Procedure for replacing silent blocks of the rear suspension of Ford Focus 2

Today we will look at the procedure for replacing the silent blocks of the rear suspension on a Ford Focus 2 car.

Under the conditions of our roads, not a single passenger car suspension lasts for a long time, especially if it is independent, multi-link, using many elements.

But it should also be noted that usually problems with independent suspension often come down to wear of rubber elements - silent blocks, bushings, dampers, which are consumables and therefore require their replacement.

Often, passenger cars use a dependent suspension at the rear, which has a very simple design, and replacing worn out elements is not particularly difficult.

Suspension type

The Ford Focus 2 has an independent wishbone suspension at the rear, and replacing silent blocks on this car is not so simple. And yet, you can do them yourself in a garage.

The design of the Ford Focus 2 independent suspension includes a significant number of elements, but it uses only two silent blocks - on the trailing arms.

But to get to them, you will have to almost completely disassemble the suspension.

Replacing levers and silent blocks of the front suspension of Ford Focus 2

The Ford Focus 2 car brand is very popular in Russia, such cars are found on the roads quite often. The car is deservedly popular - it is very reliable, the front suspension is also durable, and the chassis parts almost always reach their intended service life.

But sooner or later parts fail and the machine needs repair. Replacing the silent blocks of the front levers of a Ford Focus 2 is usually required after a mileage of 100 thousand km, but during dynamic driving on bad roads, chassis repairs may be required earlier.

In this article we will look at how the front levers and separate silent blocks are changed on a Ford Focus, and how the chassis is diagnosed.

Ford Focus 2 front suspension

The front suspension of the FF-2 is MacPherson type, independent, it is designed very simply. A rigid subframe (front beam) is installed in the middle, to which two levers are attached on the sides.

A ball joint is riveted at the end of each arm, each of them is connected to a steering knuckle. At the top, the steering knuckles are connected to shock absorber struts, the rods of which are attached to the body through a support bearing.

Also included in the pendant are:

• springs;
• stabilizer with struts and bushings;
• hubs with bearings.

The front arms are connected to the subframe using two supports; to ensure a smooth ride of the car, silent blocks are pressed onto the arms at the point of attachment to the front beam; the subframe itself is rigidly connected to the body side members through bolts.

Ford Focus 2 front arm silent blocks

On the FF-2 car, two levers are installed on the front suspension - right and left. Each of them is attached to the subframe at two points, through silent blocks. Levers are sold assembled and vary in price, the price depending on the manufacturer. In addition to the original, parts are also produced by various companies, the most famous of them:

• Ruville;
• Konstein;
• Vaico;
• Mapco;
• ABS;
• Delphi;
• Febi;
• Optimal;
• TRW;

The cost of levers ranges from 1,500 to 10,000 rubles; parts can be purchased to order; some auto stores have them in stock.

Levers are most often replaced entirely when they are subject to mechanical damage (in an accident, running into an obstacle).

If there is play in the connection of the lever with the front beam, it is more advisable to change the silent blocks - this way the repair will be cheaper. The rear silent block of the front lever is pressed onto the axle; it is more massive.

The price of these parts varies, on average 1 piece. costs 1500-2500 rubles, for example, the Lemforder silent block sells for about 1650 rubles.

The front silent block of the front suspension arm is pressed into the body of the arm; it is less massive and simpler in design. The front ones are cheaper, their average price is 300-600 rubles. for 1 piece. (the cost of s/w Delphi is about 500 rubles).

Replacing the front lever Ford Focus 2

It is advisable to replace the entire front control arms on a Ford Focus if they have been damaged or are already quite worn out (they have exhausted their service life). Car owners should take into account that after replacing the levers, it is necessary to check and adjust the wheel angles at the wheel alignment stand.

We replace the lever as follows:

• Place the car on a level surface, jack it up and remove the wheel;
• Using an 18mm wrench, unscrew the ball joint nut and use a puller to disconnect the support from the steering knuckle;
• first unscrew the front bolt that secures the lever to the subframe;
• then unscrew the two bolts from the bottom at the back;
• we remove the lever, if it is necessary to change both, we similarly dismantle the second one;
• install new parts in place.

As you can see, changing the levers is very simple and quick; almost any driver with minimal metalworking skills can perform such work.

Replacing a ball joint for Ford Focus 2

The front suspension arm (FSL) is sold in car dealerships assembled with silent blocks and a ball joint, but if the FAL itself is still in good condition and the ball joint is loose, there is no point in changing the entire arm. Changing the support on the RP is not difficult; we perform this work in the following order:

• remove the lever from the car;
• take an electric drill with a 9 mm drill, drill out the rivets approximately halfway, there is no need to drill out the rivets to the end;
• using a chisel and a hammer we knock down the rivets;
• remove the ball joint from the lever;
• We install the new part on bolts and nuts.

Separately, a ball joint can be purchased in auto stores at a price from 650 to 1350 rubles; spare parts are produced by the following companies:

In the package, along with the part itself, there are three nuts with three bolts securing the support to the lever, as well as a nut securing the support to the steering knuckle. This is very convenient - you don’t need to look for fasteners when replacing a part.

Replacing the front silent block of the suspension arm of a Ford Focus 2

To repress the small silent block of the front RP, it is more convenient to use a puller, but if you don’t have one at hand, you can try to repress the s/w using improvised means. To do this, you will need a piece of pipe of the appropriate diameter and a bolt (stud) with a nut and washers.

To make the block move easier from its place, treat it with WD-40 and let it sit for some time (15-20 minutes).

We place a thick wide washer under the piece of pipe, turn the nut with a wrench, and begin to press out the steel.

We take a new sales block and press it into the lever.

The new s/b may be difficult to fit, so you need to be patient and take your time. The sales block is pressed in in the same way as it is pressed out. It is necessary to install the rubber seal so that the rubber flanges protrude from the iron.

To make the salenblock fit into place more easily, it would not be superfluous to treat the outside with silicone grease. The lubricant will not corrode the rubber, but it will be easier to press in the s/b.

Pressing in the rear silent block of a Ford Focus 2

It is difficult to press out the rear silent block on the Focus, and since it has already served its purpose and is not needed, it can be removed in any way. We do this:

• we knock down the outer ring; if you apply force, it should move out of its place;
• We cut off the inner ring with a grinder; here it is important not to cut down the lever itself;
• we clean the seat under the s/b from dirt, sand it, and lubricate it with lithol;
• we heat the inner race of the sales block and cool the lever pin in ice water;
• Until the s/b has cooled down, quickly put it in place, while aligning the marks. The marks on the silent block are two slots in its body; they need to be aligned with the “edge” of the lever (see the figure below);
• Having installed the s/b, we finish it in place with a hammer.
• We put the lever on the car and go to adjust the wheel alignment.

How to diagnose Ford Focus 2 suspension

If a knock appears in the Focus 2 suspension, it is not at all necessary; it occurs due to faulty levers. There may be knocking noises in the chassis of the car:

• shock absorbers;
• steering rods and ends;
• front strut support bearings;
• bushings and stabilizer links.

Diagnostics of a car's chassis usually begins with shock absorbers. All car enthusiasts are well aware that the main function of shock absorbers is to dampen vertical vibrations. If the shock absorber struts are faulty, the car will sway violently up and down when driving on uneven roads and when cornering.

We check the serviceability of the shock absorbers very simply - when the car is standing still, we press on one front corner of the body with our hands and immediately release our hands. If the car immediately returns to its original position, the shock absorber struts are working properly.

If the body continues to move for some time, it means that the shock absorbers have lost their elasticity (they do not hold), and therefore they need to be replaced.

We check the other side in the same way, and you also need to know that the shock absorbers can knock as the car moves - the knock is clearly audible on an uneven road.

You can check the serviceability of the shock absorber strut in another way - with both hands, grab the wheel in its upper part, and rock it with movements towards you and away from you.

If play is felt at the same time, the shock absorber may be faulty, but there may be other reasons for the defect in the suspension.

To confirm your guess about a faulty shock absorber, you need to inspect the arch above the wheel; if the shock absorber rod is stained with oil, it means the strut is leaking and should be replaced.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6cE0Rjzq1E

To check the play in the steering rods, you need to swing the wheel left and right by hand; to check, the wheel should be hung on a jack or car lift. Then you need to pull the steering tip and rod with your hand - parts with play need to be replaced.

Play when the wheel rocks up and down may also indicate that the wheel bearing is faulty. The bearing is also checked by hanging the wheel, but in this case the wheel still needs to be rotated with one hand, holding the spring with the other hand (so that it does not create unnecessary vibrations). Increased noise when the wheel spins indicates that the bearings are humming and faulty.

How to check the condition of the silent blocks of the front arms of a Ford Focus 2

Checking the condition of the Ford Focus 2 should be done on a pit or a lift.

The malfunction of the rear silent block can be determined by external inspection - if the rubber is torn, it will be noticeable that the rubber has peeled off from the metal, or the rubber clip has dried out and cracked.

The front s/w is more reliable and fails less often, but it also wears out over time. The condition of the front sales block can also be judged by its appearance - if the rubber begins to stick out from the body or has lost elasticity, the block should be changed.

Reasons for replacement

The reasons why the rear suspension silent blocks of the Ford Focus 2 are replaced are common to all independent suspensions:

1. The appearance of knocking noises when driving over uneven surfaces;
2. Accelerated wear of rear tires;
3. The rear of the car pulls when performing maneuvers.

If these symptoms appear, you should not delay replacing the silent blocks, since the rear suspension is constantly under heavy loads, which, if the rubber elements are damaged, can lead to the need for a complete replacement of all its elements.

Replacing the Focus trailing arm

A silent block is installed in the front part of the Ford Focus trailing arm, through which the arm is secured with two bolts to the body. The rear wheel hub assembly is secured to the rear of the lever with four screws. Replacement of the lever is required when it is deformed or the silent blocks are worn.

As with other levers, we carry out replacement work in a pit or overpass (lift) with removal of the spring and wheel. Plus you need to place a stop under the lower arm. Without an adjustable stop, removing the bolts from the silent block eyes will be problematic.

Remove the three wheel speed sensor wire holders from the trailing arm holes and disconnect the wire block from the wheel speed sensor.

Using a 10mm head, unscrew the self-tapping screw securing the stop of the parking brake cable sheath and remove the stop from the hole in the lever.

Disconnect the lower end of the shock absorber from the trailing arm, then disconnect the transverse suspension arms from the trailing arm.

We remove the hub assembly, then use a 15mm head to unscrew the two bolts securing the lever to the body and remove the trailing arm.

Install the new trailing arm in reverse order. An important point - we finally tighten the threaded connections in the “vehicle on wheels” position (under load), this will extend the life of Ford Focus silent blocks.

What do you need to prepare for work?

Everything you need to complete the work of replacing the rear suspension silent blocks of a Focus 2 is listed below:

• Garage with inspection hole;
• Jacks (one must be hydraulic);
• Stops;
• Sets of open-end wrenches, heads with collars (keys 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17, 19, 21, 22 are required), wheel wrench;
• Devices for tightening springs;
• WD-40;
• Puller (three-jawed);
• Bushing for pressing out silent blocks;
• New silent blocks.

We change the rear silent blocks of the rear levers on a Ford Focus 2 with our own hands

Unlike cheaper models, the rear suspension of the second generation Ford Focus has a modern, complex design.
This multi-link system, which provides independent suspension of the rear wheels. Thanks to this suspension design, the car received a soft, comfortable ride, good lateral and longitudinal stability. But, as you know, the more parts there are in a system, the more difficult it is to repair. How the Ford Focus rear suspension works and what algorithm is used to replace the rear silent blocks of the rear control arms, how to choose the right ones instead of the original, we’ll figure it out today. If the eyelet holes do not fall into place, then all your work was in vain. Photo for clarity below.

Only with the help of this device will you be able to replace the silent blocks of the Ford Focus 2 trailing arms. There are many types of silent blocks on the market, but Lemforder elements have long remained one of the most popular.

Here are their catalog numbers: Lemforder 01, this is a silent block of rear wishbones, to replace them you need four, the inner diameter of the bushing is 12.2 mm, the outer diameter of the holder is 32.2 mm; Lemforder 01 — silent block of a curved rear lever with an internal bushing of 12.2 mm, holder diameter 36.2; Febi is sold as a kit on both sides with mounting bolts, installed in front of the rear trailing arm; ten Febi bolts with M12x1.75 thread, head with a diameter of 24 mm for a 15mm wrench; two adjusting bolts for installing Mazda BP4KZB camber; two adjusting washers Mazda BP4KA; Hanse HR - lower rear wishbone, outer silent block, inner bushing with a diameter of 12.3 mm, outer race 36.3 mm; inner silent block of the lower wishbone, Hanse HR diameters are the same; two Lemforder anti-roll bar bushings All spare parts look something like this Preparing the silent blocks of the trailing arms for Ford Focus 2 and replacement accessories Before changing the silent blocks of the rear arms on the Focus, you need to make sure that all the necessary tools and accessories are at hand.

Replacing the rear silent block of the trailing arm Ford Focus 2

First of all, you will need either pullers with grips for pressing out silent blocks, or a press. It is far from possible to knock out the bushings with a sledgehammer, even if you have spacers of the required diameter. But spacers are still necessary. Here are the silent blocks of the Ford Focus 2 trailing arms, drawings and dimensions. This is a spacer for pressing out the silent blocks of a spring-loaded rear lever: And this spacer is used to press out the bushings of a curved wishbone: And these are the dimensions of the spacer for removing the silent blocks of a straight wishbone: Dimensions of the spacer.

In addition, we will need a standard tool, a set of sockets, aerosol penetrating lubricant and a tie for removing the spring, as well as a standard jack and an adjustable hydraulic jack stand.

Before dismantling the silent blocks, I advise you to measure the distances indicated; this will help you easily install the lever in place and get into the required holes.

I used a wooden corner, one side on the end of the front silent, and on the other I outlined with a pencil the installation locations for the rear bolts.

The new one scored and controlled according to this pattern. Removing and installing the silent blocks of the front lever Since the rubber in them was already torn, the outer race was removed without problems with hammer blows.

The silumin rings at the ends can either be knocked down or sawed with a grinder. Next we start cutting off the inner rim.

Replacing rear silent blocks for Ford Focus 2

We cut off the excess rubber with a knife and carefully cut the silent blocks of the Ford Focus 2 trailing arms with a grinder, trying not to touch the lever itself, then cut through it with a chisel. I didn’t take a photo, I was too carried away by the process: I measured it with a ruler on the second lever, and then tried it on a couple of times on the car - it’s not difficult to just insert it and you can immediately see the mismatch of the holes in the silent block.

Don't kick me, like: I heard it all!

And in the end: The car is mine! I do what I want, even if I cut it with a chainsaw. And the ass that rides in it is also mine - if anyone remembers about safety!

Sorry, it broke - I'm tired of flooders. Well, now we put everything in place.

Don’t forget about lubricant and thread locker: On the rear silent block - strong fixation, “unremovable” red, on the front - medium blue. Fans can pour Movil on top of the nuts and seal them with plasticine - even on a VAZ, after 5 years such nuts can be unscrewed “by hand.”

The ball nuts fit domestic ones, but I used old ones. By the way, I always lubricate the ball finger with a thin one!

Features of replacing silent blocks

A special feature of the silent blocks used on the Focus 2 rear suspension is their design.

Its metal component is a plate with two eyes, through which the trailing arm is attached to the car body.

The edges of this plate protrude significantly beyond the rubber component of the silent block, so it will not be possible to use a device for pressing out conventional silent blocks here.

To replace the silent block, you can use a conventional three-jaw puller and bushing.

The bushing can be made from a section of thick-walled pipe with an internal diameter of 35-40 mm.

It is enough to take a piece 70 mm long. The hole on one side needs to be sealed.

To do this, you will need a thick-walled washer, without a hole in the center, the diameter of which must correspond to the outer diameter of the pipe.

For convenience, this washer can be welded to the pipe, making something like a glass, but you don’t have to do this; it is enough to place the prepared washer on a section of pipe before pressing out.

The sequence of pressing out is as follows: on the one hand, a bushing is placed on the silent block, while the protruding eye goes inside it.

The puller's jaws grip the edges of the lever, the puller screw, which should rest against the washer on the bushing, is slowly turned in and the bushing squeezes out the silent block.

IMPORTANT: Remember how deep the silent block was and at what angle it was installed.

Pressing in a new silent block is done in exactly the same way. It is only important that the length of the legs and the puller screw is sufficient.

Or you can use a 22 head and carefully hit only the inner ring.

Make sure that the silent block does not go too deep, otherwise you will not be able to pull it out.

Sequencing

So, having all the tools and devices at hand, as well as new silent blocks, you can start disassembling the car.

1. The machine is placed on an inspection hole and secured with wheel chocks. Since the suspension is independent, the silent blocks are changed alternately, first on one side, then on the other;
2. On the side that will be replaced, the wheel fastening is loosened, then the car is jacked up and the wheel is completely removed;
3. Ties are placed on the suspension spring and it is tightened. It is important to monitor the installation of the ties to prevent the possibility of slippage.
4. A hydraulic jack is placed under the rear hub, and it is jacked up somewhat. This is done so that it is possible to unscrew the bolts securing the arms and shock absorber.
5. The bolts securing the lower and upper wishbones, as well as the bolt securing the shock absorber, are unscrewed. After unscrewing and removing all the bolts, the jack is removed. Having removed the lower arm mounting bolt from the hole, it lowers down, which makes it possible to remove the spring.
6. Next, the hook for fixing the handbrake cable is bent. You also need to unscrew the bolt securing the ABS wiring. Then you will need to remove the brake system caliper from the hub, for which two bolts securing it are unscrewed.
7. The two bolts securing the trailing arm are tightened, and it, together with the hub, is removed from the car.
8. Next, the silent block is pressed out using a puller with a sleeve.
9. Assembling one side of the suspension is done in the reverse order.

When performing the replacement, you should also pay attention to the condition of all suspension elements, and if even the slightest damage is detected, it is better to immediately replace this element.

The operation to replace the second silent block is identical to that described above.