installed in the cigarette lighter area or near the handbrake.
All moving parts of the electric drive must be lubricated - a CV joint type compound is suitable.
Apply voltage to the entire system through the power window fuse and check operation.
If there are no faults, you can install the casing and recheck.

The article shows a wiring diagram for the power window button. It is recommended to switch all power circuits using relays to maintain the integrity of the buttons.

homemade electric windows - auto-moto - Catalog of articles

Do it yourself.

Today, many of us, instead of purchasing this or that item, manage to do something similar with our own hands. This may be due to either a difficult financial situation or a desire to invent something special.

This article will be directly useful for car enthusiasts who prefer Soviet classics, and more specifically the VAZ-2107 car. Today we will talk about homemade electric windows. There is nothing more difficult than installing homemade lifts into classics. Everything has to do with the design of the door and glass. On other Zhiguli models, the glass is much narrower, and the entire drive fits without any problems. But what should owners of sevens do? Fortunately, a completely satisfactory answer was found to this question. After much thought and consideration of various options, I came to the only possible option that could actually be implemented. For this you will need: VAZ 2107

, old Soviet engine with geared wipers

, grinder, lathe if possible, electric drill, mind, and some beer if desired.

Let's start by removing the casing and removing the drive mechanism itself. lifts see fig.

Afterwards, you will need to remove the shaft from the drive, which drives the drive using the window lifter handle.

Then we loosen the lower tension roller or, if necessary, rotate it 180 degrees without removing it. Then we take the drive and pull it as far as possible into the upper left corner where it stood only as high as possible (depending on the circumstances). We take a simple nail and mark future mounting holes. Then we mark the hole for the central drive rod, which will already protrude from the gearbox shaft, and drill it too.

After the preparatory work has been completed, we begin preparing the engine itself and the gearbox itself. Let's start with the gearbox. First, let's disconnect it from the engine and disassemble it by taking the large gear out.

This driven gear has a shaft that needs to be machined to approximately 6 mm in diameter (to fit into the lift drive),

and cut a thread on it.

After this, we cut the gearbox housing as shown in the figure.

Now the gearbox can be assembled, not forgetting to lubricate all rubbing components.

After assembling and fastening the gearbox to the engine, we mount it on the lift mechanism itself.

The motor is fixed to the drive using a simple 6 nut, ground parallel on both sides, so that it can be screwed into the groove of the drive.

After careful adjustment and installation of the required gap, the fixing nut can be tightened or Electra welded. Before installing the assembled unit on the door, you need to correctly lay the cable on the drum so that the system works correctly. After installation, turn the engine as far as possible so that it does not interfere with the window lowering. It looks like this.

Having tensioned and lubricated the drive cable, we move on to the electronic part.

You will need to assemble a simple circuit using two electronic relays and two keys, which will lower and raise the windows.

I placed the keys in the door handle; there is just the right place for them under the molding.

It is important to use a fairly thick wire to power the motor, but any thin wire can be used to power the keys. But it is necessary to install fuses on the entire system to avoid short circuits. Such electric windows are made quite easily and at minimal cost. But since I didn’t do this work alone, I couldn’t do it without beer.

This development is suitable for all Zhiguli models from the first to the seventh. If you have any questions during installation, please contact the site administrator. We are always happy to help you. Also, if you have something new to add, you are always welcome. After assembly...

netbox.ucoz.ru

Power rack-and-pinion windows

Rack and pinion window lifters are considered one of the most “long-lasting” compared to others. Rack-type ESPs operate on the principle of transmitting rotational motion from an electric motor to gears, with its subsequent transformation into linear movement of racks that perform lifting. In addition to reliability, window lifts of this type lift windows much faster and quieter than cable counterparts.

But, like everything in this world, rack and pinion windows are not perfect and have their drawbacks. The main disadvantage is that the gears need lubrication; without it, they very soon begin to wear out, and the power windows themselves cease to function normally. The second drawback especially concerns those devices whose manufacturers decided to “save” on metal parts and gave preference to plastic. The fact is that this material is fragile and is noticeably inferior in strength to aluminum, as a result of which the service life of such ESPs is reduced. Among other things, the rack and pinion mechanism is more bulky, so they are installed mainly in “large” car doors.

Cable-type electric windows

The main advantage of cable window lifters is their high maintainability. In the event of a malfunction, you can easily repair the mechanism, and spare parts can be found in almost any auto store

This advantage, at first glance, is insignificant, but as practice shows, most motorists choose this type of ESP without paying attention to the disadvantages of the cable mechanism. The fact is that the cable wears out or stretches over time; in addition, due to the low strength of the plastic guides, they often fail, and the electric motor is very prone to overheating

Lever type electric windows

Lever-type ESP successfully combines compact dimensions and a high degree of reliability. In such power windows, the motor turns a gear, which transmits rotation to one or more levers. In turn, the levers move the plate on which the glass is mounted. The main disadvantage of this mechanism is the uneven speed of glass movement; the higher it is, the slower the lifting will occur.

As for glass, regardless of the type of mechanism, it moves along guide channels or special rails.

Impulse and non-impulse windows?

In addition to the type of lifting mechanism, ESPs are divided into pulsed and non-pulse. The former are capable of operating in pulsed as well as normal mode. By “normal” we mean that the power window operates only when you directly press and hold your finger on the control key. The term “pulse” means a short touch, after which the glass itself will completely lower or rise.

Pulse power windows are most often equipped with five-position control keys; the lever is set in neutral mode, from which there are two speeds of lifting up and down. By moving the slider up one position, the window lifter will operate in “normal” mode, and the glass will rise exactly as long as you hold your hand on the key. The second position will allow you to fully raise or completely lower the window.

Apr 14, 2015

Removing a standard window regulator

Standard windows

On domestic cars of the “classic” family, only manual power windows were installed. For example, the first “sevens” had rack and pinion ones, and the “nines” and “kopecks” had cable ones. Why were such mechanisms installed? It’s just that domestic designers tried to reduce the cost of the car, so for the sake of economy, devices with plastic gears were installed. And they fail quite quickly.

In the early 90s, the designers who developed the “sevens” realized their mistake and began installing cable-operated windows on the cars, but the drive was still manual. The peculiarity of such structures is that they are repairable. If in rack-and-pinion gears when a plastic gear breaks, the entire mechanism needs to be replaced (and it is very difficult to find it on sale), then if the cable system malfunctions, it is more than possible to carry out repairs.

The principle of operation of all mechanisms (both cable and rack and pinion) is the same - the system on which the glass is attached rotates with a handle. Depending on the type of window lifter, either the gear moves along a toothed vertical rack, or the cable is tensioned.

How does a window regulator work?

Depending on the type of window regulator, it may contain various elements. The structure of this unit must be known in order to correctly diagnose and troubleshoot the system. There are three types of car window lifts: cable, rack and pinion.

Cable window lifts operate on the manual principle, only a button is used instead of a handle, and the drive, which operates from the handle, rotates on the electric motor shaft. This window regulator includes a set of pulleys and a gear. The entire mechanism is driven by a special cable that supports the glass.

Rack and pinion windows are a continuation of the cable mechanism and a simplification of its design. It is based on a gear wheel, which is driven by an electric motor shaft, and a gear rack, which, interacting with the wheel, raises or lowers the glass.

The lever window lift is the final stage and consists of two levers that raise the glass and are also driven by an electric drive. Compared to others, lever window regulators are the most reliable and fail later than others.

Adviсe

Let's give some advice.

In addition to calculating the load on the equipment in a specific connection, it is important to correctly select the wires that match the resistance in the circuit. Preference can be given to acoustic wires, which give the purest sound at the output, or to ordinary wires with R not lower than 4 ohms. To avoid damage and short circuit, the polarity of the contacts + to - should be strictly observed. When you turn on the radio for the first time to check, the volume should be minimal

If the sound is distorted, the equipment should be turned off immediately. This effect occurs when the polarity of the connections is not observed, which will have to be corrected.

Video of replacing the vacuum brake booster of a VAZ 2110

Backup video on how to replace the vacuum brake booster of a VAZ 2110:

Welcome! Vacuum brake booster - designed to make the brake pedal much easier to press, it only works when the engine is running, but when the engine is turned off, the vacuum booster will not work, all this is due to the fact that when the engine starts, the air filter housing begins to suck in air from the environment and it enters the intake manifold, air is taken from the manifold a little and goes into the vacuum chamber and therefore it starts to work only when the engine starts.

Note! To replace the brake booster, you will need: A set of all kinds of wrenches, as well as a couple of screwdrivers, and also for this task, a socket head and a wrench will be very convenient!

Where is the vacuum brake booster located? It is screwed to the car body with four nuts, or rather not the itself, but its bracket, the vacuum booster itself is secured to this bracket with two nuts, but they are easiest to remove as an assembly, i.e. unscrew the four nuts that secure the bracket to the body and then remove them, and when the vacuum booster with the bracket is in your hands, you will need to unscrew the two nuts and separate them from each other, but we will talk about this later in this article, a little lower .

When do you need to change the vacuum brake booster? If the brake booster fails, a hiss may appear when you press the brake pedal, and the speed may also go up and then down, in addition, the brake pedal will become difficult to press (This is equivalent to the fact that the car is turned off) basically this is there are all the symptoms that indicate that the vacuum booster has failed, it does not always happen that they all appear together in the car, but a couple of them will still appear when the vacuum booster becomes unusable (the main ones most likely, namely, tight brake pedal and floating speed).

Note! By the way, the vacuum booster can be checked for serviceability as follows: With the engine off, press the brake pedal 5 times and when the last press is made, hold the pedal to the floor, immediately after which start the car, if the pedal falls a little, this will indicate that that the vacuum booster is fully operational!

Electrical problems

Do-it-yourself camouflage on a car
It is better to start diagnosing a malfunction by checking the condition of the fuse, which is responsible for the operation of the power windows in the VAZ 2110. Usually it is numbered F5. If necessary, the fuse must be replaced with a new one. If it is intact, proceed to the next stage. You will need a 12 volt light bulb with two wires going to its positive and negative side.

Connect the wires to the terminals of the window lift motor and press the button. If the light comes on, the wiring is good, but if not, start looking at the wires for breaks. Also don't forget to check the corresponding relay.

Another problem with the electrical wiring circuit is when the window opens when the button is pressed, but when it is released the glass rises again. In some cases, the button does not work until you turn the ignition off and on. These signs indicate a malfunction of the button, so you can try to remove it and clean the contacts, and if necessary, replace it with a new one.

Installation of electric windows on a VAZ 2106

The main goal pursued when installing electric windows is comfortable control of the door windows. In addition, you do not need to be distracted from the road by turning the handles. Electric windows, which are currently produced for classic Zhiguli cars, are characterized by fairly high reliability, the possibility of self-installation and ease of control from a button. In addition, the mechanism can work in conjunction with the security system, allowing you to automatically close the windows when the car is armed.

Which ones to choose

Power windows can be installed in several ways:

With the installation of an electric motor without any major modifications. This method is simpler and less expensive. However, there is a possibility of motor failure due to overheating.
With installation of a separate kit. Despite the higher cost of such equipment, it is still justified by the reliability of the system during operation.

The most popular electric window lifters for the VAZ 2106 and other “classics” are rack-and-pinion mechanisms such as “FORWARD”. One of the main elements of the unit is the rack along which the gearmotor with gear moves. The latter are mounted on a metal carriage, to which the glass is fixed, and as a result of the rotation of the electric motor, the entire mechanism is set in motion. The set of the device in question consists of the following list:

installation instructions;
two electric windows;
wiring harness;
two switches;
decorative plugs for holes.

Electric window kit contains everything needed for installation

How to install

To install the mechanism in question, in addition to the set of equipment itself, you will need:

a set of keys;
flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
wires;
circuit breakers;
fastening elements.

Many car owners power their window lift motors from the cigarette lighter, which is simply convenient. If for some reason this option does not suit you, the wire will have to be routed under the hood to the battery. The device control buttons are also installed at the discretion of the owner: installation is possible either on the door, for example, in the armrest, or in the area of the gear shift knob or other convenient place.

We install electric windows on the “six” as follows:

Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
We lift the glass and secure it with tape, which will prevent it from falling when removing the old mechanism.
We dismantle the mechanical device.
We attach the adapter plate to the power window at a downward angle so that the glass lowers completely.
According to the instructions, we mark and drill holes on the door for mounting the gearmotor.
We fix the mechanism to the door.
We lower the glass and attach it to the plate through the corresponding holes.
We temporarily connect power to the electric motor and try to raise/lower the window. If everything works, install the buttons in the selected places, lay and connect the wires to them, as well as to the cigarette lighter.
We install the trim, and then the plug, closing the hole under the handle of the mechanical window lifter.

Video: installation of electric windows on the “six”

Initially, mechanical windows were installed on the VAZ “Six”. Today, many owners of these cars replace them with electrical devices, which not only increases the level of comfort, but also avoids periodic repairs or replacement of the manual mechanism. Malfunctions that arise with mechanical window lifters can be eliminated by almost every Zhiguli owner, as well as installing a structure with a gearmotor. To do this, a standard garage set of tools and familiarization with the step-by-step instructions will be enough.

Installation of electric windows on a VAZ

The procedure is performed in the following sequence:

temporarily remove the glass seal located on the inside of the door;
remove the glass, and then dismantle the window regulator fastening mechanism;
we install devices that will operate from an electric drive;
connect the negative terminal to the battery and check the operation of the new window regulator;
We install the glass in place and trim the door.

Unlike conventional mechanical devices, power windows are not equipped with traditional gear reducers, but with a special drum. The shaft of a DC electric motor is inserted into its hole located in the center. In this case, the motor is only a component of the gearmotor, on which, as we found out earlier, the speed and quality of raising and lowering the windows depends.

Installation of the lifting device is quite simple. It starts with disconnecting the battery. After this, use a curved screwdriver to unscrew 3 screws, unfasten the door trim latches and remove the door pocket. Using a thin screwdriver, pry off the handle (latch) of the window lifter - the tip of the tool is inserted into the recess between the latch and the socket.

The handle itself is removed. At the next stage, the car door opening handle is dismantled. To do this, use a screwdriver to pry the handle cover and remove it. Now use a screwdriver to remove the 2 fastening screws that were hidden by the cover plate. After this, the handle can be removed without much difficulty. Using a screwdriver, you can also remove the power window button, which serves to lock the door.

After removing 6 pistons, the trim covering the car mirror adjustment mechanism is also removed. As a result, it remains easy to dismantle the door trim. Armed with a 10mm wrench, unscrew the 2 bolts that hold the auto glass clips. Next, 2 nuts securing the lifting mechanism, nuts of the upper and lower fastenings, and 3 nuts securing the lifting mechanism are unscrewed in sequence.

Upon completion of the described stage, it is time to remove the lower guide pin of the lifting device from the door panel. To facilitate and simplify such an operation, the upper pin of the guide must be bent using a screwdriver. Now the entire lifting mechanism can be safely removed through the resulting opening in the door frame.

When you need to install ESP (electric windows) yourself, then, as always, on the Internet it is difficult to find correct and understandable diagrams for everyone. Having experience in radio electronics, I am laying out for everyone the correct and understandable diagrams for connecting an ESP, an intelligent glass closer Pandora DWM-210 (but it is better to install a Sheriff PWM-200), as well as simple closers only for raising the glass, installed in the wire gap on the positive side of the motor.

The process of installing the ESP is described in detail by me here: www.drive2.ru/l/4651635/

We take ESP power buttons (NOT low-current trigger (multiplex) from Itelm), namely power ones: a block from Granta, and a new model button from Kalina (it’s the power one), since they are the cutest in appearance.
These are, of course, not dual-mode imported buttons, but they will work just as well with an intelligent door closer. We also install the Sheriff PWM-200 type door closer itself. Power buttons are easy to identify by their contacts - they have thick and flat blades, while trigger buttons have thin pins like needles!
We use thick power wires (shown in bold in the diagrams) >= 1 mm2, while control wires can be used thin = 0.5 mm2. Exception! If the buttons are not on the door, but on the center console and thick wires >= 1.5 mm2 are stretched from them to each door, then you can do without a relay, since there is no duplicate button here, and each one has its own door and the drawdowns are minimal. Then you don't have to read further.

Plus +12V must be taken from the fuse block, and not from the ignition, otherwise the automatic window closer will not work when arming. It is better to take the weight from the bolt behind the mounting block, and not in the door, since the contact in the door may not be very good. Although the door contact is also good if the car is not old. Take tinned terminals.

Connection diagram for power window lifter button "AVAR"

Diagrams for connecting the backup button on the driver's door to the main button on the passenger door

When installing two buttons on one window regulator, they are usually installed in series (or in parallel, but then they must be decoupled via a relay).

The main button is the button that controls the power window of the door on which it is installed. The duplicate button is the driver's button, which additionally controls another window regulator from the driver's seat.

Daisy chain connection (for low current trigger buttons)

We connect the output of additional button 1 in the driver's door to input 6, and output 7 to input 3 of the main button on the passenger door.
We cut the wires in the block connecting contacts 5-6 and 6-3. The minus of contact 5 now goes only to the backlight, and contacts 6 and 3 now take output from additional buttons 1 and 7 of the driver's door. Attention!
Installation in parallel will cause short circuit when raising and lowering. Power wires are highlighted in bold.

Parallel connection (for our power buttons)

Since with a serial connection you still can’t do without a relay, it is better to make a button duplication circuit in parallel, decoupling the main button from the backup button through two 5-pin relays: the wires from the main button next to the driver’s ESP motor go directly to the 88th contact of the relay and from pin 30 directly to the engine, and long wires from the backup button go to pin 85 of the relay winding, and the relay feeds a powerful plus to the passenger’s ESP engine.
A parallel connection for power buttons is preferable, since there is no need for a relay on the main (passenger) button (the wires here are short), and we thereby eliminate unnecessary clicking of the relay when the main button on the passenger door operates. For non-power low-current (trigger) buttons, in this case you will definitely have to use 2 more extra relays to relieve the load on the passenger button (therefore, a serial connection is always used for trigger buttons). Further, everywhere in my circuits a parallel connection is used, since all the buttons are power
.

Programming and adjustment: features

After the unit is installed, you need to program the power windows. The unit registered in the ECU memory will work more efficiently. Training window regulators depends on the vehicle they are installed on, so there is no universal instruction for this process.

Let's look at an example of how to register an electronic signature using the example of a Ford Focus car:

First, you need to press the ES control button and wait until the glass in the door rises all the way.
Next, press the same button again and hold it in this position for several seconds.
Now you need to lower the window; to do this, press the corresponding button until the electric valve lowers all the way. When the glass is in its lowest position, release the button.
Then you will need to raise the glass again until it is in its highest position.
After that, simply lower the window and try to raise it in automatic mode by pressing the button once rather than holding it down. If these steps do not help you, then repeat the entire process again. It should be noted that if this procedure is carried out on Focus 2 cars assembled in Russia, then such an operation will make it possible to train the electronic control system if the car is equipped with all four power windows. If your car only has 2 ES, then this algorithm will not work.

Connecting power windows VAZ-2109

Owners of a VAZ 2109 car can replace power windows with electric windows. On 2109 cars, electric windows can be connected via standard wiring, which already has everything provided for connecting an ESP.

This circuit is used to connect ESP on more “rich” configurations of the nine and it is advisable to use it when connecting independently. Below are diagrams for connecting an ESP with fuse blocks of new and old models.

Wiring diagram for power windows on a VAZ 2109 with an old-style mounting block (17.3722):

1 - Mounting block
2 - Ignition relay
3 — Ignition switch
4 — Right door electric window motor
5 — Left door electric window motor
6 - Right door power window switch
7 - Left door power window switch
K7 - Power window power relay
A - To terminal “30” of the generator
B - To the wiring harness block connected to the heater lever illumination display
B - to the heater lever illumination display
G - conventional numbering of plugs in the gear motor block

Connecting power windows yourself: what you need to know

In many modern cars, regardless of class, make and model, electric windows are the default solution. At the same time, the most budget option is when the power windows are installed only in the front, that is, on the driver’s and front passenger’s doors.

As for the domestic automobile industry (for example, VAZ of the 80-90s), as well as old foreign cars, such cars may not have power windows. Another option is the non-standard installation of window regulators.

In any case, both factory solutions and third-party installations may fail. For this reason, many car enthusiasts are interested in how to install power windows with their own hands for the purpose of repair (provided there is a power window) or upgrading the car (there is no power window initially). Next, we will look at how to install and connect a window regulator in a car.

Installation and connection diagram for VAZ 2109 window regulators: step-by-step instructions with photos

Before starting work, you must turn off the power supply to the vehicle's on-board network from the battery. Or we separately turn off the power circuits for the cigarette lighter and the backlight of the instrument panel and buttons, because The power supply wiring for the power windows will be connected to these circuits in the future.
Remove the door trim. It can be removed quite easily, but it is better to stock up on mounting pins.
First of all, we dismantle the mechanism of the standard manual window lifter, fixing the glass (for example, using office tape) in a position that provides access to the place where it is attached to the lifting mechanism.
Unscrew the bolts securing the door glass to the standard window lifter mechanism.
We dismantle the guide of the standard window lifter mechanism (trapezium). Unscrew the bottom nut:
Two nuts in the middle:
Top nut:
The guide is free, now all that remains is to unscrew the three nuts securing our window lifter in the area of the rotation handle.
We take out the entire door window lifter mechanism. To do this, we bring the lower pin of the guide into the hole in the door (see photo).
By pressing with a screwdriver, we remove the upper fastening of the guide.
Done, the window lift mechanism is disconnected. We take it out of the door cavity.
That's it, the standard mechanism has been dismantled, let's start installing a new one. The new mechanism is attached using standard fasteners; you don’t have to drill anything new. We place the window lifter mechanism into the inner cavity of the door through the largest technological hole in an “assembled” form (otherwise it won’t fit), as if in the “open” position of the glass.
We fasten the mechanism inside the door using two studs, which we insert into two holes that previously held the middle part of the guide of the standard VAZ 2109 window lifter. We combine them and screw on the nuts.
The next task is to combine the mounts on the window lift linkage system with the mount on the glass. This can be done by supplying power to the power window motor contacts from an external power source, for example, any working car battery.
When the lift mechanism is combined with the strip on the glass, we connect them using the bolts from the kit.
It is advisable to lubricate the rubbing parts thoroughly.
The mechanical part is complete, let's move on to the electrical part.
We estimate the route for wiring from the door from the electric motor of the window lift drive to the installation location of the buttons - activators. The standard place for buttons in the high panel of the VAZ 2109 is two plugs to the right of the cigarette lighter, and we install them there. The hardest part is running the wiring from the door into the rack and then out of the rack under the dash. For this purpose, there are technological holes in the rack. You may need to use a special probe. The wiring is done with a wire with a cross-section of at least 1 mm. sq. We lay the wires in such a way that they do not touch any moving parts of the door or the ESP mechanism itself. We will take power for the electric windows from the cigarette lighter. We make electrical connections according to the following diagram: When the circuit is assembled, it is necessary to connect the battery power and check the correct operation of our system. We turn on the side lights and check the correct operation of the backlight of the ESP activator keys. If the backlight does not work, swap the sockets on the contacts of the keys, indicated in the diagram as 3 and 6. You can install the power windows in the standard way, here are two diagrams: Connection diagram for power windows on a VAZ 2109 with mounting block 17.3722 (until 1998) Connection diagram for power windows on VAZ 2109 with mounting block 2114-3722010-60, 2114-3722010-10 and 2114-3722010-18 (new model)

You can read more about the types of mounting blocks for front-wheel drive VAZs here.

We check the functionality of the window regulators. The glass should move smoothly, without jamming or jerking, and should not come out of the guides. To facilitate the movement of glass in the seal, it can be treated with silicone grease. All that remains is to reinstall the door trim. That's it, the installation of the window lifters is complete, let's enjoy the completed modification!

How to install electric windows on a VAZ 2110

After selecting the appropriate devices, you can begin installing window regulators on the doors. To do this, the car is placed on a flat and open surface, where the door can be opened wide, and the negative terminal is removed from the battery.

Disassemble the door panel and remove the old up and down mechanism. To do this, lower the glass slightly, and use a wrench to unscrew the clip fastening from the old window lifter mechanism.

Next, the nut located at the top is unscrewed. It is designed for top mounting of a special guide. The same is done with the rest of the guides and after that, the old mechanism is unscrewed along with the cable.
A set of wires that are included in the purchased kit must be assembled into a special harness that is connected to the plug of the mounting block. Two wires are led out under the trim to the inside of the doors. At the point where the wire exits from under the wing and at the point at which the door enters, it is necessary to leave a certain margin, which will not allow the wires to break when the door is opened. However, such a reserve should not allow the wire to sag, otherwise it will come out and may be damaged at the place where the door gap closes.

If the power window control buttons are planned to be on the door handle, then the third wire is also routed into the door panel. In other cases, it is pulled behind the panel onto the dashboard or brought under the floor to a switch located between the seats.
Now you need to cut out some of the protective film so that it does not interfere with the operation of the electric motor. Through a special hole at the top of the panel, insert the electric drive with all the attached mechanisms and secure it in place of the previous mechanical window regulator. If the window regulator is installed on the rear door, the drive can be inserted through the lower hole in the corner.
Assemble the remaining parts and connect the wires from the harness in accordance with the connection diagram. Decide on the installation location of the switch button and mount it in the right place. Special wires are also inserted into the buttons in accordance with the connection diagram.
After this, the negative terminal is placed on the battery, and the operation of the window regulator is checked by lowering and raising the glass until it stops. After this, the glass holder is tightened and the necessary adjustment of the mechanism is carried out.
Now assemble all the door trim and securely hide the wires where they protrude beyond it.