How to lubricate brake pad guides. Lubrication when replacing brake pads. Lubrication requirements

When servicing brake calipers or completely replacing them, it is recommended to lubricate their rubbing surfaces: guides (pins), working cylinder piston, clamping brackets. This is written in the manual of any car. But if you do this incorrectly and with unsuitable lubricants, you can render most of the components of the caliper unusable.

To understand how to properly lubricate all elements of the caliper, and how such maintenance can be carried out, you should initially understand the following questions:

Under what conditions does this disc brake element have to work?
What requirements must the lubricant chosen for it meet?

Calipers operate under the most difficult conditions, the first of which is significant temperature. During sharp and frequent braking, when driving on high mountain serpentines or an aggressive driving style, the temperature of a disc brake pad can reach 600°C.

Moreover, after heat removal and cooling, the temperature of some parts of the caliper reaches 180°C or more. They are also periodically exposed to: dirt, water, reagents that are sprinkled on winter roads. And when the piston sealing rings wear out in the cylinder, brake fluid gets in. Therefore, for the smooth operation of these brake elements, special lubricants must be used. If you lubricate them with graphite paste, nigrol, lithol, then these substances simply will not withstand such operating conditions.

In addition to the fact that such lubricants dissolve, wash out and coke, they can have a detrimental effect on the anthers. All this can lead to jamming of the pistons of the working cylinders, guides (fingers), brake failure and unforeseen consequences.

Requirements

To choose the right lubricant for pins (guides), pistons in caliper cylinders and other elements, you need to focus on the requirements described below:

The lubricant must be non-aggressive to rubber, elastomeric and plastic parts.
It must remain resistant to brake fluid, water and other aggressive substances that can dissolve and wash it away.
It is necessary that this lubricant can be high-temperature and withstand heat of 180°C or more. That is, so that it does not melt under increased thermal loads and does not leak.
It also needs to not lose its properties at sub-zero temperatures, which can reach –35°C and below.

Therefore, you should not listen to “figures” who broadcast that you can use lithol and other similar lubricating substances for these purposes. After all, this is fraught not only with breakdowns of this unit, but also with the possibility of significant financial losses in the event of an accident.

Violation of the brake system replacement algorithm

An equally important reason for the appearance of various sounds is a violation of the algorithm for installing pads and discs. Unfortunately, it is a very common belief that replacing brake pads is an easy task for any level of mechanic. Many “specialists” carry out the replacement, as they say, “by eye,” without even trying to check the manufacturer’s instructions.

Step-by-step information reflects all the important nuances: from tightening torque to the need to replace the guides

Perhaps, in comparison with many procedures, replacing brakes will indeed seem like a simple operation, but certainly not an elementary one, especially taking into account the characteristics of each specific car. According to a Bosch technical expert, mechanics in the official services of the German brand clearly follow step-by-step instructions from the diagnostic tablet. It is important to note that the algorithm recommended in it is the instructions directly from the manufacturer of the specific car that is in operation. In addition, data on disc wear is also provided there. On modern cars it averages 0.4–0.6 mm. By the way, this dispels another myth about checking disc wear by tactile means. It is unlikely that a human finger has the ability to differentiate such a miniscule reduction in the working surface. So if you still managed to “feel” a worn disk, this means that it should have been changed “yesterday”.

A Bosch technical expert dispelled another myth that disc thickness does not play a significant role in car braking: “The car brakes because kinetic energy is converted into heat. The more heat is created, the more intense the car brakes. Simply put, the brake system's job is to create heat through friction, which is why disc thickness is so important. The mass of the disk dissipates heat well: the larger it is, the better the heat is dissipated. Therefore, the thickness of 0.4 mm is specified by the automaker for a reason: these half a meter of braking can save lives.”

What types of lubricants are there?

If you meticulously find out who produces these lubricants, you will find out that for the famous brands indicated on the packaging, these lubricants are produced by specialized companies. But the conversation is not about them, but about how these substances are divided, and which one is better suited for lubricating the guides and other elements of the caliper.

In this case, they can be divided into several different types, each of which contains several lubricants that correspond in their characteristics to the operating conditions of various elements of the disc brake caliper.

Synthetic or mineral pastes with added metals

In the first group, it is worth considering high-temperature lubricating pastes with Anti-Seize properties. These lubricating substances contain entirely or partly a synthetic as well as a mineral base. With the addition of synthetic thickeners, submicron particles of metals such as molybdenum or copper. Also, instead of metals, solid substances of lubricants can be used, which work successfully at super-temperature values. This group includes:

Complex lubricating paste products.
Metal-free pastes.
Lubricants containing copper or molybdenum disulfide.

They can be used to cover anti-squeak plates, pressure springs, and the back side of the pads.

Here you can highlight pastes from the following major brands: Huskey, Loctite, Wurth, LIQUI MOLY, Textar, Mannol Kupfer, Valvoline Cooper, Motip Koperspray, Bosch SUPERFIT.

Mineral oil based pastes

The second group includes synthetic lubricating pastes, which are based on mineral oil with the addition of a bentonite thickener, containing fatty acids and metal particles. Their distinctive feature is the absence of a dropping point with a working range from –45°C to +180°C. Excellent for lubricating brake caliper guides (fingers). Here are several such pastes from different manufacturers: ATE Plastilube, Loctite Plastilube, Molykote.

Synthetic oil based pastes

Well, the third group includes lubricating pastes intended for all moving elements of the disc brake caliper: piston in the cylinder, guides (pins), etc. They are compatible with most rubber-based materials, elastomers and plastics. They are based on highly purified synthetic oils with the addition of a stable thickener and additives with anti-wear, antioxidant and anti-corrosion properties.

Such lubricants are insoluble in water, brake fluid, acids and alkalis. They also have low volatility and high dielectric strength. These lubricating pastes are produced by the following brands: Molykote, Permatex, SLIPKOTE.

Domestic manufacturers in this segment have distinguished themselves with MS-1600 paste.

From the description it is clear that the optimal choice is lubricating pastes of the third group, because it is not for nothing that many machine manufacturers recommend them.

Review of lubricants for brake mechanisms

This short review is dedicated to lubricants for servicing brake mechanisms. There are a huge number of questions on this topic - where to use what lubricant. Let's look at some of them.

Conventionally, these lubricants can be divided into three groups:

1. Lubricants for non-working surfaces of brake mechanisms (including anti-squeak) 2. Lubricant for guide pins 3. Lubricant for brake pistons (for assembly)

Lubricant for non-working surfaces of brake pads, as well as brake frames (anti-creaking lubricant)

These are mainly mineral-based lubricants with a bentonite thickener. Bosch Superfit lubricant , or its analogue VMPauto SUPERF , also very similar to them Permatex Ultra Disk (despite the fact that it is written on the bottle that it is synthetic, according to its characteristics it is a mineral lubricant with a bentonite thickener)

These lubricants also include LIQUI MOLY blue 7585 and red 7656

What is the advantage of lubricants of this group in relation to the same lithol, or graphite lubricant? These are high-temperature lubricants, they resist moisture very well, i.e. very resistant to washing out, does not interact with dirt (do not mix), they have a high temperature characteristics.

In addition to mineral-based sleds, there is also an interesting lubricant from the German company Febi Bilstein No. 26711 based on polyalphaolefins with a powder filler. Withstands temperatures up to 1400 C.

It is worth emphasizing that it is impossible to lubricate the fingers of brake mechanisms with lubricants for non-working surfaces, because they actively interact with rubber elements, which leads to their swelling and jamming of the finger.

This category of lubricants also includes sprays - aluminum and copper. Such lubricants do not have any fundamental functional difference. Their main difference is ease of application. Produced by a large number of different companies.

Lubricant for guide pins

The main difference between this lubricant is its neutrality towards rubber, because The guide pins have a rubber boot, and there are also rubber and plastic bushings. Plus there must be a good operating temperature range. Also, such a lubricant should not coke and should not be afraid of moisture. Since the requirements are quite high, the choice of these lubricants is not very wide. These are mainly synthetic lubricants based on polyalkylene glycol with lithium filler.

Toyota Rubber Grease is a lithium-filled polyalkylene glycol grease.

TRW PFG110 lubricant is similar to it , but unlike Toyota, due to the use of a lithium complex thickener, this lubricant has a higher drop point, although this difference is not very large, so it is indistinguishable during operation.

Silicone grease MC 1630 with the addition of silicon dioxide. The peculiarity of this lubricant is the improved performance of the metal-plastic friction pair. Well suited for those mechanisms where plastic bushings are used.

A similar lubricant from VMPauto called PAG

Universal grease for this group is MS 1600 . It can be applied to the piston of the brake cylinder, to the guide pins of the calipers, as well as to the non-working surfaces of the pads and the brake frame. But this lubricant also has negative reviews: excessive application on the fingers leads to coking. Therefore, you need to be extremely careful and apply it in a thin layer, then there will be no problems. To replace brake pads, it is not necessary to buy a large tube; it is enough to buy a small bag, it will be enough to service the entire car.

Lubricant for brake pistons (when assembling the brake mechanism)

Used when installing a piston into a cylinder. Such lubricants include, for example, ATE Bremszylinder based on castor oils; it has a low dropping point and does not have high performance at sub-zero temperatures, i.e.
This is a lubricant exclusively for installation work, to facilitate assembly. It will be useful to those who service and repair brake mechanisms. Compatible with DOT 3 brake fluids; DOT 4 and DOT 5.1. Neutral to rubber seals.

What and where to lubricate

When replacing or servicing a brake caliper, you need to understand which of its elements requires lubrication, and how to do it correctly:

If a squeak occurs, the anti-squeak plates are processed; they need to be lubricated on both sides, avoiding the part facing the piston of the working cylinder.

Also, the pad pressure springs should not be forgotten. And the pads themselves can be lubricated on all sides, excluding the friction layer.

To ensure free movement of the piston in the cylinder, its entire surface is treated with an appropriate lubricating paste. But without fanaticism, so that excess lubricant does not protrude from the piston boot.

We also carefully coat the caliper guides. So that they can move freely. It is also important not to overdo it here. To prevent lubricant from the guides from getting onto the friction layer of the pads.

All machine parts operating with a significant coefficient of friction, at high temperatures and in an aggressive environment, without the use of lubricants, will not work for a long time. This postulate largely applies to the work of the caliper. So, lubricate this disc brake element correctly and with the appropriate lubricant. This will save your nerves and help avoid many unpleasant moments.

In brake mechanisms, it is permissible to use only lubricants that meet the strict requirements of the car manufacturer. This is due to the fact that the composition is subjected to high thermal load and exposure to salts, water and brake fluid. In this case, lubricants should not react with plastic parts and elastomer seals.

What are the differences?

Actually, there are now two types:

For caliper guides and pistons . This composition is needed EXACTLY for lubrication, so that the “guides” and other moving elements do not jam. It is applied under the anthers, protects not only metal parts, but also rubber elements from moisture and overheating, repels salt and sand, etc. That is, it is simply an improved lubricant.

To remove squeaking brakes . It is also called EXACTLY for the brake pads themselves, it is applied ONLY to them, and in no way should it end up on the moving parts of the brake system. Because its purpose is not to lubricate, but to combat temperature and squeaks. After a while it just hardens, and if you apply it to moving parts, they will almost jam. THIS IS WORTH UNDERSTANDING!

This is the global difference between these two compositions - THEY ARE NOT THE SAME! Therefore, if a neighbor gives you a bag without identification marks (it was left with him when it was replaced), you should not immediately apply it headlong into the wrong place. First you need to understand what it is designed for. Also, in the store you need to take it exactly for the task that you are solving right now, if you want to remove squeaks and apply it to anti-squeak plates - this is one thing, if in order for the piston and guides to work well, this is another.

I also want to note that it can be packaged both in large tubes and in small bags, literally for one time.

What is brake lubricant used for?

The results of applying brake lubricant depend on the area where it is applied. Coating the guides in the wells of the caliper brackets leads to increased smoothness, reduced wear, and a reduced risk of jamming and scuffing.

There are means to help eliminate high-frequency squeaks. They help reduce extraneous noise during braking. Anti-squeak pastes also protect against corrosion.

To facilitate disassembly, anti-stick compounds are used. They have a copper or nickel base and have anti-creaking properties.

Lubricating the seating surfaces makes caliper assembly easier. At the same time, the use of special means to simplify the installation of pistons in cylinders helps reduce the risk of corrosion.

When lubrication is not effective and replacement is required

Sometimes owners try to “cure” the knocking noise of worn guides with lubricant, but if the wear on them is high and the caliper is literally hanging on its fingers, the paste will not help - only repairs. By the way, on some cars, parts of the brake system begin to make themselves known by knocking during the warranty period. For example, a similar thing was noted in the case of Chevrolet models, in which the problem manifested itself at runs of up to 30 thousand kilometers and was associated with a “disease” of the guides.

If the “fingers” are worn out, it is recommended to purchase a repair kit that includes guides, boots and fasteners. The main thing is not to get into parts that are defective or made from low quality material. Unfortunately, this happens. Caliper rattling is also possible when the guide seats are worn out. This can be treated by installing special rubber bands on the pins.

Lubricant requirements

The lubricant must meet the following requirements:

do not freeze at low ambient temperatures;
be inert towards water and brake fluid;
have a high operating temperature (150-180°C);
do not enter into a chemical reaction with parts of the brake mechanism, do not cause deformation of the anthers;
the dropping temperature should be absent or be as high as possible;
exhibit chemical resistance to aggressive substances;
do not leak or melt throughout the entire service life;
have anti-corrosion properties;
do not allow contacting surfaces to stick;
do not wash for a long time.

Many brake mechanisms use rubber, which is based on a copolymer of ethylene, propylene and diene monomer. Rubber is highly sensitive to lubricant quality.

When choosing a composition, you should focus on the recommendations of the car manufacturer.

What to lubricate when replacing brake pads

When replacing the front or rear brake pads, you need to apply lubricant to the caliper guides. This will protect them from souring, deformation, corrosion, and also reduce mechanical wear. If the vehicle has an ATE brake system with open guides, the use of special agents is strictly prohibited.

To reduce high-frequency sound, you need to apply a thin layer of paste between the plate and the non-working side of the pad. It is recommended to coat the ends of the consumables with a special agent. This prevents the pad from rubbing against the caliper. It is prohibited to use block lubricant for the guides - the rubber boots will swell. The tightness will be lost, moisture will get inside, and the corrosion process will begin.

When replacing brake pads, lubricant is also applied to the plates holding them. It reduces the volume of extraneous sounds and protects against rust. It is worth applying the paste not only to the staples, but also to the seats.

For reliable operation of disc brakes, it is recommended to lubricate the piston. This will allow it to move freely inside the cylinder. It is important that the composition does not react with the brake fluid. The effect of thermal fluid on lubrication is discussed in more detail in the video:

It is not necessary to remove the piston to apply the product. There is a high risk of cuff rupture, so when servicing the unit, it is important to balance the risk of damage to the boot and the need to change the lubricant on the piston. If you lack the necessary skills, it is better to contact a car service.

Treat fastening joints with special means. Then it will be easier to disassemble the mechanism. To prevent spontaneous unscrewing or damage to the thread, it is necessary to control the tightening torque using a torque wrench.

If replacing the pads involves installing a new disc, the surface underneath should be coated with an anti-stick agent. Copper grease in aerosol cans is suitable. The spray torch must be directed carefully so that the liquid does not fall on rubber or plastic surfaces.

Why do brake pads squeak and how to fix it?

Similar articles

ADVICS company: seminar notes on braking systems, part one
What types of brake pads are there?
Why does the engine whistle and how to find the cause of the whistle

This is the third part of the ADVICS seminar summary.

The third part of the seminar was devoted to the most common customer complaints when choosing pads. The main complaint of all car owners who want to change new pads from any company is squeaks and extraneous noises when using them. Mr. Higuchi focused on them and the measures to eliminate them. Why do brake pads squeak ?

Creaks and noises are similar in origin to a stereo system. The source of sound is vibrations and vibrations of the pad and disc. Then the sound is amplified due to the resonance from the levers and goes back to the disk even louder. This whole orchestra spoils the nerves of everyone - both those in the car and those on the street.

In the days of asbestos pads, there were no such problems, because asbestos took any form, with virtually no loss of braking properties. But times have changed, and now pad manufacturers are wondering how to get rid of squeaks in the brake system using a ferodo compound (braking material). As we discussed above, the stiffer the material, the higher the quality of braking, and the stronger the vibration in the caliper.

What to do to get rid of squeaks? In fact, everything is simple - for starters, you can use the most reliable combination against squeaking - anti-squeak plates (or tires, as Mr. Higuchi called them) plus lubricant.

Anti-squeak plates are metal, very wear-resistant plates that fit onto the back wall of the block. And how do they work, you ask? And it's very simple. Often, cheap pads are distinguished not only by poor ferodo, but also by the “curvature” of the rear wall, which should be adjacent to the piston. The gap there is precisely what causes the creaking! Anti-creaking plates remove this void, as a result of which the creaking disappears.

Why lubricant then, you ask? And the lubricant in this scheme (you won’t believe it!) is to remove the gap between the plate and the wall of the block, or the plate and the plate (if there are two of them for one block (such a scheme is often found)). A special lubricant with graphite (in fact, its composition is a big secret among every pad manufacturer) perfectly fills all cavities, significantly reducing the possibility of pad vibration, and, as a result, squeaking. Pay special attention to the bulges found on each anti-squeak plate - they should be coated especially carefully.

Also, Mr. Higuchi recommended applying lubricant before installation to the corners of the pad (those places that are fixed in the caliper by springs), as well as to the caliper guides and to the edges of the piston.

Pad manufacturers also have other ways to combat squeaking. For example, rounding the corners of the pads, or filing. If this was not done in the factory, and the block creaks, Mr. Higuchi revealed the secret of how to do this at home (garage). We warn you right away that carrying out such operations will require a lot of time, a lot of effort and the ability to hold the tool correctly in your hands. An inexperienced user will likely only make the situation worse.

What is “rounding the corners of the pads” and how to do it.

It's no secret that pads stop a rotating brake disc by simply compressing (grasping) it on both sides. During this operation, the side of the pad that “receives” the rotation of the disc is subject to special vibration if it is perpendicular to the disc itself. The task is to make this side “gradually accepting”. This task is completely solvable. It is enough to grind down the corner parts of the pads a little. Mr. Higuchi recommended the following sequence of operation: 5 mm is measured on each side and this angle is ground evenly on one and the other side of the block.

After this, the pad is put back on the disc and the effect is checked. If this does not help, you can step back another 5 mm on each side and make a gentler slope, after which be sure to install the pads and check. This procedure is performed in two steps only. For those for whom it did not help, there is another method that can be used first.

Applying slits or notches to reduce the vibration area. It sounds scary, but in reality everything is very simple.

So, we have an area of the pad that, when it comes into contact with the disc, begins to vibrate. The second method is not to eliminate vibration as such, but to increase its frequency until it is inaudible to the human ear. This can be achieved very simply - you just need to reduce the area of the braking material by “breaking” the solid ferrodo into conventional 2-3 segments. And this, in turn, is also done simply - by sawing. The cuts are made exactly in the middle of the block, or, if the area of the block is large, you can make cuts in two places, dividing the ferodo block area into three equal parts.

The actual cut is carried out according to the following rules: the width of the cut is 2-2.5 mm, the depth is 4 mm. These parameters are valid ONLY for new pads. After the operation, it is imperative to install the pads in the caliper and check them for squeaking.

However, squeaking does not always occur because of the pads. For example, the cause may be a wedging caliper piston, which, due to misalignment, can cause vibration of the pad.

Often, the cause of a squeak can also be a brake disc if it is bent and “beats” in the caliper. The reason for this disk behavior may be:

Uneven disc wear
A wheel bearing leaving this world.
Curvature of the brake disc due to overheating.

Even the very best pads in combination with a “crooked” brake disc will howl like Mexican coyotes, and it’s difficult to somehow get rid of this other than by replacing the discs, bearings, or, if possible, regrooving the discs.

Another fact that should be taken into account is that semi-metallic pads (which include most pads produced for the assembly line, as well as “original” pads in the original service packaging) “eat up” the disc much more intensely than pads with a low steel content. “Non-metallic” (“non-steel”) pads are the most gentle on the disc.

Hondavodam.ru

If you find an error, please select a piece of text and press Ctrl+Enter.
More interesting articles

How to lubricate the caliper

Caliper products are made primarily on a copper or ceramic base. The composition may include mineral, semi-synthetic and synthetic oils.

Molykote Cu-7439 Plus

Molykote Cu-7439 Plus is made from fine copper powder. The paste can be used with calipers from auto giants Land Rover, Honda, Subaru, Nissan. Molykote Cu-7439 has many advantages - the video explains them:

MS-1600

MS-1600 is the best domestic paste. It has a wide operating temperature range - from -50°C to 1000°C. MS-1600 does not react chemically with fuel oils DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5.1. Interoperates with DOT 5.0.

XADO VeryLube

XADO VeryLube is a green spray with item number XB40019. It must be applied in layers. Each layer should be maintained until it is completely dry. A standard 320 ml capacity is enough to treat all calipers on the car.

SLIPKOTE 220-R DBC

The best anti-wear and antioxidant properties are found in a product based on synthetic purified oil - SLIPKOTE 220-R DBC. Used with brake mechanisms of many new cars. In retail, SLIPKOTE 220-R DBC can be found in Toyota packaging with article number 0888780609.

The best lubricants for calipers and guides

Choosing a truly good lubricant in all its variety is not an easy task. It is necessary to arm yourself with a whole store of knowledge. It is necessary to take into account the general technical parameters and individual characteristics of a separately selected brand of emulsion. Using reviews from ordinary customers and car service professionals, we have compiled the top most popular and high-quality lubricants for calipers.

Another high-quality lubricant is Molykote CU-7439. Marked as the best lubricant for guide calipers. Belongs to the category of semi-synthetic. Molykote does not lose performance characteristics in the temperature range from -30 to +600°C. It is characterized by high resistance to pressure, minimal evaporation and excellent anti-corrosion characteristics. An indicator of the quality of this lubricant is the fact that it is marked with access to use by many automakers. The price for a hundred-gram package is approximately 700 rubles.
XADO VeryLube spray spray rightfully takes its place in the ranking due to its excellent price/quality ratio. Among the outstanding characteristics of this lubricant, it is worth highlighting its favorability towards rubber seals, a sufficient range of operating temperatures during normal operation of the car, and high-quality extreme pressure and lubricating properties. The volume of the cylinder is 320 g. at a cost of just over three hundred rubles.
Slipkote 220-R DBC silicone paste is a universal lubricant for the working parts of the brake system. Buyers note that this caliper lubricant is one of the best in the segment. And not for nothing. It is distinguished by anti-wear, anti-corrosion and antioxidant properties of decent quality. The disadvantages include a high price tag (about 1000 rubles), low distribution in the domestic market and the possibility of use only with disc brakes.

If we talk about lubricants designed to protect components operating in harsh conditions, then it is worth mentioning the paste from Permatex. The paste does not affect rubber elements and eliminates the possibility of squeaking and jamming. According to numerous consumer reviews, Permatex is superior to its competitors in terms of performance parameters. Temperature range: from -40 to +200°C. Like the model above, it is very expensive. For 5 gr. You will have to pay about 100 rubles for such a paste.
Experienced car owners are probably wondering where the Liqui Moly paste is. Very controversial product according to reviews. While some say it is excellent quality, others say it is not suitable for lubricating brake systems. And they are right. The manufacturer classifies its paste as an anti-squeak, which means its use in this matter is inadmissible.

How to apply correctly

Cover the guides with a thin layer. A small amount of the substance must be placed in the well on the bracket. After assembly, you should check the rubber boot.

Before installing the pads, you need to apply paste between the anti-squeak plate and the non-working side. For uniform distribution, it is recommended to draw several strips, which will then be flattened under pressure.

The reliability of the machine’s braking system depends on the choice of lubricant and the method of its application. Therefore, you need to carefully choose the product and not use unsuitable lubricants - even if they are much cheaper.

October 26, 2017

Many experienced drivers and car service workers do not know that when replacing brake pads it is necessary to lubricate the caliper guides and other elements. Not to mention beginners who have little understanding of the car’s design. These units are often used for 10 years with old lubricant, which leads to rapid wear of parts, jamming of pistons and failure of mechanisms. Car enthusiasts who independently care for their own cars need to be able to maintain disc brakes and choose suitable lubricants.

Why and when to lubricate the brake caliper

“Every brake caliper mechanism” sounds a bit strange to many. In reality, the caliper is a complex assembly from a technical point of view, in which every detail requires special attention. If we mean the classic floating caliper disc brake caliper, this is what we get.

Brake pads, caliper is noisy

The creaking and squealing of brake pads is probably familiar to everyone. 90% of the noise from brake pads does not come from the plane of direct contact with the brake disc. And the noise depends on the anti-creaking mechanism (!), the back side of the pad, and the general condition of the caliper.

And, of course, on the quality and composition of the friction lining. We talked about this in more detail . In addition, critical wear of the brake pads does not mean that the linings are worn down to zero. In most cases, a 3-4 mm thickness of the linings (and even more so uneven) screams that the caliper requires maintenance.

Anti-squeak plates

An excellent invention by Bosch engineers, but it requires maintenance. By using the wrong lubricants on the anti-squeak mechanism, we only make the problem worse. Every time we replace the brake pads, we spend a few minutes of our precious attention, and the pads no longer squeak. But it is important to know what to lubricate them with.

Caliper guides

This formulation applies exclusively to classic-type brake calipers, used in the vast majority of budget (and not so budget) cars. The simplest spare part that controls the behavior of the entire brake mechanism. She doesn't care about all the electronics. If the caliper guide is in poor condition, expect problems.

It is important to keep in mind that caliper guides are not such an expensive part to restore (there are examples where they are simply riveted with a hammer). It is safer to pay exorbitant prices, but be sure that the brakes will be in order.

Guide boot

The condition of the caliper guides directly depends on the viability of the rubber boot. It is this that protects the guides from water, sand, and dirt. Any crack on the boot is a blow to the health of the caliper guides.

Interesting on the topic: Choosing antifreeze, part 3. Alchemy lessons: classification and composition of coolant

A little advice. If we are buying a repair kit for a caliper, it is extremely important to take a closer look at the quality of the boots. Even famous brands sometimes slip outright crap into repair kits. Good anthers will be elastic and look neat, as in the photo below.

Piston of the working brake cylinder

From time to time you watch popular videos on video hosting sites and your hair stands on end. The masters, as if with experience, put almost lithol or silicone grease into the pistons of the brake cylinders.

The problem is this. Corrosion eats away at the piston of the working cylinder due to the fact that the driver did not replace the brake fluid in time. But he doesn't know about it. He thinks that the piston is made of stainless steel and will withstand anything in the world.

No. The brake cylinder pistons are made of hardened steel and chrome plated.

When the chrome wears off, lousy brake fluid (any brake fluid absorbs moisture at an alarming rate) gets to the piston body. And this is where special lubricants are needed. At a minimum, to protect the brakes from seizing the pistons.

Let's draw our first conclusions

Lubrication in the caliper is important not so much for optimizing the operation of the mechanism, but for prevention.
The brake caliper must be lubricated every time the brake pads are replaced. Most officials and private masters know about this. But they don't.
Each part of the brake caliper needs its own lubricant. There are no universal ones, with rare exceptions.
By ignoring brake caliper lubrication, we endanger both ourselves and our passengers.

Any little thing that concerns the brake mechanism is not a small thing.

Why lubricate brakes?

Of course, you should not apply oil to the working surfaces of the pads; they will begin to slip and braking efficiency will drop sharply. Disk-type units have moving parts that operate according to the following algorithm:

When you press the pedal, fluid pressure moves the piston inside the caliper forward.
The piston presses on the nearest brake pad and forces the caliper to move along the guides in the opposite direction.
As a result, both pads grip the disc on the sides and slow down the rotation.

There are designs with 2 pistons that compress the pads on both sides, and fixed calipers.

Since the caliper moves along guide elements (resembling long bolts with a short threaded part), they need to be lubricated periodically. The operation is carried out together with the replacement of the pads: the old grease for the calipers is removed and a new one is added. Point two: a protective antifriction compound is applied to the cylinder walls and the inner surface of the boot, which protects against dirt and scuffing.

To prevent the brakes from squeaking, the non-working part of the pad and the contact points with the caliper are treated with a special paste.

If the listed measures are ignored, the guides will rust over time from moisture and at one far from perfect moment they may jam. Braking efficiency as a whole will drop by a quarter, provided that the mechanisms of the remaining wheels remain in good working order.

Lubricant requirements

Disc brake units operate in the most difficult conditions. Along with the ubiquitous dust, dirt and water of varying degrees of aggressiveness get inside the mechanism. In summer it is relatively clean, and in winter it is a solution of salt and active reagents scattered by city utilities. Add to this the high temperature that occurs during strong friction of the linings on the disc as a result of braking.

Reference. When driving in normal mode, the temperature inside the pad-disc pair rarely reaches 200 °C. In conditions of mountain roads and serpentines, these parts are heated to a maximum temperature of 400–500 °C. Heat is transferred to other metal elements, which is why the mechanisms can heat up to 150 °C.

To lubricate the brake caliper guides, you must use a special compound that meets the following requirements:

the material must retain lubricating properties when heated to 180 °C or more;
It is unacceptable for the composition to be washed off with water, solutions of acids and alkalis, as well as brake fluid;
the lubricant should not melt and flow out of the working pair of parts as a result of heating;
Compatibility with all types of elastic seals (rubber, plastic, EPDM, EPT) is required.

Initially, any lubricant is made liquid, after which a thickener is introduced into it. To service highly loaded brake units, a special additive is manufactured - after its addition, the lubricant does not have a melting point. That is, it does not liquefy at high temperatures.

Hence the conclusion: “Litol”, “Nigrol”, “Solidol” and other traditional materials will not be used for processing brake parts.

They melt when heated to 65–100 °C and are aggressive towards rubber and other rubber seals. You need a special lubricant for guide supports that is resistant to high temperatures and chemical influences.

Anti-seize pastes

These compositions belong to the first group of materials used in automobile disc brake units. They are high-temperature pastes designed for processing the back of pads, metal brackets and plates. The main task of such materials is to prevent squeaks during brake operation, hence the English name Anti-Seize.

The basis for the production of pastes is mineral and semi-synthetic oil, to which an artificial thickener is added. Some manufacturers mix this component with microparticles of metals and their chemical compounds. When the mechanism overheats, the performance of the material is preserved precisely thanks to these tiny powders.

Reference. The maximum operating temperature that the high-temperature grease can withstand without loss of properties is 1400 °C.

The following anti-seize compositions of imported origin can easily be found on sale:

complex action compositions: Loctite 8060/8150/8151 and Wurth AL 1100;
materials containing copper and aluminum powder (approximately 25% of the total mass): LIQUI MOLY Kupfer-Paste, Mannol Kupfer-Paste, Molykote Cu-7439 Plus Paste and Wurth SU 800;
compositions where instead of powdered metal microparticles of ceramics or magnesium silicate are used: HUSKEY 400 Anti-Seize, LIQUI MOLY Bremsen-Anti-Quietsch-Paste;
product with the addition of molybdenum disulfide particles HUSKEY Moly Paste.

The list does not contain the names of well-known brands - manufacturers of motor and transmission oils. The production of such specific products is carried out by individual companies located outside the post-Soviet countries.

Molybdenum and copper grease in the form of a paste is used strictly for its intended purpose. It is unacceptable to apply the composition to the caliper guides - the material dries quickly and jams the working pair.

Selection of brake pads. Reviews. Recommendations.

The editors were prompted to write this article by incorrect and often false recommendations on the use of lubricants in disc brakes that have recently appeared in automotive and online publications, as well as on forums, which, unfortunately, can lead to tragedy on the road. A situation arises when many listen to the advice of various kinds of “experts” who recommend using standard lubricants such as nigrol, Litol-24 or “graphite” (graphite grease based on solid oil, operable up to +65 ° C) to lubricate the caliper. Let us say right away that this is absolutely forbidden!

We will tell you what to use in this material.

It's no secret that the disc brake caliper of a modern car is a rather complex and important unit, made of high-tech materials, on which traffic safety and, ultimately, people's lives depend.

Disc brakes operate under severe conditions of high temperatures. The temperature in the disc-pad friction pair can reach 500 °C and even 600 °C, and on the surface of other parts of the caliper due to heat removal and dissipation - up to 150 °C and higher. In real road conditions, such temperatures are quite difficult to achieve, but in conditions of aggressive driving or driving along mountain serpentine roads, such values are quite realistic. In addition, caliper parts are exposed to water and salts from the road surface, as well as brake fluid from the brake system. Such extra-heavy operating conditions of the caliper require the use of special lubricants designed for extreme operating conditions. Under such operating conditions, ordinary common lubricants coke, are washed out with water, dissolved by brake fluid and often have a detrimental effect on the elastomeric and plastic parts of the caliper, which can lead to failure of the brake system while driving.

Requirements for caliper lubricants If we speak scientifically, then, based on such operating conditions, we can formulate the basic requirements for disc brake caliper lubrication: 1) the lubricant must be high-temperature, with an operating temperature of up to +180 ° C and above; 2) it is desirable that the lubricant does not have a drop point, i.e. did not melt or leak from the assembly at high temperatures; 3) the lubricant must be insoluble in water and brake fluid, i.e. water and chemical resistant; 4) The lubricant must be compatible with plastic parts and elastomeric caliper seals, especially ethylene propylene diene monomer (EPDM) and ethylene propylene terpolymer (EPT) rubbers commonly used in disc brake calipers.

To be fair, we note that such lubricants are not produced by well-known main manufacturers of oils and lubricants, and if they are present in their range, they are produced by specialized manufacturers of special lubricants under the trademarks of the main manufacturers of oils and lubricants. It is also a very common option to produce caliper lubricants under the brand names of brake system manufacturers and automobile manufacturers. The main manufacturers of special lubricants - suppliers to car assembly plants and manufacturers of automotive components abroad - are the following companies: • Dow Corning Corp. , trademark Molykote; • Kluber Lubricarion Munchen KG , trademark of Kluber; • HUSK-ITT Corp. (HUSKEY Specialty Lubricants) . It also includes SPECIALTY LUBRICANTS Corporation. Trademarks HUSKEY and SLIPKOTE.

Lubricants So, let's move directly to lubricants. Special disc brake caliper lubricants can be divided into three groups based on their use on caliper parts.

Group I. High temperature anti-seize pastes (Anti-Seize compounds). Used on calipers, back metal surfaces of brake pads and anti-squeak plates.

Group II. Lubricants for other caliper parts. Namely the edges of pistons, bolts, pins, bushings and elastomeric seals. Often referred to as Rubber Grease in vehicle operating instructions. Let us immediately note that ordinary silicone lubricants for rubber and plastic are NOT APPLICABLE for these parts for the reasons stated above!

III group. Universal caliper lubricants - for all moving parts of the caliper, incl. for plastic and elastomer.

In turn, group I is classified according to the composition of additives (fillers): • complex, with additives of copper, aluminum and graphite powders; • copper, with copper and graphite powders; • filled with molybdenum disulfide; • with non-metallic fillers (magnesium silicate, ceramics).

Let us briefly consider the operational and technical characteristics of special lubricants for disc brake calipers on the market. The review does not claim to be a complete study; it presents materials available to car owners and car repair shops.

Group I is represented on the market by the following foreign-made materials.

Complex pastes: • HUSKEY 2000 Lubricating Paste and Anti-Seize Compound for High Temperature; • Loctite #8060/8150/8151; • Wurth AL 1100.

Copper pastes: • HUSKEY 341 Copper Anti-Seize; • LIQUI MOLY Kupfer-Paste; • Loctite C5?A (#8007/8008/8065); • Mannol Kupfer-Paste Super-Hafteffekt; • Marly Cooper Compound; • Molykote Cu-7439 Plus Paste; • Motip Koperspray; • Permatex Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant; • Pingo Kupfer-Paste; • Valvoline Cooper Spray. • Wurth SU 800.

Pastes with molybdenum disulfide: • HUSKEY Moly Paste. Assembly Lubricant & Anti-Seize Compound; • Loctite #8012/8154/8155.

Metal-free pastes: • HUSKEY 400 Anti-Seize; • TEXTAR Cera Tec; • LIQUI MOLY Bremsen-Anti-Quietsch-Paste.

Anti-seize pastes (Anti-Seize compounds) are high-temperature (up to +1400 ° C) lubricating compositions on mineral, partially synthetic or synthetic base oils, usually with synthetic thickeners, homogenized with submicron particles of solid lubricants and/or particles of some metals - up to 25–30% mass fraction. At ultra-high temperatures, these micropowders act as lubricants.

These extreme pressure pastes are a rather interesting class of special lubricants. In a car, they are used not only in disc brake calipers, but also in many other components. Application in other components of the car depends on the composition of the paste, and this is a separate conversation, to which we will devote a separate article.

Group II is represented on the market by the following materials: • Loctite Teroson Plastilube - mineral oil lubricant, bentonite (clay) thickener. The color is brownish. There is no drop point. Operating temperature range from minus 45° to plus 180°C. • ATE plastilube. The same Teroson Plastilube lubricant under the brand name of the brake system manufacturer Continental Teves AG & Co. oHG.

Both lubricants are manufactured in Germany.

Group III is represented on the market by the following materials: • Molykote AS-880N Grease; • Permatex Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube; • SLIPKOTE 220-R Silicone Disc Brake Caliper Grease and Noise Suppressor; • SLIPKOTE 927 Disc Brake Caliper Grease. • SLIPKOTE 220-R Silicone Disc Brake Caliper Grease and Noise Suppressor - silicone, fully synthetic lubricant. Color transparent white. There is no drop point. Operating temperature range from minus 46° to plus 288°C. This special lubricant is used to lubricate the calipers of not only cars, but also trucks and buses. • SLIPKOTE 927 Disc Brake Caliper Grease - synthetic oil and synthetic thickener lubricant. Contains submicron particles of molybdenum disulfide, polytetrafluoroethylene and graphite. Color grey. There is no drop point. Operating temperature range from minus 30° to plus 1100°C. • Permatex Ultra Disk Brake Caliper Lube - 100% synthetic lubricant, but not silicone oil based. Green color. There is no drop point. Operating temperature range from minus 40° to plus 204°C. • Molykote AS-880N Grease - silicone oil grease, silica gel thickener, contains solid lubricant additives. Black color. Dropping temperature +260 °C. Operating temperature range from minus 40° to plus 204°C. Produced by the manufacturer in 20 kg buckets. Can be purchased at retail by pre-ordering through some auto parts stores under the car manufacturer's brand. For example, “Subaru-Outback” part No. 26298AC000 (discontinued), new catalog number K0777-YA010. All four lubricants are made in the USA.

But what do the manufacturers of disc brake calipers themselves recommend for their products? Global OEM manufacturers of automobile and motorcycle brake systems, such as TRW Automotive, Cardone, Remsa America, Delphi and others, recommend the use of silicone, high-temperature lubricants for servicing disc brake calipers. And from this review, the conclusion suggests itself that the optimal choice for the average car owner are special group III lubricants , because due to their high-temperature properties they are applicable on calipers, reverse metal surfaces of brake pads, anti-squeak plates, pistons, bolts, pins, bushings and elastomeric seals, those. on all lubricated parts of the disc brake caliper.

Konstantin GUNIN

Magazine "Consumer" - "Avtodela"

How to properly lubricate brake calipers and guides when replacing brake pads

Check the dust cap (1) for damage and replace it if necessary. Clean the contact surface (2) of the brake cylinder piston and lubricate it with a thin layer of paste to prevent squealing of the brake parts. Warning! The anti-dust cuff should not touch the paste that prevents squealing of the brake parts, because the anti-dust cuff may swell under its influence.

Clean the contact surfaces (1 and 2) of the T-shaped ends of the brake pads/caliper housing and lubricate them with anti-squeal paste. Note: Lubricate the contact surfaces at the top and bottom of the caliper.

Clean the contact surface (3) of the disc brake caliper and lubricate it with a thin layer of paste to prevent squealing of the brake parts.

Clean the caliper bracket in the area of the T-shaped guides and lubricate it with a thin layer of paste to prevent squealing of the brake parts.

Compositions for treating caliper elements

The scope of application of materials of the second group is static parts of brake mechanisms. This includes bolts of threaded connections, rubber and plastic covers, rods and various bushings. They are made on mineral bases and are not subject to melting (English designation - Rubber Grease). The temperature range in which the lubricant works without problems is from minus 40 to +180 ° C.

Important point! Lubricants of this group are not intended for application to moving parts - guides and cylinders. It is allowed to process the end part of the piston pressing on the block.

The products on the market are represented by the following brands;

ATE Plastilube (Germany);
composition Loctite Teroson Plastilube with a thickener based on natural clay;
Teroson Plastilube from the famous German manufacturer Continental Teves, specializing in brake units.

Application of the listed lubricants creates the effect of surface preservation. Simply put, a few years after processing, the threaded connections unwind and the assembly is easily disassembled. Conventional silicone grease is not suitable for car calipers - the operating temperature is too high.

Universal lubricants

The purpose of the third group of materials is clear from the name - any moving and stationary elements, including caliper guides. The compositions are equally successfully used to protect plastic and rubber boots, since they are inactive towards rubber.

The compositions are made on the basis of silicone, but various additives give them the required properties - the absence of a melting threshold, resistance to high temperatures (up to 290 ° C) and chemically aggressive substances. Some manufacturers add molybdenum disulfide or the smallest fraction of graphite to the lubricant.

The best all-purpose brake caliper lubricant is made in the United States and sold under the following names:

Molykote AS-880N Grease;
SLIPKOTE 220 and 927;
Permatex Brake Caliper Lube.

The colors of the compositions are quite varied. Molykote is black, SLIPKOTE is pure white and Permatex is green. The consistency is approximately the same - semi-liquid, packaging - tubes or buckets.

It remains to discuss the question of which lubricant is better for the guide calipers of a particular car. The best way to determine the appropriate option is to look at the machine’s operating instructions and study the section on recommended lubricants. If you can find the necessary information in the technical data sheet or on the car manufacturer’s website, you definitely won’t go wrong with your choice.

If the information on the lubricants used may be incomplete, you will have to select the product yourself. The best option is to purchase one of the universal lubricants of the third group and kill several birds with one stone:

Buying a separate composition for each element is too expensive and inconvenient, but a universal silicone composition fits everywhere.
The paste tubes are large enough in volume, so one package will last until the end of the shelf life.
Neutral silicone grease will extend the life of frequently changed elements - rubber boots and seals installed in the brake cylinders.

A universal lubricant will successfully work for the entire period until the next pad replacement if you completely remove the old lubricant and clean the surfaces before application. Cracked anthers should be replaced with new ones.

When you service or change brake calipers, you need to lubricate their contacting and rubbing surfaces: guides (pins), working cylinder piston, clamping brackets. You can read about this in the manual of any car. And purely logically, this is understandable to any car enthusiast. But if you do this incorrectly or use lubricants that are unsuitable for these purposes, then you can only cause harm by rendering the components of the caliper unusable.

In order to understand how to properly lubricate all elements of the caliper, as well as how to do this, you need to understand the following questions:

Under what conditions does the caliper operate?
What requirements must the lubricant chosen for it meet?

Tips for choosing

Buying a separate composition for each element is too expensive and inconvenient, but a universal silicone composition fits everywhere.
The paste tubes are large enough in volume, so one package will last until the end of the shelf life.
Neutral silicone grease will extend the life of frequently changed elements - rubber boots and seals installed in the brake cylinders.

terms of Use

Calipers operate under very difficult conditions, one of which, first of all, is high temperature. When driving on high mountain serpentines, aggressive driving style or during sudden and frequent braking, the temperature of the brake pad can reach 600°C.

Also, brake pads are affected by dirt, water, and reagents that are sprinkled on winter roads. And when the piston sealing rings wear out in the cylinder, brake fluid gets in. Therefore, for smooth and uninterrupted operation of these elements of the brake system, it is necessary to use appropriate special lubricants. You cannot lubricate them with graphite paste, nigrol, lithol, because these lubricants simply will not withstand such operating conditions.

Not only do these lubricants dissolve, wash out and coke, they can negatively affect the anthers. This can easily lead to jamming of the pistons of the working cylinders, guides (fingers), failure of the brake system and the most dire consequences.

What causes squealing brakes?

Modern brakes consist of metal brake discs that are sandwiched between two pads coated with a friction material. When the discs, caliper and brake pads are in perfect condition, the entire system works properly, and when you press the brakes hard, you will not hear an unpleasant squealing sound. Yes, when braking hard, you will hear a squeal from the brake system, but it will be more reminiscent of the sound of a properly tuned violin than of a non-professional bagpipe playing.

Just as for the normal sound of musical instruments, a tuner is needed, so for the normal tuning of the brake system, you need a professional auto mechanic who, in the event of a malfunction, will be able to adjust your braking system to optimal operation.

What kind of lubricant should be used for calipers?

To choose the right lubricant for pins (guides), pistons in caliper cylinders and other elements, you need to focus on the requirements described below:

The lubricant must be non-aggressive to rubber, elastomeric and plastic parts.
It must remain resistant to brake fluid, water and other aggressive substances that can dissolve and wash it away.
The lubricant must be high-temperature and withstand heat of 180°C or more. It should not melt under increased thermal loads and should not leak.
It must also be frost-resistant and not lose its properties at sub-zero temperatures, which can reach –35°C and below.

Therefore, do not listen to garage craftsmen who say that you can use lithol and other similar lubricants to lubricate the calipers. This can lead not only to breakdowns of this unit, but also to more serious losses, for example, in the event of an accident.

What types of silicone lubricants are there?

Based on their state of aggregation, the following types of silicone lubricants are distinguished.

Aerosols

Solvents are sometimes added to aerosol materials to reduce viscosity. In this case, at the time of application the material has good penetrating ability, and after the solvent evaporates it becomes thicker.

Aerosol lubricants are the most popular form of silicone lubricants. They are easy and convenient to apply. They do not require additional tools for application. Aerosol cans are constant attributes that about half of all car owners constantly carry with them.

However, this type of material also has disadvantages. When applied, they form a conical “torch”. As a result, the lubricant gets not only into the treated areas, but also into the adjacent areas. In addition, aerosol cans have a rather fragile design, so they must be protected from thermal and mechanical influences.

Liquids

Such materials are essentially pure silicone oil. Depending on the purpose of the product, they are manufactured with different viscosities.

They are produced in vials, vials, bottles, cans, canisters and larger containers. Sometimes bottles are equipped with special applicators, which, when used, are automatically saturated with the lubricant contained in the package. The lubricant is applied to the surface and rubbed with an applicator.

Another method of application is through an oil can. Many bottles have elastic packaging and are equipped with a thin, elongated spout that allows you to accurately dose the lubricant and apply it to hard-to-reach places.

Lubricants can also be applied in the standard way - using a brush or sponge.

What types of lubricants are there?

Caliper lubricants can be divided into several different types, each of which contains several lubricants that correspond in their characteristics to the operating conditions of various elements of the disc brake caliper.

Synthetic or mineral pastes with added metals

In the first group, it is worth considering high-temperature lubricating pastes with Anti-Seize properties. These lubricants contain a fully or semi-synthetic and mineral base. With the addition of synthetic thickeners, submicron particles of metals such as molybdenum or copper. Instead of metals, solid substances of lubricants can be used, which work successfully at super-temperature values. This group includes:

Complex lubricating paste products.
Metal-free pastes.
Lubricants containing copper or molybdenum disulfide.

They can be used to cover anti-squeak plates, pressure springs, and the back side of the pads.

These are pastes from such brands as Huskey, Loctite, Wurth, LIQUI MOLY, Textar, Mannol Kupfer, Valvoline Cooper, Motip Koperspray, Bosch SUPERFIT.

Mineral oil based pastes

Synthetic oil based pastes

The third group includes lubricating pastes intended for all moving elements of the disc brake caliper: piston in the cylinder, guides, etc. They are compatible with most rubber-based materials, elastomers and plastics. They are based on well-refined synthetic oils with the addition of a stable thickener and additives with wear-resistant, antioxidant and anti-corrosion properties.

Such lubricants do not dissolve in water, brake fluid, acids and alkalis; They evaporate poorly and also have high dielectric strength. These lubricants are produced by brands: Molykote, Permatex, SLIPKOTE

Domestic manufacturers in this segment have distinguished themselves with MS-1600

From the description it is clear that the optimal choice is lubricating pastes of the third group, because it is not for nothing that many machine manufacturers recommend them.

Lubricating calipers: how, with what and why?

This unpleasant and loud defect is known first-hand to many drivers, and it causes completely different reactions. Most often, the owner prefers “not to interfere with the car’s operation” - after all, this is the easiest way, and the “sound accompaniment” does not particularly affect the operation of the braking system itself. However, there are many meticulous motorists who fight sound in various ways - for example, by lubricating the guides and even modifying them.

The knocking noise occurs due to excessive clearance in the guide-bracket pair.

What to lubricate

It would seem that what could be simpler than lubricating the caliper guides? Many owners do this - during the next “overhaul” of the brake system, they take and lubricate their fingers with whatever comes to hand. As a rule, the garage assortment includes lithol and its derivatives, as well as graphite. More advanced people are puzzled by finding a specialized composition intended specifically for use in brake system components.

And now - surprise: in most cases, both of them do the wrong thing! Yes, the caliper guide pins do need to be lubricated, but not with what is usually considered a suitable lubricant, even if it is positioned as such in a car shop.

Car manufacturers produce guide lubricants under their own brands.

Here is a list of original OEM lubricants from some automakers, indicating catalog numbers:

BMW 81 22 9 407 103, 83 23 0 305 690;
FORD/Motorcraft D7AZ-19A331-A, XG-3-A;
Volkswagen/Audi G 052 150 A2;
LAND ROVER RTC7603, SYL500010;
HONDA 08C30-B0224M, 08798-9027;
MAZDA 0000-77-XG3A;
NISSAN 999MP-AB002;
SUZUKI 99000-25100;
TOYOTA 08887-80609;
CHRYSLER/Mopar J8993704;
Volvo 1161325-4.

There are also lubricants produced by companies producing auto components and chemicals under their own brands:

ACDelco 89021537 (10-4022);
Federal Mogul F132005;
FTE Automotive W0109;
Stahlgruber 223 1712, 223 1729;
TRW Automotive PFG110.

1 / 3

2 / 3

3 / 3

Such different lubricants

Unfortunately, in the vast majority of cases, car dealerships (both online and offline) will usually offer “the wrong thing” - that is, anti-creaking lubricant, which simply cannot be used in guides!

The fact is that copper and ceramic anti-squeak pastes are intended for application to the back side of the pads and mating elements of brake calipers, but they are not suitable for “guides” for several reasons. Firstly, after lubrication with grease, lithol, “graphite” and other lubricants based on mineral oils, the rubber boots on the fingers almost always swell, stop sticking to the fingers and, in fact, simply stop performing their function.

The manufacturer Bosch Superfit officially positions it as a lubricant for guides, while the copper lubricant Liqui Moly Kupfer Paste (right) is not suitable for this.

Secondly, only special greases based on synthetic oils and a thickener are suitable for lubricating the guides. Thanks to this, the lubricant becomes refractory and does not “drain” from the guides after heating, and also does not coke over time from exposure to water and high temperatures. High-quality specialized lubricants can easily hold up to +300C, but at the same time they are non-aggressive to seals. Moreover, such lubricants not only do not melt, but also do not dissolve in water, alkalis, dilute acids, brake fluid, as well as methanol and ethanol.

1 / 4

2 / 4

3 / 4

4 / 4

Using the wrong lubricant in practice can lead to the opposite effect - that is, the lubricated guide pins become sour in the caliper, which is why the floating bracket loses its mobility, and the pads begin to jam and overheat.

On thematic forums, hundreds of pages are devoted to choosing the “right” lubricant for guides, but the theoretical calculations and practical reviews given often contradict each other, which leads to even greater confusion.

One of the most common universal lubricants is the American Slipkote 220-R DBC, although its price is somewhat steep - about a thousand rubles are asked for an 85-gram tube! Slipkote lubricant can also be purchased in "single-use" 10-gram sachets, which are noticeably cheaper.

1 / 2

2 / 2

In car shops, under the guise of a suitable composition for guide pins, they often offer the fairly common lubricant Liqui Moly Bremsen Anti-Quietsch-Paste (art. 7573, 3077, 3079, 3074) of gray-blue color, but the manufacturer itself is currently positioning it as an anti-squeak paste and It is not recommended to use it for lubrication of guides and inserts into anthers. It contains a ceramic filler that is heat resistant up to 1200C, while the synthetic base can thermally degrade much earlier.

1 / 3

2 / 3

3 / 3

The product line of this German manufacturer includes a suitable Anti-Quietsch-Paste (art. 7656) in red color, which does not affect rubber and plastic elements, but can withstand heating up to +250C.

Believe your eyes: despite the inscription “anti-squeak”, the manufacturer recommends this lubricant specifically for guide pins!

Many lubricant manufacturers describe in detail and clearly what product is intended for what. The main thing is not to get confused and find the right lubricant on sale.

The repair manual for VAZ cars prescribed the use of waterproof grease UNIOL-1, made on the basis of petroleum oils, to lubricate the guides. As a rule, in our time it is almost impossible to find it on sale, but it is quite possible to find a substitute analogue - calcium grease CIATIM-221. It is produced in accordance with GOST 9433-80 and is intended for lubrication of various rolling bearings. There is also a fluorinated version CIATIM-221F, which, thanks to the use of ultrafine polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), provides improved extreme pressure and anti-wear qualities.

1 / 6

2 / 6

3 / 6

4 / 6

5 / 6

6 / 6

CIATIM-221 is inert to polymers and rubber, and also provides a temperature range from -60C to +150C, while withstanding short-term heating up to 200C, making it suitable for use on most “low-speed” cars such as front-wheel drive Ladas, but there are a few “buts” "

Firstly, the dropping point of CIATIM-221 according to GOST 6793-74 is about 200 degrees - that is, in many cases, with active use of brakes, it can melt and leak, so it can hardly replace “branded” foreign-made lubricants prescribed for applications on modern foreign cars.

Secondly, CIATIM-221 is very expensive and is usually found only in large containers, while literally a few grams are enough to lubricate the guides. This is why lubricant manufacturers usually sell them in small bags - but, as you already understood, it is important not to confuse the anti-squeak lubricant for brake system components with the “same” product for guides.

Lubricating the guides does not always solve the knocking problem - as a rule, when the caliper brackets wear out in the holes during driving, the parts still move, which leads to extraneous sounds.

Lubricate or replace?

For some cars, you can purchase caliper repair kits, which include boots, pins and fasteners. True, the guides are often made by someone unknown and from what - that is, from “raw” metal, and the geometric dimensions are not always maintained correctly. Some mechanics manage not to change fingers, but, without further ado, simply... rivet them with a hammer! After this, the guides can simply jam in the caliper...

Pay attention to the quality of the anthers purchased with your fingers. And questions arise for the guides themselves.

This is what the finger looks like after being “repaired” with a hammer.
Many car owners have encountered the fact that the calipers began to rattle during the warranty period. Contacting an official dealer often resulted in the replacement of complete units, since not all manufacturers produce individual brake caliper parts as spare parts. At the same time, for Russian VAZs and some foreign-made cars, both brackets, “palms”, and brake cylinders can be purchased separately, and factory-made!

1 / 3

2 / 3

3 / 3

In a word, in each specific case you need to “research the issue” before taking up a tube of lubricant and wrenches. After all, there is no single method for solving the problem of knocking brake calipers - sometimes it is enough just to lubricate the fingers, and there are situations when the problem can only be solved by replacing parts of the brake system.

How to lubricate

Now that you know how to properly lubricate the caliper guide pins, it remains to answer the question of how to do it. As we have already noticed, in addition to lubricant, it is worth stocking up on a repair kit or at least rubber boots, since these parts are often damaged.

Lubrication of the guides itself usually does not cause any difficulties, and this procedure is best performed whenever there is any intervention in the brake system - for example, when replacing pads or discs.

1 / 3

2 / 3

3 / 3

And, of course, the guides need to be lubricated if that same loud sound occurs that started the conversation.

When trying to rock the caliper, the part should not move noticeably or make a metallic knock.

Lubricant must be applied to the fingers, making sure that after assembling the calipers they have not lost mobility. Some mechanics generously and thickly lubricate the “guides” in an attempt to get rid of knocking, but in reality only 2-3 grams of lubricant is enough for one finger.

Some repairmen do not limit themselves to just lubrication and go further, modifying the fingers using available methods. For example, this could be sharpening the fingers followed by applying some kind of polymer coating. However, this method is unlikely to be approved by brake or car manufacturers, and the police do not welcome any interference in the braking system. After all, in reality, no one knows how a handicraft modified finger will behave...

Survey

Have you lubricated the caliper guides lately?

Your voice

Total votes: