Hi all. Today I’ll tell you how easy it is to cook it out of the blue and take a very long time to figure out what’s what! In order: One morning. during normal driving I see the treasured inscription “Engine malfunction, acceleration reduced”, although this did not affect the driving in any way... To be honest, there was little information on the forum. I found somewhere that replacing the pedal helped someone. In some other places people just throw an error. I initially decided that this was not normal and took care of the problem. I went for diagnostics. and of course she won’t show anything. but thanks to Yura KaMS ENGINEERING for noticing sometimes jumping voltage on the first channel of the gas pedal. The conclusion was not clear. Perhaps a pedal, perhaps a connector. maybe something else. I decided to use the method of elimination, change the pedal... I started unscrewing it and found the top pin that had been torn off... after 4 hours, the attempt to unscrew it was something like this: #@$*&#@($*#@&$)(*&#@$ .
As a result, I went to the service center... THERE they were able to remove the pedal and install a new one without removing the pedal assembly! For which a big thank you to the master. OK. further. The pedal has been changed. We started the car, the reaction to the gas disappeared completely. The machine does not respond... There was no person who could make a diagnosis that day. he would only be this Friday. (I was there on Monday). I left the car there without its original condition. The day passed, impatience seethed within me. being without a car for 5 days is tough.
Then I called a friend and offered to drive to the service center and deliver my old pedal to him! We arrived, I took the pedal and stuck it on him. and voila. the car works and there are no errors, it reacts to the pedal... It immediately became clear that the problem was not in the pedal at all. I went to feel the connector and the wires on it. everything is fine there.
Next, I decided to check the wiring going to the ECU because... the signal from the pedal comes exactly there. I unwound the entire braid. and I find it!
How do you like it? Find a couple of bare wires right next to the ECU. I would still go with this. but I don’t want to imagine what would happen next. I think - Well, here they are. I wrapped it up, monitored the wiring further along the braid, everything is fine! I'm putting everything in its place. And the pedal works, I drove around the service history in a circle, everything is good. I think, well, finally.
We decided to go home. Let's leave, let's go. We drive about 3-4 km. and the treasured inscription, “engine malfunction, speed limited” - I’ll put it on the side of the road and turn on the emergency lights. The pedal doesn't work again. I'm sitting thinking what to do next. And then either go back to the service center, it’s still 3-4 km. in 1st gear at idle. funny isn't it? Then I thought, how can we start going uphill from XX? It doesn't seem like it. Or in tow. I turn off the pedal and it works. Let's get going. I'm accelerating. turns off again. In general, this is how I drove home, turned it off and started it right on the move.
On the second day, I dressed up as a mechanic and went to figure out what was going on. because even in other places they were ready to receive me no earlier than Friday. I uncoiled the ECU harness again. carefully inspect each posting. I didn't find anything. I climbed further. I disassembled the steering column and removed part of the dashboard. I looked through everything there! I removed the threshold and what do I see! Just tough. the braid of wires seems to have been cut with a blunt axe! It's not very visible in the photo. but the culprit is very clearly visible. There is green dust in the yellow wire. It looks like it was short, so it fell off. I came to cut and extend 2 wires, the rest seem to be working! In general, it took almost the whole day to do everything. I made the following conclusion. woe is the signal installers, I don’t know which wires are responsible for what and call their testetorm. leaving holes in the insulation (the veins themselves are visible) + they did not put the braid under the carpet. and under the plastic threshold. Well, where it’s weak, it breaks. as a result it happened! I've done everything. The pedal worked steadily. I went for a drive and the error “Brake light error” came up... I THINK, well, again (of course, after a whole day of torment, something else seems just a finishing gesture). As it turned out, there were sensors on the brake pedal (they were removed when the pedal was removed). Calibrated, corrected everything and the error disappeared. Like this! I always tried not to trust the car to just anyone. And I still didn’t follow it! Be vigilant and check the work done yourself! Do you still want it to be good? Do it yourself!
Check engine, what is it?
This is what a CHECK looks like on a restyled Focus 2.
If the Check Engine icon lights up on the panel, there is no need to panic.
Yes, an error can be caused by a dying convulsion of the engine, but this would have to be preceded by a whole chain of malfunctions, signals of failures and errors. There is no smoke without fire, so any violation in the operation or settings of the engine systems may be accompanied by a burning Check Engine icon.
There is no need to panic, but there is no need to brush the problem aside either. Initially, on older cars, an orange pictogram depicting a motor indicated a malfunction in the power system, usually problems with the carburetor. But as the design of engines becomes more complex and the number of control electronics increases, the cause of the error can be anything - from a broken high-voltage wire to ground, to poor quality gasoline.
Determining the cause of the Check Engine error
The second generation Ford Focus is packed with sensors and electronics, and the cause of the error may be the failure of one of the sensors or a change in its operating conditions.
It is almost impossible to solve the problem using scientific poking. If we are lucky, without an accurate diagnosis we can guess that it is time to change the spark plugs, replace them and the lamp will go out. But it can also burn due to an insufficient level of antifreeze in the tank, a loose fuel tank cap, or a lack of contact on one of the million sensors in the cabin, engine or body. Guessing the problem chain is a huge luck.
Diagnostics
The simplest cheap diagnostic scanner.
To accurately determine the reasons for the appearance of the Check Engine message, you will have to use a special diagnostic computer that connects to the car’s CAN bus and reads all information from the electronic control unit about errors.
After scanning the system, the computer will display a list of errors (and there will definitely be some), using this list a specially trained diagnostician determines the most likely cause of the Check Engine.
Trouble codes are indicated by a letter and a set of numbers, for example, P1139 Water in Fuel Indicator Circuit , which means water has entered the power system. Or P202A Reductant Tank Heater Control Circuit / Open - depressurization or missing contacts on the cooling system sensors. The Check Engine will only go off when the actual problem has been corrected.
Excessive engine heating: why and what to do?
Many Ford Focus owners have encountered a situation where the engine gets very hot for no apparent reason, which forces them to stop and wait until it cools down. There can be many reasons for this, but the main ones are:
- Thermostat malfunction.
- Insufficient amount of fluid and cooling system malfunction.
- Radiator malfunction.
- Problems with the exhaust valve.
- Incorrect operation.
This is just a small list of possible reasons why the engine is overheating. Let's take a closer look. The thermostat may fail due to dirt getting into it or a leak. As a result, it will start to malfunction, especially when the engine gets hot and reaches high temperatures. The thermostat will simply ignore the engine temperature.
How to reset errors and get rid of Check Engine
The most correct and reliable way to remove the check engine icon from the panel is to eliminate the malfunction, but to do this you need to go through a full diagnostic on a computer and study the error codes. Removing the negative terminal from the battery will only temporarily turn off the light, and a malfunction can lead to more expensive repairs. Therefore, if it was not possible to eliminate the error in the garage, it is better to use the services of at least a diagnostic center, where they will most likely indicate problems with the engine. Good luck to everyone on the road and let the Check Engine light on the dashboard light up as little as possible!
Sometimes the car dashboard “pleases” the car owner with interesting messages. One of these messages is “Check Engine”. It appears on the panels of a variety of cars, including the Ford Focus 2. We will talk about what a lit check means and how to get rid of it in this article.
Summarizing
For normal operation, the engine must be within a certain temperature range. If some kind of malfunction appears, an error appears on the computer and the motor gets very hot, then you must immediately stop driving. Despite the fact that the reason may be quite minor and easily removable, operating a car with a boiling engine can lead to its complete failure and very expensive repairs. Therefore, you should not tempt fate, maintain it correctly and the second generation Ford Focus will not let you down.
How to reset in modern cars
The appearance of the “Check Engine” icon on a Ford Focus 2 car can be caused by a variety of reasons: from problems with sensors to a loose gas tank cap. Usually, computer diagnostics are used to “calculate the culprit.” If it is not possible to carry it out, there is only one thing left: to act by the method of elimination.
We list the most common reasons for the Check Engine light to turn on and troubleshooting methods:
- The indicator lights up during the trip, but no problems with the engine are observed (the speed does not drop, it works stably, there is no extraneous noise, it responds well to pressing the gas pedal). Probable cause: low engine oil level. This means you need to stop, open the hood and check. If there is really little oil, it needs to be added. After this, the indicator usually goes out (however, this does not happen immediately, but after 10–15 minutes).
- The indicator lights up against the background of obvious problems with the engine (idling speed began to float, and when driving the engine constantly “troubles”). Possible cause: problems with the spark plugs or high-voltage wires. In this case, the integrity and contacts of the wires are carefully checked. If the problem persists, install a new set of spark plugs.
- Fuel level is too low. Sometimes the indicator turns on because of this. What happens is that there is not enough fuel in the tank, so the pressure in the fuel system decreases, and the fuel pump begins to gradually suck in air. At some point, when diagnosing the fuel system, an error occurs and the indicator turns on. The solution is obvious: add gasoline.
- The icon may also appear due to bad gasoline. Solution: drain the low-quality gasoline and refuel elsewhere.
- The gas tank cap is not screwed on tightly. This is the most common reason for the indicator to turn on. Due to a leak in the tank, air is sucked into the tank, causing fuel consumption to change slightly. This is detected by sensors and an icon appears. Solution: screw the lid on tighter.
- The oxygen flow sensor (aka lambda probe) has failed. Solution: Replace the faulty sensor.
- The air flow sensor (MAF) is faulty. Solution: check the resistance and voltage of the sensor with a multimeter, compare the recorded values with the values in the instructions. If they are very different, replace the sensor.
- The ignition coil is faulty. Solution: make sure there is a spark at the coil. Measure the resistance at the outputs with a multimeter. If the resistance spread at the outputs does not correspond to that stated in the instructions, replace the coil.
- The catalyst has failed. This reason usually occurs on older cars. Solution: the muffler is removed and the condition of the catalyst is assessed. If he really is the problem, he changes.
- The fuel filter or fuel pump is clogged. This will lead to a change in pressure in the vehicle's fuel system and the indicator will light up. Solution: the pressure in the fuel rail is checked, then the primary fuel purification grid and the degree of contamination of the filter itself are checked for contamination. All this is thoroughly washed with kerosene and, if necessary, replaced.
- Clogged injectors. Solution: the injectors are removed, installed on a stand that simulates engine operation, and washed with a special solvent.
Speed limit mode - engine fault
Lots of letters, almost a thriller. So I’ll tell you: the joy after rebuilding the fuel pump did not last long. After some time, the car began to slow down, and it felt like 124 horses had run away and there was only one dead filly left... after a long stay in traffic jams, I went straight and simply pressed the pedal to the floor until it crunched, the car barely accelerated, and sometimes with jerks, I thought Khan's gas pump had arrived... I arrived at the place, an hour later I went out and the horses were back in the harness, rushing like a tank, I thought about overheating, looked at the radiators - clean as a Komsomol member's tear, only a little dusty. Two years after this incident, I went to the region and again there were traffic jams, and then suddenly I got stuck again, well, I think okay, the main thing is to get there, I didn’t have time to think to the end when the car with the grinder rushes forward (it was rolling in first gear at low gas) and the bricks started falling because it stopped 10 centimeters from the front Lacetti, after stopping the revs dropped and everything became ok, I start to move away... the car pulls as it should, but then suddenly, as if it was pulled by the tail, the revs drop, I release the gas, squeeze the clutch and the car is already jumping in place (troits , sometimes doubles) and the screen solemnly displays the inscription “engine system malfunction”, “acceleration is reduced”, when you press the pedal the speed rises and stops tripling, but the mares run away again and I’m moving to the side of the road with a slipping clutch. I turn off the car and start it up, everything is ok, I drive 100 meters and the situation repeats itself. In general, this is how I got to my destination and parked the car. In the morning we have to return to the city, I start everything up fine, the car was driving half the way: the engine is spinning like a tank, just manage to change gears, and there’s a traffic jam at the entrance again and oops! again such a glitch. While I was driving, I called an online store I knew and urgently ordered a TPS (I concluded that it was because when the engine started to suck, I removed the pipe from the filter and the flap moves back and forth almost 5 mm and knocks heavily). I got home, took the laptop and went into the car to see what kind of wonderful mistakes Dad Fedor wrote and as a result of errors 2110 and 2111, I think the TPS is definitely doing the brains. Half an hour later they bring me the TPS, I install it and go prancing around the area, the car runs as it should, everything is ok. At night I drive 100 km to the region and back, more than 200 km flew by perfectly (I think: well, everything works).
The next day, on my way to work, I get stuck in traffic and whack! again the treasured inscription on the screen and a free massage from the engine, only now everything is a little worse, I stop on the side of the road, turn it off (the car does not stall right away but also jerks a couple of times) and what do you think, it won’t start, just after the 5th time the engine has been spinning for a long time The starter barely started. I dragged myself to work and, spitting on work, began to frantically revive my fufika. I connect the computer - the same errors P2110 and P2111, I was upset and sitting in the car on my phone I read the forum, I understand that there are only two tubers with these two errors and I read their comments. Thank you so much Gran17
for his description of how to fix the problem, I quickly literally opened the damper on my knee, took out the motor and began to chop it up (in fact, everything is very easy to disassemble), so let’s disassemble it:
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Using pliers, we bend the tails that secure the motor cover and take out the rotor with brushes (just pay attention! if the rotor comes out a little and then resists, do not pull, otherwise you will break the plastic rim of the brushes, these tails that were bent are in the way, you need to bend them a little from the axis of the motor and everything will turn out fine)
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As a result, I discovered the probable source of the problems: graphite dust had accumulated between the contacts for the brushes and most likely damaged two windings at once.
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I cleaned all the tracks; by the way, there is also a lot of dust and shavings inside the motor, which easily gets between the magnets and gets onto the rotor.
I assembled everything, bent the whiskers (although it was possible not to do this; the motor cover is attached with two screws and presses the stator itself to the damper body), put the damper on the motor, connected the wires, turned on the ignition - it buzzes as before, but stands still. I press the pedal and it responds immediately and not with a delay as before. I put everything back, started it up and successfully drove home, but in the evening I went out with the guys and, just in case, soldered the contacts in the DZ connector (I took it apart and bit off a couple of centimeters of the wire and soldered it), if you don’t have exactly the same minifits for the connector on hand, then unplug it already crimped wires will not work, so I had to solder them.
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So my sensor is fine, it was not a problem with the reel. When I was changing the sensor, I turned the motor by hand, apparently that’s why he gave me time to go get summer tires)))
So before you change anything, you first need to check everything and everyone and then pay the money. As a result, I have one working sensor (I’ll put it in the topic for sale).
Py. SY. The flight was normal for 4 days, with or without traffic jams, the car responded sharply to the gas and rushed like a tank. PyPY. SY. The buzzing of the damper is associated with wear and slight play of the gears, the humming of the motor equalizes the DPZ readings because because of the play there is a discrepancy, so it supports it back and forth, hence the sound (this is my opinion after rebuilding the throttle assembly)
Good luck to everyone, write. I will help as much as I can.
What to do if the fault light is blinking
Sometimes the Check Engine light will only appear on the dashboard for a few seconds and then go off. This is usually observed when the engine starts. In this case, the following happens: after turning the key in the ignition switch, the ECU (electronic control unit) diagnoses all engine systems within a few seconds. If the self-test is successful, the indicator goes off. The appearance of the “Check Engine” icon before the end of the self-diagnosis indicates only one thing: the problem is clearly not in the engine. With a faulty engine the light would not go out. This means that first of all you need to check the tank cap, the gasoline level, its quality, etc.
How to remove "Check Engine" on restyling
The Ford Focus car range was restyled in 2008. The appearance of the car has changed (body shape, headlights, mirrors, radiator grilles). The shape of the dashboard has changed. The equipment has changed a little. Only the engines remained unchanged. And even the notorious gas tank caps are still the same (as are the gas tanks themselves). Consequently, the “Check Engine” icon will regularly irritate not only the owners of old cars, but also the owners of cars manufactured after 2008.
So, eliminating the annoying icon can be a very difficult task, since you will have to check literally everything - from spark plugs to fuel sensors and gasoline. Someone finds a problem at the very beginning of this path. Someone is less lucky and manages to disassemble half the engine. But the garage has not yet come up with another way to solve this problem.
