Replacing the oil pump on a 16-valve VAZ-2112 with your own hands

Functions, structure and location of the VAZ 2110–12 oil pump

The engine lubrication system is designed to timely supply engine oil to the moving and hottest elements of the power unit. Oil is supplied from the sump and circulates through special channels inside the block and cylinder head. The oil pump ensures forced circulation of the lubricant.

Location of the oil pump on the VAZ 2110–12

On the VAZ 2110–12, the oil pump is located in the lower right corner of the cylinder block under the crankshaft gear, which drives the gas distribution mechanism.

The oil pump is located in the lower right corner of the engine under the crankshaft gear

This applies to both eight and sixteen valve engines. The pump housing is also the side cover of the power unit.

Oil pump device

The design of the oil pump is very simple and includes the following elements:

housing with lid;
driving and driven gears;
pressure reducing valve with spring;
oil receiver

The oil pump has a simple design based on two gears

Operating principle of the oil pump

The pump is driven by the crankshaft through the drive gear. The latter rotates the driven gear, creating a reduced pressure at the input of the device and increased pressure at the output. Thus, oil from the crankcase flows through the oil receiver tube into the pump, and from it into the engine oil line. When the pressure inside the pump begins to exceed the permissible value, a spring-loaded pressure relief valve drains excess oil back into the sump.

What builds up oil pressure in the system?

Everything is simple here - there is a special oil pump that takes oil from the engine sump and pumps it through the system. It is usually installed in the engine sump and driven by special gears that the engine turns during operation.

Oil through many channels begins to be supplied to the right places under pressure, as I already wrote, this is the crankshaft and its bearings, the camshaft and its “bed”, pistons, and much more.

It is the pump that is responsible for the pressure; if the pump stops, the pressure indicator will drop to zero. THIS CANNOT BE ALLOWED! Because the engine will not be lubricated at all, which will lead to instant breakdown, especially at high speeds.

BUT often the oil pump does not stop, but simply begins to pump worse, this indicates its wear, which is why you need to know the oil pressure in the engine! To respond in time to the nearest oil pump failure.

Tuning

The manufacturer AvtoVAZ provides a minimum of 50 hp for all its engines. s, so the 21124 engine can be modified in several ways:

tuning of the cylinder block - boring of cylinders to 84 - 88 mm using ShPG of the appropriate sizes;
tuning of the intake/exhaust tract – 4 throttles and “spider”, respectively;
modification of the cylinder head - lightweight camshafts and split gear with appropriate tuning by a specialist;
modernization of valves - replacement of standard equipment with lightweight T-shaped parts.

Separate throttle for each cylinder

Thus, engine 21124 is an improved version of the basic internal combustion engine 2112 with the volume, piston stroke and height of the cylinder block increased to 1.6 liters. The developers have ensured the interchangeability of parts from other engines from the AvtoVAZ manufacturer.

If you have any questions, leave them in the comments below the article. We or our visitors will be happy to answer them

Purpose

The purpose of the oil pump is to circulate oil through all engine components to lubricate them evenly and increase their service life. It is driven by an internal combustion engine (internal combustion engine) and is structurally divided into two different types, based on the principle of coupling with the crankshaft. In our case, it connects directly to the crankshaft, that is, it rotates with it. This is the operating scheme of the unit for front-wheel drive VAZ cars. Cars with all-wheel drive, as well as classics, have a more complex system installed. There, the drive contains additional links: an intermediate shaft, a timing chain (gas distribution mechanism), and toothed gears, through which torque is transmitted from the crankshaft to this device.

Troubleshooting

Direct connection of the pump to the crankshaft avoids damage associated with its drive. This, however, does not exclude the possibility of other malfunctions.

Pump malfunctions and their symptoms

The main malfunctions of the VAZ 2110–12 oil pump include:

clogging of the oil receiver mesh;
damage to the device body;
wear of gear seats in the housing and cover;
wear of the drive or driven gear;
damage to the pressure reducing valve;
deformation or damage to the valve spring.

A constantly burning warning light in the form of an oil can indicates a drop in pressure in the lubrication system to a critical level

Signs of oil pump failure may include:

critical oil pressure warning light on the dashboard;
engine overheating;
high-frequency knocking (clattering) at the pump location.

The design of the VAZ 2110–12 engine does not provide for the installation of an oil pressure sensor. Like most modern cars, representatives of the tenth family are equipped only with an emergency (critically low) pressure sensor. When the pressure in the system drops, a warning light in the form of a red oil can lights up on the instrument panel. However, this lamp can also light up in the event of other malfunctions (failure of the sensor, break in its electrical circuit, oil leak, etc.).

Engine overheating also cannot be attributed only to symptoms of a faulty oil pump. It usually occurs due to problems in the cooling system.

As for the knocking coming from the oil pump, not everything is clear here either. Sometimes, when gears or housing elements wear out, the device may produce a high-frequency knocking sound. As a rule, it is associated with the formation of play between the gears and the housing (cover) and is most clearly audible at idle. However, similar sounds can also be produced by worn bearings (tension or guide rollers, pumps, crankshafts).

How to determine that the oil pump is faulty

The process of replacing the oil pump on a VAZ 2110-12 is quite simple and does not involve the use of any special tools. However, to do this you need to buy a new pump and spend some time. Therefore, before replacing the device, you should make sure that it is the one that is faulty. This can be done using the following algorithm.

Oil level measurement

First you need to measure the oil level in the engine and check its consistency. This is done with a special probe. It is advisable to remember when the oil and filter were changed. If the car has traveled more than 10 thousand km since the last replacement, it is better to replace them immediately. Then you should apply a drop of oil to your thumb and rub it with your index finger. If the oil turns out to be too dark, liquid and quickly absorbed, it needs to be replaced.

If the lubricant level on the dipstick is below o, add oil and start the engine. Next, you need to see if the warning light on the dashboard comes on. You should also check whether the power unit is overheating. At the same time, the engine is inspected for oil leaks. If you previously heard a knocking sound from the pump, you should listen to see if it disappeared after adding oil.

One of the reasons for the drop in oil pressure in the system may be its low level

Checking the sensor electrical circuit

If the listed symptoms do not disappear, you should do the following:

Stop the engine and let it cool.
Disconnect the wire from the emergency oil pressure sensor. On sixteen-valve engines it is located on the left side at the end of the camshaft bearing housing, on eight-valve engines it is located on the right on the rear side of the cylinder head.
Turn on the ignition without starting the engine.
In the engine compartment, short the wire going to the sensor to vehicle ground. If the warning light goes out, everything is fine with the sensor circuit.

To check the sensor circuit, it is enough to short-circuit the wire going to it to ground with the ignition on

Sensor diagnostics

To diagnose the sensor, you need to unscrew it with a 21 key and inspect its working part, which goes into the cylinder head. There should be traces of engine oil on it, indicating normal lubricant circulation in the system. If the working part is dry, the oil pump is most likely faulty.

The sensor itself is usually checked by replacing it with a known good one. After this, it is checked whether the warning light is on and how the engine behaves.

Checking oil pressure

If after checking and replacing the sensor the symptoms do not disappear, you need to measure the oil pressure using a special pressure gauge. This pressure gauge has a metal tip with a thread that is screwed into the sensor socket. Then the engine starts and warms up. If the pressure gauge shows a pressure greater than 0.6 bar (60 kPa) at idle, the oil pump is working. If the pressure is lower, the pump should be replaced.

The oil pressure at idle speed must be at least 0.6 bar (60 kPa)

Checking the oil pump on the stand

In a car service center, the oil pump is checked on a special stand. This implies:

determination of pump performance;
measuring oil pressure at the pump outlet;
measuring the pressure at which the pressure reducing valve opens.

In this case, special oil is used, the temperature of which should be exactly 200C. The performance of the VAZ 2110–12 pump at a crankshaft speed of 6000 rpm must be at least 35 l/min, and the pressure relief valve must open when the pressure inside the pump increases to 0.55–0.75 MPa.

Instructions for verification

So:

First, check the serviceability of the electrical circuit going from the sensor to the instrument panel . Throw the wire going from the sensor to the engine to ground, the light will go out if the circuit is working properly.
The second reason could be the oil filter. Such a breakdown is determined by unscrewing the oil pressure sensor. It should be moistened with oil; a dry sensor means that the filter is clogged or its valve is stuck.
When replacing the filter does not have an effect, open the pan and check the oil receiver itself and the condition of its rubber sealing ring.
After these checks, one reason remains - a breakdown of the unit itself.

For your information:

The engine of the VAZ 2110 model is equipped with a combined lubrication system. On machines of this model there is a gear oil pump, which is located at the front end of the cylinder block.
Special gears with trochoidal internal gearing reduce mechanical losses during rotation.
The oil pump itself is equipped with a fully in-line, non-separable filter. With bypass and anti-drainage valves. This device ensures good oil circulation and lubrication through all components of the internal combustion engine (ICE).
It works by rotating the crankshaft. The connection method to the crankshaft is direct, which is typical for all VAZ cars with front-wheel drive.
On all-wheel drive and classic models, the system is supplemented with special transmission parts: a timing chain, an intermediate shaft, and a set of gears that transmit torque from the crankshaft.
The service life of this pump is from 120 thousand km, it works properly when the engine has already undergone a major overhaul. However, during operation, breakdowns are not excluded.

If replacement is still required, it is better for you to choose the VAZ 2110 oil pump from among reliable manufacturers.

Recommendation: If you still need to remove the oil pump, replace the front crankshaft oil seal at the same time.

Tools

Set of spanner wrenches
Ratchet socket set
A pair of flathead screwdrivers

Operating procedure

So:

Disconnect the negative cable from the battery terminal.
Drain the oil from the engine (through the drain plug in the oil pan).
We take out the camshaft drive belt.

Warning: After removing the timing belt (timing belt), do not try to turn the crankshaft or camshaft, the pistons may bend the valves. Then the price of repairs will increase significantly, as will the volume of work performed.

Now remove the oil sump.
On engines with a fuel injection system, disconnect the block with wiring from the sensor that counts crankshaft revolutions.
Using two screwdrivers, remove the pulley from the crankshaft.

We pull out the pulley with two screwdrivers

If the key does not fit tightly in the crankshaft groove, take it out so that it does not get lost.
We unscrew the bolts securing the oil receiver (there are three bolts, there are flat washers under the bolts) and remove the oil receiver.
We clean the oil receiver mesh from dirt and wash it with white spirit. When the mesh cannot be washed or is damaged, we replace the oil receiver.
We replace the lost elasticity or torn sealing ring of the oil receiver.
We unscrew the bolts securing the oil pump to the cylinder block (there are six of them) and remove the pump along with the gasket. Be careful - there are flat washers under the bolts.

Unscrew the bolts securing the pump

Helpful Hint: Every time you remove the pump, replace the old gasket with a new one. It is recommended to install only a factory-made gasket; a non-standard gasket has a different thickness and will cause problems with the operation of the oil pump.

We turn the pump drive gear to ensure correct installation on the crankshaft: the protrusions on the gear should coincide with the flats on the crankshaft.
Before installing the pump in place, lubricate the lip of the oil seal.
When putting the pump in place, carefully tuck the working edge of its oil seal onto the crankshaft journal using a wooden stick.
Only after this do we tighten the bolts securing the pump.
Then install all the parts back in reverse order.
Adjust the tension of the camshaft drive belt.

This is interesting: What to do if the engine goes into overdrive?

Oil pump VAZ 2112 16 valves

Post by Grigoryich » May 29, 2012, 1:41 pm

radiont625, Some service stations have a special adjustable wrench.

To deceive clients!

Nothing is adjustable in the oil pump.

We will never get what we want until we are grateful for what we have!

Osim haim!

Post by MaximV » May 29, 2012, 01:57 pm

Post by Grigoryich » May 29, 2012, 2:13 pm

We will never get what we want until we are grateful for what we have!

Osim haim!

Post by radiont625 » May 29, 2012, 2:15 pm

Is it possible to adjust it with a pressure reducing valve?

Attention!

Before installing the VAZ 2110 oil pump, you need to lubricate the pressure relief valve and gear. In addition, along with replacing the pump, it is worth replacing the oil seal.

After the pump is installed, you need to put the timing belt on the tension rollers and align it to the marks.
Put the plastic protection back in place and put the wheel back in place.
Install the oil pickup onto the oil pump.
Degrease the crankcase, after which sealant is applied.
Install a new gasket on the crankcase and apply sealant again. Degrease the block and put the crankcase in place (to make the task easier, first fasten 3-4 bolts at different points, then tighten the remaining ones).
Place the flywheel guard (also, if equipped, the crankcase guard).
Fill with oil, start the engine.

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Why do you need oil at all?

I often hear that oil is the lifeblood of the engine. This is not entirely true, of course, the comparison is very rough, but still, the engine will not function without oil (or it will, but not for a very long time).

Modern motor oils lubricate and protect all rubbing parts, and these are pistons (with their rings), shafts, bearings, etc. Let's just say that good oil extends the life of the engine by many thousands of kilometers.

BUT oil must flow through the system, just like blood itself through human vessels, if the oil is simply poured in a pan and does not go to the rubbing parts - IT IS USELESS!

Dismantling

Repair of the fuel pump on carburetor VAZ 2108, VAZ 2109, VAZ 21099

Removing the pump yourself is not difficult. Yes, and you are quite capable of performing independent repairs.

To repair, assess the condition of the pump, check the performance and degree of wear of its individual elements, you first need to remove the device and disassemble it.

De-energize the car by removing the negative terminal from the battery.
Loosen the generator mounting bolts and remove the belt.
Prepare a clean container by draining the oil from the crankcase into it. Next, you will need to remove the engine protection and oil pan.
Remove the camshaft drive timing belt.
Now that the belt is removed, do not turn the crankshaft or camshaft under any circumstances. Otherwise you will damage the valves by hitting them with the pistons.
Remove the crankshaft pulley by using two flat head screwdrivers and pulling it off the shaft. If the key does not hold well in its seat, it is better to remove it too.
Next in line for dismantling is the oil receiver. To remove it, you need to unscrew the two fastening bolts located on the main bearing cover, as well as one fastening bolt connecting the oil receiver to the pump (oil).
Remove the pump, held in place by six bolts.
After unscrewing all the bolts, carefully slide the oil pump away from the main bearing cap, then remove the oil pump with peace of mind.

Dismantling the device

Why is an oil pump needed?

Appearance of the pump
The oil pump in the engine is designed to build up pressure in the oil system, for the necessary lubricating effect of all rubbing parts of the internal combustion engine. If the pressure in the system is insufficient, the lubrication effect will be ineffective, which in turn will lead to the engine being unsuitable for operation. In this case, the low oil pressure warning light on the instrument panel should light up. Therefore, you should not delay repairing the oil pump.

You are left with two options. Take the car to a service station and lose a lot of time and money, or change the oil pump yourself.

Pump diagnostics

Oil pump removed for diagnostics. Symptoms: oil leak.

First, you need to make sure that the oil pressure sensor itself is working properly - check whether the sensor itself is dry or oily.

Secondly, you need to check whether power is supplied to it correctly or whether a wire is broken somewhere. And only after these procedures, if the light does not go out, will you have to change the oil pump.

Why might it break prematurely?

An oil leak from the oil pump can lead to expensive engine repairs.

Replacement of the oil pump can also be caused by poor quality oil, which will lead to rapid clogging of the oil receiver grid and subsequent lack of oil pressure in the system. It is not uncommon for an oil pump to become wet and oil to leak from underneath it. In these cases, you can get by by replacing the gasket and cleaning the oil receiver mesh.

When to change the oil

This question is quite important and this work should be done according to certain rules. You shouldn’t simply replace it every certain period of time. You just need to do this on time:

It is recommended to change the oil for the VAZ 2112 after a mileage of about 8,000 or 10,000 km. But this again depends on operating conditions (long idling - winter periods), it is recommended to change the VAZ 2112 oil at lower mileage. A dark color of the oil, as a rule, will signal the need for this procedure; this indicates that combustion products are present in the oil, and accordingly will negatively affect the performance of the oil (washing out combustion products and mechanical wear, heat removal and transfer, lubrication) .
Changing the oil on a VAZ 2112 must be done after a trip, until the engine has cooled down. If the engine is cold, you need to start it and warm it up to operating temperature. This must be done in order to reduce the viscosity of the oil in order to drain it as completely as possible from the crankcase.

If you are changing the fluid, after draining the old oil, you must fill in new oil to the lower oil level mark. Start the engine and let it idle for ten minutes. Drain the oil and only then change the oil filter. Now you can safely fill in new oil to the required level. If the minimum level is on the dipstick, there is a risk of insufficient pressure and lubrication, and overheating is also possible. If, on the contrary, the maximum level, then this can result in squeezing out the seals and causing a leak through them.

In order to replace or repair the oil pump on cars of the 10th family, it is necessary to have an inspection hole or overpass. As a last resort, a jack can be used. You also need the following tools:

Wheel wrench for unscrewing wheel bolts.
Wrenches in sizes “10”, “13”, “17”.
Hex socket wrenches size "5" and "8".
Large slotted screwdriver.
Tool for tensioning the timing belt roller.
Clean and dry container to drain the oil.

After you have prepared all the tools, you can begin the repair work.

The main reasons for oil pump failure

The service life of the VAZ 2110–12 oil pump regulated by the manufacturer is 150–200 thousand km. This, however, does not mean that the pump will not last longer or fail much earlier. The main reasons why it may stop functioning normally are:

spent resource;
untimely replacement of the oil filter, as a result of which metal particles (friction products) enter the system, acting on the pump parts as an abrasive, and the filter mesh of the oil receiver becomes clogged;
use of oil whose characteristics do not meet the requirements of the car manufacturer.

Also check out

Replacing power steering fluid in a VAZ 2115 without going to a service station
Instructions for replacing the cabin filter of a VAZ 2110 with your own hands
Oxygen sensor. Checking the VAZ lambda probe

Open the hood and remove the plastic timing belt protection.
Remove the right wheel, the pulley mounting washer, and dismantle the pulley.
Remove the timing belt, unscrew the bolts that secure the oil pump (6 pieces) using an “8” wrench, and remove the pump from the crankshaft.

At this point, the removal of the VAZ 2110 oil pump can be considered complete. Now it’s worth replacing the pump and reassembling in reverse order.

DETAILS: Overlay for the instrument panel VAZ 2110

de63554s-480

Oil filter

The filter is full-flow, non-separable, screwed onto the fitting of the cylinder block and connected by channels to the oil pump and the main oil line. To remove the filter, use device A.60312. When installing the filter, it is recommended to wrap it manually without a tool. A filter element made of special cardboard is installed in the steel filter housing. The filter has anti-drainage and bypass valves. The anti-drainage valve does not allow oil to drain from the system when the engine is stopped, the bypass valve allows oil to pass through when the filter element is clogged from the pump into the main oil line.

Disassembly and repair

Replacing the oil pump

After completing the dismantling work, you can proceed in two ways:

Replace the old pump with a new one;
Repair the old oil pump.

Repair allows you to identify worn elements and replace them with new ones, which will restore functionality. If the breakdown is more serious than simple wear and tear of consumables, the optimal solution would be to completely replace the oil pump.

Where does withdrawal begin?

To disassemble the pump, follow the instructions.

Divide the pump into two parts. To do this, we have already unscrewed 6 bolts securing the cover to the body and used a screwdriver to pry off this cover. It came out of the pins on the body. So we remove the element and put it aside. Inside the pump housing there are driven and drive gears, which need to be removed and placed aside for now. Then we will check their condition. Next, the pressure reducing valve is removed. To do this, first unscrew the valve plug and remove the spring from the hole, and then the valve. In some cases, problems may arise with removing the valve. If you encounter this situation, gently tap the oil pump body against a piece of wood or use a wooden cone-shaped pin. It is inserted into the valve hole, the valve is hooked and removed. Having disassembled your oil pump on the VAZ 2109, thoroughly wash all its components using clean kerosene

Don't forget to wipe the parts dry afterwards. Check the condition of the cover and body of your pump for mechanical defects, chips, cracks

Pay special attention to the landing spots of the gears, where there should be no signs of wear or other mechanical defects. If they are, the pump will have to be replaced

Condition assessment

In many ways, the performance and maintainability of the old oil pump depends on the results of checking the characteristics of the cover and body of the device. It is necessary to take measurements of the gaps.

Check location	Requirements
Driven gear seat diameter	The diameter may increase as the pump operates and friction occurs. The normal diameter of this place for the VAZ 2109 is 75.1 millimeters. If there is a deviation in the direction of increasing diameter, the pump must be replaced.
Thickness of the mating wall	Under normal conditions, this parameter is 3.4 millimeters. If the gap is less than specified, the pump is replaced completely
Drive gear thickness	The normal value is 7.42 millimeters. When the size is reduced, the pump goes to a landfill, and a new one is installed in its place.
Driven gear thickness	For her, the normal parameter is a thickness of 7.35 millimeters. As with the drive gear, deviation from the norm means replacement
Drive gear axial clearance	To measure, take a metal ruler and feelers of 0.12 and 0.15 millimeters. The gap is checked as follows: a gear is placed in the pump housing and a ruler is placed on top with its end. The gap between the end of the ruler and the plane of the feeler gauge is measured. For the drive gear, the gap is 0.12 millimeters
Axial clearance of driven gear	The method for checking the gap is exactly the same. Only for the driven one the normal indicator is 0.15 millimeters
Condition of the pressure reducing valve and socket	Assessing these parameters is very important. If you find mechanical damage on the surface, the element cannot be used further.
Spring	If the spring is bent or stretched more than normal, then replace the element. There is no need to completely change the entire pump.

Determining which gear is which is not difficult. The leading one has an external tooth, and the driven one has an internal one, that is, the element is smooth on the outside.

driven gear

Reassembly

Having completed the repair and reassembly of the old oil pump, or having decided to completely replace it, pay attention to several important nuances of reassembly

Before installation, rotate the pump gear so that the lugs match the flats on the crankshaft.
Be sure to lubricate the working edge of the oil seal with engine oil. This will allow you to easily slide the oil seal onto the crankshaft journal.
When installing, be sure to trim the edges of the seal using a thin piece of wood. After this, you can fix the pump and return to their places all the elements dismantled at the stage of preparation for repair.
After completing assembly of the unit, be sure to adjust the tension of the generator belt and camshaft belt.

«>]

Replacing and repairing an oil pump is quite simple if you have a repair kit and the necessary tools at your disposal. The main objective difficulty lies only in dismantling and reassembling the unit.

Assembly

Tip: When the pump is removed, we recommend replacing the front crankshaft oil seal located in the cover. We assemble the pump in the reverse order of disassembly. The driven gear inside the pump is positioned so that its side with chamfers and a mark is attached to the housing. The same with the drive gear. That's all. The pump assembly is completed, all that remains is to install it in place, as our instructions say. In addition to the instructions, we recommend watching a video on this issue. If a red indicator lights up on your instrument panel, signaling a lack of oil pressure in the system, then do not rush to run to the store and buy a new oil pump. The video discusses the most basic reasons why oil pressure may drop in a VAZ engine:

How to check oil pressure?

The actual check is carried out using a special device - a pressure gauge. It is also worth noting that you need to warm up the engine to operating temperature, usually 90 degrees Celsius.

If you measure with a cold engine, especially in winter, the pressure can jump to high values, from 0.5 BAR or even higher, but measuring with a cold engine is WRONG!

In order to check the pressure, you need to find the emergency sensor, which is responsible for the indication on the dashboard. It is worth noting that it is not always located nearby and it is convenient to unscrew it. We unscrew it, and in its place we attach the test output connected to the pressure gauge.

The check can then be divided into two options:

AT “idle” it is usually from 900 to 1200 rpm.
Then at “higher” speeds, usually 4000 - 5000 engine speeds.

It is also worth noting that if you unscrew the emergency sensor, the “oil can” will light up on your instrument panel, this is normal.

Now a short video showing how measurements are taken.

What value should it be?

To begin with, it is worth noting that pressure is measured in bars (BAR), because we are measuring liquid. It’s unlikely that anyone will tell you the exact values now, because the structures of the engines are different, but there is a certain normal interval.

AT idle speed it is 2 BAR (or 0.2 MPa), for most cars

At 4000 - 5000 rpm - this is 4.5 - 6.5 BAR (0.45 - 0.65 MPa), also for most brands

If we take our VAZ 2112 16 valve version, then the pressure at idle is slightly higher, about 1.5 - 2.5 BAR. But at 4000 - 5000 rpm 0.4 - 0.6 BAR.

Actually, I’ll end here, I think the information was useful, read our AUTOBLOG.

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Why do many people turn to Auto Service Close when replacing the oil pump on a LADA (VAZ) 2112?

Our car services have been providing oil pump replacement services in Moscow for many years and have long managed to prove consistently high quality of service. Many motorists trust our specialists to replace the oil pump due to the following features of our service stations: Share: No comments

Engine oil pump, a device necessary for injecting oil from a running engine, which is under pressure to the moving surfaces of the engine mechanisms. It is designed to increase the pressure in the internal system of the engine, and is thus used to provide lubrication to all operating parts of the internal combustion engine.

ContentsPriceFaultsReplacement

Causes of oil pump failure

There are a number of typical breakdowns due to which the oil pump completely or partially fails:

physical wear of the housing, rotor or driven gear. There is a gap of 0.2 mm between the pump gears and the housing. There is also a gap between the teeth of the pump gears - 0.5 mm. As wear occurs, these gaps increase, and the pressure created by the pump at the outlet pipe drops. Since replacing and adjusting worn gears is a very labor-intensive process and not everyone can do it, car enthusiasts follow the path of least resistance and simply change the entire oil pump;
clogging of the oil receiver. If it becomes clogged, the pressure in the car's lubrication system drops sharply, and a red light comes on on the dashboard. A clogged oil receiver is a consequence of a completely clogged crankcase. The solution is to completely drain the used lubricant, remove the pan, crankcase, oil pump and thoroughly wash all these parts in kerosene;
oil leak. Sometimes oil begins to leak directly from under the pump. Typically, the driver does not notice a leak immediately, identifying it by indirect signs, for example, by a sharply increased lubricant consumption and oil stains under the car. The cause of the leak is a leak in the pump gasket. Often, when replacing an oil pump, car enthusiasts do not change the gasket located under it, believing that it will serve for some time. This is an error that leads to leaks. The rule is simple: when changing the oil pump, you must also change the gasket, even if it does not look worn out.

Separate mention should be made of motor oil. Its quality also has a significant impact on the service life of the pump and its serviceability. The fact is that the oil pump is the only engine element that is lubricated with unfiltered oil (because the oil filter is installed only on the pump outlet). And if the car owner is used to saving on high-quality oil, then he may not count on long and uninterrupted operation of the oil pump.