How to Determine Camshaft Knock in VAZ 2107 ~ AUTOTEXNIKA.RU

Basic functions of the camshaft

The camshaft opens and closes the valves, allowing the fuel mixture into and out of the cylinder. There are cams on the camshaft. These are the protrusions that transmit torque to the lever. One rocker arm (lever) receives torque from the camshaft, the other transmits it to the valves. This opens the valves. When the cam rotates further, it ceases to act on the rocker arm, and the springs return the valve to its original position, i.e. It closes. The camshaft is driven by the crankshaft. They are connected by a chain or timing belt. To use a bicycle analogy, the crankshaft is the pedals, the camshaft is the rear wheel, and the timing chain is the same for a two-wheeler. While the crankshaft makes two revolutions, the camshaft makes only one.

Timing tags VAZ 2107 injector

The gas distribution mechanism and its drive of the seven engine produced by the Volzhsky Automobile Plant remained the same - chain. Extraction and excessive wear of the timing chain on the VAZ 2107 power unit by the injector-type power supply system leads to:

In order to avoid the negative consequences of weakening or stretching the chain drive of the VAZ 2107 car engine, it is necessary to carry out routine maintenance in a timely manner. The list of maintenance operations for the power unit with the injector power system is determined by the service book. The condition of the timing chain and the gaps between the camshaft cams and valve levers is monitored every 30 thousand km.

How to understand that the camshaft needs to be changed?

To determine if the camshaft is faulty without opening the hood, there are two signs:

Knocking;
Reduced engine oil pressure.

The main cause of camshaft failure is the appearance of gaps. They appear between the magazines and the bearings of the frame on which the camshaft rests. The slots are formed because the camshaft parts are worn out. The gaps cause the shaft to move along a vertical or horizontal axis. If the shaft play is 1 mm, it affects the operation of the engine. Reasons for breaks:

Timely replacement of the camshaft;
Don't change your oil on time;
Using low-quality oil;
The driver works at low speeds, so there is little time, and parts wear out faster.

The camshaft also needs to be replaced if the oil passages are clogged. Before replacing parts, check for play, damage, deformation, or shaft runout.

Independent Wheel Bearing Clearance Repair

If you feel or feel vibration in the steering column while driving, then most likely the clearance on the front wheels in the bearings of the hub itself has increased, so their service life will be reduced, and the tires will begin to wear unevenly. And if there is no gap at all, then the hub will rotate tightly, which will also lead to a decrease in service life, so its gap should be greater than zero fifteen ml. Adjustment of the front bearings is carried out using a wheelbrace wrench, a twenty-seven wrench and a hammer.

A wheel that is in a suspended state should be rocked; if there is play, the gap must be adjusted. After this, press the brake pedal and rock the wheel; if there is no play, then there is a gap in the bearings.
It is necessary to dismantle the decorative cap and unscrew the lock nut from the hub, and hold it with a wrench to prevent it from turning. When repairing the chassis while adjusting the hub, it is advisable to install new hub nuts, since even after adjustment there is a high probability that the old ones will take their original place, which will not allow them to be properly locked. If this is not possible, then you can take the nut from Drugov’s car.
Then you need to twist the hub nut so that the torque is 19.6 Nm. turning the hub several times, ninety degrees in two directions, will install the bearing itself. After this, loosen the adjusting nut and tighten it to 6.8 Nm. Having done all this, simply unscrew the nut twenty-five degrees.
After everything is done, change the collar of the nut on the pin of the external drive joint.
After the adjustment is made, check how the wheels rotate; if they rotate easily, then everything is fine. The final check can be made only after driving several kilometers without braking, assessing how the hub heats up.

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How to choose quality spare parts

Buy a camshaft from a reliable and time-tested company such as PJSC AvtoVAZ. There is a hologram print on the packaging. It flickers in the light and depicts the company logo. There is also a barcode sticker on the box. The product is packaged in blue translucent film. There is a seal from the quality control department inside the package. Buy rockers with adjusting bolts. There are levers of the new and old model. The holes in them vary in diameter and number of cuts. If you buy the arms and bolts separately, they most likely won't fit together.

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Remove camshaft

When replacing the camshaft, the engine must be cold. You will need:

New camshaft;
Set of levers with bolts;
Keys for 7, 8, 10, 13, 17 and 24;
Small and large screwdriver;
3 spare lever springs;
Railway;
Valve cover gasket;
Wrench

Remove the air filter, separate the tip, cable and drive rod.
If you have a carburetor engine, remove the fuel hose from the bracket; if it is an injector, disconnect the vacuum hose, air supply hose and remove the fuel filter from the bracket.
Remove the cylinder block cover.
Align the mark on the camshaft sprocket with the top dead center of the 4th cylinder. If you have a carbureted engine, you can remove the crankshaft using a special wrench. And if there is an injector, you need to jack up the car, engage fourth gear and turn the rear wheel.
Remove the gasket.
Bend the camshaft toothed washer with a chisel.
Engage fourth gear to lock the crankshaft.
Remove the tensioner.
Unscrew the nut and remove the sprocket. Tie the chain to the sprocket to prevent the links from jumping onto other teeth.
Remove the nuts and remove the camshaft.
Remove the rocker arm, bolts and springs.

PREPARATION FOR SERVICE OPERATIONS

Control of the tension of the chain drive of the gas distribution mechanism begins on an engine with a power system such as an injector or carburetor, similar to each other. The operation is performed in the sequence established by the manufacturer:

With this relative arrangement of parts, the piston of the fourth cylinder is at the dead center at the top. Now you can begin performing service work on engine systems, in particular, timing belt and some others.

Install new shaft

The engine oil must be lubricated before installing a new camshaft.

Check the lever springs. If they are broken or bent, replace them.
Tighten the adjustment bolts in place.
Install the springs, then attach the rocking chair to them.
You can now insert the camshaft along with the housing. Lubricate the camshaft levers, cams and journals. Install them and tighten them with a torque wrench. The procedure is performed from the center to the edge. Tightening torque - 2 kgf.

Rest

For other threaded connections, the tightening torques are as follows:

M6 - 10 Nm;
M8 - 25 Nm;
M10 - 50 Nm;
M12 - 105 Nm;
M14 - 180 Nm.

Let us remind you that we previously published a collection of technological instructions for Lada Vesta. With it you can repair your car yourself.

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Check time alignment

If the crankshaft and camshaft marks do not match, the engine will not run correctly. Installing time stamps on a VAZ 2107 injector is no different from the same procedure on carburetor engines. The mark on the crankshaft pulley must match the mark on the front engine cover. And the point on the rim of the camshaft sprocket should be opposite the beacon on the bed.

Align the sign on the star with the ledge

When putting on the sprocket, block the camshaft so that it is stationary. Do not tighten the nut completely. Align the marks on the camshaft by turning the sprocket. The chain should remain in its original position, so throw links until you reach the alignment of the mark and casting on the bed. Then move the crankshaft with a wrench a quarter turn counterclockwise. Turn the crankshaft in the opposite position so that the marks on it match. When the marks are aligned on the crankshaft and camshaft, tighten the nut on the camshaft sprocket using a wrench. Tightening torque - 5 kgf. Adjust the chain tension using the tensioner.

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Replacement of sprockets and timing chain of VAZ-2107i

I did this operation on my car last summer. I think it will be useful to someone. The car had already covered 200 thousand km, so I decided to do a mini-overhaul, almost completely replacing the timing mechanism myself. I decided not to touch the rocker with the camshaft for now and work on the chain with sprockets that have been there since the factory. Various sources write that the life of the chain is somewhere around 100-150 thousand, although even at 220 thousand it was tensioned well by the tensioner, and I didn’t notice much noise, perhaps due to timely maintenance and good oil. However, during diagnostics at the service center, the technician said that the valve timing angles had already dropped a little, so it was better to replace it. I decided to play it safe and replace it along with the stars, as is done wisely. We buy a set of sprockets, a chain, a new stabilizer and shoe, a front cover gasket, a front crankshaft oil seal, nuts, sealant, etc. from a trusted store.

First, let's provide access to the front cover - remove the cooling fan, radiator, drain the antifreeze from it, and decorative grille.

Then the engine protection and mudguard to provide access to the three cover mounting bolts from below.

Now we unscrew the crankshaft pulley nut (ratchet), we need a 36 wrench, or better yet a head, but we couldn’t find one, and the standard stamped wrench was bent and did not want to be unscrewed.

I also had to weld pipes from it for a 40 key, long enough to rest against the right side member.

It was not possible to unscrew it manually; I had to tear it off with the starter, resting it on the spar.

Next, remove the PCV sensor, alternator belt, valve cover and set the timing marks on the crankshaft pulley and camshaft sprocket at TDC of the 4th cylinder. Oddly enough, they completely coincided.

Then we remove the crankshaft pulley and the front cover, dismantle the shoe, damper, limiter and gears with the chain. We make sure that the marks do not go astray.

When comparing the old and new parts on the stars, I didn’t see any special workmanship, except for polishing on the sides.

The chain is also intact on the outside. The shoe and damper have minimal wear, as they have already been replaced relatively recently.

However, the old chain turned out to be 4-5 mm longer than the new one, which, according to the same data from the Internet, is already above the tolerance of 4 mm and requires its replacement.

Before installing new parts on the new camshaft sprocket and crankshaft pulley, we use a center punch to make additional marks at 90 and 180 degrees for convenience when adjusting the valves.

We put them in reverse order according to the marks and keys: first the shoe with the damper, then the upper sprocket with the chain, then the small sprocket and the middle one, check the marks again and tighten the chain. We carefully double-check everything and lock the retaining rings.

During assembly, due to inattention, I placed the small crankshaft gear with the “skirt” outward instead of inward, which is why the crankshaft was blocked when tightening the ratchet nut—I had to remove the cover again and rearrange it.

The marks coincided exactly again, as if nothing had changed.

Seal the front cover seal and gasket with sealant.

Also, instead of the usual nuts with engravers, I tightened the front cover with nuts with a nylon ring, which means they have the ability to unscrew and leak oil).

Let's count: Set of sprockets - 680 RUR Chain - 630 RUR Calculator - 70 RUR Shoe - 90 RUR Oil seal - 110 RUR Nuts, washers, gasket - 200 RUR Ratchet key - 150 RUR

It took a couple of days to do everything, although it could have been done in one. After replacing, I did not notice any major changes in the operation of the motor. After a couple of thousand, after grinding in the parts, you will need to tighten the chain again. But then you can sleep peacefully with another couple of hundred thousand mileage). A short video of the process:

Note Tip

To avoid having to replace the camshaft due to a malfunction, install a new shaft every 100,000 kilometers. Use high-quality oil, do not forget to change it on time and monitor its consumption. If the engine consumes more oil than necessary, the shafts will wear out faster.

Source

The correct operation of an internal combustion engine is a process that depends on many factors. The camshaft plays an important role in this, it is also the camshaft. Its task is to control the process of opening and closing the car engine valves, that is, the synchronization of engine cycles.

The camshaft isn't exactly a "fancy" engine component, but it also has a life of its own. On different cars, the duration of uninterrupted operation of the camshaft can vary from 50 to 150 thousand kilometers, depending on many facts and the stability of other engine systems.

Leading engine companies claim that in the future it will be possible to eliminate the camshaft from the car. An innovator in this regard is the Swedish company Freevalve, which has been developing a camshaftless engine for several years. She plans to abandon the mechanical part for fast electromagnetic drives that will be controlled by a computer.

Could the camshaft be knocking?

Problems such as crankshaft detonation are familiar to many drivers, but not everyone understands the moment when the camshaft begins to knock. This is because the sounds a driver hears in a similar situation are very similar. Determining that the crankshaft is knocking and not some other component of the car is quite simple:

The camshaft knock can be called “dull”, and this manifests itself when starting a cold engine;
The sounds made by a bad crankshaft, as mentioned above, are similar to those caused by problems with the camshaft, but there are some differences. If the crankshaft is knocking, the sound will become much louder when adjusting the speed.

It should be understood that knocking in the camshaft can only be heard with a “cold” engine, since during idling the oil completely leaves the rubbing parts. Once the engine starts, the oil will begin to lubricate the bearings. After some time, they will receive the required amount of oil, and the camshaft will stop knocking.

DEVICE AND FEATURES OF THE TIMING BELT DRIVE OF THE VAZ 2107 CAR

Production of the 8-valve 1.3-liter VAZ power unit with a belt instead of a timing chain began in 1979. Initially, the VAZ 2105 internal combustion engine was produced with the index 21011 and was intended for the Zhiguli model of the same name, but was later installed on other Tolyatti cars - the VAZ 2107 sedan and the VAZ 2104 station wagon. The decision to install a belt drive instead of a timing chain drive was caused by the increased noise of the latter. The engine, which was not the quietest, began to make even more noise as the mechanism parts wore out. The modernization made the power unit more modern, but in return it required increased attention to the condition of individual structural elements.

Camshaft knock: what to do

If the camshaft begins to knock on the car, the driver should be prepared to incur significant costs. At the same time, we are not talking about replacing the camshaft, since faulty hydraulic compensators or bearings can also cause detonation. Based on this, we can conclude that if there is a suspicion of knocking in the camshaft, you should send the car for diagnostics as soon as possible. It is quite possible that this will reveal not only problems in the units responsible for synchronizing the engine clocks, but also in other elements.

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It is important to note that by delaying diagnosis, the driver risks increasing the cost of repairs. If the hydraulic jacks begin to fail, the camshaft may not function properly. Based on this, the sooner the diagnosis is made and the cause of camshaft detonation is determined, the less likely it is to fail.

Cars that are not equipped with hydraulic lifters can drive more than 50,000 kilometers with camshaft shock, but after that you may need a complete engine replacement or overhaul.

REPLACING THE TIMING BELT FOR A VAZ 2107

The manufacturer declares the need to carry out routine maintenance to replace the timing belt every 60,000 km. At the same time, reviews from real owners of “belt” VAZs with a classic layout speak of the need for such a replacement, sometimes even immediately after 30 thousand, arguing that cracks and breaks appear on the surface of the belt. And, I must say, such statements are not unfounded - everything depends on quality. Russian-made rubber products are not durable, so it is recommended to change them much earlier - after 40 thousand km. Otherwise, the risk of getting stuck on the road with a non-working engine increases significantly. If we talk about the products of well-known foreign brands, then practice has shown that they easily fulfill the required term and even after that are in normal working condition. Still, you shouldn’t wait until the timing drive fails. The belt should be replaced immediately in the following cases:

Routine work is best carried out on a lift or from a viewing hole. Before starting the replacement, you need to prepare:

In addition, you need to have a metal brush and rags that can be used to clean dirty drive parts.

HOW TO REMOVE A WORN BELT

First of all, you need to disconnect and remove the battery from the car, and then remove the alternator drive belt. Using a “17” socket mounted on the extension, unscrew the nut that secures the electrical unit and move it towards the cylinder block. Once the belt is loosened, it can be removed from the pulleys with virtually no effort.

The timing mechanism drive protection casing has three components, so it is dismantled in several stages. First, using a 10mm wrench, remove the upper part of the casing. It is held in place by a bolt at the front of the valve cover. The middle and lower sections of the protective box are attached to the cylinder block - their dismantling also does not require much effort. Having gained access to the timing drive parts, you can begin to replace worn parts.

Why is the camshaft knocking?

The camshaft of a car consists of a number of elements, and the failure of most of them leads to a characteristic knocking sound when the car engine is running. If you hear camshaft knocking, you may have one of the following reasons:

Camshaft problems. In this situation, self-healing is impossible. You will need to spend time sharpening or sharpening the camshaft frame or completely changing the part;

Lubrication system malfunction. Even a slight deviation of the lubrication system from normal can lead to camshaft . On the other hand, the reason may be related not only to the small amount of incoming oil, but also to its quality. If, during the process of passing through the units, coolant or other impurities enter the oil, it begins to cope with the assigned tasks worse;
Deformation of the camshaft or its mechanical damage (parts thereof). The most common problems include blown camshaft bearings and broken journals;
The fuel supply process is disrupted;
Camera resource has been developed. This fault can be diagnosed if you are sure that the camshaft is knocking. If it continues to knock when the engine is running hot, the problem is worn knuckles.

This describes just some of the problems that can cause camshaft knock. The sooner a certain malfunction is detected by diagnostic equipment or visual inspection by specialists, the greater the chance of solving the problem before it begins to affect other elements of the device.

Source

Causes and types of malfunctions

During its operation, the timing shaft is constantly exposed to high temperatures and high dynamic loads. Therefore, it inevitably loses its properties and fails. When this happens, the driver begins to feel that the engine is losing power, and under load, a slight knocking noise occurs in the engine. If this happens, it's time to open the cylinder head.

So what could happen?

The cams or journals are worn out. Any part that rotates during its operation will naturally begin to wear out over time. The wear process can be accelerated by low oil pressure or poor quality, as well as manufacturing defects of the part itself. Worn cams cannot lift the intake valve properly, resulting in less fuel entering the cylinder than needed.
Camshaft deformation. Severe overheating of the engine, which occurs when the lubrication is not working well or when there are problems in the cooling system, leads to this type of breakdown. The malfunction can be identified by a characteristic knocking sound. It is prohibited to operate the car in this case - otherwise you can easily damage the operation of the entire gas distribution mechanism.
Shaft fracture. Sometimes it happens that the camshaft simply breaks, which may be a consequence of desynchronization in the timing system. The engine stops working, the valves become bent, the guides are damaged, and the piston group mechanisms are destroyed.